1969 FORD MUSTANG seat adjustment

03-02-19

Suspension

03-02-19

6. Raise the upper arm to free the

ball joint stud from the spindle. Wire

the upper end of the spindle to the un-

derbody to prevent damage to the

brake hose.

7.
Mark the position of the upper

arm shaft on the underbody member

to facilitate making caster and camber

adjustments after installation of the

upper arm.

8. Remove the suspension upper

arm-to-underbody attaching bolts,

lock washers, and attaching nuts.

Then, remove the upper arm.

Installation

1.
Position the upper arm shaft on

the underbody member. Line up the

shaft with the marks made before re-

moval of the arm.

2.
Install the attaching bolts and

lock washers. FABRICATE A

TOOL, AS SHOWN IN Fig. 27, to

hold the nut in place while starting the

attaching bolt into the nut. Remove

the tool; then, tighten the attaching

bolts to specification.

3.
Guide the ball joint stud into the

spindle. Install the attaching nut and

torque it to specification. Continue

tightening the nut to line up the cotter

pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.

4.
Install the wheel and tire, and

torque the wheel lug nuts to specifica-

tion.

5.
With the front end weight of the

car on the wheels, torque the bolts at

the ends of the upper arm shaft to

specification if the bushings were re-

placed.

6. Check the front wheel alignment.

FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Removal

1.
Raise the vehicle until the front

wheel clears the floor, and place a

support under the frame.

2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel

cover.

3.
If equipped with drum type

brakes—remove the wheel and tire

and brake drum as an assembly (Part

3-12). Remove the brake backing

plate attaching bolts and remove the

backing plate from the spindle. Wire

the backing plate to the underbody to

prevent damage to the brake hose.
1/16" GAUGE
-*.

STEEL (REFERENCE)

—3/16'
3/8'

1/2" DIAMETER PLUG WELD

F 1501-A

FIG. 27 -Upper Arm Shaft Installing Tool

4.
If equipped with disc brakes—re-

move the wheel and tire from the hub.

Remove 2 bolts and washers retaining

the caliper and brake hose to the

spindle. Remove the caliper from the

rotor and wire it to the underbody to

prevent damage to the brake hose.

Then, remove the hub and rotor from

the spindle (Part 3-12). Remove 3

bolts attaching the splash shield to the

spindle and remove the splash shield.

5.
Remove the steering connecting

rod from the spindle arm with tool

OTC462.

6. Remove the cotter pins from

both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen

the nuts one or two turns. Do not re-

move the nuts from the studs at this

time.

7.
Install the ball joint remover tool

between the upper and lower ball joint

studs (Fig. 7). The tool sho.uld seat

firmly against the ends of both studs

and not against the stud nuts.

8. Turn the tool nut with a wrench

until the tool places the studs under

tension, and, with a hammer, tap the

spindle near the stud to loosen them

in the spindle. Do not loosen the studs

in the spindle with tool pressure only.

9. Position a floor jack under the

lower control arm.

10.
Remove the ball joint stud nuts

and lower the lower arm enough to re-

move the spring and the spindle.
Installation

1.
Position the spindle to the lower

ball joint stud and install the attaching

nut. Torque the nut to specification.

Continue to tighten the nut until the

cotter pin hole is in line with the slots

in the nut. Then, install the cotter pin.

2.
Position the spring and raise the

lower arm and guide and upper ball

joint stud into the spindle hole and in-

stall the attaching nut. Torque the nut

to specification and install the cotter

pin as outlined in the preceeding step.

3.
Remove the floor jack from

under the lower arm.

4.
Attach the steering connecting

rod to the spindle and install the nut.

Torque the nut to specification. Con-

tinue to tighten the nut until the cotter

pin hole is in line with the slots in the

nut. Then, install the cotter pin.

5.
If equipped with drum type

brakes—Position the brake backing

plate to the spindle and install the at-

taching bolts. Torque the bolts to spe-

cification. Adjust the brakes as out-

lined in Part 2-2. Install the wheel,

tire,
and drum to the spindle and ad-

just the wheel bearings as outlined in

Part 3-12).

6. If equipped with disc brak-

es—Install the splash shield on the

spindle and torque the attaching bolts

to specification (Part 3-13). Install theprocarmanuals.com

03-07-04
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-04

12.
Stop the engine, and check the

control valve and hose connections for

fluid leaks. Correct the cause of any

leaks.

