1995 JEEP YJ heating

WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (FIG. 27). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. AL-
WAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING
CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 28). If re-
placement is necessary, use only an original equip-
ment clamp with matching number or letter.XJ MODELS WITH 2.5L 4-CYLINDER ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Observe the previousWARNINGS.Remove ra-
diator cap.
(3) Position drain pan under draincock. Open radi-
ator draincock. Drain radiator.
(4) Remove radiator upper and lower hose clamps
(Figs. 27 and 28). Remove hoses.
(5) Remove E-clip from alignment dowel at radia-
tor lower mounting bracket (Fig. 29).
(6) Disconnect coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from radiator.
(7) Remove four radiator fan shroud mounting
bolts (Fig. 29). Push shroud back against front of en-
gine.
(8) If equipped, disconnect and plug automatic
transmission fluid cooler lines. Refer to Group 21,
Transmission for procedures.
(9) Remove two radiator top mounting bolts (Fig.
29).
(10) (a) If equipped with air conditioning, remove
the radiator grille mounting screws and remove grill.
Refer to Group 23, Body for procedures.
(b) If equipped, remove the air conditioning con-
denser-to-radiator mounting bolt. Use an open end
wrench to remove bottom bolts (Fig. 30).
(11) Lift radiator straight up and out of vehicle.
Take care not to damage radiator fins. When remov-
ing radiator, note position of the rubber seals located
on the top, bottom and sides of radiator (Fig. 29). To
prevent possible overheating, these seals must be in-
stalled to their original positions.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install radiator behind air conditioning con-
denser with bottom alignment dowel inserted into ra-
diator lower mounting bracket (Fig. 29).
(2) Install E-clip to radiator alignment dowel (Fig.
29).
(3) Tighten the four condenser-to-radiator mount-
ing bolts to 6.2 Nzm (55 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) If removed, install radiator grille.
(5) Tighten radiator top mounting bolts to 6 Nzm
(55 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) If equipped, connect automatic transmission
fluid cooler lines to radiator. Refer to Group 21,
Transmission for procedures.
(7) Install the radiator fan shroud.
(8) Connect the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose.
(9) Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamps.
(10) Connect negative battery cable.
(11) Close the draincock.
(12) Fill cooling system with correct coolant.
(13) Install radiator cap.
(14) Check and adjust automatic transmission
fluid level (if equipped).
Fig. 27 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 28 Clamp Number/Letter Location
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 27

WAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING
CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 28). If re-
placement is necessary, use only an original equip-
ment clamp with matching number or letter.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Observe the previousWARNINGS.Remove the
radiator cap.
(3) Position drain pan under draincock. Open radi-
ator draincock and drain radiator.
(4) Remove radiator upper and lower hose clamps
(Figs 27 and 28). Remove radiator hoses.
(5) Disconnect coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from radiator.
(6) Remove the four fan shroud mounting bolts
(Fig. 35). On some models the power steering fluid
reservoir tank is attached to the side of the fan
shroud. Tie the reservoir back to prevent spillage. Po-
sition the fan shroud back over the fan blades.
(7) If equipped, disconnect and plug automatic
transmission fluid cooler lines.(8) Remove six radiator mounting bolts. Position
the front axle vent hose (Fig. 35) to the side.
(9) Lift radiator straight up and out of vehicle tak-
ing care not to damage radiator fins.
When removing radiator, note position of the rub-
ber seals located on the top and bottom of radiator
(figure 35 on certain models only). To prevent possi-
ble overheating, these seals must be installed to their
original positions.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the radiator. Install and tighten the
six mounting bolts (Fig. 35) to 8 Nzm (72 in. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Close radiator draincock.
(3) Position fan shroud and power steering reser-
voir tank (if equipped). Install and tighten four
mounting bolts to 8 Nzm (72 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) If equipped, remove plugs and connect auto-
matic transmission fluid cooler lines.
(5) Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamps.
(6) Connect negative battery cable.
(7) Fill cooling system with correct coolant. Refer
to the Coolant section of this group.
(8) Connect reserve/overflow tank hose.
(9) Install radiator cap.
Fig. 35 RadiatorÐRemove/InstallÐYJ Models
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 31

