1993 FORD MONDEO radiator

back again, as an assistant depresses the
accelerator pedal. If the valve shows any sign
of stiffness, sticking or otherwise-inhibited
movement (and the accelerator cable is
known from the previous check to be in good
condition), spray the throttle linkage with
penetrating lubricant, allow time for it to work,
and repeat the check; if no improvement is
obtained, the complete throttle housing must
be renewed (Chapter 4).
15Unclip the air cleaner cover, and check
that the air filter element and the crankcase
ventilation system filter are not clogged or
soaked. (A clogged air filter will obstruct the
intake air flow, causing a noticeable effect on
engine performance; a clogged crankcase
ventilation system filter will inhibit crankcase
“breathing”). Renew or clean the filter(s) as
appropriate; refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapter 1 for further information, if required.
Before refitting the air cleaner cover, check
that the air intake (located under the front left-
hand wing, opening behind the direction
indicator/headlight assembly) is clear. It
should be possible to blow through the intake,
or to probe it (carefully) as far as the rear of
the direction indicator light.
16Start the engine and allow it to idle.
Note:Working in the engine compartment
while the engine is running requires great care
if the risk of personal injury is to be avoided;
among the dangers are burns from contact
with hot components, or contact with moving
components such as the radiator cooling fan
or the auxiliary drivebelt. Refer to “Safety
first!” at the front of this manual before
starting, and ensure that your hands, and long
hair or loose clothing, are kept well clear of hot
or moving components at all times.
17Working from the air intake junction at the
inner wing panel, via the air cleaner assembly
and air mass meter, to the resonator, plenum
chamber, throttle housing and inlet manifold
(and including the various vacuum hoses and
pipes connected to these), check for air leaks.
Usually, these will be revealed by sucking or
hissing noises, but minor leaks may be traced
by spraying a solution of soapy water on to
the suspect joint; if a leak exists, it will be
shown by the change in engine note and the
accompanying air bubbles (or sucking-in of
the liquid, depending on the pressure
difference at that point). If a leak is found at
any point, tighten the fastening clamp and/or
renew the faulty components, as applicable.
18Similarly, work from the cylinder head, via
the manifold (and not forgetting the related
EGR and pulse-air system components) to the
tailpipe, to check that the exhaust system is
free from leaks. The simplest way of doing
this, if the vehicle can be raised and
supported safely and with complete security
while the check is made, is to temporarily
block the tailpipe while listening for the sound
of escaping exhaust gases; any leak should
be evident. If a leak is found at any point,
tighten the fastening clamp bolts and/or nuts,
renew the gasket, and/or renew the faultysection of the system, as necessary, to seal
the leak.
19It is possible to make a further check of
the electrical connections by wiggling each
electrical connector of the system in turn as
the engine is idling; a faulty connector will be
immediately evident from the engine’s
response as contact is broken and remade. A
faulty connector should be renewed to ensure
the future reliability of the system; note that
this may mean the renewal of that entire
section of the loom - see your local Ford
dealer for details.
20Switch off the engine. If the fault is not yet
identified, the next step is to check the
ignition voltages, using an engine analyser
with an oscilloscope - without such
equipment, the only tests possible are to
remove and check each spark plug in turn, to
check the spark plug (HT) lead connections
and resistances, and to check the
connections and resistances of the ignition
coil. Refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapters 1 and 5.
21The final step in these preliminary checks
would be to use an exhaust gas analyser to
measure the CO level at the exhaust tailpipe.This check cannot be made without special
test equipment - see your local Ford dealer for
details.
Fault code read-out
22As noted in the general comments at the
beginning of this Section, the preliminary
checks outlined above should eliminate the
majority of faults from the engine
management system. If the fault is not yet
identified, the next step is to connect a fault
code reader to the ECU, so that its self-
diagnosis facility can be used to identify the
faulty part of the system; further tests can
then be made to identify the exact cause of
the fault.
