1997 JAGUAR XJ6 bolt pattern

position, a worn or weak shock absorber is
probably the reason.
4Repeat the above check at each of the
three remaining corners of the vehicle.
Under the vehicle
5Raise the vehicle with a trolley jack and
support it securely on axle stands. See
“Jacking and towing”for proper jacking
points.
6Check the shock absorbers for evidence of
fluid leakage. Make sure that any fluid noted is
from the shocks and not from any other
source. Also check the rubber mounts at each
end for deterioration If the shock absorbers
fail any of the tests above replace the shocks
as a set.
7Check the tyres for irregular wear patterns
and proper inflation. See “Weekly checks”for
information regarding tyre wear.
8Inspect the universal joint between the
steering shaft and the steering gear housing.
Check the steering gear housing for grease
leakage. Make sure that the dust seals and
boots are not damaged and that the boot
clamps are not loose (see illustration). Check
the steering linkage for looseness or damage.
Look for loose bolts, broken or disconnected
parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all
suspension and steering components (see
illustration). While an assistant turns the
steering wheel from side to side, check the
steering components for free movement,
chafing and binding. If the steering
components do not seem to be reacting with
the movement of the steering wheel, try to
determine where the slack is located.
9Check the balljoints moving each lower arm
up and down with a crowbar to ensure that its
balljoint has no play. If any balljoint does have
play, replace it. See Chapter 10 for the front
balljoint renewal procedure. Check the tie-rod
ends for excessive play.
10Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end boots
for damage and leaking grease (see
illustration. Replace the balljoints and tie-rod
ends with new ones if they are damaged (see
Chapter 10).
13 Seat belt check
1
1Check the seat belts, buckles, latch plates
and guide loops for any obvious damage or
signs of wear.
2Make sure the seat belt reminder light
comes on when the key is turned on.
3The seat belts are designed to lock up
during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free
movement during normal driving. The
retractors should hold the belt against your
chest while driving and rewind the belt when
the buckle is unlatched.
4If any of the above checks reveal problems
with the seat-belt system, replace parts as
necessary.Note:Check with your local dealer
service department; the seat belt system
should be covered under the factory warranty.
14 General lubrication
2
1Obtain a good quality, multi-purpose
lithium-base grease. You’ll also need a grease
gun and other materials to properly lubricate
the chassis (see illustration). Occasionallyplugs will be installed rather than grease
fittings. If so, grease fittings will have to be
purchased and installed.
2Look under the car and see if grease fittings
or plugs are installed. If there are plugs,
remove them and buy grease fittings, which
will thread into the component. A dealer or
motor factors will be able to supply the
correct fittings. Straight, as well as angled,
fittings are available.
3For easier access under the car, raise it with
a jack and place axle stands under the
chassis. Make sure it’s safely supported by
the stands. If the wheels are to be removed at
this interval for tyre rotation or brake
inspection, loosen the wheel nuts slightly
while the car is still on the ground.
4Before beginning, force a little grease out of
the nozzle to remove any dirt from the end of
the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a rag.
5With the grease gun and plenty of clean
rags, crawl under the car and begin
lubricating all the front suspension parts that
are equipped with a grease fitting.
6Lubricate the rear driveshafts (see
illustration). Wipe each fitting clean and push
the nozzle firmly over it. Pump the gun until
grease is expelled from the U-joint cap seal.
7Wipe away any excess grease from the
components and the grease fitting. Repeat
the procedure for the remaining fittings.
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•13
1
14.1 Materials required for chassis
and body lubrication
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.8a Check the steering gear dust boots
for cracks and leaking steering fluid
12.8b Check the anti-roll bar bushings
(arrowed) for deterioration at the front and
the rear of the vehicle12.10 Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end
boots for tears - tears or damage in either
boot will allow contamination of the grease
which will lead to premature failure
1 Engine oil - Light engine oil in a can like
this can be used for door and bonnet
hinges
2 Graphite spray - Used to lubricate lock
cylinders
3 Grease - Grease, in a variety of types and
weights, is available for use in a grease
gun.
4 Grease gun - A common grease gun,
shown here with a detachable hose and
nozzle, is needed for chassis lubrication.