(10) Check and adjust automatic transmission
fluid level (if equipped).
COOLING SYSTEM HOSES
Rubber hoses route coolant to and from the radia-
tor, intake manifold and heater core. All XJ models
equipped with air conditioning have a coolant control
valve. This is located in-line with the heater core in-
let and outlet hoses. It controls coolant flow to the
heater core when the air conditioning system is in
operation.
Radiator lower hoses are spring-reinforced to pre-
vent collapse from water pump suction at moderate
and high engine speeds.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (FIG. 36). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. AL-
WAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING
CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 37). If re-
placement is necessary, use only an original equip-
ment clamp with matching number or letter.
Inspect the hoses at regular intervals. Replace
hoses that are cracked, feel brittle when squeezed, or
swell excessively when the system is pressurized.
For all vehicles: In areas where specific routing
clamps are not provided, be sure that hoses are posi-
tioned with sufficient clearance. Check clearance
from exhaust manifolds and pipe, fan blades, drive
belts and sway bars. Improperly positioned hoses can
be damaged, resulting in coolant loss and engine
overheating.Ordinary worm gear type hose clamps (when
equipped) can be removed with a straight screw-
driver or a hex socket.To prevent damage to
hoses or clamps, the hose clamps should be
tightened to 4 Nzm (34 in. lbs.) torque. Do not
over tighten hose clamps.
When performing a hose inspection, inspect the ra-
diator lower hose for proper position and condition of
the internal spring.
COOLING SYSTEM FANS
Also refer to either the Viscous Fan Drive and/or
the Auxiliary Electric Cooling FanÐXJ Models With
4.0L Engine sections for additional information.
All models are equipped with a mechanical temper-
ature controlled fan. This thermal viscous fan drive
(Fig. 38) is a torque-and-temperature-sensitive clutch
unit. It automatically increases or decreases fan
speed to provide proper engine cooling. XJ models
equipped with a 4.0L 6-cylinder engine may also
have an auxiliary electrical cooling fan. This is with
models that have air conditioning and/or heavy duty
cooling.
REMOVAL
Some engines have the mechanical fan/viscous fan
drive assembly mounted directly to the water pump
hub (Fig. 38). It may also be mounted to a hub/bear-
ing attached to an aluminum bracket on the right
front side of engine (Fig. 39).
(1) Loosen but do not remove at this time, the four
fan hub mounting nuts (Figs. 38 or 39).
Fig. 36 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 37 Clamp Number/Letter Location
7 - 32 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
GENERAL INFORMATION
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
An optional engine block heater is available for all
models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The cord is attached to an engine compartment com-
ponent with tie-straps. The heater warms the engine
providing easier engine starting and faster warm-up
in low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole of the engine cylinder block (in place of a freeze
plug) with the heating element immersed in engine
coolant. Connect the power cord to a grounded 110-
120 volt AC electrical outlet with a grounded, three-
wire extension cord.
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
BLOCK HEATER SPECIFICATIONS
²2.5L 4-Cylinder Engine: 115 Volts 400 Watts
²4.0L 6-Cylinder Engine: 120 Volts 600 Watts
REMOVAL
Refer to correct illustration (Figures 11, 12 or 13)
when servicing block heater.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and engine cylinder
block.(2) Unplug power cord from block heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of block heater (Figs. 11,
12 or 13).
(4) Remove block heater from cylinder block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the engine core hole and the
block heater seat.
(2) Insert block heater assembly into core hole
with element loop pointingUp.
(3) Seat block heater flush against block face.
Tighten mounting screw to 3.6 Nzm (32 in. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Fill cooling system with coolant. Pressurize sys-
tem and inspect for leaks.
(5) Plug power cord into block heater. Route cord
away from moving parts, linkages and exhaust sys-
tem components. Secure cord in place with tie-straps.
Fig. 13 Heater and CordÐYJ Models
Fig. 11 Heater and CordÐXJ with 2.5L 4-Cylinder
Engine
Fig. 12 Heater and CordÐXJ with 4.0L 6-Cylinder
Engine
7 - 44 ENGINE BLOCK HEATERJ