13.
Check the fluid level, and refill

the reservoir if necessary.

14.
With the engine running check

the position of the steering wheel

when the front wheels are in the

straight-ahead position.Do not make

any adjustments until toe-in is

checked.

15.
Keep the engine running, and

check toe-in. If either toe-in or steer-

ing wheel position is not correct make

all necessary adjustments (Part 3-1) at

the spindle connecting rod sleeves.

16.
Check the effort to turn the

wheels in both directions. The effort

should be about equal in both direc-

tions.

POWER CYLINDER

REMOVAL

1.
Disconnect the two fluid lines

from the power cylinder and allow

them to drain into a container.
CENTER LINK

POWER CYLINDER

Tool- T64P-3590-F

G 1654-A

FIG. 5—Disconnecting Power

Cylinder Stud

2.
Remove the 'pal nut, attaching

nut, washer and the insulator from the

end of the power cylinder rod.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and cas-

tellated nut that secures the power

cylinder stud to the center link.

4.
Disconnect the power cylinder

stud from the center link as shown in

Fig. 5.

5.
Remove the insulator sleeve and

washer from the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.
6. Inspect the tube fittings and the

seats in the power cylinder for nicks,

burrs or damage. Replace the seats in

the cylinder or the tubes as required.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install the washer, sleeve and the

insulator on the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.

2.
Extend the rod as far as possible.

Insert the rod in the bracket on the

frame and compress the rod as neces-

sary to insert the stud in the -center

link. Secure the stud with a castellat-

ed, nut and a cotter pin.

3.
Secure the power cylinder rod

with an insulator, washer, nut and a

pal nut.

4.
Connect each of the two fluid

lines to its respective port in the cylin-

der.

5.
Fill the reservoir to the correct

level.

6. Start the engine and turn the

steering wheel to each end of its travel

several times to cycle the system. Stop

the engine.

7.
Check the fluid level and fill as

necessary. Install the dipstick and cap.

8. Start the engine and check for

leaks.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

CONTROL VALVE

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Wipe all fluid and loose dirt

from the outside of the control valve.

2.
Remove the centering spring cap

from the valve housing (Fig. 6).

When holding the control valve for

disassembly, use a soft-jawed vise, and

clamp the valve only around the sleeve

flange to prevent damage to the hous-

ing, spool, or sleeve.

3.
Remove the nut from the end of

the valve spool bolt. Remove the

washers, spacer, centering spring,

adapter, and bushing from the bolt

and the valve housing.

4.
Remove the two bolts that hold

the valve housing and the sleeve to-

gether, and separate the housing from

the sleeve.

5.
Remove the plug from the valve

sleeve.

6. Push the valve spool out of the

centering spring end of the valve hous-

ing, and remove the seal from the

spool.

7.
Remove the spacer, bushing, and

seal from the sleeve end of the valve

housing.
8. Drive the stop pin out of the

travel regulator stop with a punch and

hammer (Fig. 7). Pull the head of the

valve spool bolt tightly against the

travel regulator stop before driving the

pin out of the stop.

9. Turn the travel regulator stop

counterclockwise in the valve sleeve to

remove the stop from the sleeve.

10.
Remove the valve spool bolt,

spacer, and rubber washer from the

travel regulator stop.

11.
Remove the rubber boot and

clamp from the valve sleeve.

12.
Slide the bumper, spring, and

ball stud seat out of the valve sleeve,

and remove the ball stud socket from

the sleeve.

13.
After removing the return port

hose seat, remove the return port re-

lief valve.

14.
After removing the spring plug

and O-ring, remove the reaction limit-

ing valve (Fig. 8).

Tube Seat Replacement

If a hose seat is worn or damaged it

should be replaced. It can be removed

with an Easy-Out tool, or by using a

bolt of appropriate size as a puller.
1.
Tap the existing hole in the hose

seat, using a starting tap of suitable

size.
Be sure to remove all metal chips

from the hose seat port after tapping.

2.
Place a nut and large flat washer

on a bolt of the same size as the

tapped hole. The washer must be large

enough to cover the hose seat port.

3.
Insert the bolt in the tapped

hole,
and using the nut as a puller, re-

move the hose seat.

4.
Place a new hose seat in the

port, and thread a bolt of suitable size

into the port. Tighten the bolt enough

to bottom the seat in the port.

