2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER air condition

DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER GUIDE PIN
BUSHINGS (DISC/DISC BRAKES)
Before disassembling the brake caliper, clean and
inspect it. Refer to CLEANING or INSPECTION in
this section.
(1) Using your fingers, collapse one side of the rub-
ber guide pin bushing. Pull the guide pin bushing out
the other side of the brake caliper mounting boss.
(2) Repeat this procedure on the remaining bush-
ing.
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.
(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 33). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
Fig. 33 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-23
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - FRONT (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.
(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 39). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
Fig. 38 Removing/Installing Caliper
1 - LIFT THIS END OF CALIPER AWAY FROM ADAPTER FIRST
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER ABUTMENT
4 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIP
5 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
6 - ROTOR
7 - ADAPTER
Fig. 39 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-27
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REAR (Continued)

OPERATION - PROPORTIONING VALVE
(HEIGHT SENSING)
Vehicles not equipped with ABS use a height sens-
ing proportioning valve.
The height sensing proportioning valve operates
similarly to a standard proportioning valve in the fol-
lowing way. As hydraulic pressure is applied to the
valve, full input hydraulic pressure is supplied to the
rear brakes up to a certain pressure point, called the
split point. Beyond the split point, the proportioning
valve reduces the amount of hydraulic pressure to
the rear brakes according to a given ratio. Thus, on
light brake applications, approximately equal
hydraulic pressure will be transmitted to both the
front and rear brakes. Upon heavier brake applica-
tions, the hydraulic pressure transmitted to the rear
brakes will be lower than the front brakes. This will
prevent premature rear wheel lockup and skid.
Here is how the height sensing proportioning valve
differs from a standard proportioning valve. As the
height of the rear suspension changes, the height
sensing portion of the proportioning valve changes
the split point of the proportioning valve. When the
height of the rear suspension is low, the proportion-
ing valve interprets this as extra load and the split
point of the proportioning valve is raised to a higher
pressure to allow for more rear braking. When the
height of the rear suspension is high, the proportion-
ing valve interprets this as a light load and the split
point of the proportioning valve is lowered to a lower
pressure and rear braking is reduced.
The height sensing proportioning valve regulates
the pressure by sensing the load condition of thevehicle through the movement of the proportioning
valve actuator lever (Fig. 61). As the position of the
rear axle changes, depending on the load the vehicle
is carrying, the movement is transferred to the pro-
portioning valve. The proportioning valve adjusts the
hydraulic pressure accordingly.
The height sensing proportioning valve allows the
brake system to maintain the optimal front to rear
brake balance regardless of the vehicle load condi-
tion. Under a light load condition, hydraulic pressure
to the rear brakes is minimized. As the rear load con-
dition increases, so does the hydraulic pressure to
the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPORTIONING
VALVE (HEIGHT SENSING)
CAUTION: The use of aftermarket load leveling or
load capacity increasing devices on this vehicle is
prohibited. Using air shock absorbers or helper
springs on this vehicle will cause the height sens-
ing proportioning valve to inappropriately reduce
the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. This inap-
propriate reduction in hydraulic pressure potentially
could result in increased stopping distance of the
vehicle.
When a premature rear wheel skid is obtained on a
brake application, it may be an indication that the
hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes is above the
specified output from the proportioning valve. This
condition indicates a possible malfunction of the
height sensing proportioning valve, which will
require testing to verify that it is properly controlling
the hydraulic pressure allowed to the rear brakes.
Premature rear wheel skid may also be caused by
contaminated front or rear brake linings.
Prior to testing a proportioning valve for function,
check that all tire pressures are correct. Also, ensure
the front and rear brake linings are in satisfactory
condition.It is also necessary to verify that the
brakes shoe assemblies on a vehicle being
tested are either original equipment manufac-
turers (OEM) or original replacement brake
shoe assemblies meeting the OEM lining mate-
rial specification. This vehicles brake system is
not balanced for aftermarket brake shoe assem-
bly lining material.
If both front and rear brakes check OK, proceed
with the following test procedure for the height sens-
ing proportioning valve.
(1) Road test the vehicle to determine which rear
wheel brake is exhibiting premature wheel skid.
