1993 FORD MONDEO gas type

2The function of these components is to
reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the oil
separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by
the engine during normal combustion.
Checking
3Checking procedures for the system
components are included in Chapter 1.
Component renewal
Cylinder head-to-air cleaner hose
4See Chapter 1.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
valve
5The valve is plugged into the oil separator.
Depending on the tools available, access to
the valve may be possible once the pulse-air
assembly has been removed (see Section 7).
If this is not feasible, proceed as outlined in
paragraph 6 below.
Oil separator
6Remove the exhaust manifold (see Chap-
ter 2, Part A). The Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) valve can now be unplugged
and flushed, or renewed, as required, as
described in Chapter 1.
7Unbolt the oil separator from the cylinder
block/crankcase, and withdraw it; remove and
discard the gasket.
8Flush out or renew the oil separator, as
required (see Chapter 1).
9On reassembly, fit a new gasket, and
tighten the fasteners to the torque wrench
settings given in the Specifications Section of
Chapter 2, Part B.
10The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal. Refill the cooling
system (see Chapter 1). Run the engine,
check for exhaust leaks, and check the
coolant level when it is fully warmed-up.
General information
1The exhaust gases of any petrol engine
(however efficient or well-tuned) consist
largely (approximately 99 %) of nitrogen (N
2),
carbon dioxide (CO
2), oxygen (O2), other inert
gases and water vapour (H
2O). The remaining
1 % is made up of the noxious materials
which are currently seen (CO
2apart) as the
major polluters of the environment: carbon
monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC),oxides of nitrogen (NO
x) and some solid
matter, including a small lead content.
2Left to themselves, most of these pollutants
are thought eventually to break down naturally
(CO and NO
x, for example, break down in the
upper atmosphere to release CO
2) having first
caused ground-level environmental problems.
The massive increase world-wide in the use of
motor vehicles, and the current popular
concern for the environment has caused the
introduction in most countries of legislation, in
varying degrees of severity, to combat the
problem.
3The device most commonly used to clean
up vehicle exhausts is the catalytic converter.
It is fitted into the vehicle’s exhaust system,
and uses precious metals (platinum and
palladium or rhodium) as catalysts to speed
up the reaction between the pollutants and
the oxygen in the vehicle’s exhaust gases, CO
and HC being oxidised to form H
2O and CO2and (in the three-way type of catalytic
converter) NO
xbeing reduced to N2. Note:
The catalytic converter is not a filter in the
physical sense; its function is to promote a
chemical reaction, but it is not itself affected
by that reaction.
4The converter consists of an element (or
“substrate”) of ceramic honeycomb, coated
with a combination of precious metals in such
a way as to produce a vast surface area over
which the exhaust gases must flow; the whole
being mounted in a stainless-steel box. A
simple “oxidation” (or “two-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO and HC only,
while a “reduction” (or “three-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO, HC and NO
x.
Three-way catalytic converters are further
sub-divided into “open-loop” (or
“uncontrolled”) converters which can remove
50 to 70 % of pollutants and “closed-loop”
(also known as “controlled” or “regulated”)
converters which can remove over 90 % of
pollutants.
5The catalytic converter fitted to the Mondeo
models covered in this manual is of the three-
way closed-loop type.
6The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
(a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency, and
will eventually destroy the converter; it will
also affect the operation of the oxygen
sensor, requiring its renewal if lead-
fouled. Opinions vary as to how much
leaded fuel is necessary to affect the
converter’s performance, and whether it
can recover even if only unleaded petrol is
used afterwards; the best course of action
is, therefore, to assume the worst, and to
ensure that NO leaded petrol is used at
any time.
(b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systemswell-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule (Chapter 1) -
particularly, ensure that the air filter
element, the fuel filter and the spark plugs
are renewed at the correct intervals. If the
intake air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
(c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above. For the
same reason, do not persist if the engine
refuses to start - either trace the problem
and cure it yourself, or have the vehicle
checked immediately by a qualified
mechanic.
(d) Avoid allowing the vehicle to run out of
petrol.
(e) DO NOT push- or tow-start the vehicle
unless no other alternative exists,
especially if the engine and exhaust are at
normal operating temperature. Starting
the engine in this way may soak the
catalytic converter in unburned fuel,
causing it to overheat when the engine
does start - see (b) above.
