1998 ISUZU TROOPER tire pressure

WHEELS AND TIRES 3E – 5
WHEELS
REPLACEMENT
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive runout must
be replaced.
Wheel Runout at Rim (Based on Hub bore.)
GENERAL BALANCE PROCEDURE
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of
the rim.
The tire should be inspected for the following: match
mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear,
proper wheel size and inflation pressure. Then balance
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance.
Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around
the wheel.
Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a
bouncing action called tramp. This condition will
eventually cause uneven tire wear.
Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on
each side of the wheel center-line so that when the tire
spins there is not tendency for the assembly to move from
side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced
may cause shimmy.
WARNING:
STONES SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM THE TREAD TO
AVOID OPERATOR INJURY DURING SPIN BALANCING
AND TO OBTAIN A GOOD BALANCE.
Steel Aluminum
AVertical play:
Less than mm(in)1.5 (0.059) 0.7 (0.028)
BHorizontal play:
Less than mm(in)1.5 (0.059) 0.7 (0.028)

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4B1±26
DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
3.Case that the indicator keeps blinking by 2Hz
after aforementioned Solution 2 is carried out.
Step
ActionYe sNo
1Check the air pressure and wear of all tires.
Were problems found?Try Solution 2
after adjust the
air pressure and
replace worn
tires.
Go to Step 2
2
Can the transfer lever be operated from High to 4L or vice versa?
Go to Step 3
Disconnection of
the motor
actuator harness
wiring. Trace this
chart from the
start after repair
or replace.
Faults on the
motor actuator.
Trace this chart
from the start
after replace.
Internal faults of
transfer case.
Disassemble the
transfer case for
check. Trace this
chart from the
start after repair
or replace.
3Pull out the hoses from vacuum actuator and operate 4WD
switch.
Is there negative pressure on either of hoses?
Go to Step 4
Faults on the
transfer position
switch or its
harness. Trace
this chart from
the start after
repair or replace.
Faults on the
VSV main body,
its harness or
vacuuming
system. Trace
the front axle
diagnosis chart in
this section.
After that, trace
this chart from
the start.
4Check the axle switch.
Were problems found?
Internal faults on
axle switch.
Trace this chart
from the start
after replace.
Disconnection on
the axle harness.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Faults on Front
Axle ASM. Trace
the front axle
diagnosis chart in
this section.
After that, trace
this chart from
the start.

4B1±28
DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
2.Case that indicator keeps 2Hz blinking after
aforementioned Solution 3 is carried out.
Step
ActionYe sNo
1Check the air pressure and wear of all tires.
Were problems found?Try Solution 3
after adjust the
air pressure and
replace worn
tires.
Go to Step 2
2
Can the transfer lever be operated from High to 4L or vice versa?
Faults on the
harness wiring of
motor actuator.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Internal faults on
transfer case.
Disassemble the
transfer case for
check. Trace this
chart from the
start after repair
or replace.
Faults on the
motor actuator.
Trace this chart
from the start
after or replace.
Go to Step 3
3Pull out the hoses from vacuum actuator and operate 4WD
switch.
Is there negative pressure on either of hoses?
Go to Step 4
Faults on the
transfer position
switch or its
harness. Trace
this chart from
the start after
repair or replace.
Faults on the
VSV main body,
its harness or
vacuuming
system. Trace
the front axle
diagnosis chart in
this section.
After that, trace
this chart from
the start.
4Check the axle switch.
Were problems found?Internal faults on
axle switch.
Trace this chart
from the start
after replace.
Faults on Front
Axle ASM. Trace
the front axle
diagnosis chart in
this section.
After that, trace
this chart from
the start.
Short circuit
(body short) or
disconnection of
the axle harness.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2±86
Diagnosis from Symptom
Troubles that are not indicated by the warning lamp are
listed in the table below. These troubles are caused by
the faults that cannot be detected by the self-diagnostic
function of the control unit.
If this type of trouble is observed, interview the customer
and conduct test runs to reproduce the trouble,cross-check the reported trouble with the listed
phenomena, and diagnose and analyze the trouble on the
item by item basis.
PhenomenaMajor causeCorrective action
1The tight corner braking is ob-
served when the vehicle is subject
to full steering.
The standard tires are not used.

The tire pressure is incorrect.

The tires are worn inuniformity.

The transfer or wiring is
imperfect.

The limited slip differential is
failed.Check and recondition the ve-
hicle according to Chart 1.
2Even if the 4WD SW is select to the
4WD position, the 4WD mode is not
active, resulting in remarkable rear
wheel spin.
The transfer or wiring is
imperfect.

The shift on the fly system is
failed.Check and recondition the ve-
hicle according to Chart 2.
3
When the 4WD SW is select to
the 4WD position, the drive
resistance of the 4WD system is
too large to get sufficient running
speed.

Noised drive line.
The standard tires are not used.

The tire pressure is incorrect.

The tires are worn inuniformity.

The transfer or wiring is
imperfect.

The limited slip differential is Check and recondition the ve-
hicle according to Chart 1.
4The shift on the fly system (front
axle) generates gear noises.
The wiring is imperfect.

The full automatic free wheel
hub is failed.Check and recondition the ve-
hicle according to Chart 3.
5The braking distance gets long
even when the ABS is active.
The wiring is imperfect.

The ABS is failed.Check and recondition the ve-
hicle according to Chart 4.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2±88
StepActionYe sNo
1Are the front and rear tires in specified size?
Go to Step 2
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
2Is the tire pressure correct?
Go to Step 3
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
3Are the tires free from abnormal wear?
Go to Step 4
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
4Are different types of tires used?
Go to Step 5
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
51. Start the engine.
2. Shift the transfer lever to the high (TOD) position.
3. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 6 Go to Step 11
61. Shift the transfer lever to the 2H position.
2. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 7 Go to Step 14
7Is an LSD mounted to the rear differential? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9
8Is the genuine LSD oil used in the rear differential?
Go to Step 9
Replace the
differential oil.
Go to Step 16
9Does the engine output the power correctly?
Go to Step 10
Check the
engine.
Go to Step 16
10Do the speed sensors work correctly? (Check trouble codes.)The ECU has
failed. Replace
the ECU.
Go to Step 16
Replace the
speed sensors.
Go to Step 16
11Is the tight corner braking observed only when the brake is
applied?
Go to Step 12
Conduct full
steering under
WOT.
Go to Step 5
121. Turn off the starter switch.
2. Disconnect the ECU connector.
Is the battery voltage observed between terminals (B±68)6 and
(B±67)11?
Go to Step 13
Repair the circuit
of terminal 6
(ABS IN).
Go to Step 16

POWER ASSISTED BRAKE SYSTEM 5C – 3
BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
ROAD TESTING THE BRAKES
Brake Test
Brakes should be tested on a dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and level roadway. A true test of brake
performance cannot be made if the roadway is wet,
greasy or covered with loose dirt so that all tires do
not grip the road equally. Testing will also be
adversely affected if the roadway is crowned so as to
throw the weight of the vehicle toward wheels on one
side or if the roadway is so rough that wheels tend to
bounce. Test the brakes at different vehicle speeds
with both light and heavy pedal pressure; however,
avoid locking the wheels and sliding the tires. Locked
wheels and sliding tires do not indicate brake
efficiency, since heavily braked but turning wheels
will stop the vehicle in less distance than locked
wheels. More tire-to-road friction is present with a
heavily braked turning tire then with a sliding tire.
The standard brake system is designed and balanced
to avoid locking the wheels except at very high
deceleration levels.
It is designed this way because the shortest stopping
distance and best control is achieved without brake
lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake
Performance
1. Tires: Tires having unequal contact and grip on the
road will cause unequal braking. Tires must be
equally inflated, identical in size, and the tread
pattern of right and left tires must be
approximately equal.
2. Vehicle loading: A heavily loaded vehicle requires
more braking effort.
3. Wheel Alignment: Misalignment of the wheels,
particularly in regard to excessive camber and
caster, will cause the brakes to pull to one side.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in
“Neutral”, depress the brake pedal and hold a
constant foot pressure on the pedal. If pedal gradually
falls away with the constant pressure, the hydraulic
system may be leaking.
Check the master cylinder fluid level. While a slight
drop in reservoir level will result from normal lining
wear, an abnormally low level in resevoir indicates a
leak in the system. The hydraulic system may be
leaking internally as well as externally. Refer to
“Master Cylinder Inspection”. Also, the system may
appear to pass this test but still have slight leakage. If
fluid level is normal, check the vacuum booster push