1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE battery replacement

.
5-16 FUELSYSTEM
6. Disconnect the return hose and the high
pressure fuel hose.
7. Using special tool MB991480 or equivalent,
remove the fuel pump retaining cap and remove the
pump assembly.
Observe all applicable safety precautions
when working around fuel. Whenever servic-
ing the fuel system, always work in a well
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or
vapors to come in contact with a spark or
open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extin-
guisher near the work area. Always keep fuel
in a container specifically designed for fuel
storage; also, always properly seal fuel con-
tainers to avoid the possibility of fire or ex-
plosion.
To install:
*If the packing material is damaged or de-
formed, replace it with new packing.
8. Install the packing to the fuel tank.
9. Install the fuel pump assembly to the tank
and align the mating marks on the pump and the
floorpan.
10. Tighten the fuel pump retaining cap using
tool MB991480 or equrvalent.
11. Connect the high pressure hose, return hose
and the fuel tank wirmg.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
13. Check the fuel pump for proper pressure and
inspect the entire system for leaks.
14. Apply sealant to the access cover and install
the cover.
15. Install the rear seat cushion.
TESTING
1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
3. Disconnect the fuel hrgh pressure hose at the
delivery pipe side.
Observe all applicable safety precautions
when working around fuel. Whenever servic-
ing the fuel system, always work in a well
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or
vapors to come in contact with a spark or
open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extin-
guisher near the work area. Always keep fuel
in a container specifically designed for fuel
storage; also, always properly seal fuel con-
tainers to avoid the possibility of fire or ex-
alosion.
4. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to tools
MD998709 and MD998742 or exact equivalent, with
appropriate adapters, seals and/or gaskets to prevent
leaks during the test. Install the gauge and adapter
between the delivery pipe and high pressure hose. In-
stall carefully to prevent leaks.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Apply battery voltage to the terminal for fuel
pump activation (located in the engine compartment)
to run the fuel pump, and check for leaks.
7. Start the engine and run at curb idle speed.
8. Measure the fuel pressure and compare to
the specifications listed in the chart in Section 1.
9. Locate and disconnect the vacuum hose run-
ning to the fuel pressure regulator. Plug the end of
the hose and record the fuel pressure again. The fuel
pressure should have increased approximately IO
psi. 10. Reconnect the vacuum hose the fuel pressure
regulator. After the fuel pressure stabilizes, race the
engine 2-3 times and check that the fuel pressure
does not fall when the engine is running at idle.
il. Check to be sure there is fuel pressure in the
return hose by gently pressing the fuel return hose
with fingers while racing the engine. There will be no
fuel pressure in the return hose when the volume of
fuel flow is low.
12. If fuel pressure is too low, check for a
clogged fuel filter, a defective fuel pressure regulator
or a defective fuel pump, any of which will require re-
placement.
13. If fuel pressure is too high, the fuel pressure
regulator is defective and will have to be replaced or
the fuel return is bent or clogged. If the fuel pressure
readmg does not change when the vacuum hose is
disconnected, the hose is clogged or the valve is
stuck in the fuel pressure regulator and it will have to
be replaced.
14. Stop the engine and check for changes in the
fuel pressure gauge. It should not drop. If the gauge
reading does drop, watch the rate of drop. If fuel
pressure drops slowly, the likely cause is a leaking
injector which will require replacement. If the fuel
pressure drops immediately after the engine is
stopped, the check valve in the fuel pump isn’t clos-
ing and the fuel pump will have to be replaced.
15. Relieve fuel system pressure.
16. Disconnect the high pressure hose and re-
move the fuel pressure gauge from the delivery pipe.
17. Install a new O-ring in the groove of the high
pressure hose. Connect the hose to the delivery pipe
and tighten the screws. After Installation, apply bat-
tery voltage to the terminal for fuel pump activation to
run the fuel pump. Check for leaks.

