1997 JAGUAR XJ6 window

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Roadside repairs0•9
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
MUse a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
MAlways turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
MOnly attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided. On some models with energy-
absorbing bumpers there are no front towing
eyes; on these vehicles the tow-rope shouldbe attached around the rear arm of the lower
control arm so that the rope passes on the
inside of the coil spring.
MBefore being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
MNote that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
MOn models with power steering, greater-
than-usual steering effort will also be required.
MThe driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
MMake sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
MOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
MOn models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.
Caution: On models with automatic
transmission, if the vehicle is to be towed
with its rear wheels on the ground, and
extra 1.7 litres of fluid should be added to
the transmission, prior to towing (this extra
fluid must be drained before driving the
vehicle). Even with the extra fluid added to
the transmission, do not tow the vehicle at
speeds in excess of 30 mph (50 kmh) or for
a distance of greater than 15 miles (25 km).
If towing speed/distance are to exceed
these limits, then the vehicle must be
towed with its rear wheels off the ground.
Towing
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car and
to park it over some clean paper as an
aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

headlights or heated rear window and confirm
that the engine rpm decreases at first and
then increases. This check monitors the ISC
motor as it is signalled by the computer to
increase idle speed due to additional
amperage required from the charging system.
As the headlights draw current from the
charging system, the alternator will create
resistance on the belt as it works to produce
the additional energy. If the rpm does not
increase, check the ISC motor.
23Check for approximately 11.2 volts to the
ISC stepper motor (see illustrations).
Disconnect the ISC harness connector and
working on the harness side, check for
11.2 volts with the ignition key ON (engine not
running). Also, check the corresponding
terminals for the correct voltage amounts. If
the correct voltage does not exist, check the
wiring harness. Refer to the wiring diagrams
at the end of Chapter 12.24The ISC motor or stepper motor can be
checked for correct operation but a special tool
is required to activate the internal coils. Have
the stepper motor checked by a dealer service
department or other qualified repair workshop.
25Reconnect the ISC motor electrical
connector.
Renewal
26Detach the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery (see Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
27Use a large open-end spanner and
unscrew the ISC motor from the housing (see
illustration).
28Refitting is the reverse of removal, but be
sure to use a new gasket.
Fuel rail and fuel injectors
Note:If there is a distinct knocking noise
coming from the dash when the engine is
idling, the fuel feed hose may have hardenedrestricting fuel flow and causing abnormal
sounds. Replace the fuel inlet (feed) hose with
a new part from the dealer parts department.
Check
29Refer to the fuel injection system checking
procedure (see Section 12).
Renewal
30Relieve the fuel pressure (see Section 2).
31Detach the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery (see Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
32Disconnect the fuel injector wiring con-
nectors and set the injector wire harness aside.
33Detach the vacuum sensing hose from the
fuel pressure regulator.
34Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel
pressure regulator and the fuel rail (see
illustration 3.6a)
35Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (see
illustration).
4•12 Fuel and exhaust systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6 13.23a To check the ISC motor, turn the ignition key ON
(engine not running) and check for the proper voltage amounts
at the harness connector (1989 model shown)
13.23b Later models are equipped with a different shape
ISC connector but the voltage values should be the same
as the early style
13.27 Use a large open end spanner to remove the ISC motor
from the intake manifold13.35 Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (arrowed) . . .

