1997 JAGUAR XJ6 maintenance

components identified. When servicing the
engine or emissions systems, the VECI label
in your particular vehicle should always be
checked for up-to-date information.
2 Electronic control system
and ECU
General description
Note: These models are susceptible to ECU
damage if water is allowed to build up in the
front cowl drain and overspill into the dash
area near the computer. Inspect and clear the
front cowl drain as a regular maintenance item
to keep the water draining properly. Remove
the duckbill-type rubber hose and inspect it
for clogging, collapsing or deterioration.
1The Lucas LH Engine Management system
controls the fuel injection system by means of
a microcomputer known as the Electronic
Control unit (ECU).
2The ECU receives signals from various
sensors which monitor changing engine
operating conditions such as intake air mass,
intake air temperature, coolant temperature,
engine rpm, acceleration/deceleration,
exhaust oxygen content, etc. These signals
are utilised by the ECU to determine the
correct injection duration.
3The system is analogous to the central
nervous system in the human body: The
sensors (nerve endings) constantly relay
signals to the ECU (brain), which processes
the data and, if necessary, sends out a
command to change the operating
parameters of the engine (body).
4Here’s a specific example of how one
portion of this system operates: An oxygen
sensor, located in the exhaust manifold,
constantly monitors the oxygen content of the
exhaust gas. If the percentage of oxygen in
the exhaust gas is incorrect, an electrical
signal is sent to the ECU. The ECU takes this
information, processes it and then sends a
command to the fuel injection system telling it
to change the air/fuel mixture. This happens in
a fraction of a second and it goes on
continuously when the engine is running. The
end result is an air/fuel mixture ratio which is
constantly maintained at a predetermined
ratio, regardless of driving conditions.
5In the event of a sensor malfunction, a
backup circuit will take over to provide
driveability until the problem is identified and
fixed.
Precautions
6Follow these steps:
a) Always disconnect the power by either
turning off the ignition switch or
disconnecting the battery terminals before
removing electrical connectors.
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent accidental deployment ofthe airbag, which could cause personal
injury, DO NOT work in the vicinity of the
steering column or instrument panel. The
manufacturer recommends that, on airbag
equipped models, the following procedure
should be left to a dealer service
department or other repair workshop
because of the special tools and techniques
required to disable the airbag system.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
b) When refitting a battery, be particularly
careful to avoid reversing the positive and
negative battery cables. Also, make sure
the ignition key is in the Off position when
connecting or disconnecting the battery.
c) Do not subject EFI components,
emissions-related components or the
ECU to severe impact during removal or
refitting.
d) Do not be careless during fault diagnosis.
Even slight terminal contact can invalidate
a testing procedure and damage one of
the numerous transistor circuits.
e) Never attempt to work on the ECU or
open the ECU cover. The ECU is
protected by a government-mandated
extended warranty that will be nullified if
you tamper with or damage the ECU.
f) If you are inspecting electronic control
system components during rainy weather,
make sure that water does not enter any
part. When washing the engine
compartment, do not spray these parts or
their electrical connectors with water.
g) These models are susceptible to ECU
damage if water is allowed to build up in
the front cowl drain and overspill into the
dash area. Inspect and clear the front
cowl drain system as a regular
maintenance item to keep the water
draining properly. Remove the duckbill
type rubber hose and inspect it for
clogging, collapsing or deterioration.
ECU removal and refitting
7Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery (see Chapter 5).
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent the accidental deploy-
ment of the airbag, which could
cause personal injury, DO NOT work in the
vicinity of the steering column or
instrument panel. The manufacturer
recommends that, on airbag equipped
models, the following procedure should be
left to a dealer service department or other
repair workshop because of the special
tools and techniques required to disable
the airbag system.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.8Remove the lower instrument panel on the
passenger side under the glove compartment
(see Chapter 11).
9Remove the glove compartment from the
passenger compartment (see Chapter 11).
10Remove the screws from the ECU bracket
(see illustration).
11Lower the ECU and unplug the electrical
connectors.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.
3 On Board Diagnosis (OBD)
system- description and fault
code access
2
Note: 1990 and 1991 models may set
Code 69 erroneously. If the battery voltage
drops sufficiently and the ignition key is
switched quickly from OFF to START, battery
voltage will be lowered and during cranking
causing a delayed park/neutral signal from the
decoder module to the ECU. Check all the
battery connections and the condition of the
battery and then check the rotary switch
adjustment in Chapter 7 to remedy this code.
General information
1The ECU contains a built-in self-diagnosis
system which detects and identifies
malfunctions occurring in the network. When
the ECU detects a problem, three things
happen: the CHECK ENGINE light comes on,
the fault is identified and a diagnostic code is
recorded and stored. The ECU stores the
failure code assigned to the specific problem
area until the diagnosis system is cancelled.
Note: 1988 and 1989 models are not
equipped with long term memory. It is
possible to access the codes but the operator
must remember to NOT turn the ignition key to
the OFF position after the CHECK ENGINE
light has been noticed. The codes will be lost
and it will be necessary to start the engine and
operate the vehicle through a complete drive
cycle to allow the fault code(s) to be set once
again. Instead of turning the ignition key to the
OFF position, simply stop at position II (key
ON but engine not running) to retain the fault
codes.
6•2 Emissions and engine control systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6
2.10 The ECU is located behind the
passenger’s side glovebox near the footrest
area. Remove the mounting screws
(arrowed) and carefully lower the ECU