ASSEMBLY

Before assembling the control valve,

coat all parts except the seals with

Automatic Transmission Fluid. Coat

the seals with lubricant COAZ-

19553-A.

1.
Install the reaction limiting

valve, the spring, and the plug.

2.
Install the return port relief valve

and the hose seat.

3.
Insert one of the ball stud seats

(flat end first) into the ball stud sock-

et, and insert the threaded end of the

ball stud into the socket.procarmanuals.com

03-09-03
Saginaw Design Integral Power Steering Gear

03-09-03

shaft and install and tighten the attach-

ing bolts to specification.

6. Connect and tighten the fluid
pressure and the return line to the

steering gear.

7. Fill the power steering pump and
cycle the steering gear. Check for

leaks.
Check the reservoir fluid level

again and add as required.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

Disassembly and reassembly of the

unit and the subassemblies must be

made on a clean workbench. As in re-

pairing any hyldraulically operated

unit, cleanliness is of tftfiiost impor-

tance. Therefore, the bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

gear with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary, drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid from the gear as possible.

DISASSEMBLY INTO

SUB-ASSEMBLIES

1,
Mount the steering gear in a

vise.
(Fig..
2\

2.
Rotate the end plug retaining

ring to place one end of the ring

opposite the hole in the housing.
3.
Working through the hole in the

housing (Fig. 3), unseat the retaining

ring then work it out of the groove

with a screwdriver.

4.
Rotate the input shaft in a coun-

terclockwise direction using a 3/4

inch, 12-point socket wrench to force

the end plug out of the housing. Do

not rotate the shaft any more than

necessary to remove the plug. Further

rotation will allow the balls to fall

from their circuit and allow the rack-

piston to become disengaged from the

sector shaft. Remove the O-ring from

the housing and discard it.

5.
Rotate the input shaft 1/2 turn

in a clockwise direction to draw the

piston inward.

6. Turn the end plug (Fig. 4) count-

erclockwise out of the piston with a

1/2 inch drive extension.
7.
Remove the lock nut from the

sector shaft adjustment screw. Discard

the nut.

8. Remove the four cover attaching

screws. Rotate the sector shaft adjust-

ment screw with an Allen wrench until

the cover is free of the housing. Re-

move the cover and the O-ring. Dis-

card the O-ring.

9. Turn the input shaft as required

to center the sector shaft teeth in the

housing.

10.
Tap the end of the sector shaft

with a soft-faced hammer to free it

from the housing.

11.
Remove the adjuster plug lock

nut.

12.
Remove the adjuster p>ug with

spanner wrench T65P-3A537-A (Fig.

15).

13.
Insert the tool shown ir Fig. 6

LOCK NUT RETUF™ P0RT

INLET PORT

TORSION BAR

STUB SHAFT
SECTOR SHAFT

ADJUSTMENT SCREW

ADJUSTER PLUG

HOUSING

SECTOR SHAFT

G
1649-
A

FIG. 2—Steering Gear
END PLUG

G1648-A

FIG. 3—Removing End Plug

Retaining Rinaprocarmanuals.com

03-12-02
Wheels
And
Tires

03-12-02

LIFE GUARD TIRE

The Goodyear Power Cushion Tire

(available
on
Thunderbird, Lincoln

and Continental Mark
III
models)
fit-

ted with
the
Life Guard Safety Spare
provides
a
tire within
a
tire with
two

separate
air
chambers
(Fig.
3). If the

outer tire casing should
be
punctured

or otherwise damaged causing
it to go

flat,
the
Life Guard Safety Spare will

carry
the
load
of the
vehicle
and
will
allow driving
at
speeds
up to 40 mph

with good control
up to a
distance
of

40 miles.
A
Safety-Signal built into

the Life Guard tread produces
a
lope

or vibration indicating
the
outer tire

has lost pressure.

HUB AND ROTOR

ASSEMBLY
INNER

BEARING

CUP
GREASE

RETAINER

ADJUSTING

NUT

OUTER

BEARING

CONE
AND

ROLLER

INNER BEARING

CONE
AND

ROLLER

WHEEL

ASSEMBLY

F1416-A

F- 1380 •
A

FIG. 2—Front
Hub and
Rotor Bearing
and
Grease

Retainer Disc Brakes—Typical
FIG. 3—Life Guard Safety

Tire—Sectional View

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage
to
steering linkage compo-

nents
and
front suspension struts
may

occur
if
care
is
not
exercised when
po-

sitioning
the
hoist adapters
of 2
post

hoists prior
to
lifting
the
vehicle.

