1997 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN Owners Manual

Vehicle
C-1500 (2WD) Utility
K- 1500 (4WD) Utility
C- 1500 (2WD) Suburban
K- 1500 (4WD) Suburban
Engine
5.7L
5.7L
6.5L Diesel
5.7L
6.5L Diesel
5.7L
6.5L Diesel
Axle Ratio
3.08
3.42 3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42 3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.42
3.73 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt.
5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg)
6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg)
7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg)
5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg)
6,500
lbs. (2 951 kg)
6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg)
7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg)
5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg)
6,500 lbs. (2 951 kg)
5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg)
5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg)
6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg)
5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg)
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Vehicle
C-2500 (2WD) Suburban
K-2500 (4WD) Suburban
Engine
5.7L
6.5L Diesel
7.4L 5.7L
6.5L Diesel
7.4L
Axle Ratio
3.73
4.10 3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
Max. Trailer Wt.
6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg)
7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg)
6,500 lbs. (2 951 kg)
8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg)
8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg)
10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg)
7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg)
6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg)
7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg)
8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg)
10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg)
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You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write
us at the address listed in your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario
LlH 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross
weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any
cargo
you may carry in it, and the people who will be
riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you
must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading
Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about
your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
B
If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh
10 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight
(B). If you’re using a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 12 percent of
the total loaded trailer weight
(B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if
the weights are
proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
see “Tire Loading’’ in the Index. Then be sure you don’t
go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the
weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules to follow:
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have
ample room when turning to avoid contact between
the trailer and the bumper.
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step
bumper, be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the
proper size. This equipment is very important for
proper vehicle loading and good handling when
you’re driving.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide”
in the
Index). Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road
if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided
by the hitch
manufacturer or
by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig.
And, never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 Ibs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow
the instructions for
the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the
port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the
rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you
do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull
a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide
(CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can’t see
or smell
CO. It can cause unconsciousness or
death. (See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.)
To
maximize your safety when towing a trailer:
0
0
0
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting
on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through
a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle.
Do not use the
recirculation button
or MAX because it
only recirculates the air inside your vehicle.
(See “Comfort Controls”
in the Index.)
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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets
you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load
is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy bralung
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer,
you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before
you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left.
To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
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Making ’hms
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even
if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have
to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around
45 mph (70 kmh) to reduce the
possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow
in
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (0). You may want to
shift the transmission to THIRD
(3) or, if necessary, a
lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar
to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK
(P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the
overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in
the Index.
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Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached,
on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
PARK
(P) yet.
3. When
the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to PARK
(P).
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be
sure the transfer case
is in a drive gear -- not in
NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
e
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever
is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured.
To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even
when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps
that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer
case is in
NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free
to roll, even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P). So,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not
in
NEUTRAL (N).
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