1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE light

.
3-42 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
Fig. 180 Silent shaft alignment marks. No,
tice the tension side of the inner (silen
shaft) belt-2.41 enaine
Timing merk
(pun+ on sprocket)
liming m&k
(notch in sprocket)
79245g31 :ig. 181 Timing belt pulley alignmenl
narks-2.41 enoine
20. Hold the pulley tightly so it does not rotate
when the bolt is tlghtened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft.
Ibs. (20 Nm). If the pulley has moved, the belt will be
too tight
21. Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward
the water pump and temporarily tighten the bolts.
Place the upper end of the spring against the water
pump body. Align the timing marks of the cam,
crankshaft and oil pump sprockets with the corre-
sponding marks on the front case or head.
*If the following steps are not followed ex-
actly, there is a chance that the silent shaft
alignment will be 180 degrees off. This will
cause a noticeable vibration in the engine
and the entire procedure will have to be re-
peated.
22. Before installing the timing belt, ensure that
the left side silent shaft is in the correct position.
*It is possible to align the timing marks on
the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket
and the oil pump sprocket with the lefl bal-
ance shaft out of alignment.
23. With the timing mark on the oil pump pulley
aligned with the mark on the front case, check the
alignment of the left balance shaft to assure correct
shaft timing. a. Remove the plug located on the left side of
the block in the area of the starter.
b. Insert a tool having a shaft diameter of 0.3
in. (8mm) into the hole.
c. With the timing marks still aligned, the tool
must be able to go in at least 2l/s in. (59mm). If
it can only go m about 1 in. (25mm), turn the oil
pump sprocket one complete revolution.
d. Recheck the position of the balance shaft
with the timing marks reahgned. Leave the tool in
place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.
24. Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil
pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket, in that or-
der. While doing so, be sure there is no slack be-
tween the sprockets except where the tensioner will
take it up when released.
25. Recheck the timing marks’ alignment.
26. If all are aligned, loosen the tensioner mount-
ing bolt, and allow the tensioner to apply tension to
the belt.
27. Remove the tool that is holding the silent
shaft in place and turn the crankshaft clockwise a dis-
tance equal to two teeth of the camshaft sprocket.
This will allow the tensioner to automatically tension
the belt the proper amount.
Do not manually apply pressure to the ten-
sioner. This will overtighten the belt and will
cause a howling noise.
28. First tighten the lower mounting bolt and then
tighten the upper spacer bolt.
If any binding is felt when adiustino the tim-
ing delt tension by turning th;! crankshaft,
STOP turning the engine, because the pis-
tons may be hitting the valves.
29. To verify that belt tension is correct, check
that the deflection of the longest span (between the
camshaft and oil pump sprockets) is I/* in. (13mm).
30. Install the lower timing belt cover. Be sure the
packing is properly positioned in the inner grooves of
the covers when installing.
31. Install the water pump pulley and the crank-
shaft pulley(s).
32. Install the upper front timing belt cover.
33. Install the power steering pump, alternator,
air conditioning compressor, tension pulley and ac-
companying brackets, as required.
34. Install the radiator, shroud, fan and accessory
drive belts.
35. Install the spark plug wires to the tree on the
upper cover.
36. Refill the cooling system.
37. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the
engme and check for leaks.
3.OL SDHC Engine
1992-94 MODELS
# See Figures 182 and 183
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the engine undercover
3. Remove the cruise control
actuator 4. Remove the accessory drive belts. 5. Remove the air conditioner compressor ten-
sion pulley assembly.
6. Remove the tension pulley bracket.
7. Using the proper equipment, slightly raise
the engine to take the weight off the side engine
mount. Remove the engine mounting bracket.
8. Detach the power steering pump pressure
switch connector. Remove the power steering pump
and wire aside.
9. Remove the engine support bracket.
10. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
11. Remove the timing belt cover cap.
12. Remove the timing belt upper and lower cov-
ers.
13. If the same timing belt will be reused, mark
the direction of the timing belt’s rotation for installa-
tion in the same direction. Make sure the engine is
positioned so the No. 1 cylinder is at the TDC of its
compression stroke and the sprockets’ timing marks
are aligned with the engine’s timing mark indicators.
14. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and re-
move the belt. If the tensioner is not being removed,
position it as far away from the center of the engine
as possible and tighten the bolt.
15. If the tensioner is being removed, paint the
outside of the spring to ensure that it is not installed
backwards. Unbolt the tensioner and remove it along
with the spring.