3261 Jaguar XJ6
11
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Body - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Body repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Body repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bonnet and boot lid support struts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 9
Bonnet release latch and cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Boot lid latch and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Cowl cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Dashboard trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting . . . . . . 20
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Door window glass regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Instrument cluster housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Outside mirrors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Steering column cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Vinyl trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Windscreen and fixed glass - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
11•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
These models feature a “unibody”
construction, using a floor pan with front and
rear frame side rails which support the body
components, front and rear suspension
systems and other mechanical components.
Certain components are particularly vulnerable
to accident damage and can be unbolted and
repaired or replaced. Among these parts are
the body mouldings, bumpers, front wings,
bonnet and boot lids and all glass.
Only general body maintenance practices
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Body- maintenance
1
1The condition of your vehicle’s body is very
important, because the resale value depends
a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to
repair a neglected or damaged body than it is
to repair mechanical components. The hidden
areas of the body, such as the wheel wells,
the frame and the engine compartment, areequally important, although they don’t require
as frequent attention as the rest of the body.
2Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a
good idea to have the underside of the body
steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be
removed and the area can then be inspected
carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed
electrical wires, damaged cables and other
problems. The front suspension components
should be greased after completion of this job.
3At the same time, clean the engine and the
engine compartment with a steam cleaner or
water soluble degreaser.
4The wheel wells should be given close
attention, since undercoating can peel away
and stones and dirt thrown up by the tyres
can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing
rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to
the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.
5The body should be washed about once a
week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the
dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and
plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt
is not washed off very carefully, it can wear
down the paint.
6Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the
road should be removed with a cloth soaked
in solvent.
7Once every six months, wax the body and
chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to
remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated
parts, remember that the cleaner also removes
part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.
3 Vinyl trim- maintenance
1
Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents,
caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.
Plain soap and water works just fine, with a
soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained.
Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the
vehicle.
After cleaning, application of a high quality
rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent
oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also
be applied to weather-stripping, vacuum lines
and rubber hoses (which often fail as a result
of chemical degradation) and to the tyres.
4 Upholstery and carpets-
maintenance
1
1Every three months remove the carpets or
mats and clean the interior of the vehicle
(more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the
upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt
and dust.
2Leather upholstery requires special care.
Stains should be removed with warm water
and a very mild soap solution. Use a clean,
damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe

4Detach the wood finishing panel (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the inside lock knob, then remove
the remaining screws securing the upper half
of the door trim panel and detach it from the
vehicle (see illustration).
6Detach the screw from the top edge of the
lower door trim panel (see illustration).
7Pry out the courtesy lamp lens, then detach
the retaining screw from inside the lamp
housing (see illustrations).
8Remove the armrest trim cover, then
detach the retaining screws from behind the
cover (see illustrations).
9Insert a wide putty knife, a screwdriver or a
special trim panel removal tool between thetrim panel and the head of the retaining clips
to disengage the retaining clips along the outer
edges of the door panel (see illustration). Pry
only at the clip locations or the panel could be
damaged.
10Once all of the clips are disengaged,
detach the trim panel, unplug any electrical
connectors and remove the trim panel from
the door by gently pulling it up and out.
11For access to the inner door, peel back
the watershield, taking care not to tear it. To
refit the trim panel, first press the watershield
back into place. If necessary, add more
sealant to hold it in place.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.19 Door- removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Note:The door is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Raise the window completely in the door,
then disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
18.6 Detach the screws along the top
edge of the lower trim panel18.7a Prise out the courtesy lamp lens18.7b Remove the retaining screw from
inside the lamp housing
18.8a Push up on the bottom to detach the
armrest/pull handle trim cover18.8b Remove the screws behind the
armrest/pull handle trim cover18.9 Disengage the retaining clips along
the outer edge of the door trim panel
3261 Jaguar XJ6 18.4 Gently prise out the clips securing the wood finish panel
18.5 Detach the screws located behind the wood finisher panel,
then remove the upper portion of the door trim panel

