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Pressure Fluid Pressure
Standard Service Limit Problem Probable causes
14-214Automatic Transmission
Pressure Test (cont’d)
27. Bring the engine back to an idle, then apply the
brake pedal to stop the wheels from rotating.
28. Shift to R, then release the brake pedal. Measure the 4th clutch pressure at the 4th clutch pressure
inspection port (F) while holding the engine speed
at 2,000 rpm.
4th clutch
(F) in R 890 970 kPa
(9.1 9.9 kgf/cm ,
130 140 psi) 840 kPa
(8.6 kgf/cm ,
120 psi)
29. Turn the engine off, then disconnect the A/T oil pressure gauge from the 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutch
pressure inspection ports.
30. Install the sealing bolts in the 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutch pressure inspection ports with new sealing
washers, and tighten the bolts to 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m,
13 lbf·ft). Do not reuse the old sealing washers. 31. If the pressures are out of the service limit, the
problems and probable causes are listed in the
table.
No or low line
pressure
Torque converter
ATF pump
Regulator valve
Torque converter
check valve
Clogged ATF strainer
No or low 1st clutch
pressure 1st clutch
O-rings
No or low 2nd clutch
pressure 2nd clutch
O-rings
No or low 3rd clutch
pressure 3rd clutch
O-rings
No or low 4th clutch
pressure 4th clutch
O-rings
No or low 5th clutch
pressure 5th clutch
O-rings
No or low 4th clutch
pressure in R Servo valve
4th clutch
O-rings
32. Install the splash shield.
33. Check the ATF level (see page 14-231).
22
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17-8 Steering
Steering Wheel Installation
A
B
A D
B
C A
39 N·m
(4.0 kgf·m,
29 lbf·ft)
B
1. Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead, then center
the cable reel (A). Do this by first rotating the cable
reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it
counterclockwise about three full turns. The arrow
mark (B) on the cable reel label should point
straight up.
2. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown. Install the steering
wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure
the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of
the cable reel and tabs of the turn signal canceling
sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering
column shaft when installing the steering wheel. 3. Install the steering wheel bolt (A), and tighten it to
the specified torque. Connect the cable reel
subharness connector (B). Make sure the wire
harness is routed and fastened properly.
4. Install the driver’s airbag, and confirm that the system is operating properly (see page 24-188).
5. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure (see page 22-68), and do these tasks:
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds
and then goes off.
Make sure the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
6. After installation, check the steering wheel spoke angle. If the steering spoke angles to the right and
left are not equal (steering wheel is not centered),
correct the engagement of the wheel/column shaft
serrations.
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17-76EPS Components
Steering Gearbox Removal and Installation (cont’d)
A
B
C
12x1.25mm
59 N·m
(6.0 kgf·m, 43 lbf·ft)
D
12x1.25mm
59 N·m
(6.0 kgf·m, 43 lbf·ft) B
A
E
12x1.25mm
59 N·m
(6.0 kgf·m,
43 lbf·ft) D
C
AB
B
12x1.25mm
54 N·m
(5.5 kgf·m,
40 lbf·ft)
A D
E
C
20. Install the exhaust hanger (A) to the three way
catalytic converter (TWC) (B).
21. Connect the lower arm (A) to the lower ball joint (B).
22. Install a new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly tightening all three fasteners,
tighten them to the specified torque in the
following order; the self-locking nut on the front (C),
the self-locking nut on the rear (D), then the flange
bolt (E). 23. Remove the vinyl tape, then connect the EPS motor
connector A (2P), the EPS motor connector B (1P),
torque sensor 4P connector (C), the EPS motor
angle sensor 6P connector (D) to the steering
gearbox. Make sure to push these connectors until
you hear a click so that the connectors are secured.
24. Install the front splash shield (see page 20-172).
25. Wipe off any grease contamination from the ball joint tapered section and the threads. Reconnect
the tie-rod ends (A) to the steering knuckles. Install
the 12 mm nut (B) and tighten it.