3261 Jaguar XJ6
11
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Body - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Body repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Body repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bonnet and boot lid support struts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 9
Bonnet release latch and cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Boot lid latch and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Cowl cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Dashboard trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting . . . . . . 20
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Door window glass regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Instrument cluster housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Outside mirrors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Steering column cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Vinyl trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Windscreen and fixed glass - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
11•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
These models feature a “unibody”
construction, using a floor pan with front and
rear frame side rails which support the body
components, front and rear suspension
systems and other mechanical components.
Certain components are particularly vulnerable
to accident damage and can be unbolted and
repaired or replaced. Among these parts are
the body mouldings, bumpers, front wings,
bonnet and boot lids and all glass.
Only general body maintenance practices
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Body- maintenance
1
1The condition of your vehicle’s body is very
important, because the resale value depends
a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to
repair a neglected or damaged body than it is
to repair mechanical components. The hidden
areas of the body, such as the wheel wells,
the frame and the engine compartment, areequally important, although they don’t require
as frequent attention as the rest of the body.
2Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a
good idea to have the underside of the body
steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be
removed and the area can then be inspected
carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed
electrical wires, damaged cables and other
problems. The front suspension components
should be greased after completion of this job.
3At the same time, clean the engine and the
engine compartment with a steam cleaner or
water soluble degreaser.
4The wheel wells should be given close
attention, since undercoating can peel away
and stones and dirt thrown up by the tyres
can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing
rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to
the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.
5The body should be washed about once a
week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the
dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and
plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt
is not washed off very carefully, it can wear
down the paint.
6Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the
road should be removed with a cloth soaked
in solvent.
7Once every six months, wax the body and
chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to
remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated
parts, remember that the cleaner also removes
part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.
3 Vinyl trim- maintenance
1
Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents,
caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.
Plain soap and water works just fine, with a
soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained.
Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the
vehicle.
After cleaning, application of a high quality
rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent
oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also
be applied to weather-stripping, vacuum lines
and rubber hoses (which often fail as a result
of chemical degradation) and to the tyres.
4 Upholstery and carpets-
maintenance
1
1Every three months remove the carpets or
mats and clean the interior of the vehicle
(more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the
upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt
and dust.
2Leather upholstery requires special care.
Stains should be removed with warm water
and a very mild soap solution. Use a clean,
damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe

spray painting technique is mastered. Cover
the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The
thickness should be built up using several thin
layers of primer rather than one thick one.
Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is very
smooth. While doing this, the work area
should be thoroughly rinsed with water and
the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed
as well. Allow the primer to dry before
spraying additional coats.
21Spray on the top coat, again building up
the thickness by using several thin layers of
paint. Begin spraying at the top of the repair
area and then, using a side-to-side motion,
work down until the whole repair area and
about two inches of the surrounding original
paint is covered. Remove all masking material
10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final
coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing
compound to blend the edges of the new
paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a
coat of wax.
6 Body repair- major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by an auto
body workshop specifically equipped to
perform unibody repairs. These workshops
have the specialised equipment required to
do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the body must
be checked for proper alignment or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that most of the major body
components (bonnet, front wings, etc.) are
separate and replaceable units, any seriously
damaged components should be replaced
rather than repaired. Sometimes thecomponents can be found in a scrapyard that
specialises in used vehicle components, often
at considerable savings over the cost of new
parts.
7 Hinges and locks-
maintenance
1
Once every 3000 miles, or every three
months, the hinges and latch assemblies on
the doors, bonnet and boot should be given a
few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The
door latch strikers should also be lubricated
with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and
ensure free movement. Lubricate the door
and boot locks with spray-on graphite
lubricant.
8 Windscreen and fixed glass-
replacement
5
Replacement of the windscreen and fixed
glass requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive/caulk materials and some
specialised tools. It is recommended that
these operations be left to a dealer or a
workshop specialising in glass work.
9 Bonnet and boot lid support
struts- removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet or boot lid and support it
securely.
2Using a small screwdriver, detach the
retaining clips at both ends of the support
strut. Then pry or pull sharply to detach it from
the vehicle(see illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Bonnet- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Note:The bonnet is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Use blankets or pads to cover the wings
and the area in front of the bonnet. This will
protect the body and paint as the bonnet is
lifted off.
2Make marks or scribe a line around the
bonnet hinge to ensure proper alignment
during refitting.
3Disconnect any cables or wires that will
interfere with removal.
4Have an assistant support the bonnet.
Remove the hinge-to-bonnet screws or bolts
(see illustration).
5Lift off the bonnet.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
7Before the bonnet can be adjusted
properly, both bonnet striker assemblies
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
1110.4 With the help of an assistant to hold
the bonnet, remove the retaining bolts
(arrowed) from each hinge plate, then lift
off the bonnet
3261 Jaguar XJ69.2b The boot lid support strut requires prising out a locking pin
to detach it from the locating stud
9.2a Use a small screwdriver to prise the clip out of its locking
groove, then detach the end of the strut from the mounting stud

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•4Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should be clean.
Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg, badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy
materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, light bulbs, drivebelts, greases, brake
pads, touch-up paint, etc). Components of
this nature sold by a reputable shop are
usually of the same standard as those used
by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found close to home.
Some accessory shops have parts counters
where components needed for almost any
repair job can be purchased or ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg, brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves). They may also handle work such as
cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding,
etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk of financial loss, and
also of an accident causing injury or death.
Second-hand parts or assemblies obtained
from a car breaker can be a good buy in some
circumstances, but this sort of purchase is
best made by the experienced DIY mechanic.
Vehicle identification
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
identification numbers being essential to
correct identification of the part concerned.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture and registration,
chassis and engine numbers as appropriate.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate is attached to the base of the driver’s
door pillar left-hand wing valance and is
visible once the bonnet has been opened. The
vehicle identification (chassis) number is also
stamped onto a plate located inside the
windscreen and may also be stamped onto
the right-hand inner wing panel in the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
The trim code and paint codeare also
stamped onto the VIN plate.
The engine numberis stamped onto the
right-hand side of the cylinder block, next to
the distributor (see illustration).
The automatic transmission numberis
stamped onto a metal label attached to the
left-hand side of the transmission housing,
just above the sump (see illustration).The VIN is stamped on the right inner wing
panel of the engine compartment
The engine identification number is
stamped on the right side of the engine
block just behind the distributorThe transmission identification number is
located on the left side of the transmission
housing just above the sump
The VIN is also present on the left side of
the dashboard

