1995 JEEP YJ length

The amount of piston retraction is determined by
brakelining wear. Generally, the amount is just
enough to maintain contact between the piston and
inboard brakeshoe. Brakelining running clearance at
the rotor, will be held between zero and a maximum
of 0.12 mm (0.005 in.).
DISC BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der front brake reservoir with suction gun.
(3) Bottom caliper piston in bore with C-clamp. Po-
sition clamp screw on outboard brakeshoe and clamp
frame on rear of caliper. Typical C-clamp attachment
is shown in Figure 3.Do not allow clamp screw to
bear directly on outboard shoe retainer spring.
Use wood or metal spacer between shoe and
clamp screw if necessary.
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).If
brakeshoes are being removed to correct a pull
or drag condition, verify length of caliper bolts
as they may be incorrect length. Refer to bolt
information in brakeshoe installation proce-
dure.
(5) Tilt top of caliper outward. Use pry tool if nec-
essary (Fig. 5).
(6) Lift caliper off steering knuckle (Fig. 6).(7)If original brakeshoes will be used, keep
them in sets (left and right); they are not inter-
changeable.
Fig. 2 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
Fig. 3 Bottoming Caliper Piston With C-Clamp
Fig. 4 Removing/Installing Caliper Mounting Bolts
Fig. 5 Tilting Caliper Outward
Fig. 6 Caliper Removal
5 - 46 DISC BRAKESJ

install caliper over rotor and seat upper ends of
brakeshoes on top mounting ledge (Fig. 11).
CAUTION: Before securing the caliper, be sure the
caliper brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touch-
ing any chassis components. Also be sure the hose
is clear of all suspension and steering components.
Loosen and reposition the hose if necessary.
(8) Install and tighten caliper mounting bolts to
10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they will contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for required caliper bolt length.
(9) Install wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 102 Nzm (75
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brakeshoes are seated.(11) Top off brake fluid level if necessary. Use Mo-
par brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE J1703 and
DOT 3 standards only.
CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Remove fitting bolt and disconnect front brake
hose at caliper. Discard fitting bolt gaskets. They
should not be reused.
(3) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).
(4) Rotate caliper rearward by hand or with pry
tool (Fig. 5). Then rotate caliper and brakeshoes off
mounting ledges.
(5) Remove caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper.
Fig. 11 Installing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 12 Installing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 13 Caliper Installation
Fig. 14 Caliper Mounting Bolt Dimensions
5 - 48 DISC BRAKESJ

CALIPER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the caliper and piston with Mopar brake
cleaner, clean brake fluid, or denatured alcohol only.
Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner, or similar sol-
vents. These products leave a residue that will dam-
age pistons and seals.
Wipe the caliper and piston dry with lint free tow-
els or use low pressure compressed air.
Inspect the piston and piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore is corroded, rusted, pitted, or scored.
Do not hone the caliper piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore exhibits any of the aforementioned
conditions.
Inspect the caliper piston. The piston is made from
a phenolic resin and should be smooth and clean. Re-
place the piston if cracked, chipped, or scored. Do not
attempt to restore a scored, or corroded piston sur-
face by sanding or polishing. The piston must be re-
placed if damaged.
CAUTION: Never interchange phenolic resin and
steel caliper pistons. The seals, seal grooves, cali-
per bores and piston tolerances are different for
resin and steel pistons. Do not intermix these com-
ponents.
Inspect the caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots. Replace the boots if cut or torn. Clean and lu-
bricate the bushings with GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone
grease if necessary.
Inspect condition of the caliper mounting bolts. Re-
place the bolts if corroded, rusted, or worn. Do not
reuse the bolts if unsure of their condition.
Length of the caliper mounting bolts is also ex-
tremely important.
Use the replacement bolts specified in the parts
catalog at all times. Do not use substitute bolts. Bolts
that are too long will partially apply the inboard
brakeshoe causing drag and pull. Refer to the caliper
and brakeshoe installation procedures for service de-
tails and bolt dimensions.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Coat caliper piston bore, new piston seal and
piston with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of bush-
ing boots with GE 661, Dow 111, or Permatex Dielec-
tric silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper first. Then in-
sert bushing into boot and push bushing into place
(Fig. 20).
(4) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press
seal into seal groove with finger (Fig. 21).
(5) Install dust boot on caliper piston (Fig. 22).
Slide boot over piston and seat boot in piston groove.(6) Start caliper piston in bore by hand (Fig. 23).
Use a turn and push motion to work piston into seal.
Once piston is started in seal, press pistononly part
wayinto bore.
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C- 4171 (Fig. 24).
(9) Install caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 Installing Bushings And Boots
Fig. 21 Installing Piston Seal
Fig. 22 Installing Dust Boot On Piston
5 - 50 DISC BRAKESJ

CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brakeshoes in caliper (Figs. 11, 12).
(2) Connect brake hose to caliper but do not
tighten fitting bolt completely at this time.Be sure
to use new gaskets on fitting bolt to avoid leaks
(Fig. 25).
(3) Install caliper. Position mounting notches at
lower end of brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge
(Fig. 13). Then rotate caliper over rotor and seat
notches at upper end of shoes on mounting ledge
(Fig. 13).
(4) Coat caliper mounting bolts with GE 661 or
Dow 111 silicone grease. Then install and tighten
bolts to 10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they may contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for the required caliper bolt length.
(5) Position front brake hose clear of all chassis
components and tighten caliper fitting bolt to 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Be sure the brake hose is not twisted or
kinked at any point. Also be sure the hose is clear
of all steering and suspension components. Loosen
and reposition the hose if necessary.
(6) Install wheels. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 109-
150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system. Refer to proce-
dures in Service Adjustments section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Remove caliper.
(3) Remove retainers securing rotor to hub studs
(Fig. 26).
(4) Remove rotor from hub (Fig. 26).
(5) If rotor shield requires service, remove front
hub and bearing assembly.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) If new rotor is being installed, remove protec-
tive coating from rotor surfaces with Mopar carb
cleaner.It is not necessary to machine a rotor to
remove the coating. Mopar carb cleaner fol-
lowed by a rinse with brake cleaner will re-
move the coating.
(2) Install rotor on hub.
(3) Install caliper.
Fig. 23 Installing Caliper Piston
Fig. 24 Seating Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 25 Front Brake Hose And Fitting Components
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 51

(9) After power steering pump has been tightened
into position, recheck belt tension. Adjust if neces-
sary.
BELT SERVICEÐXJ MODELS WITH RIGHT HAND
DRIVE
The automatic belt tensioner is used only on
XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6-cylinder en-
gine with right hand drive steering system.
REMOVAL
(1) Attach a socket/wrench to the mounting bolt of
the automatic tensioner pulley (Fig. 7).
(2) Rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise (as
viewed from front) until tension has been relieved
from belt.
(3) Remove belt from idler pulley (Fig. 7) first. Re-
move belt from vehicle.
(4) Check condition and alignment of all pulleys.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the drive belt over all pulleysexcept
the idler pulley (Fig. 7).
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump ro-
tating in the wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 6) for
correct engine belt routing. The correct belt with
the correct length must be used
(2) Attach a socket/wrench to the pulley mounting
bolt of the automatic tensioner (Fig. 7).
(3) Rotate the socket/wrench clockwise (Fig. 7).
Place the belt over the idler pulley. Let tensioner ro-
tate back into place. Remove wrench. Be sure belt is
properly seated in the grooves of all pulleys.
AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONERÐXJ MODELS WITH
RIGHT HAND DRIVE
The automatic belt tensioner is used only on
XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6-cylinder en-
gine with right hand drive steering system.
The drive belt is equipped with a spring loaded au-
tomatic belt tensioner (Fig. 10). This belt tensioner
will be used with all belt configurations such as with
or without air conditioning.
REMOVAL
(1) Attach a socket/wrench to the mounting bolt of
the automatic tensioner pulley (Fig. 10).
(2) Rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise (as
viewed from front) until tension has been relieved
from belt.
(3) Remove belt from idler pulley (Fig. 10) first.
Remove belt from automatic tensioner.
(4) Remove tensioner mounting bolt (Fig. 10) from
tensioner bracket. Remove tensioner from vehicle.
Note alignment pin on the back of tensioner.
WARNING: BECAUSE OF HIGH SPRING PRES-
SURE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE AUTO-
MATIC TENSIONER. UNIT IS SERVICED AS AN
ASSEMBLY (EXCEPT FOR PULLEY).
(5) Remove tensioner pulley bolt. Remove pulley
from tensioner.
Fig. 8 P.S. Pump Rear Mounting BoltsÐTypical
Fig. 9 P.S. Pump Front Mounting Bolt/LocknutÐ
Typical
7 - 42 ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTSJ

INSTALLATION
(1) Install pulley and pulley bolt to tensioner.
Tighten bolt to 90 Nzm (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install tensioner assembly to mounting bracket.
An alignment pin is located on the back of tensioner.
Align this pin to the slotted hole in the mounting
bracket. Install mounting bolt and tighten to 41 Nzm
(30 ft. lbs.) torque. If automatic tensioner bracket-to-
generator mounting bracket bolts were removed,
tighten to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Position the drive belt over all pulleysexcept
the idler pulley (Fig. 10).
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump ro-
tating in the wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 6) for
correct engine belt routing. The correct belt with
the correct length must be used
(4) Attach a socket/wrench to the pulley mounting
bolt of the automatic tensioner (Fig. 10).
(5) Rotate the socket/wrench clockwise (Fig. 10).
Place the belt over the idler pulley. Let tensioner ro-
tate back into place. Remove wrench. Be sure belt is
properly seated on all pulleys.
Fig. 10 Automatic Belt TensionerÐ4.0L 6-Cylinder
Engine With RHD
JENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS 7 - 43

(4) With the degaussing tool still energized, slowly
back it away from the screw until the tool is at least
2 feet from the screw head, then unplug the tool.
(5) Place an 8-1/2 X 11 inch piece of paper, oriented
lengthwise from front to rear, on the center line of
the roof at the windshield header (Fig. 4). The pur-
pose of the paper is to protect the roof panel from
scratches and define the area to be demagnetized.
(6) Plug in the degaussing tool, while keeping the
tool at least 2 feet away from the compass unit.
(7) Slowly approach the center line of the roof
panel at the windshield header with the degaussing
tool plugged in.
(8) Contact the roof panel with the tip of the tool.
Be sure template is in place to avoid scratching the
roof panel. Using a slow, back and forth sweeping
motion and allowing 1/2-inch between passes (Fig. 4),
move the tool at least 4 inches either side of the roof
center line and 11 inches back from the windshield
header.
(9) With the degaussing tool still energized, slowly
back it away from the roof panel until the tip is at
least 2 feet from the roof. Then unplug the tool.
(10) Calibrate the compass and adjust variance as
described in this group.OVERHEAD CONSOLE REMOVE/INSTALL
(1) Remove screw forward of the compass unit (Fig.
5).
(2) Flex housing outward while pressing upward to
disengage the housing from the rear bracket (Arrow
1 in Fig. 5).
(3) Slide console rearward until the console de-
taches from the front mounting bracket (Arrow 2 in
Fig. 5).
(4) While pressing up on rear of console (Arrow 1
in Fig. 5), slide console forward, holding front away
from headliner (Arrow 2 in Fig. 5). Move console for-
ward until the rear detaches from headliner and be-
comes free (Fig. 6).
(5) Disconnect wire harnesses from keyless entry
and compass/thermometer modules (Figs. 7 and 8).
(6) Reverse removal procedures to install. Be sure
to flex housing outward near the keyless entry re-
ceiver until the console snaps onto the rear mounting
bracket.
Fig. 4 Roof Demagnetizing Pattern
Fig. 5 Remove/Install Overhead Console
Fig. 6 Remove/Install Overhead Console
8C - 6 OVERHEAD CONSOLEJ

temperature ranges. This depends upon the thick-
ness and length of the center electrodes porcelain in-
sulator.)
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
25). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 1000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
SPARK PLUG SECONDARY CABLES
TESTING
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition cables or secondary wires. The cables
transfer electrical current from the distributor to in-
dividual spark plugs at each cylinder. The spark plug
cables are of nonmetallic construction and have a
built in resistance. The cables provide suppression of
radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.Check the high-tension cable connections for good
contact at the ignition coil, distributor cap towers
and spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The terminals and spark plug covers should be in
good condition. Terminals should fit tightly to the ig-
nition coil, distributor cap and spark plugs. The
spark plug cover (boot) of the cable should fit tight
around the spark plug insulator. Loose cable connec-
tions can cause corrosion and increase resistance, re-
sulting in shorter cable service life.
Clean the high tension cables with a cloth moist-
ened with a nonflammable solvent and wipe dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. Remove the dis-
tributor cap from the distributor.Do not remove
cables from cap.Remove cable from spark plug.
Connect ohmmeter to spark plug terminal end of ca-
ble and to corresponding electrode in distributor cap.
Resistance should be 250 to 1000 Ohms per inch of
cable. If not, remove cable from distributor cap tower
and connect ohmmeter to the terminal ends of cable.
If resistance is not within specifications as found in
the Spark Plug Cable Resistance chart, replace the
cable. Test all spark plug cables in this manner.
Fig. 24 Preignition Damage
Fig. 25 Spark Plug Overheating
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
8D - 14 IGNITION SYSTEMSJ