If
a 2
post hoist
is
used
to
lift
the

vehicle, place
the
adapters under
the

lower arms
or
the No. 1
crossmember.

Do
not
allow
the
adapters
to
contact

steering linkage.
If the
adapters
are

placed under
the
crossmember,
a
piece

of wood (2x4x16 inches) should
be

placed
on the
hoist channel between

the adapters. This will prevent
the

adapters from damaging
the
front
sus-

pension struts.

FRONT WHEEL BEARING

ADJUSTMENT

The front wheel bearings should
be

adjusted
if the
wheel
is
loose
on the

spindle
or if the
wheel does
not
rotate

freely.
The
following procedures will

bring
the
bearing adjustment
to
speci-

fication.

DRUM BRAKES

1.
Raise
the
vehicle until
the
wheel

and tire clear
the
floor.
2.
Pry off the hub cap or
wheel

cover
and
remove
the
grease
cap (Fig.

1) from
the hu6.

3.
Wipe
the
excess grease from
the

end
of the
spindle,
and
remove
the

cotter
pin and nut
lock.

4.
While rotating
the
wheel,
hub,

and drum assembly, torque
the
adjust-

ing
nut to 17-25
ft-lbs
to
seat
the

bearings
(Fig.
4).

5.
Locate
the nut
lock
on the ad-

justing
nut so
that
the
castellations
on

the lock
are
aligned with
the
cotter

pin hole
in the
spindle.

6. Using
a 1
1/8-inch
box
wrench,

WITH WHEEL ROTATING

TORQUE ADJUSTING
NUT

TO 17-25 FT. LBS.
BACK ADJUSTING

NUT
OFF
1/2
TURN
back
off the
adjusting
nut one
half

turn. Retighten
the
adjusting
nut to

10-15 in-lbs with
a
torque wrench
or

finger tight.

7.
Position
the
lock
on the
adjust-

ing
nut and
install
a new
cotter
pin.

Bend
the
ends
of
the
cotter
pin
around

the castellated flange
of the nut
lock.

8. Check
the
front wheel rotation.

If
the
wheel rotates properly, install

the grease
cap and the hub cap or

wheel cover.
If the
wheel still rotates

roughly
or
noisily, clean, inspect
or

replace
the
bearings
and
cups
as re-

quired.

TIGHTEN ADJUSTING

NUT
TO
10-15 IN.-LBS.
INSTALL THE LOCK

AND
A
NEW COTTER
PIN

F1417-A

FIG. 4— Front Wheel Bearing Adjustmentprocarmanuals.com

03-12-05
Wheels
And
Tires

03-12-05

and sharp edges from valve hole
in

rim.

8. Mount first tire bead exercising

care
not to
pinch
air
container.

9. Start valve through hole
in rim.

Do
not
pull valve housing into place

at this time.

10.
Mount
the
second bead starting

just past
the
valve
so the
last portion

of
the
bead goes over
the rim at the

valve.

11.
Rotate
the
tire back
and
forth

to center
the
valve housing.

12.
Pull
the
valve housing into

place. Make certain that
the
rubber

valve ridge
is
visible around
thi
valve

housing
(Fig.
12).

13.
Tighten
the
core housing lightly

using pliers.

14.
Thread
the
Inflate-Chek adapt-

er onto
the
core housing.
15.
Inflate
the
inner chamber
to

seat
the
tire beads exercising care
not

to exceed
45 psi
pressure. Adjust this

inner chamber
air
pressure
to 15 psi

higher than
the
recommended tire

pressure.

F 1387
- A

FIG. 12—Valve Installation
16.
Remove
the
Inflate-Chek

adapter
and
adjust tire (outer cham-

ber) pressure
to the
recommended

pressure.

17.
Recheck inner chamber pres-

sure.

18.
Install valve
cap.

WHEEL
AND
TIRE

INSTALLATION

1.
Clean
all
dirt from
the hub and

drum.

2.
Position
the
wheel
and
tire
on

the
hub and
drum. Install
the
wheel

hub nuts
and
tighten them alternately

to draw
the
wheel evenly against
the

hub
and
drum.

3.
Lower
the
vehicle
to the
floor,

and torque
the hub
nuts
to
specifica-

tion.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage
to
steering linkage compo-

nents
and
front suspension struts
may

occur
if
care
is
not
exercised when
po-

sitioning
the
hoist adapters
of 2
post

hoists prior
to
lifting
the
vehicle.

If
a 2
post hoist
is
used
to
lift
the

vehicle, place
the
adapters under
the

lower arms
or the
No.
1
crossmember.

Do
not
allow
the
adapters
to
contact

the steering linkage.
If the
adapters

are placed under
the
crossmember,
a

piece
of
wood (2x4x16 inches) should

be placed
on the
hoist channel
be-

tween
the
adapters. This will prevent

the adapters from damaging
the
front

suspension struts.

FRONT WHEEL GREASE

SEAL
AND
BEARING

REPLACEMENT AND/OR

REPACKING

If bearing adjustment will
not
elimi-

nate looseness
or
rough
and
noisy
op-

eration,
the hub and
bearings should

be cleaned, inspected,
and
repacked

with specified wheel grease.
If the

bearing cups
or the
cone
and
roller

assemblies
are
worn
or
damaged, they

should
be
replaced.

DRUM BRAKES

1.
Raise
the
vehicle until
the
wheel

and tire clear
the
floor.

2.
Remove
the
wheel cover
or hub
cap.
Remove
the
grease
cap
from
the

hub.
Remove
the
cotter
pin,
nut
lock,

adjusting
nut, and
flat washer from

the spindjej, Remove
the
outer bearing

cone
and
roller assembly
(Fig.
1).

3.
Pull
the
wheel,
hub, and
drum

assembly
off the
wheel spindle.

4.
Remove
and
discard
the
grease

retainer. Remove
the
inner bearing

Too/-T69L-J102-A

F1476-A

FIG. 13—Removing Front Wheel

Bearing Cup—Except Lincoln

Continental
cone
and
roller assembly from
the hub

with Tool 1175AE.

5.
Clean
the
lubricant
off the
inner

and outer bearing cups with solvent

and inspect
the
cups
for
scratches,

pits,
excessive wear,
and
other
dam-

age.
If
the
cups
are
worn
or
damaged,

remove them with Tool T69L-1102-A

(Fig.
13).

6. Thoroughly clean
the
inner
and

outer bearing cone
and
roller assem-

blies with solvent
and dry
them thor-

oughly.
Do not
spin
the
bearings with

compressed
air.

Inspect
the
cone
and
roller assem-

blies
for
wear
or
damage,
and
replace

them
if
necessary.
The
cone
and
roller

assemblies
and the
bearing cups

should
be
replaced
as a
unit
if
damage

to either
is
encountered.

7. Thoroughly clean
the
spindle
and

the inside
of the hub
with solvent
to

remove
all old
lubricant.

Cover
the
spindle with
a
clean

cloth,
and
brush
all
loose dust
and

dirt from
the
brake assembly.
To
pre-

vent getting dirt
on the
spindle, care-

fully remove
the
cloth from
the

spindle.

8.
If the
inner and/or outer bearing

cup(s) were removed, install
the re-

placement cup(s)
in the hub
with
the

tool shown
in Fig.
14.
Be
sure
to
seat

the cups properly
in the hub.

9. Pack
the
inside
of the hub
with

specified wheel bearing grease.
Add

lubricant
to the hub
only until
the

grease
is
flush with
the
inside diame-

ter
of
both bearing cups
(Fig.
15).procarmanuals.com

04-02-04
Rear Axle — Removable Carrier Type
04-02-04

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

REAR AXLE SHAFT, WHEEL

BEARING AND OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

The rear axle shafts, wheel bear-

ings,
and oil seal can be replaced

without removing the differential as-

sembly from the axle housing.

REMOVAL OF

AXLE SHAFT

Synthetic wheel bearing seals are

used in production only. Removal and

insertion of rear axle shafts must be

performed with caution. The entire

length of the shaft (including spline)

up to the seal journal must pass

through the seal without cutting of the

seal element during axle removal or

installation will result in early seal fai-

lure.
Leather seals only will be used as

service replacement for synthetic

wheel bearing seals.

1.
Remove the wheel cover, wheel

and tire from the brake drum.

2.
Remove the nuts that secure the

brake drum to the axle shaft flange,

then remove the drum from flange.

3.
Working through the hole pro-

vided in each axle shaft flange, re-

move the nuts that secure the wheel

bearing retainer plate. Then pull the

axle shaft assembly out of the axle

housing (Fig. 4). The brake backing

plate must not be dislodged. Install

one nut to hold the plate in place after

the axle shaft is removed.