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•6Tools and working facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
and minor repair tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert) -
petrol models
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol
models
MSet of feeler blades
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches.
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by tools from the Speciallist:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive
Clutch plate alignment setPiston ring compressorSpline bit set
Valve spring compressor

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Tools and working facilitiesREF•7
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a dealer.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
Reputable motor accessory shops and
superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market
stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of
good tools around at reasonable prices, but
always aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, a
suitable working area becomes essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints etc, which become necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
Stroboscopic timing light Stud extractor setCompression tester
Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)Micrometer set

3261 Jaguar XJ6
NNeutral start switch -7•5
Notes for UK readers -0•4, REF•3
Number plate light - 12•12
OObtaining diagnostic code output -6•3
Oil cooler -3•6
Oil filter -1•6
Oil gauge - 12•7
Oil pump -2A•15
Oil seals -2A•5, 2A•17, 2B•17, 7•7, 8•4, 8•5, REF•5
Oil,differential -1•2, 1•11, 1•20
Oil,engine -0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•6
On Board Diagnosis (OBD) system -6•2
Open circuit check - 12•2
Output shaft -7•7
Oxygen sensor -6•4
PPads (brake) -9•1, 9•2
Painting - 11•2
Parking lights - 12•11
Piston rings -2B•15
Pistons -2B•9, 2B•12, 2B•17
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power hydraulic system -0•16
fluid - 1•9
Power steering - 10•10, 10•11
fluid - 0•13, 0•16
Propshaft -1•18, 8•1, 8•2, 8•3
Punctures- 0•8
RRadiator -3•4
grille - 11•5
Radio - 12•7, REF•1
Rear lights - 12•12
Receiver/drier -3•12
Regulator (window) - 11•10
Relays - 12•3
Repair procedures - REF•5
Reversing lights -7•5, 12•12
Road test -1•14
Roadside repairs-0•6et seq
Routine maintenance and servicing-1•1et seq
Rust holes - 11•2
SSafety first -0•5
Scalding -0•5
Scratches - 11•2Screw threads and fastenings - REF•5
Seat belts -1•13, REF•9
Seats - 11•14, REF•9
Self-levelling rear suspension system - 10•3
Servo -1•12, 9•1, 9•9
Shift cable -7•4
Shock absorber - 10•4, 10•6, REF•9, REF•10
Shoes (brake) -1•20, 9•11
Short circuit check - 12•1
Side marker lights - 12•11
Spare parts - REF•4
Spark plugs -1•7, 1•14
Speakers - 12•7
Speed sensor -6•7
Spoiler - 11•5
Springs - 10•5, 10•6, REF•10
Starter motor -5•7
Steering - See Suspension and steering systems
Steering wheel and column - 11•13, 12•5, REF•8
Sump -2A•14
Sunroof - 12•14
Supplementary air valve -4•13
Suspension and steering systems- 1•12, 10•1et seq, REF•9, REF•10
fault finding - REF•16, REF•17
Switches -4•1, 7•5, 9•13, 12•5, 12•6, 12•12
TTail lights - 12•12
Temperature gauge - 12•7
Temperature sender unit -3•7
Thermostat -3•2
Throttle body -4•10
Throttle potentiometer -6•5
Tie-rod ends - 10•9
Timing chains -2A•6
Tools - REF•5, REF•6, REF•7
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston -2A•2
Torque converter -7•7
Towing -0•6
Trim panels - 11•7, 11•13
Tyres - 0•14, 10•11, REF•11
UUK readers information -0•4, REF•3
Universal joint -8•1, 8•2, 8•5
Upholstery - 11•1
VVacuum gauge checks -2B•3
Valve cover -2A•3
Valve lifters -2A•9
Valves -2B•8
Vehicle identification - REF•4, REF•9
Vehicle support - REF•1
Vinyl trim - 11•1
Voltage checks - 12•1
REF•24Index