2001 DODGE RAM lock

The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at
the factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances.The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or remov-
ing fluid from the reservoir.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside
of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm
removed, fluid level should not be above indicator
ring.
To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during
inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before
removing the cap.
OPERATION
The clutch linkage uses hydraulic pressure to oper-
ate the clutch. Depressing the clutch pedal develops
fluid pressure in the clutch master cylinder. This
pressure is transmitted to the slave cylinder through
a connecting line. In turn, the slave cylinder operates
the clutch release lever.
The slave cylinder has an integral spring which
preloads the release bearing against the clutch dia-
phragm fingers to maintain zero free-play.
Slave cylinder force causes the release lever to
move the release bearing into contact with the dia-
phragm spring. As additional force is applied, the
bearing presses the diaphragm spring fingers inward
on the fulcrums. This action moves the pressure
plate rearward relieving clamp force on the disc.
REMOVAL
The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a quick
disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
not be disconnected or tampered with. The hydraulic
linkage is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes
as two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected. The individual compo-
nents that form the linkage assembly cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 35).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the lower dash panel
flange.
(5) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the upper dash panel
stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires.(8) Remove retaining clip (Fig. 36).
(9) Slide clutch master cylinder push rod off pedal
pin.
(10) Inspect condition of bushing in the clutch
master cylinder pushrod (Fig. 36). Replace the clutch
hydraulic linkage if bushing is worn or damaged.
(11) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder res-
ervoir is tight. This will avoid spillage during
removal.
(12) Remove the nuts holding the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(13) Remove screws that attach clutch fluid reser-
voir to dash panel.
(14) Remove the clutch master cylinder from the
dash panel.
(15) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a quick
disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
not be disconnected or tampered with. The hydraulic
linkage is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes
as two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
Fig. 35 Clutch Hydraulic Linkage
1 - DASH PANEL
2 - CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - SLAVE CYLINDER
5 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
6 - 20 CLUTCHBR/BE
LINKAGE (Continued)

should not be disconnected. The individual compo-
nents that form the linkage assembly cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately.
(1) Tighten cap on clutch fluid reservoir to avoid
spillage during installation.
(2) Position cylinders, connecting lines and reser-
voir in vehicle engine compartment. Locate the clutch
hydraulic line against the dash panel and behind all
engine hoses and wiring.
(3) Insert clutch master cylinder in dash panel.
Install and tighten the nuts to hold the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(4) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
and outside diameter of the master cylinder bushing.
(5) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
clutch pedal pin. Secure rod with retaining clip.
(6) Connect clutch pedal position (interlock) switch
wires.(7) Position clutch fluid reservoir on dash panel
and install reservoir screws. Tighten screws to 5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel into the lower dash panel
flange.
(9) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel onto the upper dash panel
stud.
(10) Raise vehicle.
(11) Install slave cylinder. Be sure cap at end of
cylinder rod is seated in release lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
NOTE: If new linkage is being installed, do not
remove the plastic shipping strap from slave cylin-
der push rod. The shipping strap will break on its
own upon the first clutch application.
(12) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(13) If a new clutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line (Fig. 37) to the clutch
slave cylinder.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
Fig. 36 Clutch Cylinder Push Rod Attachment
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
Fig. 37 Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
2 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 21
LINKAGE (Continued)

CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position (interlock) switch is in the
starter relay circuit and is mounted on the clutch
master cylinder push rod (Fig. 38). The switch is
actuated by clutch pedal movement.
OPERATION
The switch, which is in circuit with the starter
solenoid, requires that the clutch pedal be fully
depressed in order to start the engine. Switch cir-
cuitry and operation is provided in section 8W of
Group 8.
The position switch is an integral part of the clutch
master cylinder push rod and is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 38 Clutch Pedal Position (Interlock) Switch
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
6 - 22 CLUTCHBR/BE

hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TESTÐWITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
7 - 6 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly. If cap
is loose, boiling point of coolant will be
lowered. Also refer to the following Step
6.5. Tighten cap
6. Poor seals at the radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and cap
seals. Refer to Radiator Cap. Replace
cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
radiator.
7. Coolant level low in radiator but not in
coolant reserve/overflow tank. This
means the radiator is not drawing coolant
from the coolant reserve/overflow tank as
the engine cools7. (a) Check condition of radiator cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap in this
Group. Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
radiator.
(c) Check condition of the hose from the
radiator to the coolant tank. It should fit
tight at both ends without any kinks or
tears. Replace hose if necessary.
(d) Check coolant reserve/overflow tank
and tanks hoses for blockage. Repair as
necessary.
8. Incorrect coolant concentration 8. Check coolant. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID
TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
9. Coolant not flowing through system 9. Check for coolant flow at radiator filler
neck with some coolant removed, engine
warm and thermostat open. Coolant
should be observed flowing through
radiator. If flow is not observed, determine
area of obstruction and repair as
necessary.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins are
dirty or clogged.10. Remove insects and debris. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
11. Radiator core is corroded or plugged. 11. Have radiator re-cored or replaced.
12. Aftermarket A/C installed without
proper radiator.12. Install proper radiator.
13. Fuel or ignition system problems. 13. Refer to 14 - Fuel System or 8 -
Electrical for diagnosis and testing
procedures.
14. Dragging brakes. 14. Check and correct as necessary.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) for correct procedures.
15. Bug screen or cardboard is being
used, reducing airflow.15. Remove bug screen or cardboard.
7 - 8 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PRESSURE CAP IS
BLOWING OFF STEAM
AND/OR COOLANT TO
COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE
GAUGE READING MAY
BE ABOVE NORMAL
BUT NOT HIGH.
COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT
RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK1. Pressure relief valve in radiator cap is
defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap and
cap seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Replace
cap as necessary.
COOLANT LOSS TO
THE GROUND
WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF.
GAUGE READING
HIGH OR HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or engine.1. Pressure test and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
DETONATION OR
PRE-IGNITION (NOT
CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY
OR MAY NOT BE
READING HIGH1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating and
repair as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not correct.
Mixture is too rich or too lean.2. Check coolant concentration. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID
TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
HOSE OR HOSES
COLLAPSE WHILE
ENGINE IS RUNNING1. Vacuum created in cooling system on
engine cool-down is not being relieved
through coolant reserve/overflow system.1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve stuck.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Replace if
necessary
(b) Hose between coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator is kinked.
Repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow tank
is plugged. Clean vent and repair as
necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is internally
blocked or plugged. Check for blockage
and repair as necessary.
7 - 10 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
reservior/overflow system.1. Replace radiator cap, check vent
hose between radiator and reservoir
bottle for blockage also check
reservoir bottle vent for blockage.
NOISY FAN 1. Fan blade(s) loose, damaged. 1. Replace fan blade assembly.
2. Thermal viscous fan drive. 2. None. Normal condition.
3. Fan blades striking surrounding
objects.3. Locate contact point and repair
as necessary.
4. Thermal viscous fan drive
bearing.4. Replace viscous fan drive
assembly.
5. Obstructed air flow through
radiator.5. Remove obstruction.
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED)1. Radiator and/or A/C condenser
air flow obstructed.1. Remove obstruction and/or clean.
2. Thermal viscous fan drive not
working.2. Check fan drive. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
3. Air seals around radiator
damaged or missing.3. Inspect air seals, repair or
replace as necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE. GUAGE MAY OR
MAY NOT READ LOW.1. Heavy duty cooling system, and
cooler ambient temperatures.1. None. Normal condition.
2. Obstruction in heater hoses. 2. Remove hoses, remove
obstruction.
3. Water pump damaged. 3. Replace water pump.
HEAT ODOR 1. Damaged or missing drive line
heat shields.1. Repair or replace damaged or
missing heat shields.
2. Thermal viscous fan drive
damaged.2. Check thermal viscous fan drive.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
7 - 14 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L/8.0L
ENGINES
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(1) Remove radiator pressure cap.
(2) Loosen radiator petcock.
(3) Remove cylinder block drain plugs. Refer to
(Fig. 7).
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN PLUG WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Start the engine and place the heater control
temperature selector in the Full-On position. Vacuum
is needed to actuate the heater controls.
(2) Turn the ignition off.
(3) Do not remove radiator cap when draining cool-
ant from reserve/overflow tank. Open radiator drain
plug and when tank is empty, remove radiator cap. If
the coolant reserve/overflow tank does not drain,
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-ING). The coolant need not be removed from tank
unless the system is being refilled with fresh mix-
ture.
(4) Remove radiator pressure cap.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐREFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L/8.0L
ENGINES
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
Clean cooling system prior to refilling. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(1) Install cylinder block drain plugs. Coat the
threads with MopartThread Sealant with Teflon.
(2) Close radiator petcock.
(3) Fill cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of
water and antifreeze.
(4) Fill coolant reserve/overflow tank to FULL
mark on indicator stick.
(5) Start and operate engine until thermostat
opens (upper radiator hose warm to touch).
(6) If necessary, add a 50/50 water and antifreeze
mixture to the coolant reserve/overflow tank. This is
done to maintain coolant level between the FULL
and ADD marks. The level in the reserve/overflow
tank may drop below the ADD mark after three or
four warm-up and cool-down cycles.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐREFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
Clean cooling system prior to refilling (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(1) Close radiator drain plug.
CAUTION: Due to the use of the one-way check
valve, the engine must not be operating when refill-
ing the cooling system.
NOTE: The diesel engine is equipped with a one-
way check valve (jiggle pin). The check valve is
used as a servicing feature and will vent air when
the system is being filled. Water pressure (or flow)
will hold the valve closed.
(2) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of
water and antifreeze.
Fig. 7 Cylinder Block Drain PlugÐ3.9L/5.2L/5.9L
Engines
1 - BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
BR/BECOOLING 7 - 15
COOLING (Continued)