After use, clean it thoroughly

Refitting
5Remove all traces of old gasket material
and sealant from the engine block and sump.
Clean the mating surface with lacquer thinner
or acetone.
Caution: Do not use a sharp scraping tool.
Both the sump and the engine block are
aluminium and could be easily damaged.
6Make sure the threaded bolt holes in the
engine block and bellhousing are clean.
7Inspect the flange of the sump for any
cracks, pits or scratches that could cause an
oil leak.
8Remove the baffle plate at the rear of the
sump (see illustration). Clean the sump area
and the baffle, then refit the baffle.
9Inspect the oil pump pickup tube for
cracks, or foreign material blocking the screen
(see illustration).
10Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sump
flange(see illustration). Note:The sump
must be installed within 5 minutes of sealer
application.
11Carefully position the sump on the engine
block and push it toward the transmission
adapter plate as you press it against the
engine block. Loosely refit four bolts, two on
each side of the sump. Tighten the four bolts
in a criss-cross pattern to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, then loosen
each bolt 90°.
12Refit the two engine adapter-to-sump
bolts. Tighten the two bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, then
loosen each one 180°.
13Refit the remainder of the sump-to-engine
block bolts hand tight until all are installed,
then tighten them to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Lastly, tighten the
two adapter-to-sump bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Caution: Failure to follow this tightening
procedure could stress or possibly crack
the adapter plate.
14The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to add oil and refit a new oil
filter.
15Run the engine and check for oil pressure
and leaks.13 Oil pump- removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the sump (see Section 12).
2Unbolt the oil pickup tube and oil transfer
housing from the engine block (see
illustration). Note:Have a drain pan under the
transfer housing, as oil may drip out when the
housing is loosened from the engine block.
3Carefully pull the transfer housing and
transfer tubes to the rear to separate them
from the oil pump body.
4Bend back the locking tabs and remove thethree bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the oil pump (see illustration).
Pull the chain and sprocket from the front of
the pump. Note:There are shims between the
sprocket and the pump. Collect them while
pulling off the sprocket.
5Remove the bolts and detach the oil pump
from the engine.
6Remove all traces of sealant and old gasket
material from the oil pump body and engine
block, then clean the mating surfaces with
lacquer thinner or acetone.
7Remove the screws and separate the front
and rear pump covers from the body. Lift out
the drive and driven rotors (see illustrations).
Note:Mark the front face of each rotor before
removing them.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•15
2A
12.8 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and the
sheetmetal baffle plate - clean the sump
area of the sump with the baffle removed12.9 Lubrication system components
A Oil pump
B Transfer tubesC Transfer housing
D Oil pump pickup12.10 Apply a bead of RTV sealant around
the perimeter of the sump mounting
flange, be sure to run the bead around the
outside all bolt the holes
13.7a Remove the bolts and separate the
front and rear pump covers13.7b Remove the outer rotor (A)
and inner rotor (B)
13.2 Unbolt the oil pump pickup (A) and
the bolts (B) retaining the transfer
assembly (C) to the engine block13.4 Pry back the locking tabs and remove
the three bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the pump
3261 Jaguar XJ6

Inspection
8Clean and dry the pump body and both
rotors. Measure the outside diameter of the
outer rotor and thickness of both rotors.
9Place the outer rotor into the pump body
and use feeler gauges to measure the
clearance between the outer rotor and the
body (see illustration).
10Place a straightedge across the pump
body and measure between the straightedge
and the rotors to check the over-the-rotor
clearance (see illustration). Compare your
measurements to this Chapter’s Specifications
and renew the oil pump if any are beyond the
maximum allowable.
11Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap.
Remove and clean the relief valve components
(see illustration).
12Clean all components with solvent and
inspect them for wear and damage. If
excessive wear, damage or if any clearance is
beyond the Specifications, renew the entire
pump as an assembly.
13Check the oil pressure relief valve piston
sliding surface and valve spring. If either the
spring or the valve is damaged, they must be
renewed as a set.
Refitting
14Lubricate the drive and driven rotors with
clean engine oil and place them in the casewith the marks facing out. Apply a thin coat
of anaerobic sealant (Loctite 510 or 518) to
the gasket flange and refit the cover (see
illustration).