Fig. 61 HEIGHT SENSING PROPORTIONING VALVE
1 - PROPORTIONING VALVE
2 - ACTUATOR LEVER
3 - AXLE BRACKET
4 - REAR AXLE
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASERS
PROPORTIONING VALVE (Continued)

tem enters the ABS mode. During ABS braking,
hydraulic pressure in the four wheel circuits is mod-
ulated to prevent any wheel from locking. Each
wheel circuit is designed with a set of electric sole-
noids to allow modulation, although for vehicle sta-
bility, both rear wheel solenoids receive the same
electrical signal. Wheel lockup may be perceived at
the very end of an ABS stop and is considered nor-
mal.
During an ABS stop, the brakes hydraulic system
is still diagonally split. However, the brake system
pressure is further split into three control channels.
During antilock operation of the vehicle's brake sys-
tem, the front wheels are controlled independently
and are on two separate control channels, and the
rear wheels of the vehicle are controlled together.
The system can build and release pressure at each
wheel, depending on signals generated by the wheel
speed sensors (WSS) at each wheel and received at
the controller antilock brake (CAB).
NOISE AND BRAKE PEDAL FEEL
During ABS braking, some brake pedal movement
may be felt. In addition, ABS braking will create
ticking, popping, or groaning noises heard by the
driver. This is normal and is due to pressurized fluid
being transferred between the master cylinder and
the brakes. If ABS operation occurs during hard
braking, some pulsation may be felt in the vehicle
body due to fore and aft movement of the suspension
as brake pressures are modulated.
At the end of an ABS stop, ABS is turned off when
the vehicle is slowed to a speed of 3±4 mph. There
may be a slight brake pedal drop anytime that the
ABS is deactivated, such as at the end of the stop
when the vehicle speed is less than 3 mph or during
an ABS stop where ABS is no longer required. These
conditions exist when a vehicle is being stopped on a
road surface with patches of ice, loose gravel, or sand
on it. Also, stopping a vehicle on a bumpy road sur-
face activates ABS because of the wheel hop caused
by the bumps.
TIRE NOISE AND MARKS
Although the ABS system prevents complete wheel
lockup, some wheel slip is desired in order to achieve
optimum braking performance. Wheel slip is defined
as follows: 0 percent slip means the wheel is rolling
freely and 100 percent slip means the wheel is fully
locked. During brake pressure modulation, wheel slip
is allowed to reach up to 25±30 percent. This means
that the wheel rolling velocity is 25±30 percent less
than that of a free rolling wheel at a given vehicle
speed. This slip may result in some tire chirping,
depending on the road surface. This sound should not
be interpreted as total wheel lockup.Complete wheel lockup normally leaves black tire
marks on dry pavement. The ABS will not leave dark
black tire marks since the wheel never reaches a
fully locked condition. However, tire marks may be
noticeable as light patched marks.
START-UP CYCLE
When the ignition is turned on, a popping sound
and a slight brake pedal movement may be noticed.
The ABS warning lamp will also be on for up to 5
seconds after the ignition is turned on. When the
vehicle is first driven off, a humming may be heard
or felt by the driver at approximately 20±40 kph
(12±25 mph). All of these conditions are a normal
function of ABS as the system is performing a diag-
nosis check.
PREMATURE ABS CYCLING
Symptoms of premature ABS cycling include: click-
ing sounds from the solenoid valves; pump/motor
running; and pulsations in the brake pedal. Prema-
ture ABS cycling can occur at any braking rate of the
vehicle and on any type of road surface. Neither the
red BRAKE warning lamp, nor the amber ABS warn-
ing lamp, illuminate and no fault codes are stored in
the CAB.
Premature ABS cycling is a condition that needs to
be correctly assessed when diagnosing problems with
the antilock brake system. It may be necessary to use
a DRB scan tool to detect and verify premature ABS
cycling.
Check the following common causes when diagnos-
ing premature ABS cycling: damaged tone wheels;
incorrect tone wheels; damaged steering knuckle
wheel speed sensor mounting bosses; loose wheel
speed sensor mounting bolts; excessive tone wheel
runout; or an excessively large tone wheel-to-wheel
speed sensor air gap. Give special attention to these
components when diagnosing a vehicle exhibiting
premature ABS cycling.
After diagnosing the defective component, repair or
replace it as required. When the component repair or
replacement is completed, test drive the vehicle to
verify that premature ABS cycling has been cor-
rected.
