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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 203
LIGHTING
HEADLIGHTS
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Remove headlamp bezel retain ing screws and remove bezel.
2. Disengage spring from the retaini ng ring with a cotter pin removal tool
and remove two attaching screws.
3. Remove retaining ring, disconnect sealed beam unit at wiring connector
and remove the unit.
Fig. 1: Headlight removal - the lowe r bezel mounting screws only need to be
loosened, not removed
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 206
Headlight adjustment may
be temporarily made using a wall, as described
below, or on the rear of another vehicle. When adjust ed, the lights should not
glare in oncoming car or truck windshi elds, nor should they illuminate the
passenger compartment of vehi cles driving in front of you. These adjustments
are rough and should always be fine-t uned by a repair shop which is equipped
with headlight aiming t ools. Improper adjustments may be both dangerous and
illegal.
For most of the vehicles covered by th is information, horizontal and vertical
aiming of each sealed beam unit is provided by two adjusting screws which
move the retaining ring and adjusting plat e against the tension of a coil spring.
There is no adjustment for focus; this is done during headlight manufacturing.
Because the composite headlight asse mbly is bolted into position, no
adjustment should be necessary or possibl e. Some applications, however, may
be bolted to an adjuster plate or may be retained by adjusting screws. If so,
follow this procedure when adjusti ng the lights, BUT always have the
adjustment checked by a reputable shop.
Before removing the headlight bulb or di sturbing the headlamp in any way, note
the current settings in order to ease headlight adjustment upon reassembly. If
the high or low beam setting of the old la mp still works, this can be done using
the wall of a garage or a building:
1. Park the vehicle on a level su rface, with the fuel tank about
1/2 full and
with the vehicle empty of all extra cargo (unless normally carried). The
vehicle should be facing a wall whic h is no less than 6 feet (1.8m) high
and 12 feet (3.7m) wide. The front of the vehicle should be about 25 feet
from the wall.
Fig. 5: Location of the aiming screw s on most vehicles with sealed beam
headlights
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Fig. 6: Dual headlight adjustment screw locations - one side shown here (other
side should be mirror image)
2. If aiming is to be performed outdoors, it is advisable to wait until dusk in
order to properly see t he headlight beams on the wall. If done in a
garage, darken the area around the wall as much as possible by closing
shades or hanging cloth over the windows.
3. Turn the headlights ON and mark the wall at the center of each light's low
beam, then switch on the bright lights and mark the center of each light's
high beam. A short length of masking tape which is visible from the front
of the vehicle may be used. Althoug h marking all four positions is
advisable, marking one position from each light should be sufficient.
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Fig. 7: Low-beam headlight pattern alignment
Fig. 8: High-beam headlight pattern alignment
4. If neither beam on one side is working, and if another like-sized vehicle is
available, park the sec ond one in the exact spot where the vehicle was
and mark the beams using the same-si de light. Then switch the vehicles
so the one to be aimed is back in the or iginal spot. It must be parked no
closer to or farther away from the wall than the second vehicle.
5. Perform any necessary repairs, but ma ke sure the vehicle is not moved,
or is returned to the exact spot from which the lights were marked. Turn
the headlights ON and adjust the beams to matc h the marks on the wall.
6. Have the headlight adjustment c hecked as soon as possible by a
reputable repair shop.
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A more advanced set of tools, suit
able for tune-up work, can be drawn up
easily. While the tools are slightly more sophisticated, they need not be
outrageously expensive. There are severa l inexpensive tach/dwell meters on
the market that are every bit as good for the average mechanic as a
professional model. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500 rpm on the
tach scale and that it works on 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines. The key to these
purchases is to make them with an eye towards adaptability and wide range. A
basic list of tune-up tools could include:
• Tach/dwell meter.
• Spark plug wrench and gapping tool.
• Feeler gauges for valve adjustment.
• Timing light.
The choice of a timing light should be made carefully. A light which works on the
DC current supplied by the vehicle's battery is the best choice; it should have a
xenon tube for brightness. On any vehi cle with an electronic ignition system, a
timing light with an inductive pickup that clamps around the No. 1 spark plug
cable is preferred.
In addition to these basic tools, ther e are several other tools and gauges you
may find useful. These include:
• Compression gauge. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates
the possibility of a faulty r eading due to escaping pressure.
• Manifold vacuum gauge.
• 12V test light.
• A combination volt/ohmmeter
• Induction Ammeter. This is used for determining whether or not there is
current in a wire. These are handy fo r use if a wire is broken somewhere
in a wiring harness.
As a final note, you will probably find a torque wrench necessary for all but the
most basic work. The beam type models are perfectly adequate, although the
newer click types (breakaway) are eas ier to use. The click type torque
wrenches tend to be more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of torque
wrenches should be periodically checked a nd/or recalibrated. You will have to
decide for yourself which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.
SPECIAL TOOLS
Normally, the use of special factory tool s is avoided for repair procedures, since
these are not readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic. When it is
possible to perform the job with more co mmonly available tools, it will be
pointed out, but occasionally, a special t ool was designed to perform a specific
function and should be used. Before s ubstituting another tool, you should be
convinced that neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle will be
compromised.