WHEEL HUB RAX-5
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On-Vehicle Inspection and ServiceADS000C4
Make sure the mounting conditions (looseness, back lash) of each component and component status (wear,
damage) are normal.
WHEEL BEARING INSPECTION
Move wheel hub in the axial direction by hand. Make sure there is no looseness of wheel bearing.
Rotate wheel hub and make sure there is no unusual noise or other irregular conditions. If there are any
irregular conditions, replace wheel bearings.
Removal and InstallationADS000C5
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire with power tool.
2. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. Refer to BR-
27, "Removal and Installation of Brake Caliper Assembly" .
NOTE:
Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed.
3. Remove disc rotor.
4. Remove wheel sensor from axle. Refer to BRC-57, "
WHEEL SENSORS" .
CAUTION:
Do not pull on wheel sensor harness.
5. Remove cotter pin. Then remove lock nut from drive shaft.
6. Separate drive shaft from wheel hub and bearing assembly by lightly tapping the end with a suitable ham- mer and wood block. If it is hard to separate, use a suitable puller.
7. Remove fixing bolts of wheel hub and bearing assembly with power tool, then remove wheel hub and bearing assembly from axle.
8. Remove parking brake cable and parking brake shoe from back plate. Refer to PB-5, "
PARKING BRAKE
SHOE" and PB-3, "PARKING BRAKE CONTROL" .
9. Remove fixing nuts of anchor block with power tool, then remove anchor block and back plate from axle. Axial end play : 0 mm (0 in)
1. Drive shaft 2. Bushing 3. Axle
4. Back plate 5. Anchor block 6. Wheel bearing
7. Wheel hub 8. Cotter pin
SDIA1481E
RAX-6
WHEEL HUB
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10. Loosen fixing bolts and nuts of front lower link, radius rod, and rear lower link in side of suspension mem-
ber.
11. Set jack under rear lower link. Then remove fixing bolt in front lower link side of shock absorber with power tool.
12. Remove bolt and nut in axle side of rear lower link with power tool. Then remove coil spring. Refer to RSU-15, "
REAR LOWER LINK & COIL SPRING" .
13. Remove fixing bolts and nuts in axle side of front lower link, radius rod with power tool.
14. Remove suspension arm and cotter pin at axle, then loosen mounting nut.
15. Use a ball joint remover (suitable tool) to remove suspension arm from axle. Be careful not to damage ball joint boot.
CAUTION:
Tighten temporarily mounting nut to prevent damage to threads and to prevent ball joint remover
(suitable tool) from coming off.
16. Remove axle from vehicle.
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL
Ball Joint Inspection
Check for boot breakage, axial looseness, and torque of suspension arm ball joint. Refer to RSU-11,
"INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL" .
INSTALLATION
Refer to RAX-5, "Removal and Installation" for tightening torque. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE:
Refer to component parts location and do not reuse non-reusable parts.
Perform final tightening of installation position of suspension links (rubber bushing) under unladen condi-
tions with tires on level ground, Check wheel alignment. Refer to RSU-5, "
Wheel Alignment Inspection" .
After adjusting wheel alignment, adjust neutral position of steering angle sensor. Refer to BRC-6, "Adjust-
ment of Steering Angle Sensor Neutral Position" .
Disassembly and AssemblyADS000C6
DISASSEMBLY
Wheel Bearing
CAUTION:
Do not disassemble if wheel bearing has no trouble.
1. Remove wheel bearing fixing bolts and anchor block fixing nuts, and remove wheel hub and bearing assembly, back plate and anchor block from axle.
2. Using a drift (SST) and a puller (suitable tool), press wheel hub out to remove from wheel bearing.
SDIA1482E
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WHEEL HUB
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Wheel Bearing
1. Press fit a wheel hub into wheel bearing with a drift (SST).
CAUTION:
Press fit a drift (SST) while holding it against wheel bear-
ing inner side inner race.
Wheel bearing cannot be reused. Do not attempt to reuse
it.
NOTE:
Final press load guideline 49,033 N (5,000 kg, 11,000 lb)
2. Install back plate and wheel hub and bearing assembly.
3. Install anchor block onto axle.
INSPECTION AFTER ASSEMBLY
1. With wheel bearing pressed into axle housing, apply 49,033 N (5,000 kg, 11,000 lb) to wheel hub and rotate both clockwise and counterclockwise 10 times to minimize resistance.
2. Attach spring scale in the position shown in illustration and pull at a rate of 10 ± 2 rpm to measure rotating torque.