OPERATION - ELECTRONIC BRAKE
DISTRIBUTION
Upon entry into EBD the inlet valve for the rear
brake circuit is switched on so that the fluid supply
from the master cylinder is shut off. In order to
decrease the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve for
the rear brake circuit is pulsed. This allows fluid to
enter the low pressure accumulator (LPA) in the
hydraulic control unit (HCU) resulting in a drop in
fluid pressure to the rear brakes. In order to increase
5 - 68 BRAKES - ABSRS
BRAKES - ABS (Continued)

CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(12) Remove vacuum seal located on the mounting
flange of the master cylinder. The vacuum seal is
removed from master cylinder bycarefullypulling it
off the rear of master cylinder.Do not attempt to
pry the seal off the master cylinder by inserting
a sharp tool between seal and master cylinder
casting.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Different types of master cylinders are
used on this vehicle depending on brake options. If
a new master cylinder is being installed, be sure it
is the correct master cylinder for the type of brake
system the vehicle is equipped with.
CAUTION: When replacing the master cylinder on a
vehicle, a NEW vacuum seal MUST be installed on
the master cylinder.
(1) Install a NEW vacuum seal on master cylinder
making sure seal fits squarely in groove of master
cylinder casting.
(2) Position master cylinder on studs of power
brake booster, aligning booster push rod with master
cylinder piston.
(3) Install the two master cylinder mounting nuts
(Fig. 2). Tighten both mounting nuts to a torque of
25 N´m (225 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: When tightening the primary and sec-
ondary brake tube nuts at master cylinder, be sure
brake tubes do not contact any other components
within the vehicle and that there is slack in the flex-
ible sections of the tubes. This is required due to
the movement between the ABS ICU and the master
cylinder while the vehicle is in motion.
(4) Connect primary and secondary brake tubes to
master cylinder primary and secondary ports (Fig. 2).
Brake tubes must be held securely when tightened to
control orientation of flex section. Tighten tube nuts
to a torque of 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.).
(5) Install wiring harness connector to brake fluid
level switch mounted in brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 1).
(6) Install battery, clamp and nut.
(7) Install battery shield.
(8) Connect positive battery terminal.
(9) Connect negative battery terminal.(10) Fill master cylinder with clean, fresh Mopart
Brake Fluid or equivalent.
(11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
brakes.
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/
HVAC HOUSING - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the retaining clip at the torque shaft
end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link. Remove
the link from the torque shaft. Discard the retaining
clip. It is not to be reused. Replace with a new clip
when reassembled.
(4) Locate the booster input rod-to-brake pedal
torque shaft connection and remove the retaining clip
(Fig. 3). Discard the retaining clip. It is not to be
reused. Replace with a new clip when reassembled.
(5) Remove the four (4) brake booster retaining
nuts from inside the passenger compartment (Fig. 4).
(6) Remove the retaining nut from the brake
booster bracket located above the booster in the
engine compartment (Fig. 4).
(7) Remove the power brake booster bracket.
(8) Rotate the pedal torque shaft and remove it out
the left side of the vehicle.
Fig. 3 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER BRACKET
1 - BOOSTER BRACKET
2 - PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
3 - RETAINING CLIP
4 - BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
RGBRAKES - BASE5a-3
MASTER CYLINDER - RHD (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate both ends of the torque shaft with
MS-4517 Lubricant or equivalent and install the
torque shaft from the left side reversing the removal
procedure.
(2) Install the brake booster bracket on the left
end of the shaft.
(3) Install the four brake booster retaining nuts
inside the passenger compartment. Tighten the
mounting nuts to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the retaining nut for the brake booster
bracket in the engine compartment. Tighten the
mounting nuts to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it con-
tacts the booster input rod. Also coat the surface of
the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it contacts
the brake pedal link.
CAUTION: When installing the power brake booster
input rod on the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do
not reuse the old retaining clip.(6) Install booster input rod on brake pedal torque
shaft pin and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 3).
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal link on
the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do not reuse the
old retaining clip.
(7) Connect the brake pedal link to the torque
shaft. Install a NEW retaining clip at the torque
shaft end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link.