Too/-4235-C

E1032-D

FIG. 4—Removing Axle Shaft

REMOVAL OF REAR

WHEEL BEARING AND

SEAL

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvents.

Removal of the wheel bearings from

the axle shaft makes them unfit for

further use.

1.
On all models except Ford, Mer-

cury or Meteor, if the rear wheel

bearing is to be replaced, loosen the

inner retainer ring by nicking it deeply

with a cold chisel in several places

(Fig. 5). It will then slide off easily.
E 1731-A

FIG. 5—Removing Rear Wheel

Bearing Retainer Ring

On Ford, Mercury and Meteor mo-

dels,
it is necessary to first drill a 1/4

inch hole not more than 5/16 inch

deep in the retainer ring surface bef-

ore using the cold chisel.

2.
Remove the bearing from the

axle shaft with the tool shown in Fig.

6 or Fig. 7.

3.
Whenever a rear axle shaft is re-

placed, the oil seal must be replaced.

Remove the seal with Tool 1175-AB

and a slide hammer (Fig. 8). If new

leather-type wheel bearing service

seals are to be installed, soak new oil

seals in SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour

before installing.

INSTALLATION OF REAR

WHEEL BEARING AND

SEAL

1.
Inspect the machined surface of

the axle shaft and the axle housing for

rough spots or other irregularities

which would affect the sealing action

of the oil seal. Check the axle shaft

splines for burrs, wear or twist. Care-

fully remove any burrs or rough spots.

Replace worn or damaged parts.

2.
Lightly coat wheel bearing bores

with axle lubricant.

3.
Place the retainer plate on the

axle shaft, and press the new wheel

bearing on the shaft with the tool

shown in Fig. 6 or Fig. 9. Do not at-

tempt to press on both the bearing

and the inner retainer ring at the same

time.

4.
Using the bearing installation

tool (Tool 4621-A or 4234-4), press

the bearing inner retainer ring on the

shaft until the retainer seats firmly

against the bearing. On Ford, Mercu-

ry, or Meteor models, before assem-

bling the retainer onto the axle shaft,

the shaft journal and the inside di-
ameter of the retainer should be wiped

clean with a dry cloth. These parts

must not be degreased or lubricated.

5. Rear wheel oil seals with synthe-

tic sealing elements have been incor-

porated in production only. However,

leather seals only will be used as re-

placements for the synthetic sealing

elements. Install the new oil seal with

the tools shown in Figs. 10 and 12. Be

sure the new seal has been soaked in

SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour before in-

stalling it. Wipe a small amount of oil

resistant sealer on the outer edge of

the seal before it is installed. Do not

put sealer on the sealing lip.

INSTALLATION OF

AXLE SHAFT

1.
Carefully slide the axle shaft into

the housing so that the rough forging

of the shaft will not damage the oil

seal. Start the axle splines into the

side gear, and push the shaft in until

the bearing bottoms in the housing.

2.
Install the bearing retainer plate

and the nuts that secure it. Torque the

nuts to specifications.

3.
Install the brake drum and the

drum attaching (Tinnerman) nuts.

4.
Install the wheel and tire on the

drum. Install the wheel cover.

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

COLLAPSIBLE SPACER

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.

The drive pinion oil seal can be re-

placed without removing the differen-

tial carrier assembly from the axle

housing.

1.
Raise the vehicle and install

safety stands. Remove both rear wheels

and brake drums.

2.
Make scribe marks on the drive

shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint

flange to insure proper position of the

drive shaft at assembly (Fig. 11). Dis-

connect the drive shaft from the axle

U-joint flange. Be careful to avoid

dropping the loose universal joint

bearing cups. Hold the cups on the

spider with tape. Mark the cups so

that they will be in their original posi-

tion in relation to the flange when

they are assembled. Remove the drive

shaft from the transmission extension

housing. Install an oil seal replacer

tool in the transmission extension

housing to prevent transmission fluidprocarmanuals.com

04-02-07
Rear Axle — Removable Carrier Type

04-02-07

burrs are evident, remove them with a

fine crocus cloth, working in a rota-

tional motion, then wipe clean. Apply

a small quantity of lubricant to U-

joint splines.

9. Install the U-joint flange using

the tool shown in Fig. 46.