UNDERSTANDING AND
TROUBLESHOOTING
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 6-2
BASIC ELECTRICALTHEORY 6-2
HOW DOES ELECTRICITY WORK:
THEWATERANALOGY 6-2
OHM'S LAW 6-2
ELECTRICALCOMPONENTS 6-2
POWERSOURCE 6-2
GROUND 6-3
PROTECTIVE DEVICES 6-3
SWITCHES&RELAYS 6-3
LOAD 6-3
WIRING & HARNESSES 6-3
CONNECTORS 6-4
TEST EQUIPMENT 6-4
JUMPER WIRES 6-4
TEST LIGHTS 6-4
MULTIMETERS 6-5
TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL
SYSTEMS 6-5
TESTING 6-5
OPEN CIRCUITS 6-5
SHORT CIRCUITS 6-6
VOLTAGE 6-6
VOLTAGE DROP 6-6
RESISTANCE 6-8
WIRE AND CONNECTORREPAIR 6-6
BATTERY CABLES 6-7
DISCONNECTING THE CABLES 6-7
AIR BAG (SUPPLEMENTAL
RESTRAINT SYSTEM) 6-7
GENERALINFORMATION 6-7
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 6-7
DISARMING 6-7
REARMING 6-7
HEATING AND AIR
CONDITIONING 6-7
BLOWER MOTOR 6-7
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-7
HEATER CORE 6-9 INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES 6-17
INSTRUMENTCLUSTER 6-17
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-17
GAUGES 6-18
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-18
WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-19
REARWINDOWWIPERSWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
DIMMER SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-19 .
HEADLIGHT SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-19
LIGHTING 6-19
HEADLIGHTS 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
AIMINGTHEHEADLIGHTS 6-20
SIGNAL AND MARKER LIGHTS 6-21
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-21
CIRCUIT PROTECTION 6-27
FUSES 6-27
REPLACEMENT 6-27
FUSIBLE LINKS 6-27
CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6-28
RESETTING AND/OR
REPLACEMENT 6-28
FLASHERS 6-28
REPLACEMENT 6-28
WIRING DIAGRAMS 6-31
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-9
AIR CONDITIONING COMPONENTS 6-11
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-11
CONTROLCABLES 6-12
ADJUSTMENT 6-12
CONTROL PANEL 6-12
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-12
CRUISE CONTROL 6-13
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 6-14
RADIO RECEIVER/AMPLIFIER/TAPE
PLAYER/CD PLAYER 6-14
SPEAKERS 6-14
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-14
WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND
WASHERS 6-15
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADE AND
ARM 6-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-15
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR 6-16 _
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-16
WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMP 6-17
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-17

I
6-4 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
I
printed circuit is sandwiched between two sheets of
plastic for more protection and flexibility. A complete l Weatherproof-these connectors are most the jumper wire is of too small a gauge, it
printed circuit, consisting of conductors, insulating commonly used where the connector is exposed to
may overheat and possibly melt. Never use
material and connectors for lamps or other compo- the elements. Terminals are protected against mois-
nents is called a printed circuit board. Printed cir- ture and dirt by sealing rings which provide a weath- jumpers to bypass high resistance loads in a
et-tight seal. All repairs require the use of a special circuit. Bypassing resistances, in effect, cre-
cuitry is used in place of individual wires or har- ates a short circuit. This may, in turn, cause
nesses in places where space is limited, such as terminal and the tool required to service it. Unlike
behind instrument panels. standard blade type terminals, these weatherproof damage and fire. Jumper wires should only
be used to bypass lengths of wire or to simu-
Since automotive electrical systems are very sen- terminals cannot be straightened once they are bent. late switches.
sitive to changes in resistance, the selection of prop- ‘Make certain that the connectors are properly seated
erly sized wires is critical when systems are repaired, and all of the sealing rings are in place when con-
netting leads. Jumper wires are simple, yet extremely valuable,
A loose or corroded connection or a replacement wire pieces of test equipment. They are basically test wires
that is too small for the circuit will add extra resis-
l Molded-these connectors require complete which are used to bypass sections of a circuit. Al-
replacement of the connector if found to be defective.
