1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE parking brake

I-4 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 12 A screw-in type compression gauge- Fig. 13 A vacuum/pressure tester is neces-
is recommended for compression testing sary for many testing procedures
Fig. 14 Most modern automotive multime-
ters incorporate many helpful features
your workbench. Some useful household items are: a
large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee cans and
ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape
for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging lines
or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for
plugging vacuum lines), metal coat hangers or a roll
of mechanic’s wire (to hold things out of the way),
dental pick or similar long, pointed probe, a strong
magnet, and a small mirror (to see into recesses and
under manifolds).
A more advanced set of tools, suitable for tune-up
work, can be drawn up easily. While the tools are
lmvl Fig. 15 Proper information is vital, so at
ways have a Chiiton Total Car Care manua
handy
l Feeler aauoes for valve adiustment
* Timing-light.
The choice of a timing fight should be made
carefully. A light which works on the DC current
supplied by the vehicle’s battery is the best choice;
it should have a xenon tube for brightness. On any
vehicle with an electronic ignition system, a timing
light with an inductive pickup that clamps around
the No. 1 spark plug cable is preferred.
In addition to these basic tools, there are several
other tools and gauges you may find useful. These
include:
l Compression gauge. The screw-in type is
slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a
fauliy reading due to escaping pressure.
l Manifold vacuum gauge. l 12V test light. l A combination volt/ohmmeter l induction Ammeter. This is used for determin-
ing whether or not there is current in a wire. These
are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in a
wiring harness.
As a final note, vou will orobablv find a torque
wrench necessary for all but the most basic work.
The beam type models are perfectly adequate, al-
though the newer click types (breakaway) are easier
to use. The click type torque wrenches tend to be
more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of
torque wrenches should be periodically checked
and/or recalibrated. You will have to decide for your-
self which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.
ilightly more sophisticated, they need not be outra-
feously expensive. There are several inexpensive
achldwell meters on the market that are every bit as
Toad for the average mechanic as a professional
nodel. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500
pm on the tach scale and that it works on 4,6 and 8-
:ylinder engines. The key to these purchases is to
nake them with an eye towards adaptability and wide
ange. A basic list of tune-up tools could include:
l Tach/dwell meter. l Spark plug wrench and gapping tool. Normally, the use of special factory tools is
avoided for repair procedures, since these are not
readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
When it is possible to perform the job with more
commonly available tools, it will be pointed out, but
occasionally, a special tool was designed to perform
a specific function and should be used. Before sub-
stituting another tool, you should be convinced that
neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle
will be compromised.
Special tools can usually be purchased from an
automotive parts store or from your dealer. In some
cases special tools may be available directly from the
tool manufacturer.
p See Figures 16, 17, 16, and 19
It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the haz-
ards involved with automotive maintenance and ser-
vice, but care and common sense will prevent most
accidents.
The rules of safety for mechanics range from “don’t
smoke around gasoline,” to “use the proper tool(s) for
the job.” The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop
safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.
Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit
l handy.
Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cut- l ting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have
20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vi-
sion, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses.
l Do shield your eyes whenever you work around
the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of
contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water
or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek im-
mediate medical attention.
l Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any un-
dervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles;
jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays
raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the
vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the
ground and set the parking brake.
l Do use adequate ventilation when working
with any chemicals or hazardous materials, Like car-
bon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from
some brake lining wear can be hazardous in suffi-
cient quantities.
l Do disconnect the negative battery cable when
working on the electrical system. The secondary ig- nition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLT-
AGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts.
l Do follow manufacturer’s directions whenever
working with potentially hazardous materials. Most
chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken inter-
nally.
l Do properly maintain your tools. Loose ham-
merheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed
or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively
worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end),
cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight
sockets can cause accidents.
* Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy
wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and
often harming your knuckles in the process.
l Do use the proper size and type of tool for the
job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the
nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight,
not cocked.