(f) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds, in particular, do not “blip”
the throttle immediately before switching
off. If the ignition is switched off at
anything above idle speed, unburned fuel
will enter the (very hot) catalytic converter,
with the possible risk of its igniting on the
element and damaging the converter.
(g) Avoid repeated successive cold starts
followed by short journeys. If the
converter is never allowed to reach its
proper working temperature, it will gather
unburned fuel, allowing some to pass into
the atmosphere and the rest to soak in
the element, causing it to overheat when
a long journey is made - see (b) above.
(h) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter. Similarly, DO NOT
use silicone-based sealants on any part of
the engine or fuel system, and do not use
exhaust sealants on any part of the
exhaust system upstream of the catalytic
converter. Even if the sealant itself does
not contain additives harmful to the
converter, pieces of it may break off and
foul the element, causing local
overheating.
(i) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. Unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases, the element will overheat.
(j) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
9 Catalytic converter -
general information, checking
and component renewal
Emissions control systems 6•19
6
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10•4 Suspension and steering systems
pressed-steel lower side arms. A tie-bar on
each side supports the rear suspension
knuckles. The coil springs are separate from
the shock absorbers (see illustration).
A rear anti-roll bar is fitted to all models. On
SI models, the front and rear shock absorbers
are gas-filled; on other models, they are filled
with fluid. Self-levelling rear shock absorbers
are fitted as standard to Ghia Estate models.
A variable-ratio type rack-and-pinion
steering gear is fitted, together with a
conventional column and telescopic coupling,
incorporating two universal joints. Power-
assisted steering is fitted to all models. A
power steering system fluid cooler is fitted, in
front of the cooling system radiator on the
crossmember (see illustration). On models
with adaptive damping, a steering position
sensor with sensor disc is located above the
upper universal joint.
On models with adaptive damping, it is
possible to select a hard or soft setting for the
front and rear shock absorbers. The system iscomputer-controlled; a switch is provided
near the handbrake lever for selection of
“Sport” or “Normal” mode. With this system, a
solenoid valve is fitted to each suspension
strut. When the valve is open, the hydraulic oil
inside the shock absorber is routed through a
bypass channel, making the action “softer”.
When the solenoid valve is closed, the shock
absorber action becomes “harder”. The
system takes into consideration the
roadspeed of the vehicle; at high speeds, the
shock absorbers are automatically set to
“hard”. The adaptive damping computer
module is located in the luggage
compartment, behind the rear seat, and
incorporates a self-test function. Adaptive
damping is not available on Estate models
(see illustrations).
When working on the suspension or
steering, you may come across nuts or bolts
which seem impossible to loosen. These nuts
and bolts on the underside of the vehicle are
continually subjected to water, road grime,mud, etc, and can become rusted or seized,
making them extremely difficult to remove. In
order to unscrew these stubborn nuts and
bolts without damaging them (or other
components), use lots of penetrating oil, and
allow it to soak in for a while. Using a wire
brush to clean exposed threads will also ease
removal of the nut or bolt, and will help to
prevent damage to the threads. Sometimes, a
sharp blow with a hammer and punch will
break the bond between a nut and bolt, but
care must be taken to prevent the punch from
slipping off and ruining the threads. Heating
the nut or bolt and surrounding area with a
blow lamp sometimes helps too, but this is
not recommended, because of the obvious
dangers associated with fire. Extension bars
or pipes will increase leverage, but never use
one on a ratchet, as the internal mechanism
could be damaged. Actually tighteningthe nut
or bolt first may help to break it loose. Nuts or
bolts which have required drastic measures to
remove them should always be renewed.
1.5 The power steering system fluid cooler
is located in front of the radiator
1.6A Adaptive damping switch located
near the handbrake lever1.6B Adaptive damping computer module
located in the luggage compartment
1.3 Rear suspension components on
Estate models
1 Tie-bar bracket
2 Short front lower arm
3 Long front upper arm
4 Shock absorber
5 Crossmember
6 Anti-roll bar
7 Coil spring
8 Rear lower arm
9 Stub axle (part of hub and bearing
assembly)
10 Knuckle
11 Brake caliper (disc brake models)
12 Hub nut
13 Brake drum
14 Splash guard (disc brake models)
15 Brake disc
16 Hub and bearing assembly
17 Backplate (drum brake models)
18 ABS wheel sensor
19 Tie-bar
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Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
Note:For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as
details on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any
other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order
to create a slight depression for the filler paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.
