1994 JEEP CHEROKEE brake fluid

Check the outer and inner surfaces of the cylinder
for cracks or porosity, especially if wet spots were
noted on the cylinder outer surface during removal
and disassembly.
Inspect the cylinder cover, seal and retainer spring.
Replace the seal if torn or distorted and replace the
cover and spring if either part is bent or damaged in
any way.
MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
(1) Coat cylinder bore and new piston assemblies
with brake fluid.
(2) Install secondary piston in bore with push and
turn motion (Fig. 5).Do not use any tools to start
seals into bore. Tools can cut seal and scratch
bore.
(3) Insert primary piston in bore (Fig. 3).
(4) Push primary piston inward and install snap
ring (Fig. 2).
(5) Fill master cylinder reservoirs with brake fluid.
(6) Fabricate and install bleed tubes in master cyl-
inder (Fig. 6). Be sure tube ends are submerged inbrake fluid. Tubes can be fabricated from copper tub-
ing and spare brakeline fittings.
(7) Using push rod or wooden dowel (Fig. 6), press
pistons fully into bore and allow pistons to return
under spring pressure. Repeat this operation until
air bubbles cease to appear in fluid.
(8) Remove bleed tubes. Cap outlet ports and in-
stall reservoir cover and seal.
Fig. 5 Installing Secondary PistonFig. 3 Removing/Installing Primary Piston
Fig. 4 Removing Secondary Piston Assembly
Fig. 6 Master Cylinder Bleeding
JBRAKES 5 - 21

(7) Carefully move master cylinder aside and re-
move booster.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER INSTALLATION
(1) Install check valve and grommet in booster.
Also install spacer on booster, if equipped.
(2) Position booster on dash panel and install
booster mounting bolts/nuts.
(3) Working inside vehicle, install nuts on booster
mounting studs.
(4) Attach booster push rod to brake pedal. Secure
push rod with new bolt and nuts.
(5) Tighten booster mounting bolts/stud nuts to 41
Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) on XJ and 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) on YJ.
(6) Tighten pedal push rod bolt inner nut to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque. Then tighten outer locknut to
8Nzm (75 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Install master cylinder on booster studs.
Tighten attaching nuts to 21 Nzm (15 ft. lbs.).
(8) Connect vacuum hose to booster, top off master
cylinder fluid level and check brake operation.
Fig. 3 Master Cylinder Attachment (Typical)
Fig. 4 Booster Push Rod Attachment
Fig. 5 Booster Check Valve And Hose
JBRAKES 5 - 23

DISC BRAKES
INDEX
page page
Caliper Assembly........................ 29
Caliper Cleaning and Inspection............. 28
Caliper Disassembly...................... 27
Caliper Installation........................ 30
Caliper Operation and Wear Compensation..... 24
Caliper Removal......................... 27
Disc Brake Rotor Refinishing................ 32
Disc Brake Rotor Runout................... 31Disc Brake Rotor Thickness................ 31
Disc Brake Rotor Thickness Variation......... 31
Disc Brakeshoe Installation................. 26
Disc Brakeshoe Removal.................. 25
General Information....................... 24
Rotor Installation......................... 30
Rotor Removal.......................... 30
Wheel Nut Tightening..................... 32
GENERAL INFORMATION
1994 Jeep XJ/YJ models are equipped with single
piston, floating-type disc brake calipers. Ventilated,
cast rotors are used for all applications.
The disc brake calipers are supported in mounting
arms that are an integral part of the steering
knuckle. The calipers slide on mounting bolts that
also attach the calipers to the steering knuckle.
CALIPER OPERATION AND WEAR COMPENSATION
Caliper Operation
The significant feature of single piston caliper op-
eration is that the calipers are free to slide laterally
on the mounting bolts. It is the freedom of lateral
movement that allows continous compensation for
lining wear.
A simplified cross section of a single piston caliper
is shown in Figure 1. The illustration graphically
portrays the forces at work when the brakes are ap-
plied.
Upon brake application, fluid pressure exerted
against the caliper piston increases greatly. Of equal
importance, is the fact that this fluid pressure is ex-
erted equally and in all directions. What this means,
is that pressure in the caliper bore, will be exactly
the same as pressure on the piston. In other words,
pressure against piston and caliper bore will be
equal.
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brakeshoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor (Fig. 1).
At the same time, fluid pressure within the piston
bore, forces the caliper to slide inward on the mount-
ing bolts. This action brings the outboard brakeshoe
lining into contact with the outer surface of the disc
brake rotor (Fig. 1).
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehi-
cle to a stop.Brakeshoe Wear Compensation
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brakeshoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting be-
tween the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig. 2).
When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are released,
the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
brakelining wear. Generally, the amount is just
Fig. 1 Disc Brake Caliper Operation
5 - 24 BRAKESJ