23In their basic form, fault code readers are
simply hand-held electronic devices, which
take data stored within an ECU’s memory and
display it when required as two- or three-digit
fault codes. The more sophisticated versions
now available can also control sensors and
actuators, to provide more effective testing;
some can store information, so that a road
test can be carried out, and any faults
encountered during the test can be displayed
afterwards.
6•6 Emissions control systems
3.26 Location and terminal identification of engine management system self-test,
diagnosis and service connectors
1 Power steering fluid reservoir
2 Diagnosis connector - for Ford diagnostic equipment FDS 2000
3 Self-test connector - for fault code read-out - pin 17 is output terminal, pin 48 is input
terminal, pin 40/60 is earth
4 Service connector - for octane adjustment
5 Plug-in bridge - to suit 95 RON fuel
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Code Meaning Action327 EGR system exhaust gas pressure
differential sensor or solenoid valve Check components (Section 6 of this Chapter)
328 EGR system solenoid valve Check component (Section 6 of this Chapter)
332 EGR valve not opening Check component (Section 6 of this Chapter)
334 EGR system solenoid valve Check component (Section 6 of this Chapter)335 EGR system exhaust gas pressure
differential sensor Check component (Section 6 of this Chapter)
336 Exhaust gas pressure too high Check system (Section 6 of this Chapter)337 EGR system exhaust gas pressure
differential sensor or solenoid valve Check components (Section 6 of this Chapter)
338, 339 Coolant temperature sensor Carry out system test (see below)
341 Service connector earthed Unplug connector and repeat test - reconnect on completion
411 Engine speed too low during test Check for air leaks, then repeat test
412 Engine speed too high during test Check for air leaks, then repeat test
413 to 416 Idle speed control valve Check component (Chapter 4, Section 16)
452 Vehicle speed sensor Check component (Section 4 of this Chapter)
511, 512 ECU memory Check whether battery was disconnected, then check fuse 11 - if fault still
exists, renew ECU (Section 6 of this Chapter)
513 ECU reference voltage Carry out system test (see below)
519, 521 Power steering pressure switch not Check component is fitted and connected, then repeat test - if fault still
operated during test exists, carry out system test (see below)
522, 523 Selector lever position sensor Check component (Chapter 7, Part B)
536 Brake on/off switch not activated
during test Repeat test
538 Operator error during test Repeat test
539 Air conditioning switched on during test Switch off and repeat test
542, 543 Fuel pump circuit Carry out system test (see below)
551 Idle speed control valve circuit Carry out system test (see below)
552 Pulse-air system circuit Carry out system test (see below)
556 Fuel pump circuit Check fuel pump relay - if fault still exists, carry out system test (see below)
558 EGR system solenoid valve circuit Carry out system test (see below)
563 Radiator (high-speed) electric
cooling fan relay and/or circuit Carry out system test (see below)564 Radiator electric cooling fan relay
and/or circuit Carry out system test (see below)
565 Charcoal canister-purge solenoid valve Check component (Section 5 of this Chapter)573 Radiator electric cooling fan relay
and/or circuit Carry out system test (see below)
574 Radiator (high-speed) electric
cooling fan relay and/or circuit Carry out system test (see below)575 Fuel pump and/or fuel cut-off
switch circuits Carry out system test (see below)
576, 577 Accelerator pedal not depressed fully during
test procedure - automatic transmission
kickdown not activated Repeat test
621 Automatic transmission shift solenoid 1 circuit Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
622 Automatic transmission shift solenoid 2 circuit Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
624 Automatic transmission electronic
pressure control solenoid Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
625 Automatic transmission electronic
pressure control solenoid circuit Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
629 Automatic transmission torque
converter clutch solenoid Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
634 Selector lever position sensor circuit Check component (Chapter 7, Part B)
635, 637 Automatic transmission fluid temperature sensor Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
639 Automatic transmission speed sensor Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
645 Automatic transmission 1st speed Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
646 Automatic transmission 2nd speed Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
647 Automatic transmission 3rd speed Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
648 Automatic transmission 4th speed Refer to Chapter 7, Part B
653 Automatic transmission overdrive
cancel button and “Economy/Sport”
mode switch not operated during test Repeat test
998 Warning code Check fault(s) indicated by subsequent code(s)
Emissions control systems 6•9
6
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Ignition timing and base idle
speed check
Note:The following procedure is a check only,
essentially of the ECU. Both the ignition timing
and the base idle speed are controlled by the
ECU. The ignition timing is not adjustable at
all; the base idle speed is set in production,
and should not be altered.