To install:
16. Install the tensioner, if removed, and hook the
upper end of the spring to the water pump pin and
the lower end to the tensioner in exactly the same po-
sition as originally installed. If not already done, po-
sition both camshafts so the marks align with those
on the rear. Rotate the crankshaft so the timing mark
aligns with the mark on the oil pump.
17. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft
sprocket and while keeping the belt tight on the ten-
sion side, install the belt on the front camshaft
sprocket.
18. Install the belt on the water pump pulley, then
the rear camshaft sprocket and the tensioner.
19. Rotate the front camshaft counterclockwise to
tension the belt between the front camshaft and the
crankshaft. If the tlmlng marks became misaligned,
repeat the procedure.
20. Install the crankshaft sprocket flange.
21. Loosen the tensioner bolt and allow the
spring to apply tension to the belt.
22. Turn the crankshaft 2 full turns in the clock-
wise direction until the timing marks align again.
Now that the belt is properly tensioned, torque the
tensioner lock bolt to 21 ft. Ibs. (29 Nm). Measure
the belt tension between the rear camshaft sprocket
and the crankshaft with belt tension gauge, The spec-
ification is 46-68 Ibs. (210-310 N).
23. Install the timing covers. Make sure all pieces
of packing are positioned in the inner grooves of the
covers when Installing.
24. install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt
to 108-116ft. Ibs. (150-160 Nm)
25. Install the engine support bracket.
26. Install the power steering pump and recon-
nect wire harness at the power steering pump pres-
sure switch.
27. Install the engine mounting bracket and re-
move the engine support fixture.
28. Install the tension pulleys and drive belts.
29. Install the cruise control actuator.
30 Install the engine undercover.

.
3-44 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHALJL
31. Connect the negative battery cable.
32. Road test the vehicle.
EXCEPT 1992-94 MODELS
$ See Figure 184
1. Position the engine so the No. 1 cylinder is at
TDC of its compression stroke.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative
battery cable is disconnected to prevent pos-
sible deployment of the air bag.
3. Remove the engine undercover.
4. Remove the front undercover panel.
5. Remove the cruise control pump and the link
assembly.
6. Remove the alternator.
7. Raise and suspend the engine so that force is
not applied to the engme mount,
8. Remove the timing covers from the engine.
9. If the same timing belt will be reused, mark
the direction of the timing belt’s rotation for installa-
tion in the same direction. Make sure the engine is
positroned so the No. 1 cylinder is at the TDC of its
compression stroke and the timing marks are aligned
with the engine’s timing mark indicators on the valve
covers or head. 10. Loosen the center bolt of tensioner pulley and
unbolt auto-tensioner assembly The auto-tensioner
assembly must be reset to correctly adjust belt ten-
sion. Remove the timing belt.
11. Using a wrench, hold the camshaft at its
hexagon and remove the camshaft sprocket bolt.
12. Remove and position the auto-tensioner into
a vise with soft jaws. The plug at the rear of tensioner
protrudes, be sure to use a washer as a spacer to
protect the plug from contacting vise jaws.
13. Slowly push the rod Into the tensioner until
the set hole rn rod is aligned with set hole in the
auto-tensioner.
14. Insert a 0.055 in. (1.4mm) wire into the
aligned set holes. Unclamp the tensioner from the
vise and install it on the engine. Trghten tensroner to
17 ft. Ibs. (24 Nm).
15. Clean and inspect both auto tensioner
mounting bolts. Coat the threads of the old bolts with
thread sealer. If new bolts are installed, Inspect the
heads of the new bolts. If there is white paint on the
bolt head, no sealer is required. If there is no parnt on
the head of the bolt, apply a coat of thread sealer to
the bolt. Install both bolts and tighten to 17 ft. Ibs.
(24 Nm).
To install: 16. Install the tensioner, if removed, and hook the
upper end of the spring to the water pump pin and
the lower end to the tensioner in exactly the same po-
sition as originally installed. 17. Ensure both camshafts are still positioned so
the timing marks align with those on the rear timing
covers.
18. Rotate the crankshaft so the timing mark
aligns with the mark on the front cover.
19. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft
sprocket and while keeping the belt tight on the ten-
sion side, mstall the belt on the front (left) camshaft
sprocket.
20 Install the belt on the water pump pulley, then
the rear (right) camshaft sprocket and the tensioner.
21. Loosen the bolt that secures the adjustment
of the tensioner and lightly press the tensioner
against the timing belt.