tance and an additional voltage drop to the circuit. though jumper wires can be purchased, they are usu-
The wire gauge number is an expression of the This means splicing a new connector assembly into ally fabricated from lengths of standard automotive
cross-section area of the conductor. Vehicles from the harness. All splices should be soldered to insure
proper contact. Use care when probing the connec- wire and whatever type of connector (alligator clip,
countries that use the metric system will typically de- spade connector or pin connector) that is required for
scribe the wire size as its cross-sectional area in tions or replacing terminals in them, as it is possible
square millimeters. In this method, the larger the to create a short circuit between opposite terminals. If the particular application being tested. In cramped,
hard-to-reach areas, it is advisable to have insulated
wire, the greater the number. Another common sys- this happens to the wrong terminal pair, it is possible
to damage certain components. Always use jumper boots over the jumper wire terminals in order to pre-
tern for expressing wire size is the American Wire vent accidental grounding. It is also advisable to in-
Gauge (AWG) system. As gauge number increases, wires between connectors for circuit checking and
NEVER probe through weatherproof seals. elude a standard automotive fuse in any jumper wire.
area decreases and the wire becomes smaller. An 18
gauge wire is smaller than a 4 gauge wire. A wire
l Hard Shell-unlike molded connectors, the This is commonly referred to as a “fused jumper”. By
inserting an in-line fuse holder between a set of test
terminal contacts in hard-shell connectors can be re-
with a higher gauge number will carry less current
placed. Replacement usually involves the use of a leads, a fused jumper wire can be used for bypassing :
than a wire with a lower gauge number. Gauge wire open circuits. Use a 5 amp fuse to provide protection
size refers to the size of the strands of the conductor, special terminal removal tool that depresses the lock- against voltage spikes.
not the size of the complete wire with insulator. It is ing tangs (barbs) on the connector terminal and al-
lows the connector to be removed from the rear of the Jumper wires are used primarily to locate open
possible, therefore, to have two wires of the same
shell. The connector shell should be replaced if it electrical circuits, on either the ground (-) side of the
gauge with different diameters because one may have
thicker insulation than the other. shows any evidence of burning, melting, cracks, or circuit or on the power (+) side. If an electrical corn-
breaks. Replace individual terminals that are burnt, ponent fails to operate, connect the jumper wire be-
It is essential to understand how a circuit works
corroded, distorted or loose. tween the component and a good ground. If the corn-
before trying to figure out why it doesn’t. An electrical ponent operates only with the jumper installed, the
schematic shows the electrical current paths when a ground circuit is open. If the ground circuit is good,
circuit is operating properly. Schematics break the but the component does not operate, the circuit be-
entire electrical system down into individual circuits. tween the power feed and component may be open. ’
In a schematic, usually no attempt is made to repre- Pinpointing the exact cause of trouble in an elec- By moving the jumper wire successively back from
trical circuit is most times accomplished by the use the component toward the power source, you can
; : sent wiring and components as they physically ap-
pear on the vehicle; switches and other components of special test equipment. The following describes isolate the area of the circuit where the open is lo-
are shown as simply as possible. Face views of har- different types of commonly used test equipment and cated. When the component stops functioning, or the f
j
ness connectors show the cavity or terminal locations briefly explains how to use them in diagnosis. In ad- power is cut off, the open is in the segment of wire j
in all multi-pin connectors to help locate test points. dition to the information covered below, the tool between the jumper and the point previously tested.
! manufacturer’s instructions booklet (provided with You can sometimes connect the jumper wire di-
the tester) should be read and clearly under.$ood be- rectly from the battery to the “hot” terminal of the I
CONNECTORS 1 fore attempting any test procedures. component, but first make sure the component uses 1
# See Figures 5 and 6 JUMPER WIRES 12 volts in operation. Some electrical components, i
such as fuel injectors or sensors, are designed to op-
Three types of connectors are commonly used in erate on about 4 to 5 volts, and running 12 volts di- j
)
automotive applications-weatherproof, molded and rectly to these components will cause damage.
hard shell.
Never use jumper wires made from a thinner TEST LIGHTS I
gauge wire than the circuit being tested. If
# See Figure 7
The test light is used to check circuits and compo-
I nents while electrical current is flowing through
Fig. 5 Hard shell (left) and weatherproof
(right) connectors have replaceable termi- Fig. 7 A 12 volt test light is used to di%
nals
ements 1 the presence of voltage in a circuit

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-27
1. Remove the fuse box cover.
2. lnsoect the fuses to determine which is faulty.