38If the fault code read-out (with any checks
resulting from it) has not eliminated the fault,
the next step is to check the ECU’s control of
the ignition timing and the base idle speed.
This task requires the use of a Ford STAR
tester (a proprietary fault code reader can be
used only if it is capable of inducing the ECU
to enter its “Service Adjustment Programme”),
coupled with an accurate tachometer and a
good-quality timing light. Without this
equipment, the task is not possible; the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
attention.
39To make the check, apply the handbrake,
switch off the air conditioning (where fitted)
and any other electrical loads (lights, heated
rear window, etc), then select neutral (manual
transmission) or the “P” position (automatic
transmission). Start the engine, and warm it
up to normal operating temperature. The
radiator electric cooling fan must be running
continuously while the check is made; this
should be activated by the ECU, when
prompted by the tester. Switch off the engine,
and connect the test equipment as directed
by the manufacturer - refer to paragraph 26
above for details of STAR tester connection.
40Raise and support the front of the vehicle
securely, and remove the auxiliary drivebelt
cover (see Chapter 1). Emphasise the two
pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of
the crankshaft pulley, using white paint. Note
that an ignition timing reference mark is not
provided on the pulley - in the normal
direction of crankshaft rotation (clockwise,
seen from the right-hand side of the vehicle)
the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the
vehicles covered in this manual, while the
second pair indicate Top Dead Centre (TDC)
when aligned with the rear edge of the raised
mark on the sump; when checking the ignition
timing, therefore, the (rear edge of the) sumpmark should appear just before the TDC
notches (see Part A of Chapter 2, Section 4,
for further information if required).
41Start the engine and allow it to idle. Work
through the engine-running test procedure
until the ECU enters its “Service Adjustment
Programme” - see paragraph 35 above.
42Use the timing light to check that the
timing marks appear approximately as
outlined above at idle speed. Do not spend
too much time on this check; if the timing
appears to be incorrect, the system may have
a fault, and a full system test must be carried
out (see below) to establish its cause.
43Using the tachometer, check that the
base idle speed is as given in the
Specifications Section of Chapter 4.
44If the recorded speed differs significantly
from the specified value, check for air leaks,
as described in the preliminary checks
(paragraphs 15 to 18 above), or any other
faults which might cause the discrepancy.
45The base idle speed is set in production
by means of an air bypass screw (located in
the front right-hand corner of the throttle
housing) which controls the amount of air that
is allowed to pass through a bypass passage,
past the throttle valve when it is fully closed in
the idle position; the screw is then sealed with
a white tamperproof plug (see illustration). In
service, the idle speed is controlled by the
ECU, which has the ability to compensate for
engine wear, build-up of dirt in the throttle
housing, and other factors which might
require changes in idle speed. The air bypass
screw setting should not, therefore, be
altered. If any alterations are made, a blue
tamperproof plug must be fitted, and the
engine should be allowed to idle for at least
five minutes on completion, so that the ECU
can re-learn its idle values.
46When both checks have been made and
the “Service Adjustment Programme” is
completed, follow the tester instructions to
return to the fault code read-out, and
establish whether the fault has been cured or
not.
Basic check of ignition system
47If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the ignition system components,
using an engine analyser with an oscilloscope
- without such equipment, the only tests
possible are to remove and check each spark
plug in turn, to check the spark plug (HT) lead
connections and resistances, and to check
the connections and resistances of the
ignition coil. Refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapters 1 and 5.
Basic check of fuel system
48If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the fuel system components.