22. Check that the timing marks are in alignment.
23 Rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns in the clock-
wise direction only, then realign the timing marks,
24. Tighten the bolt that secures the tensioner to
19 ft. Ibs. (26 Nm).
25. install the lower and the upper timing belt
covers, along with all other applicable components.
3.OL DDHC Engine
1992-94 MODELS
# See Figure 185
1. Position the engine so the No. 1 cylinder is at
TDC of its compression stroke.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the engine undercover.
Timing mark
(on belt cover)
Timing belt tensioner
Crankshaft
sprocket
7923W :ig. 184 Align the sprockets properly before removing or installing the timing belt-1995-96 Diamante with the 3.OL (6672) SDHC engine

ENGlNEANDENGlNEOVERHiUL 3-45
TIMINQ MARKS ON RIQHT SIDE VALVE COVER TIMING MARKS ON LEFT SIDE VALVE COVER
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKETS
91251gb5 :ig. 185 Crankshaft and camshaft sprocket alignment for proper timing belt replacement-1992-94 Mitsubishi 3.OL DOHC engine
4. Remove the cruise control actuator.
5. Remove the alternator. Remove the air hose
and pipe.
6. Remove the belt tensioner assembly and the
power steering belt.
7. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
8. Disconnect the brake fluid level sensor.
9. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
10. Using the proper equipment, slightly raise the
engine to take the weight off the side engine mount.
Remove the engine mount bracket.
11. Remove the alternator/air conditioner idler
pulley.
12. Remove the engine support bracket. The
mounting bolts are different lengths; mark them for
proper installation.
13. Remove the timing belt lower cover. Timing
bolt cover mounting bolts are different in length, note
their position during removal.
14. If the same timing belt will be reused, mark
the direction of the timing belt’s rotation for installa-
tion in the same dlrection. Make sure the engine is
positioned so the No. 1 cylinder is at the TDC of its
compression stroke and the sprockets’timing marks
are aligned with the engine’s timing mark indicators
on the valve covers or head.
15. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and re-
move the belt.
16. Remove the tensioner assembly.
To install:
17. If the auto tensioner rod is fully extended, re-
set it as follows:
a. Clamp the tensioner in a soft-jaw vice in
level position.
b. Slowly push the rod in with the vice until
the set hole in the rod is aligned with the hole in
the cylinder. c. Insert a stiff wire into the set holes to retain
the position.
d. Remove the assembly from the vice.
18. Leave the retaining wire in the tension and in-
stall to the engine.
19. If the timing marks of the camshaft sprockets
and crankshaft sprocket are not aligned at this point,
proceed as follows:
*Keep fingers out from between the
camshaft sprockets. The sprockets may move
unexpectedly because of valve spring pres-
sure and could pinch fingers.
a. Align the mark on the crankshaft sprocket
with the mark on the front case. Then move the
sprocket 2 teeth clockwise to lower the piston so
the valve can’t touch the piston when the
camshafts are being moved.
b. Turn each camshaft sprocket 1 at a time to
align the timing marks with the mark on the valve
cover or head. If the intake and exhaust valves of
the same cylinder are opened simultaneously,
they could interfere with each other. Therefore, if
any resistance is felt, turn the other camshaft to
move the valve.
c. Align the timing mark of the crankshaft
sprocket, then continue 1 tooth farther in the
counterclockwise direction to facilitate belt instal-
lation.
20. Using 4 spring loaded paper clips to hold the
belt on the cam sprockets, install the belt to the
sprockets in the following order:
l M-exhaust camshaft sprocket for the
front head
l 2nd-intake camshaft sprocket for the
front head
l trd-water pump pulley
l 5th-exhaust camshaft sprocket for tile
rear head
l Ah-intake camshaft sprocket for the rear
l Gth-idler pulley head l 7th-crankshaft sprocket l 8th-tensioner pulley
21. Turn the tensioner pulley so its pin holes are
located above the center bolt. Then press the ten-
sioner pulley against the timing belt and simultane-
ously tighten the center bolt.
22. Make certain that all timing marks are still
aligned. If so, remove the 4 clips.
23. Turn the crankshaft l/d turn counterclockwise,
then turn it clockwise until all timing marks are
aligned.
24. Loosen the center bolt on the tensioner pul-
ley. Using tool MD998767 or equivalent and a torque
wrench, apply a torque of 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm). Tighten
the tensioner bolt; make sure the tensioner doesn’t
rotate with the bolt.