enough to maintain contact between the piston and
inboard brakeshoe. Brakelining running clearance at
the rotor, will be held between zero and a maximum
of 0.12 mm (0.005 in.).
DISC BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der front brake reservoir with suction gun.
(3) Bottom caliper piston in bore with C-clamp. Po-
sition clamp screw on outboard brakeshoe and clamp
frame on rear of caliper. Typical C-clamp attachment
is shown in Figure 3.Do not allow clamp screw to
bear directly on outboard shoe retainer spring.
Use wood or metal spacer between shoe and
clamp screw if necessary.
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).If
brakeshoes are being removed to correct a pull
or drag condition, verify length of caliper bolts
as they may be incorrect length. Refer to bolt in-
formation in brakeshoe installation procedure.
(5) Tilt top of caliper outward. Use pry tool if nec-
essary (Fig. 5).
(6) Lift caliper off steering knuckle (Fig. 6).
(7)If original brakeshoes will be used, keep
them in sets (left and right); they are not inter-
changeable.(8) Remove outboard shoe. Press one end of shoe
inward to disengage shoe lug. Then rotate shoe up-
ward until retainer spring clears caliper. Press oppo-
site end of shoe inward to disengage shoe lug and
rotate shoe up and out of caliper (Fig. 7).
Fig. 2 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
Fig. 3 Bottoming Caliper Piston With C-Clamp
Fig. 4 Removing/Installing Caliper Mounting Bolts
Fig. 5 Tilting Caliper Outward
Fig. 6 Caliper Removal
JBRAKES 5 - 25

(8) Install and tighten caliper mounting bolts to
10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they will contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for required caliper bolt length.
(9) Install wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 102 Nzm (75
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brakeshoes are seated.
(11) Top off brake fluid level if necessary. Use Mo-
par brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE J1703
and DOT 3 standards only.
CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).(3) Rotate caliper rearward by hand or with pry
tool (Fig. 5). Then rotate caliper and brakeshoes off
mounting ledges.
(4) Remove caliper hose fitting bolt and disconnect
front brake hose at caliper. Discard fitting bolt wash-
ers. They are not reusable and should be replaced.
(5) Remove caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper.
(2) Pad interior of caliper with minimum, 2.54 cm
(1 in.) thickness of shop towels or rags (Fig. 15). Tow-
els are needed to protect caliper piston during re-
moval.
(3) Remove caliper piston withshort burstsof low
pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid in-
let port and ease piston out of bore (Fig. 16).
Fig. 11 Installing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 12 Installing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 13 Caliper Installation
Fig. 14 Caliper Mounting Bolt Dimensions
JBRAKES 5 - 27

CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston. Use only enough air pressure to
ease the piston out. In addition, NEVER attempt to
catch the piston as it leaves the bore. This will re-
sult in personal injury.
(4) Remove caliper piston dust boot (Fig. 17). Col-
lapse boot with suitable tool and remove and discard
boot.
(5) Remove and discard caliper piston seal with
wood or plastic tool (Fig. 18). Do not use metal tools
as they will scratch piston bore.
(6) Remove caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots (Fig. 19).
CALIPER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the caliper and piston with Mopar brake
cleaner, clean brake fluid, or denatured alcohol only.
Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner, or similar sol-
vents. These products leave a residue that will dam-
age pistons and seals.
Wipe the caliper and piston dry with lint free tow-
els or use low pressure compressed air.
Inspect the piston and piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore is corroded, rusted, pitted, or scored.
Fig. 15 Padding Caliper Interior To Protect Piston
During Removal
Fig. 16 Removing Caliper Piston
Fig. 17 Removing Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 18 Removing Caliper Piston Seal
Fig. 19 Caliper Slide Bushing And Boot
5 - 28 BRAKESJ