49Assuming that the preliminary checks
have established that the fuel pump is
operating correctly, that the fuel filter isunlikely to be blocked, and also that there are
no leaks in the system, the next step is to
check the fuel pressure (see Chapter 4). If this
is correct, check the injectors (see Chapter 4)
and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system
(see Chapter 1).
System test
50The final element of the Ford testing
procedure is to carry out a system test, using
a break-out box - this is a device that is
connected between the ECU and its electrical
connector, so that the individual circuits
indicated by the fault code read-out can be
tested while connected to the system, if
necessary with the engine running. In the case
of many of the system’s components, this
enables their output voltages to be measured
- a more accurate means of testing.
51In addition to the break-out box and the
adaptors required to connect it, several items
of specialist equipment are needed to
complete these tests. This puts them quite
beyond the scope of many smaller dealers, let
alone the DIY owner; the vehicle should be
taken to a Ford dealer for attention.
Note:This Section is concerned principally
with the sensors which give the ECU the
information it needs to control the various
engine management sub-systems - for further
details of those systems and their other
components, refer to the relevant Chapter of
this manual.
General
ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
1This component is the heart of the entire
engine management system, controlling the
fuel injection, ignition and emissions control
systems. It also controls sub-systems such as
the radiator cooling fan, air conditioning and
automatic transmission, where appropriate.
Refer to Section 2 of this Chapter for an
illustration of how it works.
Air mass meter
2This uses a “hot-wire” system, sending the
ECU a constantly-varying (analogue) voltage
signal corresponding to the mass of air
passing into the engine. Since air mass varies
with temperature (cold air being denser than
warm), measuring air mass provides the ECU
with a very accurate means of determining the
correct amount of fuel required to achieve the
ideal air/fuel mixture ratio.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
3This is an inductive pulse generator bolted
(in a separate bracket) to the cylinder
block/crankcase, to scan the ridges between
36 holes machined in the inboard (right-hand)
face of the flywheel/driveplate. As each ridge
4 Information sensors -
general information, testing,
removal and refitting
6•10 Emissions control systems
3.45 Throttle housing air bypass screw is
sealed on production with a white
tamperproof plug (arrowed)
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components are worn or damaged, the
assembly must be renewed.
18Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Pulse-air piping
Note:This component, and those around it,
will be very hot when the engine is running.
Always allow the engine to cool down fully
before starting work, to prevent the possibility
of burns.
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
20Remove the air mass meter and resonator
- refer to Chapter 4.
21Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield;
unclip the coolant hose to allow the upper
part to be withdrawn. Apply penetrating oil to
the EGR pipe sleeve nut, and to the pulse-air
system sleeve nuts.
22Remove the EGR pipe (see Section 6).
23Remove the screws securing the filter
housing to the piping - see illustration 7.16.
Unscrew the four sleeve nuts securing the
pipes into the exhaust manifold, and remove
the piping as an assembly, taking care not to
distort it (see illustration).
24Carefully clean the piping, particularly its
threads and those of the manifold, removing
all traces of corrosion, which might prevent
them seating properly, causing air leaks when
the engine is restarted.
25On refitting, insert the piping carefully into
the cylinder head ports, taking care not to
bend or distort it. Apply anti-seize compound
to the threads, and tighten the retaining sleeve
nuts while holding each pipe firmly in its port;
if a suitable spanner is available, tighten the
sleeve nuts to the specified torque wrench
setting.
26The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal.
Pulse-air filter housing and piping
assembly
Note:These components, and those around
them, will be very hot when the engine is
running. Always allow the engine to cool down
fully before starting work, to prevent the
possibility of burns.
27Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. Unbolt theresonator support bracket from the engine
compartment front crossmember. Slacken the
two clamp screws securing the resonator to
the air mass meter and plenum chamber
hoses, then swing the resonator up clear of
the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4).
28Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1)
and disconnect the coolant hose and the
coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat
housing.
29Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Apply penetrating oil to the EGR pipe sleeve
nut, and to the pulse-air system sleeve nuts.