25. Remove the set wire attached to the auto ten-
sioner, if the wire was not previously removed.
26. Rotate the crankshaft 2 complete turns clock-
wise and let it sit for approximately 5 minutes. Then,
make sure the set pin can easily be inserted and re-
moved from the hole in the tensioner.
27. Measure the auto tensioner protrusion (the
distance between the tensioner arm and auto ten-
sioner body) to ensure that it is within 0.15-0.18 in.
(3.8-4 5mm). If out of specification, repeat Steps
l-4 until the specified value is obtained.
28. Make sure all pieces of packing are posi-
tioned in the inner grooves of the lower cover, posi-
tion cover on engine and install mounting bolts in
their original location.

3-46 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
29. Install the engine support bracket and secure
using mounting bolts in their original location. Lubri-
cate the reaming area of the reamer bolt and tighten
slowly.
30. Install the idler pulley.
31. Install the engine mount bracket. Remove the
engine support fixture.
32. Make sure all pieces of packing are posi-
tioned in the inner grooves of the upper cover and in-
stall.
33. Connect the brake fluid level sensor.
34. Install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt
to 130-137ft. Ibs. (180-190 Nm).
35. install the belt tensioner assembly and the
power steering belt.
36 install the air hose and pipe.
37 Install the alternator.
38. Install the cruise control actuator.
39. Install the engine undercover.
40. Connect the negative battery cable.
199546 MODELS
# See Figure 186
1, Position the engine so the No. 1 cylinder is at
TDC of its compression stroke.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the engine undercover.
4 Remove the cruise control actuator. 5. Remove the alternator, Remove the air hose the engine’s timing mark indicators on the rear timing
and pipe.
6. Remove the belt tensioner assembly and the
power steering belt.
7. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
8. Disconnect the brake fluid level sensor.
9. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
10. Using the proper equipment, slightly raise the
engine to take the weight off the side engine mount.
Remove the engine mount bracket.
11, Remove the alternator/air conditioner idler
..,,ll^,. covers.
Turning the camshaft sprocket when the tim-
ing belt is removed could cause the valves to
contact with the pistons, resulting in severe
engine damage.
15. Remove the bolts that secure the auto-ten-
sioner to the engine block and remove the tensioner.
pu,ey. 12. Remove the engine support bracket. The To install:
mounting bolts are different lengths; mark them for
orooer installation. *The auto-tensioner assembly must be re-
set to correctlv adiust belt tension. , . 13. Remove the timing belt lower cover. Timing
bolt cover mounting bolts are different in length, note
their position during removal.
Be sure to disconnect the negative battery
cable. Wait at least 90 seconds after the neg-
ative battery cable is disconnected to prevent
possible deployment of the air bag.
14. If the same timing belt WIII be reused, mark
the direction of the trming belts rotation for installa-
tion In the same direction, Be sure the engine is posi-
tioned so the No. 1 cylinder is at the TDC of its com-
pression stroke and the timing marks are aligned with _ -
16. Loosen the center bolt of tensioner pulley to
provide timing belt slack.
17. Remove the timing belt assembly.
18. Posrtion the auto-tensioner into a vise with
soft iaws. The olua at the rear of tensioner protrudes,
be sure to usea v&her as a spacer to protect the
plug from contacting vise jaws.
19. Slowly push the rod mto the tensioner until
the set hole in rod is aligned with set hole in the
auto-tensioner.
20. Insert a 0.055 in. (1.4mm) wire into the
aligned set holes, Remove the tensioner from the vise
and install it on the engine.
21. Tighten tensioner mounting bolts to 17 ft. Ibs.
(24 Nm).
Timing marks
(on right
rocker cover)
Camshaft sprocket
Timing marks
mark (on oil pump case)
Crankshaft sprocket
Fig. 186 Sprocket alignment for timing belt installation-1995116 Diamante with the 3.N (6672) DDDD engine

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-47
DO NOT rotate or turn the camshafts when re-
moving the sprockets or severe engine dam-
age will result from internal component in-
terference.
22. Align the mark on the crankshaft sprocket
with the mark on the front case. Then, move the
crankshaft sprocket 1 tooth counterclockwise.
23. Align the timing marks of the camshafts with
the marks on the rear covers.