2Open the door all the way and support it on
jacks or blocks covered with rags to prevent
damaging the paint.
3Remove the door trim panel and water
deflector as described in Section 18.
4Unplug all electrical connections, ground
wires and harness retaining clips from the
door. Note:It is a good idea to label all
connections to aid the reassembly process.
5From the door side, detach the rubber
conduit between the body and the door, then
carefully pull the wiring harness through the
conduit hole and remove it from the door.
6Mark around the door hinges with a pen or
a scribe to ease alignment during reassembly.
7On front doors, work through the door
access hole to remove the hinge-to-door
nuts. On rear doors the hinge-to-body bolts
are more accessible and can be removed by
simply opening the front door and removing
the bolts (see illustrations).
8Have an assistant hold the door, remove
the bolts or nuts and lift the door off.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
10Having proper door to body alignment is a
critical part of a well functioning doorassembly. First check the door hinge pins for
excessive play. Note: If the door can be lifted
(1/16-inch or more) without the car body
moving, the hinges should be replaced.
11Door-to-body alignment adjustments are
made by loosening the hinge-to-body or hinge-
to-door bolts and moving the door. Proper
body alignment is achieved when the top of
doors are parallel with the roof section, the
front door is flush with the wing, the rear door is
flush with the rear quarter panel and the
bottom of the doors are aligned with the lower
rocker panel. If these goals can’t be reached by
adjusting the hinge-to-body or hinge-to-door
bolts, body alignment shims may have to be
purchased and inserted behind the hinges to
achieve correct alignment.
12To adjust the door closed position, scribe
a line or mark around the striker plate to
provide a reference point. Check that the door
latch is contacting the centre of the latch
striker. If not, adjust the up-and-down
position first.
13Finally, adjust the latch striker position, so
the door skin is flush with the rear door (front)
or rear quarter panel (rear) and provides
positive engagement with the latch
mechanism (see illustration).
20 Door latch, lock cylinder and
handles- removal and refitting
2
Door latch
1Raise the window, then remove the door
trim panel and watershield as described in
Section 18.
2Working through the large access hole,
disengage the outside door handle-to-latch
rod and the inside handle-to-latch cable (see
illustration).
3All door locking rods are attached by plastic
clips. The plastic clips can be removed by
unsnapping the portion engaging the
connecting rod and then by pulling the rod out
of its locating hole.
4Remove the screws securing the latch to
the door (see illustration), then remove the
latch assembly from the door.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Outside handle
and door lock cylinder
6To remove the outside handle and lock
cylinder assembly, raise the window then
Bodywork and fittings 11•9
11
19.13 Adjust the door lock striker by
loosening the hex nut and gently tapping
the striker in the desired direction20.2 Detach the outside handle-to-latch
rod (A), then remove the inside handle-to-
latch cable (B)20.4 Remove the latch screws (arrowed)
from the end of the door, and pull the latch
assembly through the access hole.
3261 Jaguar XJ6 19.7a Work through the door access hole (arrowed) to remove
the hinge-to-door retaining nuts from inside the door
19.7b Open the front door to access the rear door hinge-to-body
bolts (arrowed)

remove the door trim panel and watershield
as described in Section 18.
7Working through the access hole, detach
the outside handle retaining nuts (see
illustration),then pull the handle away from
the door.
8Disengage the plastic clip that secures the
outside handle-to-latch rod (see illustration).
9Remove the handle and lock cylinder
assembly from the vehicle.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Inside handle and cable
11Remove the door trim panel as described
in Section 18 and peel away the watershield.
12Detach the inside handle-to-latch cable
(see illustration 20.2).
13Remove the inside handle retaining bolts
(see illustration).
14Pull the handle and cable assembly free
and remove them from the door.15Refitting is the reverse of removal.
21 Door window glass
regulator-
removal and refitting
3
1To remove the window regulator assembly,
raise the window to its full upright position,
then remove the door trim panel and
watershield as described in Section 18.
2Tape the window to the door glass frame to
secure the window in the full upright position.
3Remove the regulator and motor mounting
bolts (see illustration).
4Disconnect the electrical connector from
the window regulator motor.
5Slide the equaliser arms out of the window
glass channel and remove the regulator and
motor assembly through the service hole in
the door frame.Warning: The regulator arms are
under pressure and can cause
serious injury if the motor is
removed without locking the
sector gear. The motor and regulator can
now safely be separated.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11•10 Bodywork and fittings
3261 Jaguar XJ6 20.7 The outside handle retaining nuts (arrowed) can be reached
through the access hole in the door
20.8 Detach the plastic clip securing the lock rod
20.13 After removing the cable from the latch assembly, detach
the handle retaining bolts, then pull the handle and cable
assembly free from the vehicle21.3 Detach the window regulator bolts (arrowed)
If the motor or regulator
needs replacing, it will be
necessary to lock the sector
gear to the regulator back-
plate. This can be done by fastening the
sector gear to the backplate with a bolt
inserted through one of the holes in the
backplate and sector gear and secured
with a nut. If none of the holes line up,
drill a hole through the backplate and
sector gear.