30Remove the EGR pipe (see Section 6).
31Unscrew the filter housing mounting bolt.
Unscrew the four sleeve nuts securing the
pipes into the exhaust manifold and remove
the assembly, taking care not to distort it (see
illustration).
32Clean the piping, particularly its threads
and those of the manifold, removing all tracesof corrosion, which might prevent them
seating properly, causing air leaks when the
engine is restarted.
33On refitting, insert the piping carefully into
the cylinder head ports, taking care not to
bend or distort it. Apply anti-seize compound
to the threads, and tighten the retaining sleeve
nuts while holding each pipe firmly in its port;
if a suitable spanner is available, tighten the
sleeve nuts to the specified torque wrench
setting.
34The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal. Refill the cooling
system (see Chapter 1). Run the engine,
check for exhaust leaks, and check the
coolant level when it is fully warmed-up.
General information
1The crankcase ventilation system main
components are the oil separator mounted on
the front (radiator) side of the cylinder
block/crankcase, and the Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) valve set in a rubber
grommet in the separator’s left-hand upper
end. The associated pipework consists of a
crankcase breather pipe and two flexible
hoses connecting the PCV valve to a union on
the left-hand end of the inlet manifold, and a
crankcase breather hose connecting the
cylinder head cover to the air cleaner
assembly (see illustration). A small foam filter
in the air cleaner prevents dirt from being
drawn directly into the engine.
8 Positive Crankcase Ventilation
(PCV) system -
general information
6•18 Emissions control systems
7.23 Removing pulse-air piping - take care
not to bend or distort it7.31 Remove mounting bolt (arrowed) to
remove complete pulse-air assembly -
again, take care not to bend or distort
piping
8.1 Positive Crankcase Ventilation system
1 Oil separator
2 Gasket
3 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve4 Cylinder block/crankcase opening
5 Crankcase breather pipe and flexible hoses
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10•4 Suspension and steering systems
pressed-steel lower side arms. A tie-bar on
each side supports the rear suspension
knuckles. The coil springs are separate from
the shock absorbers (see illustration).
A rear anti-roll bar is fitted to all models. On
SI models, the front and rear shock absorbers
are gas-filled; on other models, they are filled
with fluid. Self-levelling rear shock absorbers
are fitted as standard to Ghia Estate models.
A variable-ratio type rack-and-pinion
steering gear is fitted, together with a
conventional column and telescopic coupling,
incorporating two universal joints. Power-
assisted steering is fitted to all models. A
power steering system fluid cooler is fitted, in
front of the cooling system radiator on the
crossmember (see illustration). On models
with adaptive damping, a steering position
sensor with sensor disc is located above the
upper universal joint.
On models with adaptive damping, it is
possible to select a hard or soft setting for the
front and rear shock absorbers. The system iscomputer-controlled; a switch is provided
near the handbrake lever for selection of
“Sport” or “Normal” mode. With this system, a
solenoid valve is fitted to each suspension
strut. When the valve is open, the hydraulic oil
inside the shock absorber is routed through a
bypass channel, making the action “softer”.
When the solenoid valve is closed, the shock
absorber action becomes “harder”. The
system takes into consideration the
roadspeed of the vehicle; at high speeds, the
shock absorbers are automatically set to
“hard”. The adaptive damping computer
module is located in the luggage
compartment, behind the rear seat, and
incorporates a self-test function. Adaptive
damping is not available on Estate models
(see illustrations).
When working on the suspension or
steering, you may come across nuts or bolts
which seem impossible to loosen. These nuts
and bolts on the underside of the vehicle are
continually subjected to water, road grime,mud, etc, and can become rusted or seized,
making them extremely difficult to remove. In
order to unscrew these stubborn nuts and
bolts without damaging them (or other
components), use lots of penetrating oil, and
allow it to soak in for a while. Using a wire
brush to clean exposed threads will also ease
removal of the nut or bolt, and will help to
prevent damage to the threads. Sometimes, a
sharp blow with a hammer and punch will
break the bond between a nut and bolt, but
care must be taken to prevent the punch from
slipping off and ruining the threads. Heating
the nut or bolt and surrounding area with a
blow lamp sometimes helps too, but this is
not recommended, because of the obvious
dangers associated with fire. Extension bars
or pipes will increase leverage, but never use
one on a ratchet, as the internal mechanism
could be damaged. Actually tighteningthe nut
or bolt first may help to break it loose. Nuts or
bolts which have required drastic measures to
remove them should always be renewed.
