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Fig. 5: Weatherproof connectors ar e most commonly used in the engine
compartment or where the connecto r is exposed to the elements
TEST EQUIPMENT
Pinpointing the exact cause of trouble in an electrical circuit is most times
accomplished by the use of special te st equipment. The following describes
different types of commonly used test eq uipment and briefly explains how to
use them in diagnosis. In addition to t he information covered below, the tool
manufacturer's instructions booklet (pro vided with the tester) should be read
and clearly understood before atte mpting any test procedures.
JUMPER WIRES
CAUTION - Never use jumper wires made from a thinner gauge wire than the
circuit being tested. If the jumper wire is of too small a gauge, it may overheat
and possibly melt. Never use jumpers to bypass high resistance loads in a
circuit. Bypassing resistances, in effect, cr eates a short circuit. This may, in
turn, cause damage and fire. Jumper wi res should only be used to bypass
lengths of wire or to simulate switches.
Jumper wires are simple, yet extremel y valuable, pieces of test equipment.
They are basically test wir es which are used to bypass sections of a circuit.
Although jumper wires can be purchased, they are usually fabricated from
lengths of standard automot ive wire and whatever type of connector (alligator
clip, spade connector or pin connector) that is required for the particular
application being tested. In cramped, hard- to-reach areas, it is advisable to
have insulated boots over the jumper wire terminals in order to prevent
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1. Isolate the circuit from
the vehicle's power source.
2. Ensure that the ignition key is OFF when disconnecting any components
or the battery.
3. Where necessary, also isolate at least one side of the circuit to be
checked, in order to avoid reading parallel resistances. Parallel circuit
resistances will always give a lower reading than the actual resistance of
either of the branches.
4. Connect the meter leads to both sides of the circuit (wire or component)
and read the actual measured ohms on the meter scale. Make sure the
selector switch is set to the proper ohm scale for the circuit being tested,
to avoid misreading the oh mmeter test value.
WIRE AND CONNECTOR REPAIR
Almost anyone can replace damaged wires, as long as the proper tools and
parts are available. Wire and terminals ar e available to fit almost any need.
Even the specialized weatherproof, mol ded and hard shell connectors are now
available from aftermarket suppliers.
Be sure the ends of all the wires are fitted with t he proper terminal hardware
and connectors. Wrapping a wire around a stud is never a permanent solution
and will only cause trouble later. Repl ace wires one at a time to avoid
confusion. Always route wires exac tly the same as the factory.
If connector repair is necessary, only atte mpt it if you have the proper tools.
Weatherproof and hard shell con nectors require special tools to release the pins
inside the connector. Attempting to r epair these connectors with conventional
hand tools will damage them.
BATTERY CABLES
DISCONNECTING THE CABLES
When working on any electrical component on the vehicle, it is always a good
idea to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. This will prevent potential
damage to many sensitive electrical co mponents such as the Engine Control
Module (ECM), radio, alternator, etc.
Any time you disengage the battery cables, it is recommended that you
disconnect the negative (&mdash) battery cable first. This will prevent your
accidentally grounding the positive (+) term inal to the body of the vehicle when
disconnecting it, thereby prevent ing damage to the above mentioned
components.
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position.
This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity
trying to ground itself to the body of a vehi cle, just like a spark plug jumping the
gap) and, of course, damaging some com ponents such as the alternator diodes.
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ARMING THE SYSTEM
1. Turn the ignition key to the LO CK position and remove the key.
2. On vehicles with a passenger side ai r bag, reconnect the yellow two-way
connector assembly located near the yellow 24-way DERM harness
connector. Install the glov e box door assembly.
3. Connect the yellow two-way connector assembly at the base of the
steering column.
Always be sure to reinstall the Connec tor Position Assurance (CPA) device.
4. Install the left side trim panel and rein stall the fuse in the fuse block.
5. Turn the ignition key to the RUN posit ion and verify that the warning lamp
flashes seven to nine times and then turn s OFF. If it does not operate as
described, have the system repair ed by a qualified technician.
HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING
BLOWER MOTOR
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If necessary, remove the diagonal
fender brace at the right rear corner of the engine compartment to gain
access to the blower motor.
2. Disconnect the electrical wiring fr om the blower motor. If equipped with
air conditioning, remove the blower relay and bracket as an assembly
and swing them aside.
3. Remove the blower motor cooling tube.
4. Remove the blower mo tor retaining screws.
5. Remove the blower motor and fan as an assembly from the case.
To install: 6. Position the blower motor into pl ace and install the retaining screws.
7. Install the blower motor cooling tube.
8. Connect all the electrical connections.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
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HOT WATER VALVE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Not all model years and engine applic
ations use hot water valves.
1. Drain the coolant.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the hot water valve by sliding the tab of
the connector past the L-shaped bend in the ac tuator vacuum tube.
Then, slide the hose connector off the tube while continuing to hold the
tab back against the connector end.
3. Disconnect the heater hos es from the valve.
To install: 4. Install the valve with the vacuum actuator faci ng up. The heater hoses
will hold the valve in position.
5. Install the vacuum hose to the actuator.
6. Refill the cooling system. R un the engine long enough to purge any
trapped air, then add more coolant if necessary.
7. Check for leaks.
Fig. 1: Hot water valve loca tion on carbureted V8 engines
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Fig. 2: Hot water valve location on fuel injected engines
AIR CONDITIONING COMPONENTS
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Repair or service of air conditioni ng components is not covered by this
information, because of the risk of personal injury or death, and because of the
legal ramifications of servicing these components without the proper EPA
certification and experience. Cost, perso nal injury or death, environmental
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4. Connect the large diamet
er brake release vacuum line to the servo unit.
Connect the vacuum hose from the va cuum control valve to the servo
unit.
5. Connect the actuating chain, rod or cable to the servo.
6. Install the servo unit to the bracket; tighten the screws to 12 inch lbs. (1.4
Nm).
7. Install the electrical connector to the servo.
8. Adjust the cable, rod or chain.
Fig. 1: Servo mounting on 1982-1984 2.5L engines
Fig. 2: Servo mounting on 1982-1984 carbureted V6 and V8 engines
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Fig. 3: Servo mounting on Cr ossfire Injection engines
Fig. 4: Servo mounting on 1985-1986 2.5L engines
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Fig. 5: Servo mounting on fuel injected 2.8L engines
Fig. 6: Servo mounting on carbur eted V6 and V8 engines after 1984