4 Minor body damage - repair
3 Maintenance -
upholstery and carpets
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11
If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,
particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.
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door, then drive the hinge pins down through
the hinges using a small drift (see
illustrations).
6Carefully withdraw the door from the
hinges.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but check that the door lock
passes over the striker centrally. If necessary,
re-position the striker.
Removal
1Where electric mirrors are fitted, disconnect
the battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5,
Section 1).
2Prise off the cap, unscrew the screw, and
remove the quarter bezel from the front of the
window opening.
3On manual mirrors, detach the adjustment
lever.
4On electric mirrors, disconnect the wiring
multi-plug (see illustration).
5On both types of mirror, use a Torx key to
unscrew the mirror mounting screws, then
withdraw the mirror from the outside of the
door (see illustrations). Recover the gasket.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Using a length of strong thin cord or fishing
line, break the adhesive bond between the
base of the mirror and the glass. Have an
assistant support and remove the mirror as it
is released.
2If the original mirror is to be refitted,
thoroughly clean its base with methylated
spirit and a lint-free cloth. Allow a period of
one minute for the spirit to evaporate. Clean
the windscreen black patch in a similar
manner.
Refitting
3During the installation of the mirror, it is
important that the mirror base, windscreen
black patch and the adhesive patch are not
touched or contaminated in any way,
otherwise poor adhesion will result.
4Prior to fitting the mirror, the vehicle should
have been at an ambient temperature of at
least 20ºC.
5With the contact surfaces thoroughly
cleaned, remove the protective tape from one
side of the adhesive patch, and press it firmly
into contact with the mirror base.
6If fitting the mirror to a new windscreen, the
protective tape must also be removed from
the windscreen black patch.
7Using a hairdryer or a hot air gun, warm themirror base and the adhesive patch for about
30 seconds to a temperature of 50 to 70ºC.
Peel back the protective tape from the other
side of the adhesive patch on the mirror base.
Align the mirror base and the windscreen
patch, and press the mirror firmly into
position. Hold the base of the mirror firmly
against the windscreen for a minimum period
of two minutes, to ensure full adhesion.
8Wait at least thirty minutes before adjusting
the mirror position.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1), and open the boot lid.
2Where applicable, pull off the trim covering,
and release the wiring on the hinge arm.
3Where fitted, remove the trim from inside
the boot lid.
4Disconnect the wiring at the connectors
visible through the boot lid inner skin aperture.
5Attach a length of strong cord to the end of
the wires in the aperture, to act as an aid to
guiding the wiring through the lid when it is
refitted.
6Release the cable guide rubber grommet,
and withdraw the wiring loom through it. Untie
the cord, and leave it in the boot lid.
7Mark the position of the hinge arms with a
pencil.
8Place rags beneath each corner of the boot
lid, to prevent damage to the paintwork.
9With the help of an assistant, unscrew the
mounting bolts and lift the boot lid from the
car.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Check that the boot lid is correctly
aligned with the surrounding bodywork, with
an equal clearance around its edge.
Adjustment is made by loosening the hinge
bolts, and moving the boot lid within the
elongated mounting holes. Check that the
lock enters the striker centrally when the boot
lid is closed.
18 Boot lid - removal and refitting
17 Interior mirror -
removal and refitting
16 Exterior mirror and glass-
removal and refitting
11•14 Bodywork and fittings
15.5A . . . then drive out the hinge pins . . .15.5B . . . and remove them16.4 Disconnecting the wiring multi-plug
from an electric exterior mirror
16.5A Unscrew the screws . . .16.5B . . . and withdraw the mirror
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BulbsWattage Type
Headlight main beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen
Headlight dipped beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen
Foglights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen
Sidelights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Wedge
Direction indicator lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bayonet
Side repeater lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Wedge
Stop-lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bayonet
Reversing lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bayonet
Rear fog/tail lights (Saloon and Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21/4 Bayonet
Rear tail light (Saloon and Hatchback) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Bayonet
Number plate lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Festoon
Engine compartment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Wedge
Interior lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Festoon
Reading light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Wedge
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Windscreen wiper motor bolts:
Into old motor (see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Into new motor (see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Body electrical system 12•3
12
Warning: Before carrying out any
work on the electrical system,
read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of
this manual.The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid battery which is charged by the
alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, ignition system,alternator, and starter motor can be found in
Chapter 5.