REPLACEMENT 3. Grasp the fuse and remove it from the fuse
box. Never exceed the amperage rating of a blown
4. Inspect the box terminals and clean if cor- fuse. If the replacement fuse also blows,
It See Figures 120 thru 127 check for a problem in the circuit.
roded. If any terminals are damaged, replace the ter-
Fuses are located either in the engine Compartment minals. ’
5. Plug in a new fuse of the same amperage rat- 6. Check for proper operation of the affected
or passenger compartment fuse and relay panels. If a component or circuit.
fuse blows, at least one, but possibly several compo- ing.
ients/circuits will not function properly.
Fig, 120 The engine compartment fuse box
is typically located adjacent to the
battery
Fig. 122 The engine compartment fuse box
contains a combination of fuses, maxi-
fuses, relays, and diodes. Most can be re-
moved by simply pulling upward
I Do not replace blown fusible links with stan-
dard wire. Only fusible type wire with Hy
palon insulation can be
used, or damage to
the electrical system will occur!
A number of fusible links are used on these vehi-
cles to protect wiring and electrical components.
There is a collection of fusible links located near the
battery. These are referred to as the main fuse links. A
second group of links are located in the box with the
dedicated fuses. If replacement of a fuse link is re-
quired, use the exact same link as removed.
When a fusible link blows it is very important to
Fig. 121 Grasp the engine compartment find out why. They are placed in the electrical system
. ’ ‘“‘,+“” 1 ous wiring failures. fuse box cover and pull It straight up to re- for protection against dead shorts to ground, which
move it can be caused by electrical component failure or vari-
Fig. 123 The interior fuse box is located un-
der the driver’s side of the instrument panel
Fig. 125 Typically a fuse removal tool is lo-
cated in the fuse box to aid in removing the
fuses Fig. 126 Grasp the fuse with the removal
tool and pull it straight out to remove it Fig. 124 Grasp the interior fuse box cover,
depress the retaining
tabs and lift up to re-

-
7-6 DRIVETRAIN
fig. 20 Removing the CV-joint Fig. 21 inspecting the M-joint housing
TCCS7042 1 Fig. 26 Removing the CV-joint inner
snapring Fig, 27 installing the CV-joint assembly Removing the CV-joint outer
Fig. 25 Removing the CV-joint assembly
11. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.
Except Double Otfset Joint
1. Disconnect the neaative batterv cable. Remove
the halfshaft. - ’
2. Use side cutter oliers to remove the metal re-
taining bands from the boot(s) that will be removed.
Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
3. Remove the snapring and the tripod joint spi-
der assembly from the halfshaft. Do not disassemble
the spider and use care in handling.
4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around
the spline part of the shaft so the boot(s) will not be
I
3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the ’
base of the joint. Remove the outer race (the body of
the joint).
4. Remove the small snapring and take off the
inner race, cage and balls as an assembly. Clean the
inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
5. If the boot is to be reused. wioe the arease
from the splines and wrap the splfnes in vin$ tape
before sliding the boot from the shaft.
6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the
shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is to be replaced, re-
move the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down
and off of the shaft at this time.
To install:
7. Be sure to tape the shaft splines before in-
stalling the boots. Fill the inside of the boot with the (typiW
1
specified grease. Often the grease supplied in the re-
placement parts kit is meant to be divided in half,
with half being used to lubricate the joint and half be-
ing used inside the boot.
Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small 8.
diameter side of the cage is installed first. With a
brass drift pin, tap lightly and e ’ ’ ‘* ’
nemy arouna me Inner
race to install the race until it comes into contact with
the rib of the shaft. Apply the specified grease to the
inner race and cage and fit them together. Insert the
balls into the cage.
9. Install the outer race (the body of the joint)
after filling with the specified grease. The outer race
should be filled with this greas e.
10. Tighten the boot bands
securely. Make sure
the distance between the boot t,, IuJ IJ ,,“I lGbl. \onrlo i.i *nrro”+ damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
To install: damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.
