2010 JAGUAR XFR wheel bolts

General Information - Standard Workshop Practices
Description and Operation

Protecting the Vehicle Published: 04-Jul-2014

Always install covers to protect the fenders before commencing work in the engine compartment. Always install the interior
protection kit, wear clean overalls and wash hands or wear gloves before working inside the vehicle. Avoid spilling hydraulic
fluid, antifreeze or battery acid on the paintwork. In the event of spillage, wash off with water immediately. Use polythene
sheets in the luggage compartment to protect carpets. Always use the recommended service tool, or a satisfactory equivalent,
where specified. Protect temporarily exposed screw threads by replacing nuts or installing caps.

Vehicle in Workshop

When working on a vehicle in the workshop always make sure that:

The parking brake is applied or the wheels are securely chocked to prevent the vehicle moving forwards or backwards
If the engine is to be run, there is adequate ventilation, or an extraction hose to remove exhaust fumes is installed
There is adequate room to jack up the vehicle and remove the wheels, if necessary
Fender covers are always installed if any work is to be carried out in the engine compartment
The battery is disconnected if working on the engine, underneath the vehicle, or if the vehicle is jacked up


CAUTION: When electric arc welding on a vehicle, always disconnect the generator wiring to prevent the possibility of a
surge of current causing damage to the internal components of the generator.
If using welding equipment on the vehicle, ensure a suitable fire extinguisher is readily available.

Screw Threads

Damaged nuts, bolts and screws must always be discarded. Attempting to recut or repair damaged threads with a tap
or die impairs the strength and fit of the threads and is not recommended.
NOTES:

During certain repair operations, it may be necessary to remove traces of thread locking agents using a tap. Where this
is necessary, the instruction to do so will appear in the relevant operation and it is essential that a tap of the correct size and
thread is used.


New Taptite bolts when used cut their own threads on the first application.

Some bolts are coated with a thread locking agent and unless stated otherwise, they must not be reused. New bolts
having the same part number as the original must always be installed. When nuts or bolts are to be discarded, the
repair operation and relevant torque chart will include an instruction to that effect. Do not use proprietary thread
locking agents as they may not meet the specification required. See also Encapsulated ('Patched') Bolts and Screws.
Always make sure that replacement nuts and bolts are at least equal in strength to those that they are replacing.
Castellated nuts must not be loosened to accept a split pin except in recommended cases when this forms part of an
adjustment.
Do not allow oil or grease to enter blind holes, the hydraulic action resulting from tightening the bolt or stud can split
the housing and also give a false torque reading.
Always tighten a nut, bolt or screw to the specified torque figure, damaged or corroded threads can give a false torque
reading.
Nut and bolt loosening and tightening sequences, where given, must ALWAYS be followed. Distortion of components or
faulty sealing of joints will result if the sequences are not followed. Where an instruction is given to tighten in stages,
these stages must be adhered to; do not attempt to combine stages particularly where certain stages involve
tightening by degrees.
To check or re-tighten a fixing to a specified torque, first loosen a quarter of a turn, then retighten to the specified
torque figure.
Unless instructed otherwise, do not lubricate bolt or nut threads prior to installing.
Where it is stated that bolts and screws may be reused, the following procedures must be carried out:
Check that threads are undamaged.
Remove all traces of locking agent from the threads.

CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire brush; take care that threads are not damaged.
Make sure that threads are clean and free from oil or grease.
Apply the specified locking agent to the bolt threads.

it may turn out to be the most important.

2. Do not touch anything until a road test and a thorough visual inspection of the vehicle have been carried out. Leave the
tire pressures and vehicle load just where they were when the condition was first observed. Adjusting tire pressures,
vehicle load or making other adjustments may reduce the conditions intensity to a point where it cannot be identified
clearly. It may also inject something new into the system, preventing correct diagnosis.

3. Make a visual inspection as part of the preliminary diagnosis routine, writing down anything that does not look right.
Note tire pressures, but do not adjust them yet. Note leaking fluids, loose nuts and bolts, or bright spots where
components may be rubbing against each other. Check the luggage compartment for unusual loads.
4. Road test the vehicle and define the condition by reproducing it several times during the road test.

5. Carry out the Road Test Quick Checks as soon as the condition is reproduced. This will identify the correct diagnostic
procedure. Carry out the Road Test Quick Checks more than once to verify they are providing a valid result. Remember,
the Road Test Quick Checks may not tell where the concern is, but they will tell where it is not.

Road Test Quick Checks

1. 24-80 km/h (15-50 miles/h): With light acceleration, a moaning noise is heard and possibly a vibration is felt in the
front floor pan. It is usually worse at a particular engine speed and at a particular throttle setting during acceleration at
that speed. It may also produce a moaning sound, depending on what component is causing it. Refer to Tip-In Moan in
the Symptom Chart.

2. Acceleration/deceleration: With slow acceleration and deceleration, a shake is sometimes noticed in the steering
wheel/column, seats, front floor pan, front door trim panel or front end sheet metal. It is a low frequency vibration
(around 9-15 cycles per second). It may or may not be increased by applying brakes lightly. Refer to Idle Boom/Shake
/Vibration in the Symptom Chart.

3. High speed: A vibration is felt in the front floor pan or seats with no visible shake, but with an accompanying sound or
rumble, buzz, hum, drone or booming noise. Coast with the clutch pedal depressed or shift control selector lever in
neutral and engine idling. If vibration is still evident, it may be related to wheels, tires, front brake discs, wheel hubs
or front wheel bearings. Refer to High Speed Shake in the Symptom Chart.

4. Engine rpm sensitive: A vibration is felt whenever the engine reaches a particular rpm. It will disappear in neutral
coasts. The vibration can be duplicated by operating the engine at the problem rpm while the vehicle is stationary. It
can be caused by any component, from the accessory drive belt to the torque converter which turns at engine speed
when the vehicle is stopped. Refer to High Speed Shake in the Symptom Chart.

5. Noise/vibration while turning: Clicking, popping, or grinding noises may be due to a worn, damaged, or incorrectly
installed front wheel bearing, rear drive half shaft or CV joint.

6. Noise/vibration that is road speed relative: This noise/vibration can be diagnosed independent of engine speed or gear
selected (engine speed varies but torque and road speed remain constant). The cause may be a rear drive
axle/differential whine.
Road Conditions

An experienced technician will always establish a route that will be used for all NVH diagnosis road tests. The road selected
should be reasonably smooth, level and free of undulations (unless a particular condition needs to be identified). A smooth
asphalt road that allows driving over a range of speeds is best. Gravel or bumpy roads are unsuitable because of the additional
road noise produced. Once the route is established and consistently used, the road noise variable is eliminated from the test
results.


NOTE: Some concerns may be apparent only on smooth asphalt roads.

If a customer complains of a noise or vibration on a particular road and only on a particular road, the source of the concern
may be the road surface. If possible, try to test the vehicle on the same type of road.

Vehicle Preparation

Carry out a thorough visual inspection of the vehicle before carrying out the road test. Note anything which is unusual. Do not
repair or adjust any condition until the road test is carried out, unless the vehicle is inoperative or the condition could pose a
hazard to the technician.
After verifying the condition has been corrected, make sure all components removed have been installed.

Lift Test

After a road test, it is sometimes useful to do a similar test on a lift.

When carrying out the high-speed shake diagnosis or engine accessory vibration diagnosis on a lift, observe the following
precautions:


WARNING: If only one drive wheel is allowed to rotate, speed must be limited to 55 km/h (35 miles/h) indicated on the
speedometer since actual wheel speed will be twice that indicated on the speedometer. Speed exceeding 55 km/h (35 miles/h)
or allowing the drive wheel to hang unsupported could result in tire disintegration, differential failure, constant velocity joint

Published: 14-Feb-2012
Suspension System - General Information - Front Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub Runout Check Vehicles With: High Performance Brakes
General Procedures

NOTES:


Some variation in the illustrations may occur, but the essential information is always correct.


RH illustration shown, LH similar.
1. WARNING: Make sure to support the vehicle with axle stands.
Raise the front of the vehicle.
2. Remove the front wheel.
For additional information, refer to: Wheel and Tire (204-04 Wheels and Tires, Removal and Installation).

3. Remove the 2 brake caliper support bolts.
Push the brake caliper pistons back to release the pads from the disc. Detach the brake caliper and position to one side with suitable tie strap.















4. Remove the disc.
Remove the 2 clips.









5. Mount special tool 100-053 on the lower caliper support bracket as shown.
A
spacer washer may be required under the tool.
Use the brake caliper support bolt and suitable nut. 6. Position
the Dial Test Indicator (DTI) gauge probe on the hub flange as shown.
7. Zero DTI and rotate the hub one complete revolution to measure hub runout. hub runout must not exceed 0.015 mm.
8. If the hub runout exceeds the limit, install a new hub and bearing.For additional information, refer to:

Front Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub - TDV6 3.0L Diesel /V8 5.0L Petrol/V8 S/C 5.0L Petrol (Removal and Installation).
9. If the hub runout is within the limit install the removed components.
10. tighten the brake caliper bolts to 115 Nm.

Published:
27-Feb-2012
Suspension System - General Information - Rear Wheel Bearing and Wheel
Hub Ru
nout Check

General Procedures

NOTES:

RH illustra tion shown, LH sim ilar.

Some variat ion i n the illustra tions may o ccur, but the es senti al informa tion is always co rrect.

It is recommended that the DTI is capable of measurements of 0.005 mm.


1. WARNING: Make sure to support the vehicle with axle stands.

Raise the rear of the vehicle.
2. Remove the rear wheel.
For additional information, refer to: Wheel and Tire (204-04 Wheels and Tires, Removal and Installation).
3. Remove the 2 brake caliper support bolts.
Push the brake pads back to release the brake
caliper from the disc.
Detach the brake caliper and position to one side
with suitable tie strap.













4. Remove the disc.
Remove the 2 clips.

hub flange as shown.
















7. Zero DTI and rotate the hub one complete revolution to measure hub
runout. Hub runout must not exceed 0.025 mm.

8. If the hub runout exceeds the limit, install a new hub and bearing.
For additional information, refer to: Rear Wheel Bearing (204-02 Rear Suspension, Removal and Installation).

9. If the hub runout is within the limit install the removed components.

10. Tighten the brake support caliper bolts to 103 Nm.

Steering gear to subframe retaining bolts 100 74 - Toe link ball joint to wheel knuckle retaining nut 133 98 - Stabilizer bar link to stabilizer bar retaining nut 43 32 - Stabilizer bar link to lower arm retaining nut and bolt 70 52 - Stabilizer bar clamp to subframe retaining bolts 55 41 - Rear lower arm to wheel knuckle ball joint retaining nut 75 55 - Rear lower arm to subframe retaining nut and bolt 175 129 - Front lower arm to subframe retaining nut and bolt 175 129 - Front lower arm to rear lower arm retaining nut and bolt
Stage 1 - 60 Stage 2 - 135 degrees Stage 1 - 44 Stage 2 - 135 degrees - Upper arm ball joint to wheel knuckle retaining nut 90 66 - Upper arm to body retaining nuts and bolts 47 35 - Shock absorber and spring assembly upper mounting to body retaining nuts 28 20 - Shock absorber and spring assembly to lower arm retaining nut and
bolt 175 129 - Shock absorber and spring assembly upper mounting retaining nut (without adaptive damping) 50 37 - Shock absorber and spring assembly upper mounting retaining nut (with adaptive damping) 27 20 - Wheel hub and bearing assembly to wheel knuckle retaining bolt 90 66 - Wheel and tire to wheel hub retaining nuts 125 92 -

Upper Control Arm
The forged-aluminum upper control arm is a wishbone design and connects to the vehicle body through two plain bushes, and
links to the swan neck wheel knuckle by an integral ball joint. The upper control arm is inclined to provide anti-dive
characteristics under heavy braking, while also controlling geometry for vehicle straight-line stability.