All models are fitted with a driver’s air bag,
which is designed to prevent serious chest
and head injuries to the driver during an
accident. A similar bag for the front seat
passenger is also available (see illustration).
The sensor and electronic unit for the air bag
is located next to the steering column inside
the vehicle, and contains a back-up capacitor,
crash sensor, decelerometer, safety sensor,
integrated circuit and microprocessor (see
illustration). The air bag is inflated by a gas
generator, which forces the bag out of the
module cover in the centre of the steering
wheel. A “clock spring” ensures that a good
electrical connection is maintained with the air
bag at all times - as the steering wheel is
turned in each direction, the spring winds and
unwinds.
All UK models are fitted with an alarm
system incorporating a movement sensor and
ignition immobiliser. On Saloon and
Hatchback models, the alarm system horn is
located on the left-hand side of the luggage
1 General information
1.3A Air bag system components
1 Air bag module (driver’s)
2 Clock spring3 Diagnostic and sensor unit
4 Air bag indicator light5 Air bag module
(passenger’s)
1.3B Air bag sensor and electronic unit
1 Crash sensor
2 Safety sensor
3 Voltage back-up
4 Application Specific Integrated Circuit
5 Microprocessor
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REF•9
Excessive fuel consumption
m mUnsympathetic driving style, or adverse conditions.
m mAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapters 5 and 6).
m mTyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m
mDamaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 1).
m mCharcoal canister and/or connecting pipes leaking (Chapter 6).
Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
mLeaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1, 2 Part A,
and 4).
m mLeaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapter 1).
m mBroken mountings, causing body or suspension contact (Chap-
ters 1 and 4).
Fault Finding
3 Fuel and exhaust system
Noisy in neutral with engine running
m mInput shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7, Part A).*
m mClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 8).
Noisy in one particular gear
m mWorn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7, Part A).*
Difficulty engaging gears
m
mClutch fault (Chapter 8).
m mWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).
m mIncorrectly-adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).
m mWorn synchroniser assemblies (Chapter 7, Part A).*
Vibration
m
mLack of oil (Chapter 1).
m mWorn bearings (Chapter 7, Part A).*
Jumps out of gear
m
mWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).
m mIncorrectly-adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).
m mWorn synchroniser assemblies (Chapter 7, Part A).*
m mWorn selector forks (Chapter 7, Part A).*
Lubricant leaks
m
mLeaking differential side gear oil seal (Chapter 7, Part A).
m mLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7, Part A).*
m mLeaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7, Part A).*
m mLeaking selector shaft oil seal (Chapter 7, Part A).
m mLeaking speedometer drive pinion O-ring (Chapter 7, Part A).
* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, so
that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.
4 Clutch
5 Manual transmission
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
m mBroken clutch cable (Chapter 8).
m mIncorrect clutch adjustment (Chapter 8).
m mBroken clutch release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).
m mBroken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 8).
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m
mIncorrect clutch adjustment (Chapter 8).
m mClutch disc sticking on transmission input shaft splines (Chapter 8).
m mClutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 8).
m mClutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 8).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no
increase in vehicle speed)
m mIncorrect clutch adjustment (Chapter 8).
m mClutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 8).m mClutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 8).
Judder as clutch is engaged
m
mClutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 8).
m mClutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 8).
m mClutch cable sticking or frayed (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 8).
m mWorn or loose engine/transmission mountings (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mClutch disc hub or transmission input shaft splines worn (Chap-
ter 8).
Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m mWorn clutch release bearing (Chapter 8).
m mWorn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 8).
m mPressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 8).
m mBroken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 8).
Internal coolant leakage
m
mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mCracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2, Part B).
Corrosion
m
mInfrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect antifreeze mixture, or inappropriate antifreeze type
(Chapter 1).
procarmanuals.com

REF•14Glossary of Technical Terms
Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.
Crocodile clipSee Alligator clipDDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
F
Fan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.
Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Feeler blade
procarmanuals.com

REF•15Glossary of Technical Terms
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the side
electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.
Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to
the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Adjusting spark plug gap
Plastigage
Gasket
procarmanuals.com