5. -
Double check that the correct replacement
parts are being installed. Wrap vinyl tape around the
splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
damper, if used, in the correct order,
6. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft
and ipctdl the cnmrinn 7. Fill the inside ofthe boot with the specified
grease. Often the grease supplied in the replacement
parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside
the boot. Keep grease off the rubber part of the dy-
namic damper (if used).
8. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a
horizontal position. Make sure distance between boot
bands is correct.
9. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and recon-
nect
the negative battery cable.

DRIVETRAIN 7-9
*When adjusting the clutch pedal height or
the clutch pedal clevis pin play, be careful
not to push the pushrod toward the master
cylinder.
d. Check that when the clutch pedal is de-
pressed all the way, the interlock switch switches
over from ON to OFF.
ADJUSTMENT
# See Figure 42
*The following adjustment is for the cable
actuated clutch system on the Mirage. The
Hydraulic systems on all other models are
self-adjusting.
1. Measure the clutch pedal height (measurement
A). The specificatron is 6.38-6.50 in.
(162-165mm).
*The clutch pedal height is not adjustable.
If not within specifications, part replacement
is required.
2. Depress clutch pedal several times and check
the pedal free-play (measurement B).
3. If measurement is not 0.67-0.87 in.
(17-22mm), adjustment is required.
4. To adjust, turn the outer cable adjusting nut,
located at the firewall, until free-play is within range.
5. Depress the clutch pedal several times and
recheck the measurement.
REMOVALANDINSTALLATION
1. Rotate the adjusting wheel counterclockwise to
loosen the cable.
2. Remove the cable retaining clamps.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the clutch actuat-
ing arm at the transaxle and disconnect the cable.
4. Disconnect the cable at the pedal and remove
the cable from the vehicle.
rln order to prevent cable binding or abra-
sion, be sure to take note of the cable rout-
ing, so that it can be reinstalled in the same
position.
To install:
5. Route the cable and make the connection at the
clutch pedal.
6. Make the connection at the transaxle and se-
cure the cable with the retaining clamp. Install a new
cotter pin.
7. Lubricate all pivot points.
8 Adjust the cable to achieve proper free-play.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
I
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove necessary underhood components in
order to gain access to the clutch master cylinder.
Clutch pedal height
Fig. 42 Clutch pedal height (A) measure-
ment-Mirage
7923PGDl
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle to
catch the fluid once the line IS drsconnected, or place
a rag or shop towel under the fluid line of the master
cylinder.
4. Loosen the line at the cylinder and allow the
fluid to drain.
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a oainted surface; it will damage the paint.
5. Remove the clevis pin retainer at the clutch
pedal and remove the washer and clevis pm.
6. Remove the 2 nuts and pull the cylinder from
the firewall. A seal should be between the mounting
flange and firewall. This seal should be replaced.
7. The installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
8. Lubricate all pivot points with grease.
9. Bleed the system at the slave cylinder using
DOT 3 brake fluid and check the adjustment of the
clutch pedal.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove necessary underhood components in
order to gain access to the clutch release cylinder.
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle,
then remove the hydraulic line and allow the system
to drain.
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a uainted surface; it will damage the paint.
4. Remove the bolts and pull the cylinder from
the transaxle housing. On some 1.5L engines, in-
stead of a pushrod bearing against the clutch arm, a
clevis pin and yoke is used. Simply remove the cir-
clip, pull out the clevis pin and remove the cylinder.
5. The installation IS the reverse of the removal
procedure.
6. Lubricate all pivot points with grease.
7. Bleed the system using DOT 3 brake fluid.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
) See Figure 43
With Hydraulic Clutch
1, Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid meeting
DOT 3 specificatrons.
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
2. Press the clutch pedal to the floor, then open
the bleeder screw on the slave cvlinder.
3. Tighten the bleed screw and release the clutch
pedal.
4. Repeat the procedure until the fluid is free of
air bubbles.
7923PG91 Fig. 43 Bleeding a typical clutch hydraulic
system

7-14 DRIVETRAIN
The only model covered by this manual equipped
with a transfer case is the 1990-93 AWD Galant. assembly. Place a drain pan under the rear of the
transfer assembly to catch any fluid that leaks out.
3. Usinq a flat-bladed prying tool, carefully re-
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
move the ofi seal from the transfer dust seal guard
To install: 4. Using proper size seal driver tool, install the
seal into the dust seal quard and the transfer assem-
blv.