1-6 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 16 Screwdrivers should be kept in good
:ondition to prevent injury or damage which
:ould result it the blade slips from the screw
0
0
PP tccs1022 Fig. 16 Using the correct size wrench will
help prevent the possibility of rounding off
a nut
7
lwo.WIRE CouDuClOR TMREE-WIRE CONO”CTOI
MIRD WIRE GROUNDING GROUNDING TNRU
THE CASE A CmxlIT
.
i$Y$$pQ
p-+
TNHREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR
ONE WIRE TO 4 GROUND GROUNOlNG TMRU
AN ADAPTER PLUG
tccm21
Fig. 17 Power tools should always be prop-
erly grounded
Fig. 19 NEVER work under a vehicle unless it
is supported using safety stands (jackstands)
l Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle l Do set the parking brake and block the drive
rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to pre-
vent a fall. wheels if the work requires a running engine.
l Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are
tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that
the force is on the side of the fixed jaw.
l Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glanc-
ing blows. l Don’t run the engine in a garage or anywhere
else without proper ventilation-EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave
the human body and you can build up a deadly sup-
ply of it in your system by simply breathing in a !ittle
every day. You may not realize you are slowly poi-
soning yourself. Always use power vents, windows,
fans and/or open the garage door.
l Don’t work around moving parts while wearing
loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than
long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene
soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slip-
pery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt
buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not
safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be
tied back under a hat or cap.
l Don’t use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump
can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a
rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around
a spinning shaft or fan.
l Don’t smoke when working around gasoline,
cleaning solvent or other flammable material.
l Don’t smoke when workrng around the battery.
When the battery is being charged, it gives off explo-
sive hydrogen gas.
l Don’t use gasoline to wash your hands; there
are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dan-
gerous additives which can enter the body through a
cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all
the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands
will suck up oil and grease.
l Don’t service the air conditioning system un-
less you are equipped with the necessary tools and
trainmg. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant
is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb
heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze
anything it touches.
l Don’t use screwdrivers for anything other than
driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool
can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries.
At the very least, you’ll ruin a good screwdriver.
. Don’t use an emergency jack (that little ratchet,
scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehi-
cle) for anything other than changing a flat! These
jacks are only Intended for emergency use out on the
road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If
you are serious about mamtaining your vehicle your-
self, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1%
ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands.
sion which can increase the torque necessary to proper installation and safe operation of the vehicle
achieve the desired clamp load for which that fastener afterwards.
was originally selected. Additionally, be sure that the Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt
p See Figures 20, 21, 22, and 23 driver surface of the fastener has not been compro- or stud’s thread. Most automotive and hardware
mised by rounding or other damage. In some cases a stores keep gauges available to help you select the
Although there are a great variety of fasteners found driver surface may become only partially rounded, al- proper size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or
in the modern car or truck, the most commonly used lowing the driver to catch in only one direction. In bolt for a thread gauge. If the bolt you are replacing is
retainer is the threaded fastener (nuts, bolts, screws, many of these occurrences, a fastener may be in- not too badly damaged, you can select a match by
studs, etc.). Most threaded retainers may be reused, stalled and tightened, but the driver would not be able finding another bolt which will thread in its place. If
provided that they are not damaged in use or during to grip and loosen the fastener again. (This could lead you find a nut which threads properly onto the dam-
the repair. Some retainers (such as stretch bolts or J to frustration down the line should that component aged bolt, then use that nut to help select the replace-
torque prevailing nuts) are designed to deform when ever need to be disassembled again). ment bolt If however, the bolt you are replacing is so
tightened or in use and should not be reinstalled. If you must replace a fastener, whether due to de- badly damaged (broken or drilled out) that its threads
Whenever possible, we will note any special re- sign or damage, you must ALWAYS be sure to use cannot be used as a gauge, you might start by look-
tainers which should be replaced during a procedure. the proper replacement In all cases, a retainer of the ing for another bolt (from the same assembly or a
But you should always inspect the condition of a re- same design, material and strength should be used. similar location on your vehicle) which will thread
tainer when It is removed and replace any that show Markings on the heads of most bolts will help deter- into the damaged bolt’s mounting. If so, the other bolt
signs of damage. Check all threads for rust or corro- mine the proper strength of the fastener. The same
can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be used
material, thread and pitch must be selected to assure
to select the replacement bolt.

.
1-26 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the
piston WIII be at the beginning of the power stroke
just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture
forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Be-
cause it takes a fraction of a second for the spark
plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark
plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC.
Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited
as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the
explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of
crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC
(BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10”
BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before
each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, how-
ever, when the engine is at idle speed. The combus-
tion process must be complete by 23”ATDC to main-
tain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and
low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go
faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even
sooner if it IS to be completely ignited when the pis-
ton reaches TDC. If the ignition is set too far ad-
vanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel
in the cylinder wtll occur too soon and tend to force
the piston down while it is still traveling up. Thus
causes pre ignition or “knockmg and pinging”. If the
ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC
(ATDC), the piston will have already started on its
way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be
forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting
in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of
the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks
on the pulley correspond to the posrtion of the piston
in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) tim-
ing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug
wrre. Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light
flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while
the engine is running, the exact position of the piston
within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of
light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be
standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the
mark and scale are in specified alignment.
When checking timing with the engine run-
ning, take care not to get the timing light
wires tangled in the tan blades and/or drive
belts.
INSPECTION &ADJUSTMENT
1990-96 Models
e See Figures 113 thru 119
1. Set the parking brake, start and run the engine
until normal operating temperature is obtained. Keep
all lights and accessories OFF and the front wheels
straight-ahead. Place the transaxle in
P for automatic
transaxle or Neutral for manual transaxle.
2. If not at specification, set the idle speed to the
correct level.
3. Turn the engine
OFF. Remove the water-
proof cover from the igmtion timing adjusting con-
nector, and connect a jumper wire from this terminal
Fig. 113 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1990-92 Mirage with 1.5L engine
93151QM Fig. 115 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nectar-Galant with 2.OL engines
93151QO1 Fig. 117 Ignition timing adjustment con.
nectar-1994-96 Galant
to a good ground. Refer to the corresponding illustra-
tions for the correct location of the timing adjustment
connector.
4. Connect a conventional power timing light to
the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire. Start the engine
and run at idle.
5. Aim the timing light at the timing scale lo-
cated near the crankshaft pulley.
6. Loosen the distributor or crank angle sensor
hold-down nut just enough so the housing can be ro-
tated.
7. Turn the housing in the proper direction until
the specified timing is reached. Tighten the hold-
down nut and recheck the timing. Turn the engine
OFF. 8. Remove the jumper wire from the ignition
timing adjusting terminal and install the water-proof
cover.
9. Start the engine and check the actual timing
(the timing without the terminal grounded). This
reading should be approximately 5 degrees more
than the basic timing. Actual timing may increase ac-
cording to altitude. Also, actual timing may fluctuate
because of slight variation accomplished by the ECU.
Fig. 114 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nectar-Miracle with 1.6L enaine
CHECK CONNECTOR 93151QO! Fig. 116 Ignition timing adjustment con.
nectar-1992-96 Oiamante
93151gOB Fig. 116 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1993-96 Mirage with 1.5L engine
Fig. 119 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1993-96 Mirage with 1.6L engine
As long as the basic timing is correct, the engine is
timed correctly.
10. Turn the engine
OFF. 11. Disconnect the timing apparatus and
tachometer.
1997-00 Models
The ignition timing is controlled by the Engine
Control Module (ECM) and is not adjustable. How-
ever it can be inspected using a scan tool.

.
l-36 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Install the drain plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs.
(304Nm)
5. Refill the transaxle to the proper level, as
shown in the Capacities chart, with the appropriate
fluid. The oil level should be at the bottom of the oil
filler hole. I
6. When the oil reaches the orooer level, install
the filler plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm).
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
8957i565 Fig, 165 Oil, when at the proper level, will
reach the lower edge of tC=+ frfr*r u*rn -non-
ing Mitsubishi recommends the use of Mercon@auto-
matic transmission fluid.
LEVELCHECK
Fig. 170 The fluid level is OK if it is within
the between the HOT and ADD areas on the
&&i& Do not overfill the transaxle or
-.*".."... -- .*"- problems could o ccur
1. Makesure the vehicle is oarked on a level sur-
face.
2. Remove the filler plug and make sure the oil
level is up to the lower edge of the filler plug hole.
3. Check to be sure that the transaxle oil is not
noticeably dirty and that it has a suitable viscosity. u See Figures 168,169, and 170
fluid is at normal operating temperature, drive the ve- The transaxle dipstick is located behind the air in-
hicle at least 10 miles. let hose, towards the firewall.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The transaxle should be at normal operating
temperature when checking fluid level. To ensure the 5. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it
horizontally, road the fluid level. The fkrid should be
between the MIN and MAX mark. If the fluid is below
the MIN mark, add fluid through the dipstick tube.
