
Hard packed  snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.  On these  surfaces, 
it’s  very  easy 
to lose control.  On wet  ice, for  example,  the traction is so poor 
that  you  will  have difficulty  accelerating.  And  if  you do get moving, poor 
steering  and difficult braking can  cause you to slide 
out of  control. 
A CAUTION: 
Driving  on frozen  lakes, ponds  or rivers  can be dangerous. 
Underwater springs,  currents  under the ice,  or sudden thaws 
can  weaken  the ice.  Your  vehicle  could  fall through the ice and 
you  and  your passengers  could drown.  Drive your vehicle  on 
safe surfaces  only. 
Driving  In Water 
Light rain causes no special  off-road  driving problems. But heavy rain can 
mean  flash  flooding,  and flood  waters demand  extreme  caution. 
Find  out how  deep  the water is before 
you drive through it. If it’s deep 
enough  to cover  your  wheel hubs,  axles, or exhaust  pipe,  don’t try 
it - you 
probably  won’t get through.  Also, water that  deep can darnage your axle  and 
other  vehicle parts. 
If  the  water isn’t  too  deep, then drive  through 
it slowly.  At fast  speeds,  water 
splashes 
on your  ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also 
occur  if you  get your tailpipe under  water. And, as long as your tailpipe  is 
under water, you’ll never  be able  to start your  engine. When 
you go through 
water,  remember  that when  your brakes get wet, 
it may take you longer to 
stop. 
A CAUTION: 
Driving through rushing water can  be dangerous.  Deep water 
can  sweep  your vehicle  downstream  and you and  your 
passengers  could drown. 
If it’s  only  inches deep,  it  can still wash 
away the ground 
from under  your tires,  and you could  lose 
l traction  and roll the vehicle  over.  Don’t  drive through rushing 
water. 
If  you  have a diesel  engme,  see  “Driving Through  Water (Diesel Engines)” 
in  the Index  for  more information on driving through  water. 
4-22 
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After Off-Road Driving 
Remove any brush  or  debris that has collected  on the underbody,  chassis or 
under the  hood.  These  accumulations  can be 
a fire hazard. 
After operation 
in mud  or  sand,  have the brake  linings cleaned  and  checked. 
These  substances  can cause  glazing  and uneven braking. Check the body 
structure,  steering,  suspension.  wheels,  tires, and exhaust system for 
damage. 
Also, check the fuel lines  and cooling  system for any leakage. 
Your  vehicle 
will require  more  frequent service due to off-road use. Refer 
to the  Maintenance  Schedule  for  additional information. 
Driving at Night 
Night driving  is  more  dangerous  than  day driving. One reason  is that  some 
drivers  are  likely 
to be  impaired - by  alcohol or drugs,  with night  vision 
problems, 
or by  fatigue. 
Here  are  some  tips on night  driving. 
0 Drive  defensively. 
Don’t  drink  and  drive. 
Adjust  your  inside  rearview mirror  to  reduce  the glare from headlamps 
Since  you can’t  see as well,  you may need  to slow  down  and keep  more 
behind 
you. 
space 
between  you and other  vehicles. 
a Slow  down,  especially  on higher  speed  roads. Your headlamps  can light 
up  only 
so much road  ahead. 
0 In remote  areas,  watch for animals. 
If you’re tired, pull  off the road  in a safe place  and rest. 
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be 
What’s 
the worst time for  this? “Wet  ice.” Very  cold snow  or ice  can 
slick and hard  to  drive 
on. But  wet ice can  be even  more trouble  because it 
may offer the least traction  of all.  You  can get “wet ice”  when  it’s about 
freezing 
(32°F; OOC) and freezing  rain begins to fall.  Try to avoid  driving 
on  wet  ice until  salt and sand  crews can get there. 
Whatever  the condition 
- smooth ice, packed, blowing  or loose snow - 
drive with caution. 
Accelerate  gently. Try  not  to break the  fragile traction. 
If you accelerate too 
fast, the  drive wheels will spin and polish the  surface under the tires  even 
more. 
Your  anti-lock  brakes improve your ability 
to make a hard  stop on a 
slippery road. Even though you have  an  anti-lock  braking system, you’ll 
want  to begin  stopping  sooner  than you would  on dry pavement.  See 
“Anti-Lock” 
in the  Index. 
Allow  greater  following  distance on any slippery road. 
Watch for slippery  spots.  The  road might  be  fine until  you  hit a spot 
that’s covered with ice. 
On an  otherwise  clear  road,  ice patches may 
appear  in shaded  areas where the  sun  can’t reach: around  clumps of 
trees, behind buildings,  or under bridges.  Sometimes the surface 
of a 
curve  or an overpass  may remain  icy  when  the  surrounding roads are 
clear.  If 
you see a patch of ice  ahe.ad of you, brake  before you are  on it. 