# See Figures 49 and 50
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Remove the propeller shaft from the transfer ‘5. Install the rear propeller shaft.
6. Carefully lower the vehicle and inspect the
transfer assembly fluid level.
a9577g50 1 Fig. 49 Exploded view of the transfer case
1 extension housing and related components a9577g51 Fig. 50 Install the oil seal using the proper
sized driver and a hammer REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely. Drain the
transfer oil.
3. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe.
4. Unbolt the transfer case assembly and remove
by sliding it off the rear driveshaft. Be careful not to
damage the oil seal in the transfer case output hous-
ing. Do not let the rear driveshaft hang; suspend it
from a frame piece. Cover the opening in the
transaxle and transfer case to keep oil from dripping
and to keep dirt out.
5. Lubricate the driveshaft sleeve yoke and oil
seal lipan the transfer extension housing. Install the
transfer case assembly to the transaxle. Use care
when installing the rear driveshaft to the transfer case
output shaft.
6. Tighten the transfer case to transaxle bolts to
40-43 ft. Ibs. (55-60 Nm) with manual transaxle;
43-58 ft. Ibs. (60-80 Nm) with automatic transaxle.
7. Install the exhaust pipe using a new gasket. In-
stall removed bumper components.
8. Refill the transfer case and check oil levels in
transaxle and transfer case.
The only model covered by this manual equipped
with a driveshaft is the 1990-93 AWD Galant.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
) See Figures 51 and 52
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise
the vehicle and support safely.
2. The rear driveshaft is a 3-piece unit, with a
front, center and rear propeller shaft. Remove the
nuts and msulators from the center support bearing.
Work carefully. There will be a number of spacers
which will differ from vehicle to vehicle. Check the
number of spacers and write down their locations for
reference during reassembly.
3. Matchmark the rear differential companion
flange and the rear driveshaft flange yoke. Remove
the companion shaft bolts and remove the driveshaft,
keeping it as straight as possible so as to ensure that
the boot is not damaged or pinched. Use care to keep
from damaging the oil seal in the output housing of
the transfer case.
*Damage to the boot can be avoided and
work will be easier if a piece of cloth or simi-
lar material is inserted in the boot.
4. Do not lower the rear of the vehicle or oil will
flow from the transfer case. Cover the opening to
keep dirt out.
To install: 5. Position the driveshaft in the vehicle, making
sure to align the matchmarks at the rear yoke.
6. Install the bolts at the rear differential flange
and tighten to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm). 7. Install the center support bearing with all spac- 2 Force out the bearing journals from the yoke
ers in place. Tighten the retaining nuts to 22-25 ft. using a large C-clamp. Install a collar on the fixed
Ibs. (3C-35 Nm). side of the C-clamp. Press the journal bearing into
8. Check the fluid levels in the transfer case and the collar by applying pressure with the C-clamp, on
rear differential case. the opposite side.
U-JOINTREPLACEMENT
1. Make mating marks on the yoke and the uni-
versa1 joint that is to be disassembled. Remove the
snaprings from the yoke with snapring pliers. 3. Pull the journal bearing from the yoke.
rlf the journal bearing is hard to remove,
strike the yoke with a plastic hammer.
4. Press the journal shaft using C-clamp or simi-
lar tool, to remove the remaining bearings.
Fiu. 51 Exploded view of the proueller shafl mounting

DRIVETRAiN 7-15
MATING MARKS
/
89577Q5E Fig. 52 Apply mating marks on the flange
yoke and differential companion flange
5. Once all bearings are removed, remove the
journal.
To install:
6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the shafts,
grease sumps, dust seal lips and needle roller bear-
ings of the replacement U-joint Do not apply exces-
sive grease Otherwse, faulty fitting of bearing caps
and errors in selection of snaprings may result.
7. Press fit the journal bearings to the yoke using
a C-clamp as follows:
a. Install a solid base onto the bottom of the
C-clamp.
b. Insert both bearings into the yoke. Hold
and press fit them by tightening the C-clamp.
c. Install snaprings of the same thickness
onto both sides of each yoke.
d. Press the bearing and journal into one side, using a brass bar with diameter of 0.59 in.