22 Door window glass-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the window to its full upright position,
then remove the door trim panel and
watershield as described in Section 18.
2Tape the window to the door glass frame to
secure the window in the full upright position.
3Detach the regulator assembly (Section 21)
and lower it to the bottom of the door.
4Remove the window frame retaining bolts
(see illustrations).
5Remove the window frame and glass
assembly by pulling it up and out (see
illustration).
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
23 Outside mirrors-
removal and refitting
2
1Raise the window to the fully closed
position and remove the upper half of the
door trim panel (see Section 18).
2Detach the trim cover retaining screws (see
illustration).3Disconnect the wiring plug from the mirror.
4Remove the three mirror retaining screws
and detach the mirror from the vehicle (see
illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
24 Centre console-
removal and refitting
3
Floor console
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Pry out the gear selector trim bezel (see
illustration).
3Open the console compartment and
remove the screws securing the ash tray. Pull
the ash tray back towards the compartment to
remove it (see illustrations).
4Working through the ash tray opening,
detach the plastic wingnuts securing the rear
edge of the radio trim bezel (see illustration).
5Apply the handbrake, then move the gear
Bodywork and fittings 11•11
11
22.4a Front door window frame screws 22.4b Rear door window frame screws
22.5 After removing the window frame
retaining screws, pull the window and
frame assembly up and out to remove it
3261 Jaguar XJ6 23.2 Remove the trim cover retaining screws
23.4 Disconnect the electrical connector, then detach the three
mirror retaining screws and remove the mirror from the vehicle
24.3a Open the console compartment to
access the ash tray screws (arrowed)24.2 Carefully prise out the gear selector
trim bezel

3261 Jaguar XJ6
12
Chapter 12
Body electrical system
1 General information
The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid-type battery which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, alternator,
distributor and starter motor will be found in
Chapter 5.
It should be noted that when portions of the
electrical system are serviced, the cable
should be disconnected from the negative
battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts
and/or fires.
2 Electrical fault finding-
general information
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links, in-line fuses or
circuit breakers related to that component
and the wiring and electrical connectors that
link the component to both the battery andthe chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical
circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included
at the end of this Chapter.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble
spots, for instance, can often be narrowed
down by noting if other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time,
chances are the problem is in a fuse or earth
connection, because several circuits are often
routed through the same fuse and earth
connections.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the
condition of all fuses, wires and connections
in a problem circuit before diagnosing it.
If testing instruments are going to be
utilised, use the diagrams to plan ahead of
time where you will make the necessary
connections in order to accurately pinpoint
the trouble spot.
The basic tools needed for electrical fault
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used), a continuity tester, which includes a
bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a
jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker
incorporated, which can be used to bypasselectrical components. Before attempting to
locate a problem with test instruments,
use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to
make the connections.
Voltage checks
Voltage checks should be performed if a
circuit is not functioning properly. Connect
one lead of a circuit tester to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good
earth. Connect the other lead to a electrical
connector in the circuit being tested,
preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the
bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present,
which means that the part of the circuit
between the electrical connector and the
battery is problem free. Continue checking the
rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When
you reach a point at which no voltage is
present, the problem lies between that point
and the last test point with voltage. Most of
the time the problem can be traced to a loose
connection. Note:Keep in mind that some
circuits receive voltage only when the ignition
key is in the Accessory or Run position.
Finding a short
One method of finding shorts in a circuit is
to remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter in its place. There should be no
voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring
harness from side to side while watching the
test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short Airbag system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Central locking system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Circuit breakers - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cruise control system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Direction indicators/hazard flashers - general information . . . . . . . . 7
Electric aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Electric side view mirrors - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Electric sunroof - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Electric window system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuel, oil and temperature gauges - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight housing (1992 to 1994 models) - removal and refitting . . . 19Headlights - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Headlights - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Heated rear window - check and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Horn - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Inertia switch - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
In-line fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Instrument panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Radio and speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Relays - general information and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering column switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiring diagrams - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
12•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321