1983 FIAT UNO four wheel drive

Auxiliary shaft
Bearing internal diameter (reamed):
No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.664 to 35.684 mm (1.4052 to 1.4059 in)
No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.000 to 32.020 mm (1.2608 to 1.2616 in)
Shaft journal diameter:
No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.593 to 35.618 mm (1.4024 to 1.4033 in)
No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.940 to 31.960 mm (1.2584 to 1.2592 in)
Cylinder block and crankcase
Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast-iron
Bore diameter:
1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.000 to 80.050 mm (3.152 to 3.154 in)
1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.400 to 86.450 mm (3.404 to 3.406 in)
Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)
Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º
Camshaft carrier to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59
Big-end cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 38
Flywheel mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21
Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Flexible mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44
Flexible mounting centre nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Driveshaft/hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200
Tie-rod end balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25
Brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39
Front strut lower clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Driveshaft inboard boot retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 7
1•6 Engine – general
Part 1: General
1 Description
1The Uno may be powered by one of three
engines depending upon the particular model.
903 cc
2This is of four cylinder overhead valve type
with a light alloy cylinder head and a cast-iron
block and crankcase.
3A three bearing crankshaft is used and the
chain-driven camshaft runs in three steel
backed white metal bearings.
4The light alloy pistons are fitted with two
compression and one oil control ring. The
gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small
end of the connecting rod.
5Lubrication is provided by an oil pump
within the sump pan and both the pump and
the distributor are driven from a gear on the
camshaft. Pressurised oil passes through acartridge type oil filter. An oil pressure relief
valve is incorporated in the oil pump. The
engine oil is independent of the transmission
lubricant.
1116 cc and 1301 cc
6These engines are of single overhead
camshaft type, the camshaft being driven by a
toothed belt.
7The difference in engine capacity is
achieved by increasing the cylinder bore on
the 1301 cc engine.
8The cylinder head is of light alloy while the
cylinder block and crankcase are of cast-iron
construction.
9A five bearing crankshaft is used and the
camshaft runs in a similar number of bearings,
but as these are in-line bored directly in the
camshaft carrier, no repair is possible.
10The pistons are of light alloy with two
compression and one oil control ring. The
gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small
end of the connecting rod.
11An auxiliary shaft, driven by the timing belt
is used to drive the distributor, oil pump and
fuel pump.12The oil pump is located within the sump
pan and incorporates a pressure relief valve.
13Pressurised oil passes through a cartridge
type oil filter.
14The crankshaft main bearings are
supplied under pressure from drillings in the
crankcase from the main oil gallery whilst the
connecting rod big-end bearings are
lubricated from the main bearings by oil
forced through the crankshaft oilways. The
camshaft bearings are fed from a drilling from
the main oil gallery. The cams and tappets are
lubricated by oil mist from outlets in the
camshaft bearings.
15The cylinder walls, pistons and gudgeon
pins are lubricated by oil splashed up by the
crankshaft webs. An oil pressure warning light
is fitted to indicate when the pressure is too
low.
All engines
16The engine is mounted transversely with
the transmission at the front of the car.
17The engine oil is independent of the
transmission lubricant.

clearance and end gap. Both clearances
should be checked with a feeler gauge. Check
the end gap when the ring has been pushed
squarely down the cylinder bore for two or
three inches (photos).
25If new rings are being used and the
cylinder bores have not been rebored, always
make sure that the top compression ring has
been stepped to prevent it contacting the
bore wear ridge.
Flywheel
26Check the clutch mating surface of the
flywheel. If it is deeply scored (due to failure to
renew a worn driven plate) then it may be
possible to have it surface ground provided
the thickness of the flywheel is not reduced
too much.
27If lots of tiny cracks are visible on the
surface of the flywheel then this will be due to
overheating caused by slipping the clutch or
“riding” the clutch pedal.