15Lubricate the oil pressure relief valve
piston with clean engine oil and refit the valve
components into the oil pump body (see
illustration 13.11).
16Apply a thin coat of anaerobic sealant
(Loctite 510 or 518) to the oil pump-to-engine
block-mounting surface, position the oil pump
body against the engine block and refit the
mounting bolts, tightening the bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Follow a criss-cross pattern when tightening
the bolts to avoid warping the oil pump body.
17If using the original oil pump, refit the
original sprocket shim pack (see illustration).
If a new pump is installed, start off with a
0.38 mm (0.015-inch) thick shim pack, refit the
drive sprocket and align the sprocket as
follows.
18Use a straightedge to check the alignment
of the oil pump sprocket with the crankshaft
sprocket (see illustration). If they are not
aligned, increase or decrease the shim pack at
the oil pump sprocket until alignment is correct,
then secure the oil pump sprocket bolts by
bending up the sheetmetal tabs. Note:You
may be able to use all or part of the original
shim pack from the original oil pump (if a new
pump is being fitted). If required, shims areavailable in 0.127 mm (0.005 inch), 0.254 mm
(0.010 inch) and 0.508 mm (0.020 inch) sizes.
19Fit new O-rings to each end of the transfer
tubes and refit the tubes into the transfer
housing. Note:Use petroleum jelly to lubricate
the O-rings.
20Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the
engine block-mounting surface of the transfer
housing. Lift the transfer housing and tubes
into place and push the front of the tubes
in the back of the oil pump, until you can start
the transfer housing-to-engine block bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
21Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal.
22Add oil, start the engine and check for oil
pressure and leaks.
23Recheck the engine oil level.
14 Driveplate-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Raise the car and support it securely on
axle stands, then refer to Chapter 7 and
remove the transmission. If it’s leaking, now
would be a very good time to renew the front
pump seal/O-ring.
2A•16 Engine in-car repair procedures
13.9 Measure the outer rotor-to-body
clearance with feeler gauges (arrowed)13.10 With a straightedge held tight to the
pump surface, measure the clearance over
the rotors with feeler gauges13.11 Oil pressure relief valve components
A Relief valve cap
B TubeC Spring
D Valve
13.14 Apply a thin coat anaerobic sealant
(Loctite 510 or 518) to the pump cover
sealing surface
13.17 Refit the original shim pack
(arrowed) if the original pump is being
used - if a new pump is being installed,
refit a 0.38 mm (0.015-inch) shim pack
3261 Jaguar XJ6
13.18 Check the oil pump and crankshaft
sprocket alignment with a straightedge -
add or subtract shims until the sprockets
are aligned for smooth chain operation

2Use a centre punch or paint to make
alignment marks on the driveplate and
crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during
refitting(see illustration).
3Remove the bolts that secure the driveplate
to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns,
wedge a screwdriver through a hole in the
driveplate to keep it from turning (see
illustration).
4Remove the driveplate from the crankshaft.
A spacer is located behind the driveplate(see
illustration). Pry it off and store it with the
driveplate.
Warning: The ring-gear teeth
may be sharp, wear gloves to
protect your hands when
handling the driveplate.
Refitting
5Clean the driveplate to remove grease and
oil. Inspect the surface for cracks. Check for
cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Note:If
there is any damage to the driveplate, replace
the driveplate with a new driveplate, a new
spacer and new bolts. Improved parts are
available as a set from the dealer.
6Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the driveplate and the crankshaft. If the
crankshaft rear seal is leaking, renew it before
refitting the driveplate (see Section 15).
7Position the driveplate against the
crankshaft. Be sure to align the marks made
during removal. Some models may have an
alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to
ensure correct refitting. Before refitting the
bolts, apply thread-locking compound to the
bolt threads.
8Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth
to keep the driveplate from turning and tighten
the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Follow a criss-cross pattern
and work up to the final torque in three or four
steps.
9The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
the removal procedure.
15 Crankshaft rear oil seal-
renewal
4
1The transmission adapter plate and
driveplate must be removed from the car for
this procedure (see Chapter 7).