24. Using large paper clips to secure the timing
belt to the sprockets, install the timing belt in the fol-
lowing order. Be sure camshafts-to-cylinder heads
and crankshaft-to-front cover timing marks are
aligned. Install the timing belt around the pulleys in
the following order:
a. Exhaust camshaft sprocket (front bank).
b. Intake camshaft sprocket (front bank).
c. Water pump pulley.
d. Intake camshaft sprocket (rear bank).
e. Exhaust camshaft sprocket (rear bank).
f. Tensioner pulley.
g. Crankshaft pulley.
h. Idler pulley.
*Since the camshaft sprockets turn easily,
secure them with box wrenches when in-
stalling the timing belt.
25. Align all timing marks on the crankshaft and
raise the tensioner pulley against the belt to remove
slack, snug tensioner bolt.
26. Check the alignment of all the timing marks
and remove the clips that secure the timing belt to the
camshaft sprockets.
27. Rotate the engine 1/4 turn counterclockwise,
then rotate the engine clockwise to align the timing
marks. Check that all the timing marks are in align-
ment.
28. Loosen the center bolt on the tensioner pul-
ley.
29. Using tool MD998752 or equivalent and a
torque wrench, apply 84 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) to the tool
on the tensioner. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 35 ft.
Ibs. (49 Nm) and be sure the tensioner does not ro-
tate with the bolt. 30. Rotate the crankshaft two complete turns
clockwise and let it sit for approximately five minutes.
Then, check that the set pin can easily be inserted
and removed from the hole in the auto-tensioner.
31. Remove the set wire attached to the auto-ten-
sioner
32. Measure the auto-tensioner protrusion (the
distance between the tensioner arm and auto-ten-
sioner body) to ensure that it is within 0.15-0.18 in.
(3.8-4.5mm). If out of specification, repeat adjust-
ment procedure until the specified value is obtained.
33. Check again that the timing marks on all
sprockets are in proper alignment.
34. Install the timing belt covers and all other ap-
plicable components.
3.51 Engine
p See Figure 187
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or
cooling system when hot; serious burns can
occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also,
when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
giycoi antifreeze and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal in suffi-
cient quantities. Always drain coolant into a
sealable container. Coolant should be reused
unless it is contaminated or is several years
old.
3. Remove the drive belts.
4. Remove the upper radiator shroud.
5. Remove the fan and fan pulley.
6. Without disconnecting the lines, remove the
power steering pump from its bracket and position it
to the side Remove the pump brackets.
7. Remove the belt tensioner pulley bracket.
8. Without releasing the refrigerant, remove the
air conditioning compressor from its bracket and po-
sition it to the side.
9. Remove the bracket.
Timing marks
liming marks
Tinning marks
79245934 Fig. 187 Clean the timing marks to verify their position when aligning-3.51 engine
10. Remove the cooling fan bracket.
11, On some vehicles It may be necessary to re-
move the pulley from the crankshaft to access the
lower cover bolts.
12. Remove the timing belt cover bolts and the
upper and lower covers from the engme.
13. Detach the crankshaft position sensor con-
nector
14. Using SST MB9g67-01 and MD998754, or
their equivalents, remove the crankshaft pulley from
the crankshaft.
15. Use a shop rag to clean the timing marks to
assist in properly aligning the timing marks.
16. Loosen the center bolt on the tension pulley
and remove the timing belt.
@if the same timing belt will be reused,
mark the direction of timing belt’s rotation,
for installation in the same direction. Be sure
engine is positioned so No. 1 cylinder is at
the TDC of it’s compression stroke and the
sprockets timing marks are aligned with the
engine’s timing mark indicators.
17. Remove the auto-tensioner, the tension pul-
ley and the tension arm assembly.
18. Remove the sprockets by holding the hexago-
nal portion of the camshaft with a wrench while re-
moving the sprocket bolt.
To install: 19. Install the crankshaft pulley and turn the
crankshaft sprocket timing mark forward (clockwise)
three teeth to move the piston slightly past No. 1
cylinder top dead center.
20. If removed, install the camshaft sprockets and
tighten the bolts to 64 ft. Ibs. (88 Nm).
21, Align the timing mark of the left bank side
camshaft sprocket.
22. Align the timing mark of the right bank side
camshaft sprocket, and hold the sprocket with a
wrench so that it doesn’t turn.
23. Set the timing belt onto the water pump pul-
ley.
24. Check that the camshaft sprocket timing mark
of the left bank side is aligned and clamp the timing
belt with double clips.
25. Set the timing belt onto the idler pulley.
if any binding is felt when adjusting the tim-
ing belt tension by turning the crankshaft,
STOP turning the engine, because the pis-
tons may be hitting the valves.