1.5 The power steering system fluid cooler
is located in front of the radiator
1.6A Adaptive damping switch located
near the handbrake lever1.6B Adaptive damping computer module
located in the luggage compartment
1.3 Rear suspension components on
Estate models
1 Tie-bar bracket
2 Short front lower arm
3 Long front upper arm
4 Shock absorber
5 Crossmember
6 Anti-roll bar
7 Coil spring
8 Rear lower arm
9 Stub axle (part of hub and bearing
assembly)
10 Knuckle
11 Brake caliper (disc brake models)
12 Hub nut
13 Brake drum
14 Splash guard (disc brake models)
15 Brake disc
16 Hub and bearing assembly
17 Backplate (drum brake models)
18 ABS wheel sensor
19 Tie-bar
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15Locate the steering column shaft on the
flexible coupling, swivel the clamp plate
round, then insert the bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
16Refit the driver’s side lower trim panel.
17Refit the steering column upper and lower
shrouds.
18Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Turn the steering wheel so that the front
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
Remove the ignition key, then turn the
steering wheel slightly as necessary until the
steering lock engages.
3Unscrew the clamp plate bolt securing the
steering column shaft to the flexible coupling.
Swivel the clamp plate around, and disengage
it from the flexible coupling stub.
4Carefully prise the rubber boot from the
bulkhead, and withdraw it into the passenger
compartment. Take care not to damage the
sealing lip of the boot.
5Using an Allen key, unscrew the clamp bolt
securing the flexible coupling to the pinion
shaft on the steering gear, and withdraw the
coupling from inside the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but tighten the clamp bolts to the
specified torque. Make sure that the rubber
boot engages correctly in the bulkhead and
on the flexible coupling.
Removal
1Remove the steering column flexible
coupling as described in Section 29.
2Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
3Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the
rear engine mounting from the transmission
and underbody.
4Extract the split pins from the track rod end
balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and
detach the rods from the arms on the steering
knuckles using a conventional balljoint
removal tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seals.
5Position a suitable container beneath the
steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts
securing the power steering fluid supply,
return, and cooler lines to the steering gear.
Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the
clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the
fluid to drain into the container. Cover the
apertures in the steering gear and also the
ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit.
6Unscrew and remove the steering gear
mounting bolts. The bolts are located on top
of the steering gear, and are difficult to reach.
Ideally, the special U-shaped Ford spanner
should be used, but it is just possible to reach
them with a normal spanner (see illustration).
7Withdraw the steering gear through the
wheel arch.
Refitting
8If the steering gear is being replaced with a
new one, the new unit will be supplied
together with union nuts already fitted. The
new nuts must only be used with new feed
and return lines - otherwise, they must be
removed and discarded. If the original lines
and union nuts are being used, the Teflon
rings on the union nuts must be renewed. To
do this, the rings must be expanded
individually onto a fitting adaptor (see
illustration), then located in the grooves of
the union nuts.
9Locate the steering gear on the subframe,
and insert the two mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque (see illustration).
Note that, if the special Ford tool is being
used, the bottom of the tool must be turned
anti-clockwise in order to tighten the
mounting bolts.10Remove the covers from the apertures on
the steering gear, then reconnect the fluid
lines and tighten the union nuts to the
specified torque. Refit the clamps and tighten
the bolts.
11Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nuts
to the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert new split pins, and
bend them back to secure.
12Refit the rear engine mounting to the
transmission and underbody, and tighten the
bolts to the specified torque.
13Refit the front wheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground.