26. Install the new cotter pin (C), and bend it as shown (D) or (E).
27. Install the front wheel, then set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
NOTE: Before installing the wheel, clean the mating
surfaces between the brake disc and inside of the
wheel.
Replace.
Replace.
Replace. Replace.
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Camber Inspection Front Camber Adjustment
Camber angle:
Front: 0 ° 00 ’ 30 ’
(Maximum difference between the front right and left
side: 0 ° 35 ’) Rear (without ‘‘C’’ marks on the upper arm):1°30’
Rear (with ‘‘C’’ marks on the upper arm): 0°45’
1° 05 ’ 0° 45 ’
1° 05 ’ 0° 45 ’
18-6Front and Rear Suspension
Wheel Alignment (cont’d)
A
Damper pinch bolt Adjusting bolt set:
P/N 04512-SNA-305
A
14x1.5mm
90 N·m
(9.2 kgf·m,
67 lbf·ft)
Use commercially available computerized four wheel
alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment
(caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.1. Check the camber angle. NOTE: There are two types of rear upper arms. Those that are marked with ‘‘C’’ (A), and those with no
marks. Be sure to use the correct alignment
specifications.
If the measurement is within specification, measure the toe-in.
If the measurement for the front camber is outside the specification, go to front camber
adjustment.
If the measurement for the rear camber is outside the specification, check for bent or damaged
suspension components. The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or
both of the damper pinch bolts with a smaller diameter
adjusting bolt. The difference between the adjusting
bolt diameter and the pinch bolt hole diameter allows
for a small range of adjustment.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations (see page
1-11).
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle by moving the bottom of the damper
within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play.
4. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.
6. Lower the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Replace.
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Front Toe Inspection/Adjustment
Front toe-in: 0 2 mm (0 0.08 in.)
18-7
B
A
14x1.5mm
90 N·m
(9.2 kgf·m,
67 lbf·ft)A
14x1.5mm
44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 lbf·ft)
BC
7. Measure the camber angle.
If the measurement is within specification,measure the toe.
If the measurement is not within specification, go to step 8.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations (see page
1-11).
9. Remove the front wheels.
10. Replace the damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle.
NOTE: Install the washers (B) included adjusting bolt set between the front damper and self-locking nut.
The camber angle can be adjusted up to 25 ’ (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper
pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt.
The camber angle can be adjusted up to 50 ’ by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the
adjusting bolts.
11. Tighten the adjusting bolts to the specified torque value.
12. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.
13. Lower the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to
stabilize the suspension.
14. Measure the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within specification, repeat steps 8 through 13
to readjust the camber angle. If the camber
measurement is correct, measure toe-in, and adjust
it if necessary. Use commercially available computerized four wheel
alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment
(caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
1. Set the steering column to the middle tilt and center telescopic positions. Center the steering
wheel spokes, and install a steering wheel holder
tool.
2. Check the toe with the wheels pointed straight ahead.
If adjustment is required, go to step 3.
If no adjustment is required, go to rear toe inspection/adjustment.
3. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts (A) while holding the flat surface sections (B) of the tie-rod end with a
wrench, and turn both tie-rods (C) until the front toe
is within specifications.
4. After adjusting, tighten the tie-rod locknuts to the specified torque value. Reposition the rack-end
boot if it is twisted or displaced.
5. Go to rear toe inspection/adjustment.
(cont’d)
Replace.Replace.
Replace.
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Rear Toe Inspection/Adjustment Turning Angle Inspection
Rear toe-in: 2 mm (0.08 in.) Turning angle:
Inward wheel: 38 ° 46 ’ 2 °
Outward wheel (reference): 31 ° 14 ’2 1 0.08
0.04
18-8Front and Rear Suspension
Wheel Alignment (cont’d)
A
B
C
Except Type S model:
12x1.25mm
69 N·m
(7.0 kgf·m, 51 lbf·ft)
Type S model:
12x1.25mm
74 N·m
(7.5 kgf·m, 54 lbf·ft)
Use commercially available computerized four wheel
alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment
(caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement.