subjected to a high torque load, deposits partially liq-
uefy and bridge the gap between electrodes (Fig. 21).
This short circuits the electrodes. Spark plugs with
electrode gap bridging can be cleaned using standard
procedures.
SCAVENGER DEPOSITS
Fuel scavenger deposits may be either white or yel-
low (Fig. 22). They may appear to be harmful, but
this is a normal condition caused by chemical addi-
tives in certain fuels. These additives are designed to
change the chemical nature of deposits and decrease
spark plug misfire tendencies. Notice that accumula-
tion on the ground electrode and shell area may be
heavy, but the deposits are easily removed. Sparkplugs with scavenger deposits can be considered nor-
mal in condition and can be cleaned using standard
procedures.
CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR
A chipped electrode insulator usually results from
bending the center electrode while adjusting the
spark plug electrode gap. Under certain conditions,
severe detonation can also separate the insulator
from the center electrode (Fig. 23). Spark plugs with
this condition must be replaced.
PREIGNITION DAMAGE
Preignition damage is usually caused by excessive
combustion chamber temperature. The center elec-
trode dissolves first and the ground electrode dis-
solves somewhat latter (Fig. 24). Insulators appear
relatively deposit free. Determine if the spark plug
has the correct heat range rating for the engine. De-
termine if ignition timing is over advanced, or if
other operating conditions are causing engine over-
heating. (The heat range rating refers to the operat-
ing temperature of a particular type spark plug.
Spark plugs are designed to operate within specific
Fig. 20 Oil or Ash Encrusted
Fig. 21 Electrode Gap Bridging
Fig. 22 Scavenger Deposits
Fig. 23 Chipped Electrode Insulator
JIGNITION SYSTEMS 8D - 13

temperature ranges. This depends upon the thick-
ness and length of the center electrodes porcelain in-
sulator.)
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
25). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 1000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
SPARK PLUG SECONDARY CABLES
TESTING
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition cables or secondary wires. The cables
transfer electrical current from the distributor to in-
dividual spark plugs at each cylinder. The spark plug
cables are of nonmetallic construction and have a
built in resistance. The cables provide suppression of
radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.Check the high-tension cable connections for good
contact at the ignition coil, distributor cap towers
and spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The terminals and spark plug covers should be in
good condition. Terminals should fit tightly to the ig-
nition coil, distributor cap and spark plugs. The
spark plug cover (boot) of the cable should fit tight
around the spark plug insulator. Loose cable connec-
tions can cause corrosion and increase resistance, re-
sulting in shorter cable service life.
Clean the high tension cables with a cloth moist-
ened with a nonflammable solvent and wipe dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. Remove the dis-
tributor cap from the distributor.Do not remove
cables from cap.Remove cable from spark plug.
Connect ohmmeter to spark plug terminal end of ca-
ble and to corresponding electrode in distributor cap.
Resistance should be 250 to 1000 Ohms per inch of
cable. If not, remove cable from distributor cap tower
and connect ohmmeter to the terminal ends of cable.
If resistance is not within specifications as found in
the Spark Plug Cable Resistance chart, replace the
cable. Test all spark plug cables in this manner.
Fig. 24 Preignition Damage
Fig. 25 Spark Plug Overheating
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
8D - 14 IGNITION SYSTEMSJ

