1994 JEEP CHEROKEE spark plugs

CLEANING
Clean the cylinder bores thoroughly. Apply a light
film of clean engine oil to the bores with a clean lint-
free cloth.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the piston rings on the pistons if re-
moved.
(2) Lubricate the piston and rings with clean en-
gine oil.
CAUTION: Ensure that connecting rod bolts do not
scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder walls.
Short pieces of rubber hose slipped over the con-
necting rod bolts will provide protection during in-
stallation.
(3) Use a piston ring compressor to install the con-
necting rod and piston assemblies through the top of
the cylinder bores (Fig. 18).
(4) Ensure the arrow on the piston top points to
the front of the engine (Fig. 18).
(5) Raise the vehicle.
Each bearing insert is fitted to its respective jour-
nal to obtain the specified clearance between the
bearing and the journal. In production, the select fit
is obtained by using various-sized, color-coded bear-
ing inserts as listed in the Connecting Rod Bearing
Fitting Chart. The color code appears on the edge of
the bearing insert. The size is not stamped on inserts
used for production of engines.
The rod journal is identified during the engine pro-
duction by a color-coded paint mark on the adjacent
cheek or counterweight toward the flange (rear) end
of the crankshaft. The color codes used to indicate
journal sizes are listed in the Connecting Rod Bear-
ing Fitting Chart.
When required, upper and lower bearing inserts of
different sizes may be used as a pair (refer to Con-
necting Rod Bearing Fitting Chart). A standard sizeinsert is sometimes used in combination with a 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to reduce clearance
0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).
CAUTION: DO NOT intermix bearing caps. Each
connecting rod and bearing cap are stamped with
the cylinder number. The stamp is located on a ma-
chined surface adjacent to the oil squirt hole that
faces the camshaft side of the cylinder block.
(6) Install the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts in the same positions as removed.
CAUTION: Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods
face the camshaft and that the arrows on the pis-
tons face the front of the engine.
(7) Install the oil pan and gaskets as outlined in
the installation procedure.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head, push rods,
rocker arms, bridges, pivots and engine cylinder head
cover.
(10) Fill the crankcase with engine oil.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the oil pan and oil pump.
(5) Remove only one main bearing cap and lower
insert at a time (Fig. 1).
Fig. 18 Rod and Piston Assembly Installation
Fig. 1 Removing Main Bearing Caps and Lower Inserts
9 - 40 2.5L ENGINEJ

(6) Apply Loctite 515, or equivalent on the rear
bearing cap (Fig. 6). The bead should be 3 mm (0.125
in) thick. DO NOT apply Loctite 515, or equivalent
to the lip of the seal.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT
strike the cap more than twice for proper engage-
ment.
(8) Tighten the bolts of caps 1, 3, 4 and 5 to 54
Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque. Now tighten these bolts to 95
Nzm (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Finally, tighten these bolts
to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Push the crankshaft forward and backward.
Load the crankshaft front or rear and tighten cap
bolt No.2 to 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque. Then tighten
to 95 Nzm (70 ft. lbs.) torque and finally tighten to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Rotate the crankshaft after tightening each
main bearing cap to ensure the crankshaft rotates
freely.
(11) Check crankshaft end play. Crankshaft end
play is controlled by the thrust bearing which is
flange and installed at the No.2 main bearing posi-
tion.
(a) Attach a magnetic base dial indicator to the
cylinder block at either the front or rear of the en-
gine.
(b) Position the dial indicator rod so that it is
parallel to the center line of the crankshaft.
(c) Pry the crankshaft forward, position the dial
indicator to zero.
(d) Pry the crankshaft forward and backward.
Note the dial indicator readings. End play is the
difference between the high and low measurements
(Fig. 7). Correct end play is 0.038-0.165 mm(0.0015-0.0065 inch). The desired specifications are
0.051-0.064 mm (0.002-0.0025 inch).
(e) If end play is not within specification, inspect
crankshaft thrust faces for wear. If no wear is ap-
parent, replace the thrust bearing and measure end
play. If end play is still not within specification, re-
place the crankshaft.
If the crankshaft was removed, install the crank-
shaft into the cylinder block (refer to Cylinder Block -
Assemble).
(12) Install the oil pan.
(13) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Lower the vehicle.
(15) Install the spark plugs. Tighten the plugs to
37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the full
mark on the dipstick level.
(17) Connect negative cable to battery.
REAR MAIN OIL SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Discard the old bolts.
(2) Pry out the seal from around the crankshaft
flange (Fig. 8).
INSTALLATION
(1) Coat the outer lip of the replacement rear main
bearing seal with engine oil.
(2) Carefully position the seal into place. Use rear
main Seal Installer Tool 6271 to install the seal flush
with the cylinder block.
CAUTION: The felt lip must be located inside the
flywheel mounting surface. If the lip is not posi-
tioned correctly the flywheel could tear the seal.
Fig. 6 Location of Loctite 515 (or equivalent)
Fig. 7 Crankshaft End Play Measurement
9 - 44 2.5L ENGINEJ