28With a pre-engaged type of starter motor
it is rare to find the teeth of the flywheel ring
gear damaged or worn but if they are, then the
ring gear will have to be renewed.
29To remove the ring gear, drill a hole
between the roots of two teeth taking care not
to damage the flywheel and then split the ring
with a sharp cold chisel.
30The new ring gear must be heated to
between 180 and 220ºC (356 and 428ºF)
which is very hot, so if you do not have
facilities for obtaining these temperatures,
leave the job to your dealer or engine
reconditioner.
31Where such facilities are available, then
the ring gear should be either pressed or
lightly tapped gently onto its register and left
to cool naturally, when the contraction of the
metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure
and permanent fit. Great care must be taken
not to overheat the ring gear, as if this
happens its temper will be lost. A clutch input
shaft pilot bearing is not fitted on this engine.
Camshaft
32Examine the camshaft bearings for wear,
scoring or pitting. If evident then the bearings
will have to be renewed. The three bearingsare of different sizes and they can be removed
and new ones fitted using a bolt, nut and
distance pieces. When drawing a new bearing
into position, make sure that the oil hole is
correctly aligned with the one in the
crankcase. The centre and rear bearings
require reaming after fitting, the bearing at the
timing chain end is supplied ready reamed
(photo).
33The camshaft itself should show no marks
or scoring on the journal or cam lobe
surfaces. Where evident, renew the camshaft
or have it reprofiled by a specialist
reconditioner.
34Check the teeth of the camshaft sprocket
for wear. Renew the sprocket if necessary.
Cam followers
35Examine the bearing surface of the cam
followers which are in contact with the
camshaft. Any indentations or cracks must be
rectified by renewal. Clean sludge and dirt
from the cam followers and check their fit in
their bores. Side to side rock is unusual
except at very high mileage.
Timing chain
36Examine the teeth on both the crankshaft
sprocket and the camshaft sprocket for wear.
Each tooth forms an inverted “V” with the
sprocket periphery and if worn, the side of
each tooth under tension will be slightly
concave in shape when compared with the
other side of the tooth, ie; one side of the
inverted “V” will be concave when compared
with the other. If any sign of wear is present
the sprockets must be renewed.
37Examine the links of the chain for side
slackness and particularly check the
self-tensioning links for freedom of
movement. Renew the chain if any slackness
is noticeable when compared with a new
chain. It is a sensible precaution to renew the
chain at about 60 000 miles (96 000 km) and
at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped
down for a major overhaul.
Cylinder head
38This is covered in Section 17.
Rockers and rocker shaft
39Thoroughly clean out the rocker shaft. As
it acts as the oil passages for the valve gear,
clean out the oil holes and make sure they are
quite clear. Check the shaft for straightness
by rolling it on a flat surface. If it is distorted,
renew it.
40The surface of the shaft should be free
from any wear ridges caused by the rocker
arms. If it is not, the shaft will have to be
renewed. Blocked shaft oil holes often
contribute to such wear.
41Check the rocker arms for wear of the
rocker bushes, for wear at the rocker arm face
which bears on the valve stem, and for wear
of the adjusting ball ended screws. Wear in
the rocker arm bush can be checked by
gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the
rocker arm in place on the shaft, noting if
there is any lateral rocker arm shake. If any
shake is present, and the arm is very loose on
the shaft, remedial action must be taken. It is
recommended that a worn rocker arm be
taken to your local FIAT agent or automobile
engineering works to have the old bush drawn
out and a new bush fitted (photo).
42Check the tip of the rocker arm where it
bears on the valve head, for cracking or
serious wear on the case hardening. If none is
present the rocker arm may be refitted. Check
the pushrods for straightness by rolling them
on a flat surface.
Oil pump
43Unscrew the four securing bolts which
connect the two halves of the pump body.
44Clean all the components in a bath of
paraffin and dry them.
45Inspect the gears for wear or damage and
then check for wear in the following way.