14Refit the steering column flexible coupling
with reference to Section 29.
15Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.
16Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
clamp plate bolt securing the steering column
shaft to the flexible coupling. Swivel the clamp
plate around, and disengage it from the
flexible coupling stub.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both wheels.
4On manual transmission models,
disconnect the gearchange linkage and
support rods from the transmission, as
described in Chapter 7, Part A.
5Remove the exhaust downpipe complete,
as described in Chapter 4.
6Remove the cover from under the radiator
by unscrewing the screws and releasing the
clips.
31 Power steering gear
(left-hand-drive models with
ABS) - removal and refitting
30 Power steering gear (all except
left-hand-drive models with
ABS) - removal and refitting
29 Steering column flexible
coupling - removal and refitting
10•20 Suspension and steering systems
30.6 U-shaped Ford spanner for
unscrewing the steering gear mounting
bolts
30.8 Using an adaptor to fit the Teflon
rings to the union nuts
1 Adaptor 2 Teflon ring 3 Union nut
4 Groove location for the Teflon ring
30.9 Tightening the steering gear
mounting bolts using the U-shaped
spanner (arrowed)
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7Support the radiator in its raised position,
by inserting split pins through the small holes
in the radiator mounting extensions which
protrude through the upper mountings (see
illustration).
8Unbolt and remove the radiator lower
mounting brackets.
9Where applicable, unscrew the bolts
securing the air conditioning accumulator to
the subframe.
10Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the
engine rear mounting from the transmission
and underbody.
11Unscrew the front engine mounting-to-
cylinder block bolts, and also the through-
bolt.
12Extract the split pins from the track rod
end balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and
detach the rods from the arms on the steering
knuckles using a conventional balljoint
removal tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seals.
13Working on each side in turn, unscrew the
mounting nuts, and remove the anti-roll bar
links from the front suspension struts. Note
that, on models fitted with ABS, the ABS
sensor wiring support brackets are located
beneath the nuts.
14Working on each side in turn, note which
way round the front suspension lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle - if it is
tight, prise the joint open carefully using a
large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the
separation procedure.
15Support the weight of the front subframe
assembly on two trolley jacks (or two scissor
jacks).
16Unscrew and remove the subframe
mounting bolts, then lower the subframe
sufficiently to gain access to the power
steering fluid pipes on top of the steering
gear. Note that the front subframe mountingbolts are gold in colour - the rear ones are
silver.
17Position a suitable container beneath the
steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts
securing the power steering fluid supply,
return, and cooler lines to the steering gear.
Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the
clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the
fluid to drain into the container. Cover the
apertures in the steering gear and also the
ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit.
18Lower the subframe, together with the
power steering gear, to the ground.
19Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the power steering gear from the subframe.
20Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the
clamp bolt securing the flexible coupling to
the pinion shaft on the steering gear, and
withdraw the coupling.
21Refer to Section 30, paragraph 8 for
details of renewing the Teflon rings.Refitting
22Refit the flexible coupling to the pinion
shaft on the steering gear, then insert and
tighten the clamp bolt using an Allen key.
23Locate the power steering gear on the
subframe, then insert the mounting bolts and
tighten to the specified torque.
24Raise the subframe until it is possible to
refit the fluid lines. Tighten the union nuts and
clamps.
25Raise the subframe, making sure that the
alignment holes are in line with the holes in
the underbody. At the same time, make sure
that the flexible coupling locates correctly on
the steering column. Ford technicians use a
special tool to ensure that the subframe is
correctly aligned - refer to Chapter 2 for more
details of the alignment procedure. With the
subframe aligned, insert and tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque. Note
that the front mounting bolts are gold in
colour - the rear bolts are silver.
26Working on each side in turn, refit the
front suspension lower arm balljoint to the
knuckle assembly, and insert the clamp bolt
with its head facing forwards. Refit the nut
and tighten to the specified torque.
