2002 DODGE RAM engine

(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(9) Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 19).
The correct fluid level is to the FULL indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove reservoir cap and empty fluid into
drain container.
(2) Clamp cylinder body in vise with brass protec-
tive jaws.
(3) Remove pins that retain reservoir to master
cylinder. Use hammer and pin punch to remove pins
(Fig. 20).
(4) Loosen reservoir from grommets with pry tool
(Fig. 21).
(5) Remove reservoir by rocking it to one side and
pulling free of grommets (Fig. 22).
(6) Remove old grommets from cylinder body (Fig.
23).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use any type of tool to install the
grommets. Tools may cut, or tear the grommets cre-
ating a leak problem after installation. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.
(1) Lubricate new grommets with clean brake fluid
and Install new grommets in cylinder body (Fig. 24).
Use finger pressure to install and seat grommets.
(2) Start reservoir in grommets. Then rock reser-
voir back and forth while pressing downward to seat
it in grommets.
Fig. 19 Master Cylinder Fluid Level - Typical
1 - INDICATOR
2 - RESERVOIR
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 15
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLA-
TION).
(10) Install knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.(2) With the engine off depress the brake pedal
several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp
the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it
does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the
booster must be replaced.
SEAL LEAKAGE
If the booster leaks from any of the seals the
booster assembly must be replaced (Fig. 27).
²INPUT ROD SEAL:Fluid leakage from rear
end of the booster.
²PISTON SEAL:Fluid leakage from vent at
front of booster.
²HOUSING SEAL:Fluid leakage between hous-
ing and housing cover.
²SPOOL VALVE SEAL:Fluid leakage near
spool plug.
²RETURN PORT FITTING SEAL:Fluid leak-
age from port fitting.
Fig. 27 Hydraulic Booster Seals
1 - PUMP
2 - GEAR
3 - INPUT SEAL
4 - HOUSING SEAL
5 - ACCUMULATOR SEAL
6 - PISTON SEAL
7 - SPOOL PLUG SEAL
8 - RETURN
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
PEDAL (Continued)

HYDRAULIC BOOSTER DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster.
Excessive Brake Pedal
Effort.1. Internal or external seal leakage. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty steering pump. 2. Replace pump.
Brakes Self Apply 1. Dump valve faulty. 1. Replace booster.
2. Contamination in hydraulic
system.2. Flush hydraulic system and replace
booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
Booster Chatter, Pedal
Vibration1. Slipping pump belt. 1. Replace power steering belt.
2. Low pump fluid level. 2. Fill pump and check for leaks.
Grabbing Brakes 1. Low pump flow. 1. Test and repair/replace pump.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 28).
(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal. (Fig. 29).
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster (Fig. 30).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hydraulic booster and tighten the
mounting nuts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the booster push rod, washer and clip
onto the brake pedal.
(3) Install the master cylinder on the mounting
studs. and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 N´m (17
ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake lines to the master cylinder
and tighten to 19-200 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic booster line bracket onto
the master cylinder mounting studs.
(6) Install the master cylinder mounting nuts and
tighten to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 19
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(7) Install caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION) (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAU-
LIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pis-
tons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
(10) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
INSTALLATION - FRONT
(1) Bottom pistons in caliper bore with C-clamp.
Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and cal-
iper piston.
(2) Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle
springs.
(3) Lubricate anti-rattle springs with Mopar brake
grease.
(4) Install anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
(5) Install inboard brake shoe in adapter.
(6) Install outboard brake shoe in adapter.
(7) Tilt the bottom of the caliper over rotor and
under adapter. Then push the top of the caliper down
onto the adapter.
(8) Install caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(9) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pis-
tons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
(11) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits. The reservoir is the only
serviceable component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 47).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 48).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
(2) Attach bleed tubes to cylinder outlet ports.
Then position each tube end into reservoir (Fig. 49).(3) Fill reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
(4) Press cylinder pistons inward with wood dowel.
Then release pistons and allow them to return under
spring pressure. Continue bleeding operations until
air bubbles are no longer visible in fluid.
REMOVAL
(1) Pump the brake pedal several times to deplete
booster vacuum reserve.
(2) Remove brake lines from the master cylinder
(Fig. 50) .
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der (Fig. 50) .
(4) Remove the master cylinder.
Fig. 47 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 48 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
Fig. 49 Master Cylinder Bleeding±Typical
1 - BLEEDING TUBES
2 - RESERVOIR
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