2Remove the bolts, and detach the oil seal
retainer. Remove the gasket material from the
block and the seal retainer (see illustration).
3Position the oil seal and retainer assembly
between two wood blocks on a workbench
and drive the old seal out from the backside
(see illustration).
4The new seal must be driven into the
retainer plate from the engine side. Drive thenew seal into the retainer with a wood block
or a section of pipe slightly smaller in diameter
than the outside diameter of the seal (see
illustration). The seal should be driven in only
until it is flush with the transmission side of
the retainer.
Caution: The new seal comes with a
special plastic refitting sleeve inserted in
the seal. It is designed to allow the seal to
slide over the end of the crankshaft
without displacing the seal lip. Do NOT
remove this plastic sleeve until the retainer
and seal have been installed on the engine.
5Lubricate the seal area of the crankshaft
with engine oil. Apply a bead of RTV sealant
to the sealing surface of the retainer (see
illustration).
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•17
2A
14.2 Mark the driveplate and the
crankshaft so they can be reassembled in
the same relative position14.3 Use a screwdriver to secure the
flywheel while the bolts are removed14.4 Pry off the driveplate spacer - if a
driveplate is replaced, the spacer should
be replaced also
15.2 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and the
crankshaft rear oil seal retainer from the
back of the engine block15.3 After removing the retainer assembly
from the engine block, support it between
two wood blocks and drive out the old seal
with a drift punch and hammer
15.4 Drive the new seal into the retainer
with a wood block
3261 Jaguar XJ6
15.5 Apply RTV sealant
to the sealing surface

done during the engine overhaul. Note:If the
engine was severely overheated, the cylinder
head is probably warped (see paragraph 12).
Cleaning
2Scrape all traces of old gasket material and
sealing compound off the cylinder head
gasket, intake manifold and exhaust manifold
sealing surfaces. Be very careful not to gouge
the cylinder head. Special gasket-removal
solvents that soften gaskets and make
removal much easier are available at car
accessory outlets.
3Remove all built up scale from the coolant
passages.
4Run a stiff wire brush through the various
holes to remove deposits that may have
formed in them. If there are heavy deposits in
the water passages, the bare head should be
professionally cleaned at a machine
workshop.
5Run an appropriate-size tap into each of the
threaded holes to remove corrosion and
any thread sealant that may be present. If
compressed air is available, use it to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
6Clean the exhaust and intake manifold stud
threads with a wire brush.
7Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry
it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the
drying process and ensure that all holes and
recessed areas are clean. Note:Decarbonising
chemicals are available and may prove very
useful when cleaning cylinder heads and valve
train components. They are very caustic and
should be used with caution. Be sure to follow
the instructions on the container.
8Clean the lifters with solvent and dry themthoroughly. Compressed air will speed the
drying process and can be used to clean out
the oil passages. Don’t mix them up during
cleaning - keep them in a box with numbered
compartments.
9Clean all the valve springs, spring seats,
keepers and retainers with solvent and dry
them thoroughly. Work on the components
from one valve at a time to avoid mixing up
the parts.
10Scrape off any heavy deposits that may
have formed on the valves, then use a
motorised wire brush to remove deposits from
the valve heads and stems. Again, make sure
that the valves don’t get mixed up.
Inspection
Note:Be sure to perform all of the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
machine workshop work is required. Make a
list of the items that need attention. The
inspection procedures for the lifters and
camshafts, can be found in Part A.
Cylinder head
11Inspect the cylinder head very carefully for
cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other
damage. If cracks are found, check with an
automotive machine workshop concerning
repair. If repair isn’t possible, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
12A common problem on aluminium engines
is erosion of the cylinder head or engine block
coolant passages due to improper sealing.
Using a new cylinder head gasket held
against the cylinder head, trace the bolt holes
and coolant passage outlines in pencil on the
cylinder head. Use the gasket to trace the
same on the top of the engine block (see
illustration). If the top of the engine block has
eroded outsideof the pattern around thewater passages or cylinder head bolt holes,
the engine block must be renewed; the
manufacturer doesn’t recommend resurfacing
it. If the cylinder head has eroded outside of
the water passage holes but the erosion is
away fromthe combustion chamber, the
eroded area can be built up with metal-
impregnated epoxy and machined flat again.