(8) Install the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - INSTALLATION)
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(10) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
the brakes.POWER BRAKE BOOSTER -
RHD
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4 or 5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
Fig. 4 BOOSTER, TORQUE SHAFT AND PEDAL
MOUNTING
1 - PEDAL MOUNTING NUT
2 - BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
3 - PEDAL MOUNTING NUT
4 - PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
5 - BOOSTER MOUNTING NUT
6 - BOOSTER BRACKET
7 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
8 - BOOSTER BRACKET MOUNTING NUT
5a - 4 BRAKES - BASERG
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS - IMPROPER CLUTCH RELEASE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC BINDS ON
INPUT SHAFT SPLINESClutch disc hub splines damaged
during installationClean, smooth, and lubricate disc and shaft
splines. Replace modular clutch assembly,
or clutch disc, and/or input shaft if splines
are severely damaged.
Input shaft splines rough, damaged. Clean input shaft splines. Then lube.
Corrosion or rust formations on
splines of input shaft and discClean input shaft splines and disc splines,
then lube
CLUTCH DISC RUSTED
TO FLYWHEEL AND/OR
PRESSURE PLATEOccurs in vehicles stored or not
driven for extended period of time.
Also occurs after steam cleaning if
vehicle is not used for extended
period.Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
CLUTCH WILL NOT
DISENGAGE PROPERLYDisc bent, distorted during transaxle
installationReplace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Clutch cover diaphragm spring
damaged during transaxle installationReplace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Release fork bent, loose, or
damagedReplace fork if worn or damaged
Clutch cable (LHD Models) binding
or routed incorrectly.Check and correct cable routing.
Self-adjuster in cable (LHD Models)
not functioning properly, resulting in
excess cable slack.Pull on cable conduit at transaxle (as if
disconnecting cable) to check adjuster
operation.
Air in clutch hydraulic circuit (RHD
models).Allow system to self-bleed or replace
hydraulic components.
Leak in clutch hydraulic circuit (RHD
models).Replace worn/damaged/leaking hydraulic
components.
Clutch pedal requires
excessive force (high
release load).Clutch cable routed incorrectly (LHD
models).Check and correct cable routing.
Clutch cable is worn, having high
friction or drag (LHD model).Replace clutch release cable.
Clutch disc is worn. Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
models) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD
models) and clutch release cable.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS - CLUTCH PEDAL NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH PEDAL
SQUEAKS WHEN
DEPRESSED TO FLOORPedal bushings worn out or
inadequate lubricationReplace or lubricate bushings at clutch
pedal pivot or master cylinder pushrod.
Clutch pedal return spring worn out Lubricate or replace return spring
CLUTCH PEDAL
SQUEAKS DURING
OPERATIONClutch release lever pivot stud has
inadequate lubricationLubricate or replace clutch release lever
6a - 6 CLUTCHRG
CLUTCH (Continued)

(4) Install clutch release bearing/lever assembly
into position by sliding bearing onto input bearing
retainer, and using moderate hand pressure to seat
release lever to pivot ball(s) (Fig. 27) (Fig. 28). A
ªpopº sound should be heard.Make sure LHD lever
is secured to BOTH pivot balls.Verify proper
engagement by lightly pulling outward on lever at
pivot ball location, and then actuating lever and
bearing to ensure proper operation.MASTER CYLINDER - RHD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove master cylinder to clutch pedal pin
retainer clip. Disengage pushrod from clutch pedal
pin (Fig. 30).
(3) Disengage master cylinder grommet from cowl
panel.
(4) Remove battery and tray.
(5)Diesel models:Remove windshield wiper mod-
ule assembly. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/
WASHERS/WIPER MODULE - REMOVAL)
(6) Discharge Air Conditioning system. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
REFRIGERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(7) Remove suction/discharge line from evaporator
junction block.
(8) Using tool 6638A, disconnect clutch hydraulic
ªquick-connectº fitting (Fig. 29).
(9) Remove clutch master cylinder tubing from
retainers in engine compartment.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder from dash
panel/clutch pedal bracket by rotating 45É clockwise
and pulling outward towards engine (Fig. 30).
(11) Carefully guide clutch master cylinder and
hydraulic plumbing from engine compartment.
Fig. 27 Release Bearing and Lever (LHD)
1 - RELEASE BEARING
2 - RELEASE LEVER
Fig. 28 Release Bearing and Lever (RHD)
1 - RELEASE LEVER
2 - RELEASE BEARING
Fig. 29 Disconnect Quick-Connect Using Tool 6638A
1 - QUICK CONNECT FITTING
2 - TOOL 6638A
RGCLUTCH6a-13
CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER AND BEARING (Continued)