DRAIN & REFILL
6. Insert the dipstick, and check the level again
after adding any fluid. Be careful not to overfill the
transaxle.
3. With the selector lever in P and the parking
DRAIN & REFILL u See Figures 166 and 167
1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a level sur-
face.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Place a brake applied, start the engine.
4. Open the hood and locate the transaxle fluid
dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean,
and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully in-
serted.
suitable drain pan under the manual transaxle.
3. Remove the filler plug and the drain plug and
allow the oil to drain completely.
Fig. 166 The automatic transaxle dipstick is
typically located under the air cleaner inlet
Fig. 166 Use a box-end wrench to loosen
the manual transaxle drain plug . . . tube. Pull the dipstick up to remove it from
the transaxle
Fig. 169 Wipe the dipstick clean and Insert
/fluid level reading ., it mto the transaxle agam to get the correct
j The fluid should be changed according to the
schedule in the Maintenance Intervals chart. If the car
is normally used in severe service, such as stop and
start driving, trailer towing, or the like, the interval
should be halved. If the car is driven under especially
nasty conditions, such as in heavy city traffic where
the temperature normally reaches 90°F (32%), or in
very hilly or mountainous areas, or in police, taxi, or b See Figures 171 thru 177
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle
drain plug.
3. Remove the transaxle pan drain plug. Let the
fluid completely drain out of the transaxle.
4. Install the drain plug and tighten it to 22-25 ft.
lbs. (30-35 Nm).
5. If equipped, remove the drain plug on the dif-
ferential of the transaxle.
6. Install the differential drain plug and tighten ft
to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm).
7. Remove the drain pan.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Fill the transaxle through the dipstick to the
proper level.
10. Place the gear selector lever in P and start the
engine. Run the engine at idle, engage the emergency
brake and hold the brake pedal down. Move the gear
selector lever through all transaxle ranges for approx-
imately 5 minutes.
11. Return the selector lever to P and leave the
engine running at idle.
12. Check the transaxle fluid level. The fluid level
at normal operating temperature should read within
the crosshatched area of the fluid level dipstick.
13. If the fluid level reads below the crosshatched
area, adjust the level by adding fluid in small incre-
ments until the correct fluid level is obtained.
PAN &FILTER SERVICE
b See Figures 178 thru 184

t
1-38 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
11 I Add the recommended automatic transaxle
fluid to the transaxle through the dipstick tube. You
will need a long necked funnel, or a funnel and tube
to do this. A quick check of the capacities chart later
in this Section will reveal the capacity of the transaxle
in your vehicle. On a first fill after removing the pan
and filter, this number should be cut into a ‘hand
checked on the dipstick before refilling.
12. With the transaxle in P, put on the parking
brake, block the front wheels, start the engine and let
it idle. DO NOT RACE THE ENGINE. DO NOT MOVE
THE LEVER THROUGH ITS RANGES.
13. With the lever in Park, check the fluid level. If
it’s OK, take the car out for a short drive, park on a
level surface, and check the level again, as outlined
earlier in this section. Add more fluid if necessary. Be
careful not to overfill, which will cause foaming and
w fluid loss. n of the transfer case filler
3. Remove the filler and the drain plug and allow
the oil to drain into the drain pan.
4. After the fluid has drained completely, install
the drain plug and tighten to 24 ft. Ibs. (32 Nm).
5. Refill the transfer case to the proper level with
Fig. 184 . . .
the transaxle case before in-
stalling the gasket
and pan onto the case FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS Hypoid gear oil SAE 75W-85W/75W-9OW conform-
ing to API specifications GL-4 or higher. The oil level
-‘-,*I’ -nnnh +‘* “%om edge of the oil filler hole.
nxfer raw filler nlm and tinhtm When adding fluid or refilling the transfer case,
use Hypoid gear oil SAE 75W-85W or 75W-9OW
conforming to API specifications 61-4 or higher.
LEVELCHECK 6. Install the tra .._._. ____ .._. T.-J _.._ .lJ . .._..
to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
u See Figure 185
, 1 FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
delivery service, the fluid should be changed accord-
ing to the severe service schedule.
