2003 DODGE RAM engine oil

ASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the same gears and thrust washers are
being used, install them into their orignial locations.
(1) Lubricate all differential components with axle
lubricant.
(2) Install differential side gears and thrust wash-
ers (Fig. 36).
(3) Rotate the one pinion gear with thrust washer
into the differential case (Fig. 37). Then rotate the
other pinion gear with thrust washer into the differ-
ential case.(4) Align hole in the pinion gears with hole in the
differential case.
(5) Install pinion shaft.
(6) Installnewpinion shaft lock bolt and tighten
to 52 N´m (38 ft. lbs.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or
gasoline for cleaning.
(2) Lubricate differential case bearing.
(3) Install differential case with bearings cups into
the housing.
(4) Install bearing caps and bolts (Fig. 38). Tighten
the bearing cap bolts finger-tight.
NOTE: Do not torque bearing cap and bolts at this
time.
(5) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(6) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 until they make contact with the differential
bearings/cups.
Fig. 36 SIDE GEARS
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEAR
Fig. 37 PINION GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEARS
3 - PINION GEAR
Fig. 38 CASE BEARING CAP
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - ADJUSTER
DRFRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 63
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(2) Remove differential cover and drain the lubri-
cant.
(3) Clean housing cavity with flushing oil, light
engine oil or a lint free cloth.
NOTE: Do not use steam, kerosene or gasoline to
clean the housing.
(4) Remove axle shafts.
(5) Remove RWAL/ABS sensor from housing.
NOTE: Side play resulting from bearing races being
loose on case hubs requires replacement of the dif-
ferential case.
(6) Mark differential housing and bearing caps for
installation reference (Fig. 30).(7) Remove bearing threaded adjuster lock from
each bearing cap.
(8) Loosen differential bearing cap bolts.
(9) Loosen differential bearing adjusters through
the axle tubes with Wrench C-4164 (Fig. 31).
(10) Hold differential case while removing bearing
caps and adjusters.
(11) Remove differential case.
NOTE: Tag the differential bearing cups and
threaded adjusters to indicate their location.
Fig. 28 DIFFERENTIAL-STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING
1 - IN STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING EACH WHEEL ROTATES AT
100% OF CASE SPEED
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - PINION GEARS ROTATE WITH CASE
Fig. 29 DIFFERENTIAL-ON TURNS
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
Fig. 30 REFERENCE MARKS
1 - REFERENCE MARKS
2 - REFERENCE MARK
3 - BEARING CAPS
Fig. 31 THREADED ADJUSTER TOOL
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - BACKING PLATE
3 - THREAD ADJUSTER WRENCH
DRREAR AXLE - 9 1/4 3 - 87
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(4) Install the other pinion gear and thrust
washer. Rotate the gears to align hole in the pinion
gears with hole in the differential case.
(5) Slide pinion shaft into the case and through
the pinion gears. Tap the shaft to seat the pinion
shaft snap-ring into the case (Fig. 35).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or
gasoline for cleaning.
(2) Lubricate differential case bearing.
(3) Install differential case with bearings cups into
the housing.
NOTE: A light coat of grease on the cups will hold
them in place during installation.
(4) Install bearing caps and bolts (Fig. 36). Tighten
the bearing cap bolts finger-tight.
NOTE: Do not torque bearing cap and bolts at this
time.
(5) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(6) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 until they make contact with the differential
bearings/cups.
(7) Back off the ring gear side adjuster 4 holes, to
obtain initial ring gear backlash.
Fig. 34 PINION GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEARS
3 - PINION GEAR
Fig. 35 PINION SHAFT INSTALLATION
1 - PINION SHAFT SNAP-RING
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 36 CASE BEARING CAP
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - ADJUSTER
DRREAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA 3 - 117
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(3) Install first pinion gear into the differential
window and side gears. Rotate the pinion gear to the
back of the case (Fig. 34).
(4) Install the other pinion gear and thrust
washer. Rotate the gears to align hole in the pinion
gears with hole in the differential case.
(5) Slide pinion shaft into the case and through
the pinion gears. Tap the shaft to seat the pinion
shaft snap-ring into the case (Fig. 35).
(6) Install ring gear.INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or
gasoline for cleaning.
(2) Lubricate differential case bearing.
(3) Install differential case with bearings cups into
the housing.
NOTE: A light coat of grease on the cups will hold
them in place during installation.
(4) Install bearing caps and bolts (Fig. 36). Tighten
the bearing cap bolts finger-tight.
NOTE: Do not torque bearing cap and bolts at this
time.
(5) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(6) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 until they make contact with the differential
bearings/cups.
(7) Back off the ring gear side adjuster 4 holes, to
obtain initial ring gear backlash.
Fig. 34 PINION GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEARS
3 - PINION GEAR
Fig. 35 PINION SHAFT INSTALLATION
1 - SNAP RING
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 36 CASE BEARING CAP
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - ADJUSTER
3 - 144 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(6) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(10) Install wheel and tire assembly.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 33).
The correct fluid level is to the MAX indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
Fig. 32 CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT - REAR
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT
2 - AXLE TUBE
3 - MOUNTING STUDS
Fig. 33 FLUID LEVEL
1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - MAX LEVEL MARK
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT (Continued)

CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with turning equipment. Remove only
enough material to reduce scoring (approximately
0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal isnot rec-
ommended.Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the fly-
wheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
Fault conditions are listed at the top of each chart.
Conditions, causes and corrective action are outlined
in the indicated columns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM FLOW -
5.9L DIESEL
The diesel engine cooling system consists of :
²Cross-flow radiator
²Belt driven water pump
²Belt driven mechanical cooling fan
²Electronic viscous fan drive
²Fan shroud
²Radiator pressure cap²Vertically mounted thermostat
²Coolant reserve/recovery system
²Transmission oil cooler
²Coolant
Coolant flow circuits for the 5.9L diesel engine are
shown in (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1 Engine Cooling System Flow - 3.7L/4.7L
1 - LH CYL. HEAD
2 - BLEED
3 - THERMOSTAT LOCATION
4 - RH CYL. HEAD
5 - RH BANK CYL. BLOCK6 - LH BANK CYL. BLOCK
7 - COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR
8 - FROM HEATER CORE
9 - TO HEATER CORE
7 - 2 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)