SDIA1120E
Rotating torque:
Less than 2.7 N·m (0.28 kg-m, 24 in-lb)
Spring scale reading: Less than 26.6 N (2.7 kg, 5.95 lb)
SDIA1486E
REAR DRIVE SHAFT RAX-9
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REAR DRIVE SHAFTPFP:39600
Removal and InstallationADS000C7
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire with power tool.
2. Remove cotter pin. Then remove lock nut from drive shaft.
3. Remove fixing nuts and bolts between side flange and drive shaft with power tool.
4. Separate drive shaft from wheel hub and bearing assembly by lightly tapping the end with a suitable ham- mer and wood block. If it is hard to separate, use a suitable puller.
5. Remove drive shaft from axle. CAUTION:
When removing drive shaft, do not apply an excessive angle to drive shaft joint. Also be careful
not to excessively extend slide joint.
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL
Move joint up/down, left/right, and in the axial direction. Check
for any rough movement or significant looseness.
Check boot for cracks or other damage, and also for grease
leakage.
If a trouble is found, disassemble drive shaft, and then replace
with new one.
INSTALLATION
Refer to RAX-9, "Removal and Installation" for tightening torque. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE:
Refer to component parts location and do not reuse non-reusable parts.
1. Side flange 2. Cotter pin
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RF-4
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSESPFP:00000
Work FlowAIS003AV
CUSTOMER INTERVIEW
Interview the customer if possible, to determine the conditions that exist when the noise occurs. Use the Diag-
nostic Worksheet during the interview to document the facts and conditions when the noise occurs and any
customer's comments; refer to RF-8, "
Diagnostic Worksheet" . This information is necessary to duplicate the
conditions that exist when the noise occurs.
The customer may not be able to provide a detailed description or the location of the noise. Attempt to
obtain all the facts and conditions that exist when the noise occurs (or does not occur).
If there is more than one noise in the vehicle, be sure to diagnose and repair the noise that the customer
is concerned about. This can be accomplished by test driving the vehicle with the customer.
After identifying the type of noise, isolate the noise in terms of its characteristics. The noise characteristics
are provided so the customer, service adviser and technician are all speaking the same language when
defining the noise.
Squeak —(Like tennis shoes on a clean floor)
Squeak characteristics include the light contact/fast movement/brought on by road conditions/hard sur-
faces=higher pitch noise/softer surfaces=lower pitch noises/edge to surface=chirping
Creak—(Like walking on an old wooden floor)
Creak characteristics include firm contact/slow movement/twisting with a rotational movement/pitch
dependent on materials/often brought on by activity.
Rattle—(Like shaking a baby rattle)
Rattle characteristics include the fast repeated contact/vibration or similar movement/loose parts/missing
clip or fastener/incorrect clearance.
Knock —(Like a knock on a door)
Knock characteristics include hollow sounding/sometimes repeating/often brought on by driver action.
Tick—(Like a clock second hand)
Tick characteristics include gentle contacting of light materials/loose components/can be caused by driver
action or road conditions.
Thump—(Heavy, muffled knock noise)
Thump characteristics include softer knock/dead sound often brought on by activity.
Buzz—(Like a bumble bee)
Buzz characteristics include high frequency rattle/firm contact.
Often the degree of acceptable noise level will vary depending upon the person. A noise that you may
judge as acceptable may be very irritating to the customer.
Weather conditions, especially humidity and temperature, may have a great effect on noise level.
SBT842
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES RF-5
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DUPLICATE THE NOISE AND TEST DRIVE
If possible, drive the vehicle with the customer until the noise is duplicated. Note any additional information on
the Diagnostic Worksheet regarding the conditions or location of the noise. This information can be used to
duplicate the same conditions when you confirm the repair.
If the noise can be duplicated easily during the test drive, to help identify the source of the noise, try to dupli-
cate the noise with the vehicle stopped by doing one or all of the following:
1) Close a door.
2) Tap or push/pull around the area where the noise appears to be coming from.
3) Rev the engine.
4) Use a floor jack to recreate vehicle “twist”.
5) At idle, apply engine load (electrical load, half-clutch on M/T model, drive position on A/T model).
6) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and hit a tire with a rubber hammer.
Drive the vehicle and attempt to duplicate the conditions the customer states exist when the noise occurs.
If it is difficult to duplicate the noise, drive the vehicle slowly on an undulating or rough road to stress the
vehicle body.
CHECK RELATED SERVICE BULLETINS
After verifying the customer concern or symptom, check ASIST for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related
to that concern or symptom.
If a TSB relates to the symptom, follow the procedure to repair the noise.
LOCATE THE NOISE AND IDENTIFY THE ROOT CAUSE
1. Narrow down the noise to a general area. To help pinpoint the source of the noise, use a listening tool (Chassis Ear: J39570, Engine Ear and mechanics stethoscope).