(15mm).
8. Measure the clearance between the snapring
and the groove wall of the yoke with a feeler gauge. If
the clearance exceeds 0.0008-0.0024 in.
(0.02-O.O6mm), the snap rings should be replaced.
DRIVESHAFT BALANCING
Driveshaft balancing is a process best left for a
professional wrth the proper equipment. Makeshift
methods using hose clamps or similar devices can
work, but the process of correcting the imbalance in
this manner is very tough and extremely time con-
suming.
Many machine shops can balance driveshafts;
some parts stores and jobbers can also balance dri-
veshafts using outside contractors.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
1. Place matmg marks on the companron flange
and the Lobro joint assembly
2. Remove the Lobro joint installation bolts.
Separate the Lobro joint from the companion flange.
3. Place mating marks on the center yoke and
center propeller shaft, and the companion flange and
the rear propeller shaft.
4. Remove the self-locking nuts. Remove the
center yoke and companion flange. 5. Place mating marks on the center bearing as-
sembly front bracket and the center propeller shaft,
and the center bearing assembly rear bracket and the
rear propeller shaft. Remove the center bearing
bracket.
*The mounting rubber can not be removed
from the center bearing bracket.
6. Pull out the front and rear center bearings
with a commercially available puller
To install:
7. Apply multi-purpose grease to the center
bearing front and rear grease grooves and to the dust
seal lip Be sure to fit the bearing into the rubber
mount groove on the center bearing bracket.
*Face the bearing dust seal to the side of
the center bearing bracket mating mark.
8. Assemble the center bearing to the center
propeller shaft and rear propeller shaft. Face the side
onto which the center bearing bracket mating marks
IS placed and the dust seal is installed toward the
side of the center propeller shaft and rear propeller
shaft.
9 Apply a thin and even coat of the grease, en-
closed with the repair kit, to the rubber packing on
the companion flange. Align the mating marks on the
center propeller shaft and the companion flange, then
press fit the center bearing with self-locking nuts.
10 Install the Lobro joint assembly installation
bolts. Secure the companron flange and Lobro joint
assembly with the installation bolts Check for grease
leakage from the Lobro joint boot and companion
flange installabon parts.
The only model covered by this manual equipped
with a rear axle differential is the 1990-93 AWD
Galant.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
# See Figures 53 and 54
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise
the vehicle and support safely.
2. Remove the bolts that attach the rear halfshaft
to the comoanion flanae.
3. Use’a prybar topry the inner shaft out of the
I Fig. 53 Rear driveshaft mounting
89577g5
differential case. Don’t insert the prybar too far or the
seal could be damaged.
4 Remove the rear driveshaft from the vehicle.
5. If necessary, carefully pry the oil seal from the
rear differential using a flat tipped prying tool.
To install:
6. Install a new oil seal into the rear differential
housing using proper size driver.
7. Replace the circlip and install the rear drive-
shaft to the differential case. Make sure it snaps in
place.
8. Install the companion flange bolts and tighten
to 40-47 ft. Ibs. (55-65 Nm).
9. Check the fluid level in the rear differential.
69577958 Fig. 54 Remove the driveshaft from the dif-
ferential carrier with a prybar
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3 Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the
vehicle.
4 If equipped with ABS, remove the rear wheel
speed sensor.
*Be cautious to ensure that the tip of the
pole piece on the rear speed sensor does not
come in contact with other parts during re-
moval. Sensor damage could occur.
5. Remove the rear caliper and support assem-
bly out of the way. Remove the brake disc.
6. Remove the driveshaft and companion flange
installation bolts, nuts and washers. Move the end of
shaft slightly to access the self-locking nut.
7. Using axle holding tool MBSbll-01 or
equivalent, secure the rear axle shaft in position, then
remove the self-locking nut.
8. Using puller and adapter MBSbll-01 and
MB9b41-01 or equivalents, remove the rear axle
shaft from the trailing arm
9. If equipped with ABS, remove the rear rotor
from the axle assembly using collar and press. The
rotor is a press fit.
10 Remove the outer bearing and dust cover
concurrently from the axle shaft using a press.