46Insert a feeler blade between the tooth
peak and the body. This should be between
0.05 and 0.14 mm (0.0019 and 0.0055 in).
47Now place a straight-edge across the
body flange and check for gear endfloat. This
should be between 0.020 and 0.105 mm
(0.0008 and 0.0041 in). Where the clearances
exceed the specified limits, renew the pump.
48Check that the oil pressure relief valve
spring is in good condition and not deformed.
903 cc engine 1•19
18.41 Rocker components18.32 Camshaft bearing18.24B Checking piston ring end gap
1

from the suspension struts and then remove
the bolts which secure the hub carriers to the
U-clamps at the base of the suspension
struts.
23Pull the tops of the hub carriers down and
then outwards and push the driveshafts from
them.
24Unbolt the driveshaft inboard boot
retainers and then remove the driveshafts
from the transmission.
25Support the engine on a hoist or use a
trolley jack under the engine/transmission.
Remove the bottom mounting and then the
upper left and right-hand ones.
26Lower the power unit to the floor by
pushing it to the left-hand side to clear the
right-hand mounting bracket and then swivel
the gearbox towards the rear of the car.
Withdraw the engine/transmission from under
the car.
27External dirt and grease should now be
removed using paraffin and a stiff brush or a
water-soluble solvent.
28Unbolt and remove the engine mounting
brackets and the starter motor.
29Unbolt and remove the cover plate with
the gearchange ball stud strut from the lower
front face of the flywheel housing.
30With the engine resting squarely on its
sump pan, unscrew the flywheel housing
connecting bolts, noting the location of any
lifting lugs and hose and wiring clips.
31Support the weight of the transmission
and withdraw it in a straight line from the
engine.
36 Engine- dismantling (general)
Refer to Section 14, Part 2.
37 Engine ancillary components
- removal
Refer to Section 15, Part 2 and also remove
the intake manifold.
38 Engine-
complete dismantling
3
1Have the engine resting squarely and
supported securely on the work surface.
2Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
3Grip the now exposed timing belt with the
hands and loosen the camshaft sprocket.
4Release the timing belt tensioner pulley
centre bolt, then slip the belt from the pulley
and sprockets to remove it. Note which way
round the belt is fitted, usually so that the
lettering on the belt can be read from the
crankshaft pulley end of the engine.
5Remove the camshaft sprocket.6Unbolt and remove the camshaft timing belt
cover backing plate.
7Unbolt and remove the camshaft carrier
cover.
8Unbolt the camshaft carrier and lift it off
very slowly, at the same time pushing the cam
followers and their shims down with the
fingers securely onto their respective valve
springs. It is easy to remove the camshaft
carrier too quickly with some of the cam
followers stuck in it and as the carrier is lifted
away, the cam followers will fall out. If this
happens, the valve clearances will be upset as
the cam followers and shims cannot be
returned, with any certainty, to their original
positions. Keep the cam followers and shims
in their originally fitted order.
9Unscrew and remove the cylinder head
bolts and nuts, grip the manifold, rock the
head and remove the complete cylinder
head/manifold/carburettor assembly. Remove
and discard the cylinder head gasket.
10Unbolt the coolant pump from the side of
the cylinder block and remove it complete
with coolant distribution pipe. Remove the
crankcase breather.
11Remove the distributor/oil pump
driveshaft. This is simply carried out by
inserting a finger into the hole vacated by the
distributor and wedging it in the hole in the
end of the driveshaft. Lift the shaft out of
mesh with the auxiliary shaft. Where the
distributor is driven by the camshaft, a cover
plate retains the oil pump driveshaft in
position.
12Unbolt and remove the sprocket from the
end of the auxiliary shaft. The sprocket is held
to the shaft with a Woodruff key.
13Unbolt the auxiliary shaft retainer and
withdraw the shaft from the crankcase.
14Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
pulley nut. This is very tight and the flywheel
starter ring gear will have to be jammed with a
cold chisel or a suitably bent piece of steel to
prevent the crankshaft rotating.
15Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket, which
is located by the Woodruff key.
16Unbolt the front engine mounting bracket
from the cylinder block, together with the
timing belt cover screw anchor bush. Unbolt
and remove the timing belt tensioner pulley.
17Unscrew the flywheel securing bolts. Thestarter ring gear will again have to be jammed
to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the bolts
are unscrewed. Mark the flywheel position in
relation to the crankshaft mounting flange,
then remove it.
18Unbolt the front and rear crankshaft oil
seal retainer bolts from the crankcase and the
sump. Remove the oil seal retainers.
19Turn the engine on its side, extract the
remaining sump bolts and remove the sump.
If it is stuck, try tapping it gently with a
soft-faced hammer. If this fails, cut all round
the sump-to-gasket flange with a sharp knife.
Do not try prising with a large screwdriver; this
will only distort the sump mating flange.
20With the sump removed, unbolt and
remove the oil pump.
21Grip the oil pick-up pipe and twist or rock
it from its hole in the crankcase. It is an
interference fit in the hole.
22Remove the piston/connecting rods as
described in Section 32.
23Before unbolting the main bearing caps,
note that they are marked with one, two, three
or four notches. No. 5 main bearing cap is
unmarked. Note that the notches are nearer
the auxiliary shaft side.
24Unbolt and remove the main bearing
caps. If the bearing shells are to be used
again, tape them to their respective caps. The
bearing shell at the centre position is plain,
the others have a lubricating groove.
25Carefully, lift the crankshaft from the
crankcase, noting the thrust washers at No. 5
main bearing. These control the crankshaft
endfloat.
39 Cylinder head- dismantling
and decarbonising
4
1The operations are similar to those
described for the ohv engine in Section 17 in
respect of decarbonising and valve grinding.
2To remove a valve, use a valve spring
compressor to compress the first valve and
then extract the split collets (photo).
3Release the valve spring compressor.
4Withdraw the valve spring cap and the
double valve springs (photos).
5Remove the valve (photo).
1•28 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
39.4A Valve spring cap39.2 Valve spring compressor and split
collets

Note: Before diagnosing steering faults, be
sure that trouble is not due to incorrect or
uneven tyre pressures, inappropriate tyre
combinations, or braking system or
suspension defects.
Car pulls to one side
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Vibration at steering wheel
m
mRoadwheels out of balance or loose
m mTyre damage
m mLoose driveshaft-to-hub nuts
Car wanders
m
mPlay in steering gear
m mWear in steering balljoints
Heavy or stiff steering
m
mLack of lubricant in steering gear or balljoints
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Play at steering wheel
m
mWear in steering rack or balljoints
m mLoose steering shaft coupling pinch-bolt or
worn splines
m mWorn steering column/shaft universal joints
Rattles from steering
m
mSteering damper defective or in need of
adjustment
m mLoose steering column mounting bolts
m mLoose steering column/shaft coupling
pinch-bolts
m mLoose steering rack housing mounting bolts
m mWorn steering shaft bushes
Excessive or uneven tyre wear
m
mIncorrect steering geometry
m mWorn steering components
m mCollision damage wear. Before considering the steering angles,
check that the tyres are correctly inflated, that
the front wheels are not buckled, the hub
bearings are not worn or incorrectly adjusted
and that the steering linkage is in good order,
without slackness or wear at the joints.
2Wheel alignment consists of four factors:
Camber, is the angle at which the road
wheels are set from the vertical when viewed
from the front or rear of the vehicle. Positive
camber is the angle (in degrees) that the wheels
are tilted outwards at the top from the vertical.
Castor, is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
side of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicated
when the steering axis is inclined towards the
rear of the vehicle at its upper end.
Steering axis inclination, is the angle when
viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle
between vertical and an imaginary line drawn
between the upper and lower suspension
strut mountings.