Do not hone the caliper piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore exhibits any of the aforementioned
conditions.
Inspect the caliper piston. The piston is made from
a phenolic resin (plastic material) and should be
smooth and clean. Replace the piston if cracked,
chipped, or scored. Do not attempt to restore a
scored, or corroded piston surface by sanding or pol-
ishing. The piston must be replaced if damaged.
CAUTION: Never interchange phenolic resin and
steel caliper pistons. The seals, seal grooves, cali-
per bores and piston tolerances are different for
resin and steel pistons. Do not intermix these com-
ponents.
Inspect the caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots. Replace the boots if cut or torn. Clean and lu-
bricate the bushings with GE 661 or Dow 111 sili-
cone grease if necessary.
Inspect condition of the caliper mounting bolts. Re-
place the bolts if corroded, rusted, or worn. Do not re-
use the bolts if unsure of their condition.
Length of the caliper mounting bolts is also ex-
tremely important.
Use the replacement bolts specified in the parts
catalog at all times. Do not use substitute bolts.
Bolts that are too long will partially apply the in-
board brakeshoe causing drag and pull. Refer to the
caliper and brakeshoe installation procedures for ser-
vice details and bolt dimensions.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Coat caliper piston bore, new piston seal and
piston with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of bush-
ing boots with GE 661, Dow 111, or Permatex Dielec-
tric silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper first. Then in-
sert bushing into boot and push bushing into place
(Fig. 20).(4) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press
seal into seal groove with finger (Fig. 21).
(5) Install dust boot on caliper piston (Fig. 22).
Slide boot over piston and seat boot in piston groove.
(6) Start caliper piston in bore by hand (Fig. 23).
Use a turn and push motion to work piston into seal.
Once piston is started in seal, press pistononly part
wayinto bore.
(7) Apply light coat of GE 661, Dow 111, or Per-
matex silicone grease to indicated areas (circumfer-
Fig. 20 Installing Bushings And Boots
Fig. 21 Installing Piston Seal
Fig. 22 Installing Dust Boot On Piston
Fig. 23 Installing Caliper Piston
JBRAKES 5 - 29

(9) Coat cylinder bore, pistons, cups and expander
with brake fluid and reassemble cylinder compo-
nents. Be sure piston cup lips face expander.
WHEEL CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) Apply small bead of silicone sealer around cyl-
inder mounting surface of support plate.
(2) Start brakeline in wheel cylinder fitting by
hand.
(3) Align and seat wheel cylinder on support plate
(Fig. 10).
(4) Install cylinder mounting bolts (Fig. 10).
Tighten bolts to 10 Nzm (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Tighten brakeline fitting to 15 Nzm (132 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) Install brakeshoes. Adjust shoes to drum with
brake gauge.
(7) Install brake drums and lower vehicle.
(8) Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes.
SUPPORT PLATE REPLACEMENT
The support plate should cleaned and inspected
whenever the drum brake components are being ser-
viced.
Check the support plate for wear, or rust through
at the contact pads and replace the plate if neces-
sary. Be sure to lubricate the contact pads with Mo-
par multi-mileage grease before shoe installation.
Lubrication will avoid noisy operation and shoe bind.
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel/tire assembly.(2) Remove brake drum, brakeshoes, and wheel
cylinder.
(3) Remove axle shaft as described in Group 3.
(4) Remove support plate attaching nuts and re-
move support plate.
(5) Clean axle tube flange. If gasket is not used on
flange, apply thin bead of silicone adhesive/sealer to
flange.
(6) Position new support plate on axle tube flange.
(7) Apply Mopar Lock N9Seal, or Loctite 242 to
support plate attaching nuts. Then install and
tighten nuts.
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease
to contact pads of new support plate.
(9) Install wheel cylinder and brakeshoes.
(10) Adjust brakeshoes to drums. Refer to proce-
dure in this section.
(11) Bleed brakes.
(12) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(13) Adjust parking brake cable tensioner. Refer to
procedure in Parking Brake section.
(14) Lower vehicle and verify proper service brake
and parking brake operation.
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
Brake drums can be machined to restore the brak-
ing surface. Use a brake lathe to clean up light scor-
ing and wear.
CAUTION: Never refinish a brake drum if machining
will cause the drum to exceed maximum allowable
brake surface diameter.
Brake drums that are warped, distorted, or se-
verely tapered should be replaced. Do not refinish
drums exhibiting these conditions. Brake drums that
are heat checked or have hard spots should also be
replaced.
If the brake drums are heavily coated with rust,
clean and inspect them carefully. Rust damage on
high mileage drums can be severe enough to require
replacement.
The maximum allowable diameter for the drum
braking surface is usually indicated on the drum
outer face (Fig. 11).
WHEEL NUT TIGHTENING
The wheel attaching lug nuts must be tightened
properly to ensure efficient brake operation. Over-
tightening the nuts or tightening them in the wrong
sequence can cause distortion of the brake rotors and
drums.
Impact wrenches are not recommended for tighten-
ing wheel nuts. A torque wrench should be used for
this purpose.
A light coat of LPS Anti-Corrosion spray lube
around the hub face and on the studs will cut down
on rust/corrosion formation.
Fig. 9 Wheel Cylinder (10-Inch Brake)
Fig. 10 Wheel Cylinder Mounting
JBRAKES 5 - 37