ENGINE DIAGNOSIS
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine tune-ups.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or me-
chanical (e.g., a strange noise).
Refer to the Service DiagnosisÐPerformance chart
and the Service DiagnosisÐMechanical chart for pos-
sible causes and corrections of malfunctions. Refer to
Group 14, Fuel System for the fuel system diagnosis.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts. In-
formation concerning additional tests and diagnosis
is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test.
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test.
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis.
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis.
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DI-
RECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
METHOD 1
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM'S, the area of the suspected
leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
Refer to Engine Specifications for the correct en-
gine compression pressures.
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE
DIAGNOSIS
A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually re-
sults in loss of power, loss of coolant and engine mis-
firing.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be located
between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and
the adjacent water jacket.
²An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between
adjacent cylinders is indicated by a loss of power
and/or engine misfire.
²An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between a
cylinder and an adjacent water jacket is indicated by
coolant foaming or overheating and loss of coolant.
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders; follow the proce-
dures outlined in Cylinder Compression Pressure
Test. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between
adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-
70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE
TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DI-
RECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Remove the radiator cap.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up until the
engine thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak ex-
ists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pres-
sure tester and pressurize the coolant system.
If a cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into
the water jacket, the tester pointer will pulsate with
every combustion stroke of the cylinder.
JENGINES 9 - 5

properly aligned ensures correct valve timing. A worn
or stretched timing chain will adversely affect valve
timing. If the timing chain deflects more than 12.7
mm (1/2 inch) replace it. The correct timing chain
has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will
cause excessive slack.
INSTALLATION
Assemble the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket
and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 5).
(1) Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant
to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the key.
With the key in the keyway on the crankshaft, install
the assembly on the crankshaft and camshaft.
(2) Install the camshaft sprocket retaining preload
bolt and washer (Fig. 7). Tighten the preload bolt to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft
sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 8. Count the
number of chain pins between the timing marks of
both sprockets. There must be 15 pins.
(4) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(5) Replace the oil seal in the timing case cover.
(6) Lubricate the tension spring, thrust pin and
pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar Engine Oil
Supplement, or equivalent. Install the spring and
thrust pin in the preload bolt head (Fig. 6).
(7) Install the timing case cover and gasket.
(8) With the key installed in the crankshaft key-
way, install the vibration damper, washer and bolt.
Lubricate and tighten the bolt to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(9) Install the serpentine drive belt and tighten to
the specified tension (refer to Group 7, Cooling Sys-
tem for the proper procedure).
(10) Install the fan and hub (or Tempatrol fan) as-
sembly. Install the shroud.
(11) Connect negative cable to battery.
CAMSHAFT
REMOVAL
WARNING: THE COOLANT IN A RECENTLY OPER-
ATED ENGINE IS HOT AND PRESSURIZED. RE-
LEASE THE PRESSURE BEFORE REMOVING THE
DRAIN COCK, CAP AND DRAIN PLUGS.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain the cooling system. DO NOT waste reus-
able coolant. If the solution is clean, drain it into a
clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the radiator or radiator and condenser,
if equipped with A/C (refer to Group 7, Cooling Sys-
tem for the proper procedure).
(4) Remove the air conditioner condenser and re-
ceiver/drier assembly as a charged unit, if equipped
(refer to Group 24, Heating and Air Conditioning).
(5) Remove the distributor cap and mark the posi-
tion of the rotor.
(6) Remove the distributor and ignition wires.
(7) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(8) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(9) Remove the push rods.
(10) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket.
(11) Remove the hydraulic valve tappets from the
engine cylinder head.
(12) Remove the vibration damper.
(13) Remove the timing case cover.
(14) Remove the timing chain and sprockets.
(15) Remove the front bumper and/or grille, as re-
quired.
(16) Remove the camshaft (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Camshaft Sprocket Preload Bolt
Fig. 7 Verify SprocketÐChain InstallationÐTypical
9 - 74 4.0L ENGINEJ