Toe,is the amount by which the distance
between the front inside edges of the
roadwheel rims differs from that between the
rear inside edges.
3If the distance between the front edges is
less than that at the rear, the wheels are said
to toe-in. If the distance between the front
inside edges is greater than that at the rear,
the wheels toe-out.
4Camber and castor are set during
production of the car and are not adjustable.
Any deviation from specification will be due tocollision damage or to gross wear in the
components concerned.
5To check the front wheel alignment, first
make sure that the lengths of both tie-rods are
equal when the steering is in the straight-ahead
position. Measure between the locknut at the
balljoint and the ball cup at the end of the rack
housing by passing a thin rod under the rack of
the gaiter. If adjustment is required, release the
locknut and turn the tie-rod.
6Obtain a tracking gauge. These are
available in various forms from accessory
stores or one can be fabricated from a length
of steel tubing suitably cranked to clear the
sump and bellhousing and having a setscrew
and locknut at one end.
7With the gauge, measure the distance
between the two wheel inner rims (at hub
height) at the rear of the wheel. Push the
vehicle forward to rotate the wheel through
180º (half a turn) and measure the distance
between the wheel inner rims, again at hub
height, at the front of the wheel. This last
measurement should differ from (be less than)
the first by the appropriate toe-in according to
the Specification (see Specifications Section).
8Where the toe-in is found to be incorrect,
release the tie-rod balljoint locknuts and turn
the tie-rods equally. Only turn them a quarter
of a turn at a time before re-checking the
alignment. Viewed from the centre line of the
car, turning the tie-rod clockwise will
decrease the toe-in.
9Make sure that the gaiter outboard clip isreleased otherwise the gaiter will twist as the
tie-rod is rotated.
10Always turn both rods in the same
direction when viewed from the centre line of
the vehicle otherwise the rods will become
unequal in length. This would cause the
steering wheel spoke position to alter and
cause problems on turns with tyre scrubbing.
11On completion, tighten the tie-rod balljoint
locknuts without altering their setting. Check
that the balljoint is at the centre of its arc of
travel and then retighten the gaiter clip.
9 Steering column lock-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the steering wheel and column
shrouds as described in Section 5, also the
steering column combination switch.
2Unscrew and remove the steering column
mounting bolts and lower the column to
expose the lock shear bolts.
3Drill out the bolts or extract them using an
extractor.
4Refer to Chapter 4 for details of separation
of the ignition switch from the lock section.
5When fitting the new lock, tighten the shear
bolts until their heads break off.
6Bolt up the column, fit the combination
switch, shrouds and steering wheel and
tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
10•4 Steering
Fig. 10.9 Steering column lock shear bolts
(arrowed) (Sec 9)
Fig. 10.8 Front wheel alignment diagram
(Sec 8)
X Front dimension Y - X = Toe-in
Y Rear dimension
Fig. 10.7 Castor angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Castor angle (positive)
Fault finding - steering

Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Driveshaft flange connecting bolts (Turbo ie) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 32
Final drive output shaft bearing cover bolts (Turbo ie) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Intermediate shaft support to crankcase (Turbo ie) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35
Braking system (903, 999, 1108, 1116 and 1372 cc)
General
Note:The following items differ, or are additional to those specified in Chapter 8:
Master cylinder bore diameter:
903 cc, 999 cc, 1108 cc and 1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.05 mm
1372 cc ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.65 mm
Vacuum servo diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152.4 mm
Hydraulic push rod-to-master cylinder support plate clearance . . . . . . 0.825 to 1.025 mm
Braking system (1301 and 1372 cc Turbo ie)
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-wheel discs, ventilated front, solid rear. Vacuum servo. Pressure
regulating valve on rear brakes
Master cylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.225 mm
Vacuum servo diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177.8 mm
Front disc brakes
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240.0 mm
Disc thickness - new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.9 to 20.1 mm
Disc thickness - minimum (refinishing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.6 mm
Disc thickness - minimum (wear limit) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.2 mm
Minimum thickness of pad friction material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Caliper cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.0 mm
Rear disc brakes
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227.0 mm
Disc thickness - new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.7 to 10.9 mm
Disc thickness minimum (refinishing):
1301 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7 mm
1372 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.35 mm
Disc thickness - minimum (wear limit) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm
Minimum thickness of pad friction material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Caliper cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.0 mm
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front caliper cylinder housing mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 38
Front caliper support bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 38
Front disc fixing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Rear caliper support bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Rear caliper cylinder housing mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 38
Electrical system
Battery
Turbo ie engine models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Ah
Fuses (903, 999, 1116, 1299/1301 and 1301 cc Turbo ie)
Fuse No. Rating Circuit
1 7.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH tail, RH front parking, rear number plate, check panel
2 7.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH tail, LH front parking, cigar lighting, clock light, heater control
illumination, map reading lamp.