13Using a straightedge and feeler gauge,
check the cylinder head gasket mating
surface (on the engine block and cylinder
head) for warpage (see illustration). If the
warpage exceeds the limit found in this
Chapter’s Specifications, it can be resurfaced
at an automotive machine workshop, but no
more then 0.010-inch of material should be
removed. If the cylinder head had been
overheated, take it to the machinist for
inspection before proceeding further. It’s
possible that the overheating could have
annealed (softened) the aluminium of the
cylinder head, making it unsuitable for
machine work. In this case, a new cylinder
head is required.
Note 1:To check if a cylinder head has been
machined previously, measure the height
between the cylinder head gasket surface and
the valve cover mounting surface with a large
micrometer or vernier caliper and compare
with Specifications.
Note 2:Jaguar aluminium cylinder heads
require precision machine work. It is best to
find a machine workshop that has
considerable experience in servicing Jaguar
cylinder heads.
14Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they’re pitted,
cracked or burned, the cylinder head will
require valve service that’s beyond the scope
of the home mechanic.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•7
2B
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.12 Place the new head gasket on the engine block, and trace
around the water passages and bolt holes - make sure there is no
erosion of the aluminium beyond these lines
10.13 Check the cylinder head and engine block gasket surfaces
for warpage by trying to slip a feeler gauge under a precision
straightedge (see the Specifications for the maximum warpage
allowed and use a feeler gauge of that thickness) - check both the
cylinder head and engine block (shown)

is the difference between the parallel and
perpendicular readings. Compare your results
to this Chapter’s Specifications.
8If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or
scored, or if they’re out-of-round or tapered
beyond the limits given in this Chapter’s
Specifications, have the engine block rebored
and honed at an automotive machine
workshop. If a rebore is done, oversize
pistons and rings will be required.
9Using a precision straightedge and feeler
gauge, check the engine block deck (the
surface that mates with the cylinder head) for
distortion (see illustration 10.13). If it’s
distorted beyond the specified limit, it can be
resurfaced by an automotive machine
workshop.
10If the cylinders are in reasonably good
condition and not worn to the outside of the
limits, and if the piston-to-cylinder clearances
can be maintained properly, then they don’t
have to be rebored. Honing is all that’s
necessary (refer to Section 17).
17 Cylinder honing
3
1Prior to engine reassembly, the cylinder
bores must be honed so the new piston rings
will seat correctly and provide the best
possible combustion chamber seal. Note:If
you don’t have the tools or don’t want to
tackle the honing operation, most automotive
machine shops will do it for a reasonable fee.
2Before honing the cylinders, refit the main
bearing caps (without bearing inserts) and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
3Two types of cylinder hones are commonly
available - the flex hone or “bottle brush” type
and the more traditional surfacing hone with
spring-loaded stones. Both will do the job, but
for the less-experienced mechanic the “bottle
brush” hone will probably be easier to use.
You’ll also need some paraffin or honing oil,
rags and a variable-speed electric drill motor.
The drill motor should be operated at a
steady, slow speed. Proceed as follows:
a) Mount the hone in the drill motor,
compress the stones and slip it into the
first cylinder (see illustration).
Warning: Be sure to wear safety
goggles or a face shield!
b) Lubricate the cylinder with plenty of
honing oil, turn on the drill and move the
hone up-and-down in the cylinder at a
pace that will produce a fine crosshatch
pattern on the cylinder walls. Ideally, the
crosshatch lines should intersect at
approximately a 60° angle (see
illustration). Be sure to use plenty of
lubricant and don’t take off any more
material than is absolutely necessary to
produce the desired finish. Note:Piston
ring manufacturers may specify a smallercrosshatch angle than the traditional 60° -
read and follow any instructions included
with the new rings.
c) Don’t withdraw the hone from the cylinder
while it’s running. Instead, shut off the drill
and continue moving the hone up-and-
down in the cylinder until it comes to a
complete stop, then compress the stones
and withdraw the hone. If you’re using a
“bottle brush” type hone, stop the drill
motor, then turn the chuck in the normal
direction of rotation while withdrawing the
hone from the cylinder.
d) Wipe the oil out of the cylinder and repeat
the procedure for the remaining cylinders.