2. Check the toe.
If adjustment is required, go to step 3.
If no adjustment is required, go to turning angleinspection.
3. Hold the adjusting bolt (A) on the trailing arm (B), and loosen the self-locking nut (C).
4. Replace the self-locking nut with a new one, and lightly tighten it.
NOTE: Always use a new self-locking nut whenever it has been tightened to the specified torque.
Reassemble the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the eccentric facing up.
5. Adjust the rear toe by turning the adjusting bolt until the toe is correct.
6. Tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque value while holding the adjusting bolt. Use commercially available computerized four wheel
alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment
(caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
1. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brake, and measure the turning angle of both
wheels.
2. If the measurement is not within the specifications, even up both sides of the tie-rod threaded section
length while adjusting the front toe. If it is correct,
but the turning angle is not within the
specifications, check for bent or damaged
suspension components.
Replace.
Replace.
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Front and rear wheel radial runout:
Standard: 0 0.7 mm (0 0.03 in.)
Service limit: 1.5 mm (0.06 in.) Special Tools Required
Front
18-1018-10Front and Rear Suspension
Wheel Runout Inspection (cont’d) Wheel Bolt Replacement
Press
A
B
C C
4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and
measure the radial runout.
5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play (see page 18-9),
and make sure the mating surfaces on the brake
disc and the inside of the wheel are clean.
6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service limit,
replace the wheel. Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL0A202
Do not use a hammer or impact tools (pneumaticor electric) to remove and install the wheel bolts.
Be careful not to damage the threads of the wheel bolts.
1. Remove the front hub (see page 18-15).
2. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using a hydraulic press. Support the hub with hydraulic
press attachments (C) or equivalent tools.
NOTE: Before installing the new wheel bolt, clean
the mating surfaces, on the bolt and the hub.
3. Insert the new wheel bolt into the hub while aligning the splined surfaces on the hub hole with
the wheel bolt.
NOTE: Degrease all around the wheel bolt.
Make sure the wheel bolt is installed vertically in relation to the hub disc surface.
4. Install the wheel bolt using a hydraulic press until the wheel bolt shoulder is fully seated.
5. Install the front hub (see page 18-15). NOTE: If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the
specified torque value when installing the wheel,
replace the front hub as an assembly.
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Front and rear wheel radial runout:
Standard: 0 0.7 mm (0 0.03 in.)
Service limit: 1.5 mm (0.06 in.) Special Tools Required
Front
18-1018-10Front and Rear Suspension
Wheel Runout Inspection (cont’d) Wheel Bolt Replacement
Press
A
B
C C
4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and
measure the radial runout.
5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play (see page 18-9),
and make sure the mating surfaces on the brake
disc and the inside of the wheel are clean.
6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service limit,
replace the wheel. Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL0A202
Do not use a hammer or impact tools (pneumaticor electric) to remove and install the wheel bolts.
Be careful not to damage the threads of the wheel bolts.
1. Remove the front hub (see page 18-15).
2. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using a hydraulic press. Support the hub with hydraulic
press attachments (C) or equivalent tools.
NOTE: Before installing the new wheel bolt, clean
the mating surfaces, on the bolt and the hub.
3. Insert the new wheel bolt into the hub while aligning the splined surfaces on the hub hole with
the wheel bolt.
NOTE: Degrease all around the wheel bolt.
Make sure the wheel bolt is installed vertically in relation to the hub disc surface.
4. Install the wheel bolt using a hydraulic press until the wheel bolt shoulder is fully seated.
5. Install the front hub (see page 18-15). NOTE: If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the
specified torque value when installing the wheel,
replace the front hub as an assembly.
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