Try not  to brake while  you’re actually  on the ice, and avoid sudden 
steering  maneuvers. 
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Will the  trailer  brake  parts  take 3,000 psi (20 650 Wa)  of Ijressure?  If 
not,  the  trailer  brake  system  must  not  be  used with your vehicle. 
Driving  with a Trailer 
Towing  a trailer  requires  a certain  amount  of experience.  Before  setting  out 
for  the  open  road,  you’ll  want to  get  to  know  your  rig. Acquaint  yourself 
with  the  feel  of handling  and  braking  with the added  weight  of the  trailer. 
And  always  keep  in  mind that  the  vehicle  you 
are driving is now a good 
deal  longer  and  not nearly as  responsive  as your  vehicle  is  by itself. 
Before  you start,  check  the  trailer  hitch  and platform  (and attachments), 
safety  chains,  electrical  connector,  lamps,  tires  and mirror  adjustment.  If the 
trailer  has  electric  brakes,  start  your  vehicle  and  trailer  moving and  then 
apply  the  trailer  brake  controller  by hand  to  be  sure  the  brakes 
are working. 
‘This  lets  you  check  your  electrical  connection  at  the  same \
 time. 
During  your  trip,  check  occasionally  to  be sure  that  the  load  is secure,  and 
that  the  lamps  and  any trailer  brakes 
are still  working. 
Following  Distance 
Stay  at  least  twice  as far  behind  the  vehicle  ahead  as  you would when 
driving  your  vehicle  without  a trailer. 
This can  help you avoid  situations  that 
require  heavy  braking  and  sudden  turns. 
Passing 
You’ll  need more  passing  distance  up ahead  when you’re  towing  a trailer. 
And,  because  you’re  a good  deal  longer,  you’ll  need to  go  much  farther 
beyond  the  passed  vehicle  before  you can  return  to  your  lane. 
. 
Backing Up 
Hold  the  bottom of the steering  wheel with one hand.  Then,  to  move  the 
trailer  to  the  left,  just  move  that  hand to  the  left. 
To move  the  trailer  to  the 
right,  move  your  hand  to  the  right.  Always  back 
up slowly and, if possible, 
have  someone  guide  you. 
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ProCarManuals.com 

To wing Your Vehicle 
Try to have  your GM dealer or a professional  towing  service tow your 
vehicle. They  can  provide the right equipment  and know how to tow 
it 
without  damage. 
If  your  vehicle has been changed  since 
it was  factory-new.  by  adding such 
things  like  fog  lamps,  aero  skirting, 
or special tires and  wheels, these things 
could  be damaged  during  towing. 
Before  you do anything, 
turn on the hazard  warning  flashers. 
When you  call, tell the towing  service: 
0 That  your  vehicle  has  rear-wheel drive,  or that it has the four-wheel 
drive  option. 
The  make,  model, and year  of your vehicle. 
0 Whether you can  move the shift lever for the transmission  and transfer 
case, 
if you  have  one. 
If there was  an accident.  what was damaged. 
A CAUTION: 
To help  avoid  injury  to you  or others: 
Never  let  passengers ride  in a vehicle  that is  being  towed. 
0 Never  tow  faster  than  safe or posted  speeds. 
0 Never  tow  with  damaged parts not fuIly  secured. 
0 Never  get  under your vehicle  after  it has been  lifted  by the 
tow  truck. 
0 Always  use  separate safety chains on  each  side  when  towing  a 
vehicle. 
0 For  pickups  (except cab chassis  models),  use  T-hooks  on front 
. of vehicle,  J-hooks  on rear. 
For  cab  chassis  models,  use  J-hooks  on  front  and rear of 
vehicle. 
When  your  vehicle is being towed, have the ignition  key off. The  steering 
wheel  should  be clamped 
in a straight-ahead  position, with a clamping 
device  designed  for  towing, service. 
Do not use  the vehicle’s  steering 
column  lock for  this.  The  transmission  and  transfer  case, if 
you have one, 
should  be 
in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake  released. 
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Engine Fan Noise 
Your vehicle  has a  clutched  engine  cooling  fan.  When  the clutch  is  engaged, 
the  fan  spins  faster 
to provide  more  air  to cool the engine.  In most every  day 
driving  conditions  the  fan  is spinning  slower  and the clutch is 
not fully 
engaged.  This  improves  fuel  economy  and reduces fan noise. Under heavy 
vehicle  loading,  trailer  towing and/or high  outside  temperatures,  the fan 
speed  increases  as  the clutch  more  fully engages. 
So you may hear  an 
increase 
in fan  noise.  This  is normal  and should  not be mistaken  as the 
transmission  slipping  or  making extra shifts. 
It is merely  the  cooling  system 
functioning  properly. The  fan will slow  down when  additional cooling  is not 
required  and  the clutch  partially disengages. 