10.
Install a new integral attaching

nut and washer on the pinion shaft.

11.
Tighten the pinion attaching

nut, rotating the pinion several times

to seat the bearing, then torque the pin-

ion nut to 180-200 ft-lbs. Hold the

flange with the tool shown in Fig. 22

or Fig. 23 while the nut is being tight-

ened.

12.
Remove the oil seal replacer

tool from the transmission extension

housing. Install the front end of the

drive shaft on the transmission output

shaft.

13.
Connect the rear end of the

drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange,

aligning the scribe marks made on the

drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-

joint flange.

14.
Check the lubricant level, and

add whatever amount of specified lu-

bricant is necessary to reach the lower

edge of the filler plug hole. Make sure

the axle is in running position when

the level is checked

ORIGINAL U-JOINT FLANGE

(IN VEHICLE REPLACEMENT)

Use procedure as outlined under

Drive Pinion Oil Seal Replacement.

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.

INSTALLATION OF A NEW

UNIVERSAL JOINT FLANGE

COLLAPSIBLE SPACER

1.
Raise the vehicle and install

safety stands. Remove both rear wheels

and brake drums.

2.
Disconnect the drive shaft from

the axle U-joint flange. Be careful to

avoid dropping the loose universal

joint bearing cups. Hold the cups on

the spider with tape. Mark the cups so

that they will be in their original posi-

tion in relation to the flange when

they are assembled. Remove the drive

shaft from the transmission extension

housing. Install an oil seal replacer

tool in the transmission extension

housing to prevent transmission fluid

leakage. Refer to the transmission

group for the appropriate tool.
3.
Install an in-lb torque wrench on

the pinion nut. Record the torque re-

quired to maintain rotation of the pin-

ion shaft through several revolutions.

4.
While holding the flange with the

tool shown in Fig. 23 or Fig. 24, re-

move the integral pinion nut and

washer.

5.
Clean the pinion bearing retainer

around the oil seal. Place a drain pan

under the seal, or raise the front of

the vehicle higher than the rear. Syn-

thetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.

6. Using the tool shown in Fig. 23

or Fig. 24, remove the U-joint flange.

7.
Check splines on the pinion shaft

to be sure they are free of burrs. If

burrs are evident, remove them by

using a fine crocus cloth, working in a

rotational motion, then wipe clean.

Apply a small amount of lubricant

to U-joint splines.

8. Install the U-joint flange using

the tool shown in Fig. 46.

9. Install a new integral nut and

washer on the pinion shaft. (Apply a

small amount of lubricant on the

washer side of the nut.)

10.
Hold the flange with the tool

shown in Fig. 23 or Fig. 24 while the

nut is being tightened.

11.
Tighten the pinion shaft nut,

rotating the pinion occasionally to in-

sure proper bearing seating, and take

frequent preload readings until the

preload is at the original recorded

reading established in step 3.

12.
After original preload has been

reached, tighten the pinion nut slowly,

until an additional preload of 8 to 14

in-lb over the original reading is

reached. (The preload should not ex-

ceed 8 to 14 in-lb over the original

reading, or bearing failure may result.

Under no circumstances should the

pinion nut be backed off to lessen pre-

load. If this is done, a new pinion

bearing spacer must be installed. In

addition, the U-joint flange must

never be hammered on, or power tools

used.

13.
Remove the oil seal replacer

tool from the transmission extension

housing. Install the front end of the

drive shaft on the transmission output

shaft.

14.
Connect the rear end of the

drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange,

aligning the scribe marks made on the

drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-

joint flange.

15.
Check the lubricant level. Make

sure the axle is in running position.
Add whatever amount of specified lu-

bricant is required to reach the lower

edge of the filler plug hole.

SOLID SPACER

1.
Disconnect the drive shaft from

the axle U-joint flange. Be careful to

avoid dropping the loose universal

joint bearing cups. Hold the cups on

the spider with tape. Mark the cups so

that they will be in their original posi-

tion in relation to the flange when

they are assembled. Remove the drive

shaft from the transmission extension

housing. Install an oil seal replacer

tool in the transmission extension

housing to prevent transmission leak-

age.
Refer to the transmission group

for the appropriate tool.

2.
While holding the flange with the

tool shown in Fig. 23 or Fig. 24, re-

move the integral pinion nut and

washer.

3.
Clean the pinion bearing retainer

around the oil seal. Place a drain pan

under the seal, or raise the front of

the vehicle higher than the rear.