3 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH headlamp main beam
4 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH headlamp main beam and warning light
5 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator cooling fan, econometer and horns
6 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter, courtesy lamps, digital clock, stop-lamp switch, clock
and radio
7 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH headlamp dipped beam
8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH headlamp dipped beam, rear fog warning lamp and indicator
9 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear screen and warning lamp
10 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Instrument panel, stop-lamps, direction indicators, reversing lamps
and warning module
11 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater fan, fan control illumination and digital clock
12 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper, washer pump and rear screen wiper
13 - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spare
14 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hazard warning lamps and indicator
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•15
13

can be lowered to rest on the exhaust and
bodymember.
34Continue to raise the engine and the
transmission until it can be removed from the
engine compartment and placed on the work
surface (photo).
35Clean the exterior of the engine and
transmission by steam cleaning or using a
water soluble solvent.
36Unbolt and remove the starter motor.
37Unscrew the flywheel housing-to-engine
flange bolts. Note the location of the engine
lifting lug.
38Unbolt and remove the lower cover plate
from the flywheel housing.
39Pull the transmission from the engine. It is
located by two hollow dowels and one stud
(photo).
Dismantling - general
40Refer to Chapter 1, Section 14.
Complete dismantling#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
41Unbolt and remove the camshaft cover.
42Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
43Remove the distributor (Section 10).
44Remove the hot air collector and the
exhaust manifold.
45Release, disconnect and remove the
coolant distribution pipe from the rear of the
coolant pump.46Unscrew and discard the oil filter
cartridge.
47Unbolt the thermostat housing, discard
the joint gasket.
48Remove the fuel pump, together with its
insulator block and actuating pushrod, if
applicable.
49Remove the carburettor, or throttle body,
as appropriate.
50Remove the inlet manifold and discard the
joint gasket.
51Remove the alternator and its drivebelt
and withdraw the engine oil dipstick.
52Unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
53Unbolt and remove the timing belt
tensioner.
54Remove the timing belt.
55Unbolt and remove the coolant pump.
56Remove the cylinder head.
57Remove and discard the cylinder head
gasket.
58Remove the clutch.
59Lock the flywheel starter ring gear teeth
and remove the crankshaft sprocket bolt and
sprocket.
60Unbolt and remove the sump pan,
then the exhaust pipe support bracket
(photos).
61Prevent rotation of the crankshaft by
locking the starter ring gear teeth and then
unbolt and remove the flywheel. The flywheel
can only be fitted in one position as it is
located on a dowel.
62Remove the engine rear plate. Note thesmall socket-headed screw which holds the
timing index plate (photo).
63Unbolt and remove the oil pump pick-up
assembly, followed by the oil pump itself.
64Turn the engine on its side and remove
the piston/connecting rod assemblies.
65Stand the engine on its cylinder block
machined face, and then unbolt and remove
the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer. Discard
the gasket.