You  may  also  hear  this  fan  noise  when you start the  engine. It will go away 
as  the 
fan clutch  partially  disengages. 
If a Tire  Goes Flat 
It’s unusual  for  a  tire  to  “blow out”  while  you’re driving,  especially  if  you 
maintain  your tires properly.  If air  goes  out 
of a tire,  it’s much more likely to 
leak  out slowly. But  if you  should  ever have  a  “blowout,”  here  are a few tips 
about  what to  expect  and what to  do: 
If  a  front  tire fails,  the flat  tire will  create  a  drag  that pulls the vehicle 
toward that  side. Take  your  foot 
off the accelerator  pedal and  grip  the 
steering  wheel firmly,  Steer 
to maintain  lane  position,  then gently brake  to  a 
stop  well  out of 
the traffic lane. 
A rear  blowout,  particularly  on  a  curve,  acts much like  a  skid  and may 
require the  same  correction  you’d use in  a skid.  In any rear  blowout,  remove 
your 
foot from  the  accelerator  pedal. Get the vehicle  under control  by 
steering  the  way 
you want the vehicle  to go.  It may  be very bumpy  and 
noisy, but  you  can still steer.  Gently  brake to a  stop,  well 
off the road if 
possible. 
If a tire  goes  flat,  the next part  shows how to use your  jacking  equipment to 
change  a  flat  tire  safely. 
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If You’re  Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow 
What you don’t want  to  do when  your vehicle  is stuck  is to spin your wheels 
too  fast.  The  method known as  ”rocking”  can help you get out  when you’re 
stuck,  but  you  nlust use caution. 
A CAUTION: 
If you  let  your  tires  spin  at high  speed,  they  can  explode  and  you 
or  others  could  be  injured.  And,  the  transmission  or  other  par\
ts 
of  the  vehicle  can  overheat.  That  could  cause  an  engine 
compartment  fire  or  other  damage.  When  you’re  stuck,  spin  th\
e  wheels 
as little as possible.  Don’t  spin  the wheels above 35 mph 
(55 km/h) as shown  on  the  speedometer. 
I NOTICE: 
Spinning  your  wheels can  destroy  parts  of your  vehicle  as well as 
the  tires. If you  spin  the  wheels  too  fast while  shifting  your 
transmission  back  and  forth,  you can  destroy  your  transmission. 
For information  about  using tire  chains on your  vehicle,  see “Tire  Chains” 
in the Index. 
Rocking 
your vehicle  to  get  it  out: 
First. turn  your  steering  wheel left and right.  That will clear  the area around 
your  front  wheels.  Then  shift back and forth  between  REVERSE 
(R) and a 
forward  gear  (or 
with a manual  transmission,  between  FIRST (1 ) or 
SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE),  spinning  the wheels as little as possible. 
Release 
the accelerator  pedal while  you shift,  and press lightly  on the 
accelerator pedal when  the transmission 
is in gear. If that  doesn’t get you 
out after  a few tries,  you  may  need 
to be towed out. Or, you  can use your 
recovery  hooks, 
if your  vehicle has them.  If  you do need  to be towed out. 
see  “Towing  Your  Vehicle” 
in the Index. 
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Maintenance  Schedule I - Gasoline  Engines  With 
Light  Duty  Emissions 
(Continued) 
0 Check  rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check 
constant  velocity joints and axle  seals  for  leaking. 
'v'F 
0 For 2-Wheel  Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel 
bearings  (or at each brake relining, whichever  occurs  first). 
I H I 
I DATE I ACTUALMILEAGE I SERVICED BY: 
18,000 Miles (30 000 km) 
ll Change  engine oil and filter  (or every 3 months, whichever  occurs 
first). 
An Emission Corltrol Service. 
IJ Lubricate  the front  suspension,  king pin bushings,  steering  linkage, 
transmission  shift linkage, transfer case shift linkage, parking brake 
cable  guides.  rear driveline center splines. front axle propshaft splines, 
brake  pedal springs  and clutch  pedal springs.  Ball joints  and  king 
pin 
bushings  should not  be lubricated unless their temperature  is 10" F 
(-12" C), or higher.  When weather  is cold.  let  the  ball  joints and king 
pin  bushings  warm 
up before lubrication  or they  could  be damaged. 
Perform each  of the  listed  lubrication service items  at this mileage 
interval  (or every 
6 months, whichever occurs  first). 
c3 Check  readfront axle fluid  level  and add fluid  as needed. Check 
constant  velocity joints and axle seals  for leaking. 
-&-'&- .> .!, 
D Rotate  tires. See "Tire Inspection and Rotation" in the  Index  for proper 
rotation pattern  and additional  information. 
DATE SERVICED BY: ACTUAL MILEAGE 
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