(11) Remove the intake and engine exhaust mani-
folds from the engine cylinder head (refer to Group
11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for the
proper procedures).
(12) Disconnect the ignition wires and remove the
spark plugs.
(13) Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(14) Remove the ignition coil and bracket assem-
bly.
(15) Remove the engine cylinder head bolts. Bolt
No.14 cannot be removed until the head is moved
forward (Fig. 3). Pull bolt No.14 out as far as it will
go and then suspend the bolt in this position (tape
around the bolt).
(16) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket
(Fig. 3).
(17) If this was the first time the bolts were re-
moved, put a paint dab on the top of the bolt. If the
bolts have a paint dab on the top of the bolt or it
isn't known if they were used before, discard the
bolts.
(18) Stuff clean lint free shop towels into the cyl-
inder bores.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the engine cylinder head and cyl-
inder block mating surfaces. Clean the intake and
engine exhaust manifold and engine cylinder head
mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material and car-
bon.
Check to ensure that no coolant or foreign material
has fallen into the tappet bore area.
Remove the carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers and top of the pistons.
INSPECTION
Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check the
flatness of the engine cylinder head and block mat-
ing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition
gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY.DO NOT
use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
If the engine cylinder head is to be replaced and
the original valves used, measure the valve stem di-
ameter. Only standard size valves can be used with a
service replacement engine cylinder head unless the
replacement head valve stem guide bores are reamed
to accommodate oversize valve stems. Remove all
carbon buildup and reface the valves.
(1) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder
bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
(2) Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with
the numbers facing up) onto the cylinder block.
CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be re-
used only once. Replace the head bolts if they were
used before or if they have a paint dab on the top
of the bolt.
(3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around
bolt), install the engine cylinder head. Remove the
tape from bolt No.14.
(4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite
592 sealant, or equivalent.
(5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in se-
quence according to the following procedure (Fig. 4):
(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 30 Nzm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61
Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts (in sequence):
²Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Bolt 11 to 136 Nzm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence,
bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than
the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt
No.11.
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the cor-
rect torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt
with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you
encounter bolts which were painted in an earlier
service operation, replace them.
(6) Install the ignition coil and bracket assembly.
(7) Connect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(8) Install the spark plugs and tighten to 37 Nzm
(27 ft. lbs.) torque. Connect the ignition wires.
Fig. 3 Engine Cylinder Head Assembly
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 61

LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 12).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Leak-Down
Tester 7980.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch) di-
ameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tappet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal po-
sition.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require 20-
110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with leak-
down time interval not within this specification.
INSTALLATION
It is not necessary to charge the tappets with en-
gine oil. They will charge themselves within a very
short period of engine operation.(1) Dip each tappet in Mopar Engine Oil Supple-
ment, or equivalent.
(2) Use Hydraulic Valve Tappet Removal/Installa-
tion Tool C-4129-A to install each tappet in the same
bore from where it was originally removed.
(3) Install the exhaust and intake manifolds (refer
to Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold
for the proper procedure).
(4) Install the engine cylinder head and gasket.
(5) Install the push rods in their original locations.
(6) Install the rocker arms and bridge and pivot
assemblies at their original locations. Loosely install
the capscrews at each bridge.
(7) Tighten the capscrews alternately, one turn at
a time, to avoid damaging the bridges. Tighten the
capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Pour the remaining Mopar Engine Oil Supple-
ment, or equivalent over the entire valve actuating
assembly. The Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or
equivalent must remain with the engine oil for at
least 1 609 km (1,000 miles). The oil supplement
need not be drained until the next scheduled oil
change.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
VALVE TIMING
Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the
spark plugs.
Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assembly,
and rocker arms from above the No.1 cylinder.
Alternately loosen each capscrew, one turn at a
time, to avoid damaging the bridge.
Rotate the crankshaft until the No.6 piston is at
top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.
Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise (viewed
from the front of the engine) 90É.
Install a dial indicator on the end of the No.1 cyl-
inder intake valve push rod. Use rubber tubing to se-
cure the indicator stem on the push rod.
Set the dial indicator pointer at zero.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (viewed from the
front of the engine) until the dial indicator pointer
indicates 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) travel distance (lift).
The timing notch index on the vibration damper
should be aligned with the TDC mark on the timing
degree scale.
If the timing notch is more than 13 mm (1/2 inch)
away from the TDC mark in either direction, the
valve timing is incorrect.
If the valve timing is incorrect, the cause may be a
broken camshaft pin. It is not necessary to replace
the camshaft because of pin failure. A spring pin is
available for service replacement.
Fig. 12 Leak-Down Tester 7980
9 - 66 4.0L ENGINEJ

CAUTION: Ensure that connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose slipped over the
connecting rod bolts will provide protection during
installation.
(3) Use a piston ring compressor to install the con-
necting rod and piston assemblies through the top of
the cylinder bores (Fig. 18).
(4) Ensure the arrow on the piston top points to
the front of the engine (Fig. 18).
(5) Raise the vehicle.
Each bearing insert is fitted to its respective jour-
nal to obtain the specified clearance between the
bearing and the journal. In production, the select fit
is obtained by using various-sized, color-coded bear-
ing inserts as listed in the Connecting Rod Bearing
Fitting Chart. The color code appears on the edge of
the bearing insert. The size is not stamped on inserts
used for production of engines.
The rod journal is identified during the engine pro-
duction by a color-coded paint mark on the adjacent
cheek or counterweight toward the flange (rear) end
of the crankshaft. The color codes used to indicate
journal sizes are listed in the Connecting Rod Bear-
ing Fitting Chart.
When required, upper and lower bearing inserts of
different sizes may be used as a pair (refer to Con-
necting Rod Bearing Fitting Chart). A standard size
insert is sometimes used in combination with a 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to reduce clearance
0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).
CAUTION: DO NOT intermix bearing caps. Each
connecting rod and bearing cap are stamped with
the cylinder number. The stamp is located on a ma-
chined surface adjacent to the oil squirt hole that
faces the camshaft side of the cylinder block.
(6) Install the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts in the same positions as removed.CAUTION: Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods
face the camshaft and that the arrows on the pis-
tons face the front of the engine.
(7) Install the oil pan and gaskets as outlined in
the installation procedure.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head, push rods,
rocker arms, bridges, pivots and engine cylinder head
cover.
(10) Fill the crankcase with engine oil.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the oil pan and oil pump.
(5) Remove only one main bearing cap and lower
insert at a time (Fig. 1).
(6) Remove the lower insert from the bearing cap.
(7) Remove the upper insert by LOOSENING (DO
NOT REMOVE) all of the other bearing caps. Now
insert a small cotter pin tool in the crankshaft jour-
nal oil hole. Bend the cotter pin as illustrated to fab-
ricate the tool (Fig. 2). With the cotter pin tool in
place, rotate the crankshaft so that the upper bear-
ing insert will rotate in the direction of its locking
tab. Because there is no hole in the No.3 main jour-
nal, use a tongue depressor or similar soft-faced tool
to remove the bearing insert (Fig. 2). After moving
Fig. 18 Rod and Piston Assembly Installation
Fig. 1 Removing Main Bearing Caps and Lower
Inserts
9 - 80 4.0L ENGINEJ