66Note the markings on the main bearing
caps. One line on the cap nearest the timing
belt, then two, C for centre cap, then three
and four (photo).
67The caps will only fit one way round.
68Unbolt the main bearing caps, removing
them with the shell bearings.
69Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the bearing half shells from the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•29
5C.39 Separating the engine and
transmission5C.34 Lifting out the engine and
transmission5C.32 Right-hand engine mounting
brackets on body and engine
5C.66 Main bearing cap markings
5C.60A Removing the sump pan
5C.62 Unscrewing socket-head screw
from timing index plate5C.60B Exhaust pipe support bracket
attached to crankcase
13

Initial start-up after major
overhaul
28Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45, but note
that an oil pressure gauge is fitted to indicate
oil pressure.
29Check the ignition static timing as
described in Section 10.
30Check the engine idle speed and CO level
as described in Section 9.
7 Engine-
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc
Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1The 1372 cc engine is similar in design to
the OHC engine fitted to the FIAT Tipo
variants. The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line,
overhead camshaft type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle.
2The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to the rear (flywheel
end) main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
3The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally split shell-type
big-end bearings. The pistons are attached to
the connecting rods by fully-floating gudgeon
pins which are secured by circlips. The
aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three
piston rings: two compression rings and an oil
control ring.
4The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the valves via bucket and shim
type cam followers. The camshaft is located in
a separate housing on top of the cylinder
head.
5The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by double valve springs, and operate
in guides pressed into the cylinder head.
6The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the oil pump.
7Lubrication is by means of a gear type
pump which draws oil through a strainer
located in the sump, and forces it through a
full-flow filter into the engine oil galleries fromwhere it is distributed to the crankshaft,
camshaft and auxiliary shaft. The big-end
bearings are supplied with oil via internal
drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of
the pistons are cooled by oil spray nozzles
located in each main bearing location in the
crankcase.
8A crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn via an oil separator into the air cleaner,
from where they are drawn into the inlet
manifold and re-burnt with fresh air/fuel
mixture.
9The 1372 cc ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
Mono-Jetronic single point fuel injection (SPi)
system. Whilst the higher performance
1372 cc Turbo ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
L3.1 (L3.2 from 1992) Jetronic multi-point
injection (MPi) system and turbocharger with
intercooler and oil cooling. The L3.2 system
models are fitted with catalytic converters.
Maintenanceª
10At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this Manual, carry out the following tasks.
11Check the engine oil level as follows. With
the vehicle parked on level ground, and with
the engine having been stopped for a few
minutes, withdraw the oil level dipstick, wipe it
on a clean rag, and re-insert it fully. Withdraw
the dipstick again and read off the oil level
relative to the MAX and MIN marks. The oil
level should be between the marks. If the level
is at or below the MIN mark, top up through
the filler on the camshaft cover without delay
(photo). The quantity of oil required to raise
the level from MIN to MAX on the dipstick is
approximately 1.0 litre (1.8 pints). Do not
overfill.
12Renew the engine oil and filter as
described in Section 2 of Chapter 1 (photos).
13Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances as described in Part B of this
Section.
14Inspect the engine for signs of oil, coolant
or fuel leaks and rectify as necessary.
15Inspect the crankcase ventilation hose for
blockage or damage. Clean or renew as
necessary.
16Check the condition and tension of thetiming belt as described in Part B of this
Section.
17Renew the timing belt as described in
Part B of this Section.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment#
1It is important to ensure that the valve
clearances are set correctly, as incorrect
clearances will result in incorrect valve timing
thus affecting engine performance.
2The clearances must be checked and
adjusted with the engine cold.
3On the ie engine, refer to Section 9 in this
Chapter for details and remove the air cleaner
unit.
4On the ie engine disconnect the crankcase
ventilation hose from the injector unit and
position the hose out of the way.
5On Turbo ie engines, loosen off the clips
and remove the air hose to the inlet manifold
(above the camshaft cover).