Lower Control Arm

The forged aluminum lower control arms are of the wishbone design; the arms separate to allow for optimum bush tuning:

The rear lateral control arm is fitted with a bush at its inner end which locates between brackets on the subframe. The
arm is secured with an eccentric bolt which provides the adjustment of the suspension camber geometry. The outer end
of the control arm has a tapered hole which locates on a ball joint fitted to the wheel knuckle. An integral clevis bracket
on the forward face of the lateral control arm allows for the attachment of the forward control arm. A bush is fitted
below the clevis bracket to provide for the attachment of the stabilizer bar link. A cross-axis joint is fitted to a
cross-hole in the control arm to provide the location for the clevis attachment of the spring and damper assembly.
The forward control arm is fitted with a fluid-block rubber bush at its inner end which locates between brackets on the
subframe. The arm is secured with an eccentric bolt which provides adjustment of the castor and camber geometry. The
outer end of the control arm is fitted with a cross-axis joint and locates in the integral clevis bracket on the lateral
control arm.

Wheel Knuckle

The cast aluminum wheel knuckle is a swan neck design and attaches to the upper control arm and lower lateral control arm.
The lower lateral control arm locates on a non serviceable ball-joint integral with the wheel knuckle. The lower boss on the
rear of the knuckle provides for the attachment of the steering gear tie-rod ball joint.
The wheel knuckle also provides the mounting locations for the:
wheel hub and bearing assembly
the wheel speed sensor (integral to the wheel hub and bearing assembly)
brake caliper and disc shield.

Stabilizer Bar

The stabilizer bar is attached to the front of the subframe with bushes and mounting brackets. The pressed steel mounting
brackets locate over the bushes and are attached to the cross member with bolts screwed into threaded locations in the
subframe. The stabilizer bar has crimped, 'anti-shuffle' collars pressed in position on the inside edges of the bushes. The
collars prevent sideways movement of the stabilizer bar.

The stabilizer bar is manufactured from 32mm diameter tubular steel on supercharged models and 31mm diameter tubular
steel on diesel and normally aspirated models and has been designed to provide particular characteristics in maintaining roll
rates, specifically in primary ride comfort.

Each end of the stabilizer bar curves rearwards to attach to a ball joint on a stabilizer link. Each stabilizer link is secured to a
bush in the lower lateral arm with a bolt and locknut. The links allow the stabilizer bar to move with the wheel travel providing
maximum effectiveness.

The only difference between the front stabilizer bars, in addition to the diameter, is in the shape to accommodate engine
variant:

a slightly curved bar, between bush centers, for V6 diesel (31 mm dia) and V8 gasoline supercharged (32 mm dia),
a straight bar, between bush centers, for V6 and V8 normally aspirated gasoline engines (31 mm dia).
Spring and Damper Assembly

The spring and damper assemblies are located between the lower lateral arm and the front suspension housing in the inner
wing. Dependant on vehicle model there are three types of coil spring and damper available:
a standard oil passive damper (All models except supercharged),
an adaptive damper, also known as Computer Active Technology Suspension (CATS) on 4.2L supercharged vehicles up to
2010MY, For additional information refer to Vehicle Dynamic Suspension 4.2L.
a continuously variable adaptive damper, also known as Adaptive Dynamics System on 5.0L supercharged vehicles from
2010MY. For additional information refer to Vehicle Dynamic Suspension 5.0L.

The dampers are a monotube design with a spring seat secured by a circlip onto the damper tube. The damper's lower
spherical joint is an integral part of the lateral lower control-arm, and the damper takes the form of a clevis-end, which
straddles the spherical joint.

The damper piston is connected to a damper rod which is sealed at its exit point from the damper body. The threaded outer
end of the damper rod locates through a hole in the top mount. A self locking nut secures the top mount to the damper rod.
The damper rod on the adaptive damper has an electrical connector on the outer end of the damper rod.

Supercharged 4.2L vehicles up to 2010MY: The adaptive damper functions by restricting the flow of hydraulic fluid through
internal galleries in the damper's piston. The adaptive damper has a solenoid operated valve, which when switched allows a
greater flow of hydraulic fluid through the damper's piston. This provides a softer damping characteristic from the damper. The
adaptive damper defaults to a firmer setting when not activated. The solenoid is computer controlled and can switch between
soft and hard damping settings depending on road wheel inputs and vehicle speed.

Supercharged 5.0L vehicles from 2010MY: The variable damper functions by adjustment of a solenoid operated variable orifice,
which opens up an alternative path for oil flow within the damper. When de-energized the bypass is closed and all the oil flows