(8) Check crankshaft end play. Crankshaft end
play is controlled by the thrust bearing which is
flange and installed at the No.2 main bearing posi-
tion.
(a) Attach a magnetic base dial indicator to the
cylinder block at either the front or rear of the en-
gine.
(b) Position the dial indicator rod so that it is
parallel to the center line of the crankshaft.
(c) Pry the crankshaft forward, position the dial
indicator to zero.
(d) Pry the crankshaft forward and backward.
Note the dial indicator readings. End play is the
difference between the high and low measurements
(Fig. 6). Correct end play is 0.038-0.165 mm
(0.0015-0.0065 inch). The desired specifications are
0.051-0.064 mm (0.002-0.0025 inch).
(e) If end play is not within specification, inspect
crankshaft thrust faces for wear. If no wear is ap-
parent, replace the thrust bearing and measure end
play. If end play is still not within specification, re-
place the crankshaft.
If the crankshaft was removed, install the crank-
shaft into the cylinder block (refer to Cylinder Block -
Assemble).
(9) Install the oil pan.
(10) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
(12) Install the spark plugs. Tighten the plugs to
37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the full
mark on the dipstick level.
(14) Connect negative cable to battery.
REAR MAIN OIL SEALS
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists
of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that ef-fectively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the
upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-
free operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine flywheel or converter drive
plate.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap (No.7).
(4) Push the upper seal out of the groove. Ensure
that the crankshaft and seal groove are not damaged.
(5) Remove the lower half of the seal from the
bearing cap.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the seal surface area of the crankshaft
until it is clean.
(2) Apply a thin coat of engine oil.
(3) Coat the lip of the seal with engine oil.
(4) Carefully position the upper seal into the
groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces
toward the front of the engine.
(5) Place the lower half of the seal into bearing cap
No.7 (Fig. 7).
(6) Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal
with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil (Fig.
7).
(7) Position the lower seal into the bearing cap re-
cess and seat it firmly. Be sure the seal is flush with
the cylinder block pan rail.
(8) Apply Loctite 515, or equivalent on the rear
bearing cap (Fig. 8). The bead should be 3 mm (0.125
in) thick. DO NOT apply Loctite 515, or equivalent
to the lip of the seal.
Fig. 7 Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal
Fig. 6 Crankshaft End Play Measurement
9 - 84 4.0L ENGINEJ

verter. Such conditions can exist when the engine
misfires or otherwise does not operate at peak effi-
ciency.
DO NOT remove spark plug wires from plugs or by
any other means short out cylinders. Failure of the
catalytic converter can occur due to a temperatureincrease caused by unburned fuel passing through
the converter.
DO NOT allow the engine to operate at fast idle for
extended periods (over 5 minutes). This condition
may result in excessive temperatures in the exhaust
system and on the floor pan.
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
11 - 2 EXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLDJ

(4) Inspect ignition coil connections. Verify that
coil secondary cable is firmly connected to coil (Figs.
5or6).(5) Verify that distributor cap is correctly attached
to distributor. Be sure that spark plug cables are
firmly connected to the distributor cap and the spark
plugs in their correct firing order. Be sure that coil
cable is firmly connected to distributor cap and coil.
Be sure that camshaft position sensor wire connector
is firmly connected to harness connector (Figs. 7 or
8). Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Group 8D,
Ignition System. Connect vehicle to an oscilloscope
and inspect spark events for fouled or damaged spark
plugs or cables.
(6) Verify that generator output wire, generator
connector and ground wire are firmly connected to
the generator (Fig. 9).
(7) Inspect the system ground connections at the
cylinder block behind the engine oil dipstick tube
(Fig. 10).
Fig. 4 PDCÐXJ Models
Fig. 5 Ignition CoilÐ2.5L Engine
Fig. 6 Ignition CoilÐ4.0L Engine
Fig. 7 Distributor and WiringÐ2.5L Engine
Fig. 8 Distributor and WiringÐ4.0L Engine
JFUEL SYSTEM 14 - 33