The fluid must be hot before it is drained; a 20 u See Figure 187
Since fluid viscosity range may
vary depending on
specific temperature range of operation, please refer
~~
tne transaxle case.
You’ll be very sorry later if you do. bottom edge of the transfer case filler 1 1 Fig. 187 Rear axle lubricant application I
*If the drained fluld is discolored (brown or
1 plug hole chart black), thick, or pmmll~ hmmt nnrinmm I transaxle trouble .llln3llU ““III., url,““P s, probably due to overheat-
,r..rr,rA “#.a.- rrdr
trig, should be susp~~lr;u. lvUl vLlr J
transaxle should be inspected by a reliable
transaxle specialist to determine the prob-
lem.
5. Remove the pan and gasket.
6. Clean the pan with solvent and allow it to air
dry. If you use a rag to wipe out the pan, you risk
leaving bits of lint behind, which will clog the dinky
hydraulic passages in the bansaxle.
7. Remove the filter retaining bolts and remove
the filter from the valve bodv. lnsoect each component for leaking. Check the oil
he filler plug. If the oil is contami-
ry to replace it with new oil.
if% nn IPVPI z11rf2r~
level by removing t
nated, it is necessa
1. Park the vehi,., -.. ,-.“, __. ,“-_.
2. Remove the filler plug and make sure the oil
level reaches the lower edge of the filler plug hole.
3. Check to be sure that the oil is not noticeably
dirty and that it has the proper viscosity.
4. If necessary, add oil through the filler hole until
is runs out of the hole. to the accompanying chart for the proper fluid for
your vehicle.
LEVEL CHECK
1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on level
ground.
2. Remove the oil fill plug to check the oil level.
3. The oil level is sufficient if it reaches the lower
portion of the filler plug hole. If the fluid is low, add
as required through the filler plug.
To install: .
8. Install a new filter, then install the retaining
bolts and tighten them to 5 ft. Ibs. (7 Nm).
9. Position the gasket on the pan, then install
the pan. Tighten the bolts evenly and in rotation to
8-9ft. Ibs. (10-12 Nm.). Do not overtighten.
IO. Lower the vehicle. DRAIN & REFILL
I8 DRAIN & REFILL
u See Figure 188 ) See Figure- 14
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, for access
to the transfer case.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the transfer
case fluid drain plug. 1. Position the vehicle on a flat surface or raise
and safely support the vehicle in a level position.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the rear axle.

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE 1-45
SLING TYPE
WHEEL LIFT TYPE
cles
SUNG TYPE
WHEEL LIFT TYPE
FLAT BED TYPE
Fig. 220 Rear towing position-FWD vehi
cles
personal injury. Remember that batteries contain a
small amount of explosive hydrogen gas which is a
by-product of battery charging. Sparks should always
be avoided when working around batteries, especially
when attaching jumper cables. To minimize the pos-
sibility of accidental sparks, follow the procedure
carefully.
NEVER hook the batteries up in a series cir-
cuit or the entire electrical system will go up
in smoke. includino the starter!
Vehicles equipped with a diesel engine may utilize
two 12 volt batteries. If so, the batteries are con-
nected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to posi-
tive terminal, negative terminal to negative terminal).
owrng methods
a tow truck IS used
Lrftrng method for 4 wheels-Good
Front wheels lifted-No good
Front wheels lifted-No good
Rear wheels lifted-No good
Towing by rope or cable-Good
e9571g92 qemarks
. For4WD models, the basic principle is that
all four wheels are to be rarsed before
towing.
. The shift lever should be set to 1 st gear and
the parking brake should be applied.
l The vehicle must not be towed by tofacing
only its front wheels or only the rear wheels
on a rollino dollv, because to do so will
result in d&e&ration of the visfx~s
coupling and result in the viscous coupling
causing the vehicle to jump forward
suddenly.
l If only the front wheels or only the rear
wheels are lifted for towing, the bumper
wrll bedamyd.