26. Turn the crankshaft one turn counterclock-
wise and set the timing belt onto the crankshaft
sprocket.
27. Set the timing belt on the tension pulley.
28. Place the tension pulley pin hole so that it is
towards the top. Press the tension pulley onto the
timing belt, and then provisionally tighten the fixing
bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm).
29. Slowly turn the crankshaft two full turns in the
clockwise direction until the timing marks align. Re-
move the four double clips.
30. Install the crankshaft position sensor connec-
tor.
31. Install the upper and lower covers on the en-
gine and secure them with the retaining screws. Be
sure the packing is properly positioned in the inner
grooves of the covers when installing.

ENGlNEANDENGlNEOVERHALiL 3-51
:ig. 203 Camshaft, rocker arm and shaft assemblies-2.41 engine 9315393'
Intake side Exhaust side
7923PG57 Fig. 204 Camshaft identification-2.41 en-
gine
9. Remove the intake and exhaust camshafts.
10. Remove the rocker arms and lash adjusters
*It is essential that all parts be kept in the
same order and orientation for reinstallation.
In order to prevent confusion during installa-
tion, be sure to mark and separate all parts.
To install:
11. Install the lash adjusters and rocker arms into
the cylinder head. Lubricate lightly with clean oil
prior to installation.
12. Lubricate the camshafts with heavy engine oil
and position the camshafts on the cylinder head.
13 Check the camshaft journals and lobes for
wear or damage. Also, check the cylinder head oil
holes for clogging. Visually inspect the rocker arm
roller and replace if dented, damaged or evidence of
seizure is evident. Check the roller for smooth rota-
tion. Replace If excess play or binding is present.
Also, inspect the valve contact surface for possible
damage or seizure. It is recommended that all rocker
arms and lash adjusters be replaced together.
*Do not confuse the intake camshaft with
the exhaust camshaft. The intake camshaft
has a split on the rear face for driving the ,
crank angle sensor.
14. Make sure the dowel pin on both camshaft
sprocket ends are located on the top.
15. Install the bearing caps. Tighten the caps in
sequence and rn 2 or 3 steps. No 2 and 5 caps are of
the same shape. Check the markings on the caps to
identify the cap number and intake/exhaust symbol. Only 1 (intake) or I? (exhaust) is stamped on No. 1
bearing cap Also, make sure the rocker arm is cor-
rectly mounted on the lash adjuster and the valve
stem end. Torque the retaining bolts to 15 ft. Ibs. (20
Nm).
16. Apply a coating of engine oil to the oil seal.
Using the proper size driver, press-fit the seal into
the cylinder head.
17. Install the camshaft sprockets. While holding
the camshaft at its hexagon, between number 2 and 3
journals tighten sprocket bolts to 58-72 ft. Ibs.
(80-l 00 Nm).
18. Install the timing belt, covers and related
components.
19. Install the valve cover, using new gasket, and
reconnect all related components
20. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
3.OL DOHC Engine
# See Figures 205 and 206
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove the intake manifold plenum.
4. Remove the timing belt cover and the timing
belt.
DO NOT rotate the crankshaft or camshafts
after the timing belt has been removed. If ro-
tated, severe internal engine damage will re-
sult from the pistons hitting the valves.
5. Remove the center cover, breather, PCV
hoses, and the spark plug cables.
6. Remove the rocker cover and the semi-circu-
lar packing.
7. Matchmark the position of the crankshaft po-
sition sensor at the rear of the camshaft, then remove
the sensor.
8. If equipped with a camshaft sensor, remove
the sensor from the front of the engine.
9 Being sure to hold the flats of the camshaft,
loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts.
10. Noting the positionmg and location of the
sprockets, remove the sprockets from the camshafts.
*Be sure to note the positioning of the knock
pin at the end of the camshafts for reinstalla-
tion purposes.
*Be sure to keep the valve train components
labeled and in proper order for reassembly.
11. Loosen the bearing cap bolts in 2-3 steps.
12. Label and remove all camshaft bearing caps.
*If the bearing caps are difficult to remove,
use a plastic hammer to gently tap the com-
ponents.
13. Mark the components and remove the intake
and the exhaust camshafts.
14. Remove the rocker arms and the lash ad-
justers. Be sure to note the location of the valve train
components for reinstallation purposes.
1 semblies-3.01 DOHC engine
I
Left bank
7923PG58 Fig. 206 Proper positioning of the camshaft knock pins-3.01 DOHC engine

3-56 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
,
F C
F
t
. Fig.