2. Narrow down the noise to a more specific area and identify the cause of the noise by:
removing the components in the area that you suspect the noise is coming from.
Do not use too much force when removing clips and fasteners, otherwise clips and fastener can be broken
or lost during the repair, resulting in the creation of new noise.
tapping or pushing/pulling the component that you suspect is causing the noise.
Do not tap or push/pull the component with excessive force, otherwise the noise will be eliminated only
temporarily.
feeling for a vibration with your hand by touching the component(s) that you suspect is (are) causing the
noise.
placing a piece of paper between components that you suspect are causing the noise.
looking for loose components and contact marks.
Refer to RF-6, "
Generic Squeak and Rattle Troubleshooting" .
REPAIR THE CAUSE
If the cause is a loose component, tighten the component securely.
If the cause is insufficient clearance between components:
–separate components by repositioning or loosening and retightening the component, if possible.
–insulate components with a suitable insulator such as urethane pads, foam blocks, felt cloth tape or ure-
thane tape. A Nissan Squeak and Rattle Kit (J43980) is available through your authorized Nissan Parts
Department.
CAUTION:
Do not use excessive force as many components are constructed of plastic and may be damaged.
Always check with the Parts Department for the latest parts information.
The following materials are contained in the Nissan Squeak and Rattle Kit (J43980). Each item can be
ordered separately as needed.
URETHANE PADS [1.5 mm (0.059 in) thick]
Insulates connectors, harness, etc.
76268-9E005: 100 × 135 mm (3.94 × 5.31 in)/76884-71L01: 60 × 85 mm (2.36 × 3.35 in)/76884-71L02: 15
× 25 mm (0.59 × 0.98 in)
INSULATOR (Foam blocks)
Insulates components from contact.Can be used to fill space behind a panel.
73982-9E000: 45 mm (1.77 in) thick, 50 × 50 mm (1.97 × 1.97 in)/73982-50Y00: 10 mm (0.39 in) thick,
50 × 50 mm (1.97 × 1.97 in)
RF-6
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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INSULATOR (Light foam block)
80845-71L00: 30 mm (1.18 in) thick, 30 × 50 mm (1.18 × 1.97 in)
FELT CLOTHTAPE
Used to insulate where movement does not occur. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
68370-4B000: 15 × 25 mm (0.59 × 0.98 in) pad/68239-13E00: 5 mm (0.20 in) wide tape roll
The following materials, not found in the kit, can also be used to repair squeaks and rattles.
UHMW(TEFLON) TAPE
Insulates where slight movement is present. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
SILICONE GREASE
Used in place of UHMW tape that will be visible or not fit.
Note: Will only last a few months.
SILICONE SPRAY
Use when grease cannot be applied.
DUCT TAPE
Use to eliminate movement.
CONFIRM THE REPAIR
Confirm that the cause of a noise is repaired by test driving the vehicle. Operate the vehicle under the same
conditions as when the noise originally occurred. Refer to the notes on the Diagnostic Worksheet.
Generic Squeak and Rattle TroubleshootingAIS003AW
Refer to Table of Contents for specific component removal and installation information.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Most incidents are caused by contact and movement between:
1. Cluster lid A and instrument panel
2. Acrylic lens and combination meter housing
3. Instrument panel to front pillar garnish
4. Instrument panel to windshield
5. Instrument panel mounting pins
6. Wiring harnesses behind the combination meter
7. A/C defroster duct and duct joint
These incidents can usually be located by tapping or moving the components to duplicate the noise or by
pressing on the components while driving to stop the noise. Most of these incidents can be repaired by apply-
ing felt cloth tape or silicon spray (in hard to reach areas).Urethane pads can be used to insulate wiring har-
ness.
CAUTION:
Do not use silicone spray to isolate a squeak or rattle. If you saturate the area with silicone, you will
not be able to recheck the repair.
CENTER CONSOLE
Components to pay attention to include:
1. Shifter assembly cover to finisher
2. A/C control unit and cluster lid C
3. Wiring harnesses behind audio and A/C control unit
The instrument panel repair and isolation procedures also apply to the center console.
DOORS
Pay attention to the:
1. Finisher and inner panel making a slapping noise
2. Inside handle escutcheon to door finisher
3. Wiring harnesses tapping
4. Door striker out of alignment causing a popping noise on starts and stops
Tapping or moving the components or pressing on them while driving to duplicate the conditions can isolate
many of these incidents. You can usually insulate the areas with felt cloth tape or insulator foam blocks from
the Nissan Squeak and Rattle Kit (J43980) to repair the noise.
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES RF-7
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TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.