In addrtron. II trng of the rear wheels causes
the or1 to flow forward. and may result in
heat damage to the rear bushing of the
transfer, and so should never be done.
l The front and rear wheels must rotate
normally.
l The various mechanisms must function
normally.
l The shift lever must be set to the neutral
~Asi&n and the ignition key must be set to
Fig. 221 Towing instructions-AWD models
Hooking the batteries up in parallel circuit increases
battery cranking power without increasing total bat-
tery voltage output. Output remains at 12 volts. On
the other hand, hooking two 12 volt batteries up in a
series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal,
positive terminal to negative terminal) increases total
battery output to 24 volts (12 volts plus 12 volts).
l Be sure that both batteries are of the same volt-
age. Vehicles covered by this manual and most vehi-
cles on the road today utilize a 12 volt charging sys-
tem.
l Be sure that both batteries are of the same po-
larity (have the same terminal, in most cases NEGA-
TIVE grounded).
l Be sure that the vehicles are not touching or a
short could occur.
l On serviceable batteries, be sure the vent cap
holes are not obstructed.
l Do not smoke or allow sparks anywhere near
the batteries.
l In cold weather, make sure the battery elec-
trolyte is not frozen, This can occur more readily in a
battery that has been in a state of discharge.
l Do not allow electrolyte to contact your skin or
clothing.
1. Make sure that the voltages of the 2 batteries
are the same. Most batteries and charging systems
are of the 12 volt variety.
MAKE CONNECTIONS IN NUMERICAL ORDER
A FIRST JUMPER CABLE
WITH CHARGED BATTERY
-
lccslQ?,Q
Fig. 222 Connect the jumper cables to the
batteries and engine in the order shown

.
I-46 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
2. Pull the jumping vehicle (with the good bat-
tery) into a position so the jumper cables can reach
the dead battery and that vehicle’s engine. Make sure
that the vehicles do NOT touch.
3. Place the transmissions/transaxles of both ve-
hicles in Neutral (MT) or P (AT), as applicable, then
firmly set their parking brakes.
*ff necessary for safety reasons, the hazard
lights on both vehicles may be operated
throughout the entire procedure without sig-
nificantiy increasing the diff icuity of jumping
the dead battery.
4. Turn all lights and accessories OFF on both
vehicles. Make sure the ignition switches on both ve-
hicles are turned to the OFF position.
5. Cover the battery cell caps with a rag, but do
not cover the terminals.
6. Make sure the terminals on both batteries are
clean and free of corrosion or proper electrical con-
nection will be impeded. If necessary, clean the bat-
tery terminals before proceeding.
7. Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) termi-
nals on both batteries.
8. Connect the first jumper cable to the positive
(t) terminal of the dead battery, then connect the
other end of that cable to the positive (t) terminal of
the booster (good) battery.
9. Connect one end of the other jumper cable to
the negative (−) terminal on the booster bat-
tery and the final cable clamp to an engine bolt head,
alternator bracket or other solid, metallic point on the
engine with the dead battery. Try to pick a ground on
the engine that is positioned away from the battery in
order to minimize the possibility of the 2 clamps
touching should one loosen during the procedure.
DO NOT connect this clamp to the negative (-) termi-
nal of the bad battery. cable on the donor battery. Disconnect the positive
cable from the donor battery and finally, disconnect
the positive cable from the formerly dead battery. Be
careful when disconnecting the cables from the posi-
tive terminals not to allow the alligator clips to touch
any metal on either vehicle or a short and sparks will
occur.
I
$ See Figures 223,224, 225,226, and 227
Your vehicle was supplied with a jack for emer-
gency road repairs. This jack is fine for changing a
flat tire or other short term procedures not requiring
you to go beneath the vehicle. If it is used in an emergency situation, carefully follow the instructions
provided either with the jack or in your owners man-
ual. Do not attempt to use the jack on any portions of
the vehicle other than specified by the vehicle manu-
facturer. Always block the diagonally opposite wheel
when using a jack.
A more convenient way of jacking is the use of a
garage or floor jack. You may use the floor jack to
raise the front of the vehicle by placing it under the
front subframe. The rear of the vehicle is most easily
raised by using the lift points on the drip rail. All
models are equipped with lift points located on the
mid- crossmember in the front and a bracket located
on the floorpan underneath the trunk.