220 Example of a badly deteriorated ex- 1 Fig. 221 inspect flanges for gaskets that
haust pipe have deteriorated and need replacement Fig. 222 Some systems, like this one, use
)ermit exhaust fumes to seep into the passenger
:ompartment. Inspect all mounting brackets and
bangers for deterioration, some models may have
ubber O-rings that can be overstretched and non-
supportive. These components will need to be re-
Ilaced if found. It has always been a practice to use a
)ointed tool to poke up into the exhaist system
vhere the deterioration spots are to see whether or
d they crumble. Some models may have heat shield
:overing certain parts of the exhaust system , it will
te necessary to remove these shields to have the ex-
laust visible for inspection also. Before removing any component of the exhaust
system, ALWAYS squirt a Liquid rust dissolving agent
onto the fasteners for ease of removal. A lot of
knuckle skin will be saved by following this rule. It
may even be wise to spray the fasteners and allow
them to sit overniqht.
Flange Type
b See Figure 224 tractor, which oflen means removal of the manifold it
self. Next, disconnect the component from the
mounting; slight twisting and turning may be re-
quired to remove the component completely from thr
vehicle. You may need to tap on the component with
a rubber mallet to loosen it. If all else fails, use a
hacksaw to sep; arate the parts. An oxy-acetylene cut-
ting torch may I 3e faster but the sparks are OANGER-
OUS near the fuel tank, ant 1 at the very least, acci-
dents could happen, result ing in damage to the
under-car parts, not to mei ition yourself.
3EPLACEMEMT
1 See Figure 223
There are basically two types of exhaust systems.
)ne is the flange type where the component ends are
attached with bolts and a gasket in-between. The
)ther exhaust system is the slip joint type. These
:omponents slip into one another using clamps to
iold them together. Do NOT perform exhaust repairs or inspec-
tion with the engine or exhaust hot. Allow the
system to cool completely before attempting
any work. Exhaust systems are noted for
sharp edges, flaking metal and rusted bolts.
Gloves and eye protection are required. A
healthy supply of penetrating oil and
rags is
highly recommended. Never spray liquid rust
dissolving agent onto a hot exhaust compo-
nent. Slip Joint Type
V See Figure 225
Before removing any component on the slip joint
type exhaust system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid rust
dissolving agent onto the fasteners for ease of re-
moval. Start by unbolting the exhaust piece at both
ends (if required). When unbolting the headpipe fron
the manifold, make sure that the bolts are free before
trying to remove them. if you snap a stud in the ex-
haust manifold. the stud will have to be removed wit1
Before removing any component on a flange type
system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid rust dissolving agent a bolt extractor, which often means removal of the
._ manifold itself. Next. remove the mountina U-bolts
liiow the exhaust system to cool sufficiently
Iefore spraying a solvent exhaust fasteners.
Some solvents are highly flammable and
:ould ignite when sprayed on hot exhauti
:omponents. onto the fasteners for ease of removal. Start by un-
bolting the exhaust piece at both ends (if required).
When unbolting the headpipe from the manifold,
make sure that the bolts are free before trying to re-
move them. if you snap a stud in the exhaust mani-
fold, the stud will have to be removed with a bolt ex-
ka3p70 Fig. 223 Nuts and bolts will be extremely
difflcuit to remove when deteriorated with
rust Fig. 224 Example of a flange type exhaust
system joint from around the exhaust pipe you are ext&ting from
the vehicle. Don’t be surprised if the U-bolts break
while removing the nuts. Loosen the exhaust pipe
from any mounting brackets retaining it to the floor
pan and separate the components.
Fig. 225 Example of a common slip joini
type system

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-57
Anything that generates heat and/or friction WIII
eventually burn or wear out (for example, a light bulb
generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With
this in mind, a running engine generates tremendous
amounts of both; friction is encountered by the mov-
ing and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is
created by friction and combustion of the fuel How-
ever, the engine has systems designed to help reduce
the effects of heat and friction and provide added
longevrty. The oiling system reduces the amount of
friction encountered by the moving parts inside the
engine, while the cooling system reduces heat cre-
ated by friction and combustion If either system is
not maintained, a break-down will be inevitable.
Therefore, you can see how regular maintenance can
affect the service life of your vehicle, If you do not
drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the
proper intervals, deposits WIII begin to accumulate in
the radiator, thereby reducing the amount of heat it
can extract from the coolant The same applies to
your oil and filter; If it is not changed often enough it
becomes laden with contaminates and is unable to
properly lubricate the engine. This increases friction
and wear.