6On Turbo ie engines, disconnect the
accelerator cable from the throttle housing
and the support bracket on the camshaft
cover.
7Unscrew the securing nuts and washers
and remove the camshaft cover, noting that
on later models two of the nuts also secure
the hose clip assembly. Recover the gasket.
8Numbering from the front (timing belt) end
of the engine, the exhaust valves are 1, 4, 5
and 8, and the inlet valves are 2, 3, 6 and 7.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•37
7A.12B Engine oil filter removal using a
strap wrench - 1372 cc engine7A.12A Engine sump drain plug - 1372 cc
engine7A.11 Topping up the engine oil level -
1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.15 Engine oil level dipstick location
and level markings on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7A)
13

35Clean the mating faces of the thermostat
cover and cylinder head, and use a new
gasket when refitting the cover.
36Refill the cooling system as described
earlier in this Section.
Coolant pump -
removal and refittingÁ
Note: A new coolant pump gasket must be
used on refitting. If the pump is found to be
worn it must be renewed as a complete unit as
dismantling and repair is not possible.
37Disconnect the battery negative lead.
38Drain the cooling system as described
earlier in this Section.
39Remove the coolant/alternator drivebelt
as described in the next sub-Section.
40Unscrew the four coolant pump securing
bolts, noting that two of the bolts also secure
the alternator adjuster bracket, and withdraw
the pump from the housing (photo). Recover
the gasket.
41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Use a new gasket between the pump and
the housing.
43Refit and tension the coolant
pump/alternator drivebelt as described in the
next sub-Section.
44On completion, refill the cooling system
as described earlier in this Section.
Coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt - checking,
renewal and tensioning
Á
45At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this manual (as applicable), the drivebelt
should be checked and if necessary
re-tensioned.
46Access to the drivebelt is made from the
underside of the car on the right-hand side.
Loosen off the front right-hand roadwheel
retaining bolts, then raise and support the car
on axle stands at the front. Remove the front
roadwheel on the right-hand side.
47Remove the underwing shield from the
right-hand wheel arch by drifting the
compression pins out from the retaining
clips. Prise free the clips and remove the
shield.
48Additional, though somewhat restricted,
access can be obtained from above by
removing the air cleaner unit on the non-Turbo
ie-engine (photo).
49Check the full length of the drivebelt for
cracks and deterioration. It will be necessary
to turn the engine in order to check the
portions of the drivebelt in contact with the
pulleys. If a drivebelt is unserviceable, renew it
as follows (photo).
50Loosen the alternator mounting and
adjuster nuts and bolts and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.51Slip the drivebelt from the alternator,
coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys.
52Fit the new drivebelt around the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the specified belt tension
is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
prevent damage. It is helpful to partially
tighten the adjuster nut before tensioning the
drivebelt (photo).
53When the specified tension has been
achieved, tighten the mounting and adjuster
nuts and bolts (photo).
PART D: HEATER UNIT- LATER
MODELS
Heater unit -
removal and refitting
Á
1The heater unit is removed complete with
the facia/control panel. Commence by
draining the cooling system as described
previously in this Section.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Refer to Section 15 of this Chapter for
details and remove the ashtray/cigar lighter
and the auxiliary control panel.
4Undo the upper screw retaining the heater
unit to the facia (see Fig. 13.31).
5Remove the radio from the central facia.
6Undo the retaining screw on each side at
the front of the gear lever console. Prise free
13•58 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.31 Removing the heater unit-to-
facia upper retaining screw (Sec 8D)8C.53 Tightening the alternator adjuster
nut8C.52 Fitting a new coolant
pump/alternator drivebelt around the
pulleys
8C.49 Alternator/water pump drivebelt and
tensioner viewed from the right-hand
wheel arch8C.48 Top side view of water pump,
alternator and drivebelt8C.40 Coolant pump/alternator bracket
bolt removal