Never place the jack under the radiator, engine or
transaxle components. Severe and expensive damage
will result when the jack is raised. Additionally, never
jack under the floorpan or
bodywork; the
metal will
Whenever you plan to work under the vehicle, you
must support it on jackstands or ramps. Never use
cinder blocks or stacks of wood to support the vehi-
cle, even if you’re only going to be under it for a few
minutes. Never crawl under the vehicle when it is
supported only by the tire-changing jack or other
*Always position a block of wood or small
rubber pad on top of the jack or jackstand to
protect the lifting point’s finish when lifting
or supporting the vehicle.
Small hydraulic, screw, or scissors jacks are satis-
factory for raising the vehicle. Drive-on trestles or
Be very careful to keep the jumper cables
away from moving parts (cooling fan, belts,
etc.) on both engines.
10. Check to make sure that the cables are routed
away from any moving parts, then start the donor ve-
hicle’s engine. Run the engine at moderate speed for
several minutes to allow the dead battery a chance to
receive some initial charge.
11. With the donor vehicle’s engine still running
slightly above idle, try to start the vehicle with the
dead battery. Crank the engine for no more than 10 &stands also on the
Fig. 225 The most practical place to place
front of the vehicle is
seconds at a time and let the starter cool for at least
20 seconds between tries. If the vehicle does not start
in 3 tries, it is likely thatsomething else is also
wrong or that the battery needs additional time to
charge.
12. Once the vehicle is started, allow it to run at
idle for a few seconds to make sure that it is operat-
ing properly.
13. Turn ON the headlights, heater blower and, if
equipped, the rear defroster of both vehicles in order
to reduce the severity of voltage spikes and subse-
quent risk of damage to the vehicles’ electrical sys-
tems when the cables are disconnected. This step is
especially important to any vehicle equipped with
computer control modules.
14. Carefully disconnect the cables in the’reverse
order of connection. Start with the negative cable that
is attached to the engine ground, then the negative Fig. 226 Place the jackstands also
subframe to support the front of the Fig. 227 All models covered by this
are equipped with lift points on t
crossmember in the front and on a

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-47
ramps are also a handy and safe way to both raise l When the drive wheels are to remain on the
and support the vehicle. Be careful though, some ground, leave the vehicle in gear to help prevent it
ramps may be too steep to drive your vehicle onto
The following safety points cannot be overempha- from rolling.
without scraping the front bottom panels. Never sup-
sized:
l Always use jackstands to support the vehicle
port the vehicle on any suspension member (unless l Always block the opposite wheel or wheels to when you are working underneath. Place the stands
specifically instructed to do so by a repair manual) or
keep the vehicle from rolling off the jack. beneath the vehrcle’s jacking brackets Before climb-
by an underbody panel.
l When raising the front of the vehicle, firmly ap- ing underneath, rock the vehicle a bit to make sure it
ply the parking brake. is firmly supported.
SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS (MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE, GALANT, & MIRAGE)
VEHICLE MILEAGE INTERVAL (x1000)
7.5 15
22.5 30 37.5 45 52.5 60 67.5 75 62.5 90 97.5
J J
J 4 J J 4 4 4 J J
J 4
4
J J J J 4 TO BE
Ball loints &steering linkage
S/I J J J
seals
Dnve belt(s) S/I 4 4 J
Fvha,,rt cvctom $/I
J J J LmI,..“w. “,YL”,‘. Fuel hoses
+
Manual transaxle oil (Galant)
connectlon & fuel tank filler
R. Replace S/I - Sefwce or Inspect FREQUENT OPERATION MAINTENANCE (SEVERE SERVICE) II a vehicle is operated under any of the following conditions it is considered severe service:
- Extremely dusty areas.
- 50% or more of the vehicle operation is in 32% (WF) or higher temperatures, or constant opsralion in
temperatures below 0% (32°F).
- Prolonged idling (vehicle operation in stop and go traffic).
_ Frequent short running periods (engine does not warm to normal operating temfwatures).
- Police, taxi, delivery usage or trailer towing usage.
0118 011 filter change-change every 3CQO miles.
Disc brake pads - sewce or Inspect ever 6COO miles
AN hlter element _ setwe or inspect every 15,000 miles.
Automatic transaxle lluld 8 filter . replace every 15,COO m&s.
Rear drum brake Ikmngs & rear wheel cylinders (Galant & Mirage)
Spark plugs (except Dlamante wlplabnum tip) - replace every 15,COO miles.
Manual transaxle 011 (mcludlng transfer (Galant & Mirage). replace every 30,000 miles.