There are a number of methods for evaluating the
condition of your engine. A compression test can re-
veal the condition of your pistons, piston rings,
cylinder bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve
seats. An oil pressure test can warn you of possible
engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessrve oil
consumption, evidence of oil in the engine air intake
area and/or bluish smoke from the tailpipe may indi-
cate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or
valve seals. As a general rule, an engine that uses no
more than one quart of oil every 1000 miles is in
good condition. Engines that use one quart of oil or
more in less than 1000 miles should first be checked
for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present, have them
fixed before determining how much oil is consumed
by the engine, especrally if blue smoke is not visible
at the tailpipe
COMPRESSION TEST
# See Figure 226
tccs3801 Fig. 226 A screw-in type compression gauge
is more accurate and easier to use without
an assistant
A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil
consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured
over an extended period are all indicators of internal
engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn
cylinder bores, blown head gaskets, sticking or burnt
valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits.
A check of each cylinders compression WIII help lo-
cate the problem.
*A screw-in type compression gauge is
more accurate than the type you simply hold
against the spark plug hole. Although it takes
slightly longer to use, it’s worth the effort to
obtain a more accurate reading.
1 Make sure that the proper amount and vis-
cosity of engine oil is in the crankcase, then ensure
the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operating
temperature, then shut the engine
OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug
wires from the plugs,
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head area
around the spark plug ports, then remove the spark
plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-
open throttle) position You can block the accelerator
linkage open for this, or you can have an assistant
fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge
into the No. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.
Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug
hole.
8. According to the tool manufacturers instruc-
tions, connect a remote starting switch to the starting
circuit.
9. With the ignition switch in the
OFF position,
use the remote starting switch to crank the engine
through at least five compression strokes (approxi-
mately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest
reading on the gauge
10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the
engine approximately the same number of compres-
sion strokes and/or time as the first.
11. Compare the hrghest readings from each
cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compres-
sion pressures are considered within specifications if
the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the
pressure recorded for the highest reading cylinder
For example, if your highest reading cylinder pres-
sure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75 percent of that
would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading
cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low com-
pression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine
oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and
repeat the compression test. If the compression rises
after adding oil, it means that the cylinder’s piston
rings and/or cylinder bore are damaged or worn, If
the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seat-
ing properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gas-
ket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addi-
tion of oil doesn’t help raise compression, there is
leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the
combustion chamber, combined with blue or con-
stant white smoke from the tailpipe, are symptoms of
this problem. However, don’t be alarmed by the nor-
mal white smoke emitted from the tailpipe during en-
gine warm-up or from cold weather driving. There
may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dip-
stick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a
head gasket is blown.
OIL PRESSURETEST
Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit
passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil
pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory
Installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer may
also be needed, as some specifications may require
running the engine at a specific rpm.
1. With the engine cold, locate and remove the oil
pressure sending unit.
2. Followrng the manufacturers instructions,
connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and, if nec-
essary, a tachometer to the engine.
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4 Check the oil pressure reading when cold and
record the number. You may need to run the engine
at a specified rpm, so check the specifications,
5. Run the engine until normal operating temper-
ature is reached (upper radiator hose will feel warm)
6. Check the oil pressure reading again with the
engine hot and record the number. Turn the engine
OFF. 7. Compare your hot oil pressure reading to that
given in the chart If the reading is low, check the
cold pressure reading against the chart. If the cold
pressure IS well above the specification, and the hot
reading was lower than the specification, you may
have the wrong viscosity oil in the engine. Change
the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and
quantity, then repeat the test.
Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to
internal component wear, pump related problems, a
low oil level, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil
pressure readings could be caused by an overfilled
crankcase, too htgh of an oil viscosity or a faulty
pressure relief valve.
Now that you have determined that your engine is
worn out, you must make some decisions. The ques-
tion of whether or not an engine IS worth rebuilding
is largely a subjective matter and one of personal
worth. Is the engine a popular one, or IS it an obso-
lete model? Are parts available? Will it get acceptable
gas mileage once It is rebuilt? Is the car its being put
into worth keeping? Would it be less expensive to
buy a new engine, have your engine rebuilt by a pro,
rebuild it yourself or buy a used engine from a sal-
vage yard? Or would It be simpler and less expensive
to buy another car? If you have considered all these
matters and more, and have still decided to rebuild
the engine, then it is time to decide how you will re-
build it.