27Working on each side in turn, refit the
anti-roll bar links and tighten the mounting
nuts to the specified torque. On models fitted
with ABS, don’t forget to locate the wheel
sensor wiring support brackets beneath the
nuts.
28Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque. Check if the split pin holes
are aligned, and if necessary turn the nuts to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert new split pins, and
bend them back to secure.
29Refit and tighten the engine front
mounting bolts.
30Refit the engine rear mounting and tighten
the bolts.31Where applicable, insert and tighten the
air conditioning accumulator bolts.
32Refit the radiator lower mounting brackets
and tighten the bolts.
33Remove the split pins supporting the
radiator in its raised position.
34Refit the cover under the radiator.
35Refit the exhaust downpipe as described
in Chapter 4.
36On manual transmission models,
reconnect the gearchange linkage and
support rods.
37Refit the front wheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground.
38Working inside the vehicle, reconnect the
steering column clamp plate, then insert the
bolt and tighten to the specified torque.
39Reconnect the battery negative lead.
40Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.
41Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).
1Remove the track rod end and its locknut
from the track rod, as described in Section 35.
Make sure that a note is made of the exact
position of the track rod end on the track rod,
in order to retain the front wheel alignment
setting on refitting.
2Release the outer retaining clip and inner
plastic clamp band, and disconnect the gaiter
from the steering gear housing.
3Disconnect the breather from the gaiter,
then slide the gaiter off the track rod.
4Scrape off all grease from the old gaiter,
and apply to the track rod inner joint. Wipe
clean the seating areas on the steering gear
housing and track rod.
5Slide the new gaiter onto the track rod and
steering gear housing, and reconnect the
breather.
6Fit a new inner plastic clamp band and
outer retaining clip.
7Refit the track rod end as described in
Section 35.
8Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).
1Following any operation in which the power
steering fluid lines have been disconnected,
the power steering system must be bled, to
remove any trapped air.
2With the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position, check the power steering fluid level
in the reservoir and, if low, add fresh fluid until
it reaches the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” mark.
Pour the fluid slowly, to prevent air bubbles
forming, and use only the specified fluid (refer
to Chapter 1 Specifications).
33 Power steering hydraulic
system - bleeding
32 Power steering gear rubber
gaiters - renewal
Suspension and steering systems 10•21
10
31.7 Method of supporting the radiator in
its raised position
1 Radiator upper mounting extension
2 Small hole
3 Pin or split pin inserted through hole
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Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings
Body side-trim mouldings and adhesive emblems - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Bonnet lock - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bonnet release cable and lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Boot lid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Boot lid lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Central locking system components - testing, removal and refitting . 23
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 14
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Exterior mirror and glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Facia - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Glovebox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Overhead console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Sunroof - general information and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Wheel arch liner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Windscreen and fixed windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 24
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Bonnet and tailgate hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Boot lid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Front seat mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28
Seat belt mounting nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28
Bumper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
11•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
11
The bodyshell and underframe on all
models is of all-steel welded construction,
incorporating progressive crumple zones at
the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety
cell. The bulkhead behind the engine
compartment incorporates crash grooves
which determine its energy-absorption
characteristics, and special beams to prevent
the intrusion of the front wheels into the
passenger compartment during a serious
accident. All passenger doors incorporate
side impact bars.
All sheet metal surfaces which are prone tocorrosion are galvanized. The painting
process includes a base colour which closely
matches the final topcoat, so that any stone
damage is not noticeable.
Hatchback, Saloon and Estate versions are
available. The front section of the vehicle up to
the “B” pillar is identical on all models.
Automatic seat belts are fitted to all models,
and the front seat belt stalks are mounted on
automatic tensioners (also known as
“grabbers”) (see illustration). In the event of a
serious front impact, a spring mass sensor
releases a coil spring which pulls the stalk
buckle downwards and tensions the seat belt.
It is not possible to reset the tensioner once
fired, and it must therefore be renewed.
In the UK, central locking is standard on all
1 General information
1.4 Automatic seat belt tensioner
1 Coil spring 3 Spring mass sensor
2 Lever system
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