NOTE: Check the sensor wire routing. Be sure the
wire is clear of all chassis components and is not
twisted or kinked at any spot.
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly.
(7) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(8) Reconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire
electrical connector inside the engine compartment.
(9) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
(10) Verify the wheel speed sensor operation with
a scan tool.
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
SPEED SENSOR
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are
mechanical in nature should be performed first. This
includes brake noise, lack of power assist, parking
brake, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
The Antilock brake system performs several self-
tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and
the vehicle is driven. The CAB monitors the system
inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is
operating properly. If the CAB senses a malfunction
in the system it will set a DTC into memory and trig-
ger the warning lamp.
NOTE: The MDS or DRB III scan tool is used to
diagnose the Antilock Brake system. For test proce-
dures refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove brake line mounting nut and remove
the brake line from the sensor stud.
(3) Remove mounting stud from the sensor and
shield (Fig. 6) .
(4) Remove sensor and shield from differential
housing.
(5) Disconnect sensor wire harness and remove
sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect harness to sensor.Be sure seal is
securely in place between sensor and wiring
connector.
(2) Install O-ring on sensor (if removed).
(3) Insert sensor in differential housing.
(4) Install sensor shield.
(5) Install the sensor mounting stud and tighten to
24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).(6) Install the brake line on the sensor stud and
install the nut.
(7) Lower vehicle.
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL
UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic control unit (HCU) consists of a
valve body, pump, two accumulators and a motor.
The assembly is mounted on the driverside inner
fender under the hood.
OPERATION
The pump, motor, and accumulators are combined
into an assembly attached to the valve body. The
accumulators store the extra fluid which had to be
dumped from the brakes. This is done to prevent the
wheels from locking up. The pump provides the fluid
volume needed and is operated by a DC type motor.
The motor is controlled by the CAB.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves
and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and
power booster operate the same as a vehicle without
an ABS brake system.
The valve body contains the solenoid valves. The
valves modulate brake pressure during antilock brak-
ing and are controlled by the CAB.
The HCU provides three channel pressure control
to the front and rear brakes. One channel controls
the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The two remaining
channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
Fig. 6 Rear Speed Sensor Mounting
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - AXLE
5 - 40 BRAKES - ABSBR/BE
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

CLUTCH
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION..........................1
OPERATION............................2
WARNING.............................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH........2
SPECIFICATIONS - CLUTCH...............7
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................8
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH
HOUSING............................9
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................11
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL.....13
DISASSEMBLY.........................13
ASSEMBLY............................14
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL.............................14
INSTALLATION.........................14
CLUTCH PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................15
INSTALLATION.........................15
LINKAGE
REMOVAL.............................15
INSTALLATION.........................16
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................17
OPERATION...........................17
CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The clutch mechanism consists of a flywheel, dry-
type disc, diaphragm style pressure plate (Fig. 1) and
hydraulic linkage. The flywheel is bolted to the rear
flange of the crankshaft. The clutch pressure plate is
bolted to the flywheel with the clutch disc between
these two components. The clutch system provides
the mechanical, link between the engine and the
transmission. The system is designed to transfer the
torque output of the engine, to the transmission
while isolating the transmission from the engine fir-
ing pulses to minimize concerns such as gear rattle.
Fig. 1 ENGINE POWERFLOW
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 1

OPERATION
When the clutch pedal is depressed, it actuates the
clutch master cylinder. This sends hydraulic pressure
to the clutch slave cylinder. The release fork is then
actuated by the slave cylinder mounted on the trans-
mission housing. The release fork pivots on a ball
stud mounted in the transmission housing and
pushes the release bearing. The release bearing then
depresses the pressure plate spring fingers, thereby
releasing pressure on the clutch disc and allowing
the engine crankshaft to spin independently of the
transmission input shaft (Fig. 2).
WARNING
WARNING: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. FACTORY INSTALLED
CLUTCH DISCS DO NOT CONTAIN ASBESTOS
FIBERS. DUST AND DIRT ON CLUTCH PARTS MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMAR-
KET COMPONENTS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CON-
CENTRATIONS OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS BODILY HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR
DURING SERVICE AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH
A DRY BRUSH. EITHER CLEAN THE COMPONENTSWITH A WATER DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VAC-
UUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING ASBESTOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT
CREATE DUST BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC.
REPLACE THE DISC IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS
DAMAGED OR CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL
DUST AND DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS
IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL
HELP MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY
PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL
SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA)
AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY
(EPA), FOR THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF
PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH
A road test and component inspection (Fig. 3) is
recommended to determine a clutch problem.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If the clutch chat-
ters, grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove
and inspect the clutch components. If the problem is
noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may be
needed as the transmission or another driveline com-
ponent may be at fault.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is
entering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, hous-
ing cracks or through hydraulic line openings. Driv-
ing through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals.
Fig. 2 CLUTCH OPERATION
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE FINGERS
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - RELEASE BEARING PUSHED IN
5 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
6 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
7 - RELEASE BEARING
6 - 2 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)