4.
Using the tool shown in Fig. 23

or Fig. 24, remove the U-joint flange.

5.
Check splines on the pinion shaft

to be sure they are free of burrs. If

burrs are evident, remove them by

using a fine crocus cloth, working in a

rotational motion, then wipe clean.

Apply a small amount of lubricant to

U-joint splines.

6. Install the U-joint flange using

the tool shown in Fig. 46.

7.
Install integral attaching nut and

washer on the pinion shaft.

8. Tighten the pinion attaching nut,

rotating the pinion several times to

seat the bearing, then torque the pin-

ion attaching nut to 180-220 ft-lbs.

Hold the flange with the tool shown in

Fig. 23 or Fig. 24 while the nut is

being tightened.

9. Remove the oil seal replacer tool

from the transmission extension hous-

ing. Install the front end of the drive

shaft on the transmission output shaft.

10.
Connect the rear end of the

drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange.

11.
Check the lubricant level, and

add whatever amount of specified lu-

bricant is necessary to reach the lower

edge of the filler plug hole. Make sure

the axle is in running position when

the level is checked.

DRIVE SHAFT PINION ANGLE

ADJUSTMENT

Refer to Group 3, Part 3-2 for this

procedure.procarmanuals.com

04-02-20
Rear Axle — Removable Carrier Type

0402-20

THRUST WASHER

E1175-B

FIG. 48—Assembling Differential Case

13.
Install the bearing cap bolts

and alternately torque them. The 9

3/8 inch ring gear size axle requires

60-70 ft-lbs. The 8 3/4 inch and 9

inch ring gear size axles require 70-85

ft-lbs.

14.
If the adjusting nuts do not turn

freely as the cap bolts are tightened,

remove the bearing caps and again in-

spect for damaged threads of incor-

rectly positioned caps. Tightening the

bolts to the specified torque is done to
be sure that the cups and adjusting

nuts are seated. Loosen the cap bolts,

and torque them to only 25 ft. lbs be-

fore making adjustments.

15.
Adjust the backlash between the

DIFFERENTIAL

BEARING

CONE AND

ROLLER

E 1700-A

FIG. 49—
Installing
Differential

Bearing
1376-A

FIG. 50—Installing Differential

bearing
ring gear and pinion as outlined in

Part 4-1, Section 2.

16.
Be sure to make a final tooth

pattern check before installing the

carrier assembly in the axle housing.

Limited-Slip

Differential Case

1.
Place the inner side gear and

thrust washer in the differential case

(Fig. 52). Lubricate all parts liberally

with limited-slip axle lubricant during

assembly.

2.
With a soft-faced hammer, drive

the pinion shaft into the case only far

enough to retain a pinion thrust wash-

er and pinion gear.

3.
Place the second pinion and

thrust washer in position and drive

the pinion shaft into place. Carefully

line up the pinion shaft lock in holes.

4.
Install the pinion shaft lock pin.

The lock pin must not extend beyond

the surface of the case.

5. Insert two 2-inch 7/16 (NF)

bolts through the differential case

flange, and thread them three or four

turns into the ring gear as a guide in

aligning the ring gear bolt holes. Press

or tap the ring gear into position.

6. Clamp the differential case in a

soft-jawed vise. Install the differential

outer side gear on the differential pin-

ion gears. Place the clutch hub on

the side gear. Place the thrusi: washer

on the huh

Limited-Slip dutch

Plate Installation

Prior to clutch plate installation,

the friction bonded plates must be

soaked in C6AZ-19570-C (ESW-

M2C-104-A) differential lubricant for

approximately 1/2 hour. In addition,

the differential lubricant must be lib-

erally applied to all components to

be assembled.

1.
Place the clutch hub into posi-

tion in a soft-jawed vise.

2.
First, install a steel clutch plate

in the cavity of the differential case

opposite the ring gear and then a

bonded friction plate (Fig. 53). Any

tab on the steel plates can be inserted

into any cavity in the differential case,

however when the first steel plate is

inserted the others must be placed in

the same manner (Fig. 54) so the tabs

with slots line up. Install the remain-

ing plates: a steel plate, bonded fric-

tion plate, a steel plate, bonded fric-

tion plate and lastly a steel plate.

Make sure the bonded friction plate

inner-spline teeth properly engage the

hub spline.procarmanuals.com