4After the honing job is complete, chamfer
the top edges of the cylinder bores with a
small file so the rings won’t catch when the
pistons are installed. Be very careful not to
nick the cylinder walls with the end of the file.
5The entire engine block must be washed
again very thoroughly with warm, soapy water
to remove all traces of the abrasive grit
produced during the honing operation. Note:
The bores can be considered clean when a
lint-free white cloth - dampened with clean
engine oil - used to wipe them out doesn’t
pick up any more honing residue, which will
show up as grey areas on the cloth. Be sure to
run a brush through all oil holes and galleries
and flush them with running water.
6After rinsing, dry the engine block and
apply a coat of light rust preventive oil to all
machined surfaces. Wrap the engine block in
a plastic bag to keep it clean and set it aside
until reassembly.
18 Pistons/connecting rods-
inspection
2
1Before the inspection process can be
carried out, the piston/connecting rod
assemblies must be cleaned and the original
piston rings removed from the pistons. Note:
Always use new piston rings when the engine
is reassembled.
2Using a piston ring refitting tool, carefully
remove the rings from the pistons. Be careful
not to nick or gouge the pistons in the
process.
3Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of
the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a piece
of fine emery cloth can be used once the
majority of the deposits have been scraped
away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a
wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove
deposits from the pistons. The piston material
is soft and may be eroded away by the wire
brush.
4Use a piston ring groove-cleaning tool to
remove carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. If a tool isn’t available, a piece
broken off the old ring will do the job. Be very
careful to remove only the carbon deposits -
don’t remove any metal and do not nick or
scratch the sides of the ring grooves (see
illustrations).
5Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/connecting rod assemblies
with solvent and dry them with compressed
air (if available). Make sure the oil return holes
2B•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
17.3a A “bottle brush” hone will produce
better results if you have never done
cylinder honing before17.3b The cylinder hone should leave a
smooth, crosshatch pattern with the lines
intersecting at approximately a 60° angle
18.4a The piston ring grooves can be
cleaned with a special tool, as shown . . .18.4b . . . or a section of a broken ring
3261 Jaguar XJ6

6Be sure to buy new pads with wear
sensors. Pattern pads may not have wear
sensors; refitting pads without wear sensors
will cause the dash warning light to come on.
7To refit the new pads, reverse the removal
procedure. When refitting the caliper, be sure
to tighten the mounting bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8After the job is completed, depress the
brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into
contact with the discs. The pedal should be at
normal height above the floorpan and firm.
Check the brake fluid level and add enough to
top it up (see Chapter 1). Inspect carefully for
leaks and check the operation of the brakes
before placing the vehicle into normal service.
9Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque.
4 Disc brake caliper- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Warning: Dust created by the
brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
brake system cleaner only!
Note 1:The following procedure applies to
both front and rear calipers.
Note 2:If an overhaul is indicated, explore all
options before beginning the job. New andfactory rebuilt calipers are available on an
exchange basis, which makes this job quite
easy. If you decide to rebuild the calipers,
make sure a rebuild kit is available before
proceeding. Always rebuild the calipers in
pairs - never rebuild just one of them.
Removal
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front or
rear of the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands. Remove the wheel.
2If you’re just removing the caliper for
access to other components, it isn’t
Braking system 9•3
9
3.5f Remove the outer brake pad3.5g Remove the inner brake pad
3.5h Pull out the wear sensor, trace the
sensor lead back to its plug, detach the
lead from the suspension, and discard it
3.5i Remove the caliper guide pins and
boots (lower pin and boot shown) . . .
3.5j . . . clean them off, inspect the pin and
boot for damage, renew as necessary,
then lubricate the pins with brake grease
and refit them in the caliper bracket
3.5k Apply anti-squeal compound to the
new brake pads
3261 Jaguar XJ6
3.5l Insert the new wear sensor into the
inner pad as shown . . .
3.5n Refit the outer pad
3.5m . . . then refit the inner pad onto the
caliper bracket
3.5o Refit the caliper, then tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque