1993 CHEVROLET PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM light

-37ÉC (-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed solution.
SERVICE
Coolant should be changed at 52,500 miles or three
years, whichever occurs first, then every two years or
30,000 miles.
ROUTINE LEVEL CHECK
Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant
level inspections. The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without re-
moving the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the
engine idling and warmed up to normal operating
temperature, that the level of the coolant in the reserve
tank (Figs. 5 and 6) is between the minimum and
maximum marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The radiator cap should not be removed. When
additional coolant is needed to maintain this level, it
should be added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only
50/50 concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze
and water.
SERVICE COOLANT LEVEL
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator. When servicing requires a coolant level check in the
radiator, the engine must be offand notunder pres-
sure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the radiator
drain cock while observing the Coolant Recovery Sys-
tem (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the CRS tank should
drop slightly. Then remove the radiator cap. The radia-
tor should be full to the top. If not, and the coolant level
in the CRS tank is at the MIN mark there is a air leak
in the CRS system. Check hose or hose connections to
the CRS tank, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap
seal to the radiator filler neck for leaks.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equal-
ize in both tanks with engine off. With engine at
running operating temperature the high pressure inlet
tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops.
If this level drops below the top of the transmission oil
cooler, air will be sucked into the water pump:
² Transmission oil will become hotter.
² High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
² Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow through
the heater.
² Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also cause the
same problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gather-
ing under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will
be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS tank by
thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the
atmosphere in the CRS tank and is replaced with solid
coolant on cool down.
COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN, CLEAN, FLUSH AND
REFILL
Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at the
mileage or time intervals specified in the Maintenance
Schedule in this Group. If the solution is dirty or rusty
or contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean
and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Care
should be taken in disposing of the used engine coolant
from your vehicle. Check governmental regulations for
disposal of used engine coolant.
DRAINING
To drain cooling system move temperature selector
for heater to full heat with engine running (to provide
vacuum for actuation). Without removing radiator
pressure cap and with system not under pres-
sure, Shut engine off and open draincock. The coolant
reserve tank (Fig. 5) should empty first, then remove
radiator pressure cap. (if not, see Testing Cooling
System for leaks). To vent 2.2/2.5L engines remove the
plug above thermostat housing (Fig. 1). For Turbo III
engines remove coolant temperature sensor in the
thermostat housing (Fig. 2). For 3.3L /3.8L engine
remove the engine temperature sending unit (Fig. 3).
Removal of a plug or other component is required
because the thermostat has no air vent and prevents
air flow through it. This allows the coolant to drain
from the engine block.
Fig. 1 Thermostat Housing Drain/Fill PlugÐ2.2/2.5L Engines
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Radiators are equipped with a pressure cap which
releases pressure at some point within a range of
97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) (Fig. 7). The system will operate at higher than atmospheric
pressure which raises the coolant boiling point allow-
ing increased radiator cooling capacity. There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap that
allows a small coolant flow to the CRS tank. If valve is
stuck shut, the radiator hoses will be collapsed
on cool down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 7) to
ensure proper sealing when boiling point is
reached.
There is also a gasket in the cap to seal to the top of
the filler neck so that vacuum can be maintained for
drawing coolant back into the radiator from the coolant
reserve system tank.
RADIATOR CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL PRES- SURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure relief
can be checked by removing the overflow hose at the
radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 7). Attach the Radiator
Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and pump air
into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gasket should
relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold pressure at
55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS
HOT AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
time except for the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new antifreeze.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE) BE-
FORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST STOP IS
RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAPS
Dip the pressure cap in water, clean any deposits off
the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
Radiator Pressure Tool. Working the plunger, bring the
pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the
pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa
(14 psi) replace cap. See CAUTION
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned on
Radiator Pressure Tool, but will not hold pressure or
vacuum when positioned on the radiator. Inspect the
radiator filler neck and cap top gasket for irregularities
that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator Pressure Tool is very sensitive to
small air leaks which will not cause cooling system
problems. A pressure cap that does not have a
history of coolant loss should not be replaced just
because it leaks slowly when tested with this tool.
Add water to the tool. Turn tool upside down and
recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap is bad.
INSPECTION
Hold the cap in hand, right side up(Fig. 7). The
vent valve at the bottom of the cap should open. If the
rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from
opening, replace the cap. Hold the cleaned cap in hand upside down.If any
light can be seen between vent valve and rubber
gasket, replace cap. Do not use a replacement cap
that has a spring to hold the vent shut. Replacement cap must be of the type designed for
coolant reserve systems. This design assures coolant
return to radiator.
RADIATORS
The radiators are crossflow types (horizontal tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength as
well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep the
engine satisfactorily cooled.
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass
are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
Fig. 7 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
7 - 18 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
On all models an engine block heater is available as
an optional accessory. The heater, operated by ordinary
house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and
connector behind the radiator grille, provides easier
engine starting and faster warm-up when vehicle is
operated in areas having extremely low temperatures.
The heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a core
hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating ele-
ment immersed in coolant (Fig. 9). The power cord must be secured in its retainer
clips, and not positioned so it could contact link-
ages or exhaust manifolds and become damaged. If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either the
power cord or the heater element. Test power cord for
continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-volt test
light; test heater element continuity with an ohmmeter
or 12-volt test light.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
Refer to Cooling System Drain, Clean, Flush and Re-
fill of this section for procedure. (2) Detach power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly with element loop posi-
tioned upward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw se-
curely to assure a positive seal. (4) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper
level, vent air, and inspect for leaks. Pressurize sys-
tem with Radiator Pressure Tool before looking for
leaks.
Fig. 9 Engine Block Heater
7 - 28 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

BATTERY/STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS
CONTENTS
page page
BATTERY TEST PROCEDURES ON-VEHICLE . . 3
FAULT CODESÐON BOARD DIAGNOSTICS . . 23
GENERAL INFORMATION .................. 1
GENERATOR TEST PROCEDURES ON VEHICLE.19 IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)
............... 9
SPECIFICATIONS ....................... 28
STARTER TEST PROCEDURES ON VEHICLE . 11
GENERAL INFORMATION
² For Battery, Starter or Generator replacement re-
fer to Group 8B, Battery/Starter/Generator Service.
This Group 8A will cover diagnostics only. The Battery, Starting, and Charging Systems oper-
ate with one another, and must be thoroughly tested
as a complete system. To enable the vehicle to start
and charge properly, it must have a battery that will
perform to specifications. The starter motor, genera-
tor, wiring, and electronics also must perform within
specifications. Group 8A will cover Starting (Fig. 1)
and Charging System (Fig. 2) diagnostic procedures.
These will be covered from the most basic conven-
tional methods to On Board Diagnostics (OBD) built
into the vehicle's electronics. The need for conven-
tional testing equipment has not been eliminated by
the introduction of OBD. Frequent use of an amme-
ter, volt/ohmmeter, battery charger, carbon pile rheo-
stat (load tester), and 12 volt (low wattage) test light
will be required. All front wheel drive vehicles are equipped with
OBD and all OBD sensing systems are monitored by
the Powertrain Control Module. The Powertrain Con-
trol module will store in electronic memory, any de-
tectable failure within the monitored circuits. It will
retain this information for a period of 50 engine
starts, then erase the memory if the failure does not
reoccur during that period. This also will translate a
monitored failure as a FAULT CODE when a read-
out command is given. A readout command can be
made by turning the ignition switch to ON-OFF-ON-
OFF-ON without starting the engine. The Malfunc-
tion Indicator (CHECK ENGINE) Lamp on the
instrument cluster will flash in preset sequences to
show Fault Codes. However, the Malfunction Indica-
tor (Check Engine) Lamp cannot express fault codes
for all failures. Fault codes are easier to obtain and
more complete with the use of Diagnostic Tool (DRB
II). This tool is plugged into the diagnostic connector located in the engine compartment (Fig. 2). Refer to
the instructions provided with the (DRB II) tool be-
ing used. For numbered Fault Codes pertaining to compo-
nents within this Group, refer to Failure CodesÐOn
Board Diagnostics in Group 8A. For other Fault
Codes which, do not pertaining to this Group 8A, re-
fer to Group 14, Fuel System, On Board Diagnostics.
Fig. 1 Starting System Components
Ä BATTERY/STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS 8A - 1

It is important when using the Test Indicator that
the battery be level and have a clean top to see the
correct indications. A light may be required to view
the Indicator.
WARNING: DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME NEAR BAT-
TERY BECAUSE OF EXPLOSIVE GASES AT FORM
ABOVE BATTERY.
STATE OF CHARGE TESTS
USING TEST INDICATOR
The built in test hydrometer (Figs. 3, 4 and 5) mea-
sures the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Specific
Gravity (SG) of the electrolyte will show state of
charge voltage. The test indicator WILL NOT show
cranking capacity of the battery. Refer to Battery
Load. Look into the sight glass (Figs. 4 and 5) and
note the color of the indicator (Fig. 5). Refer to the
following description of colors:
² GREEN = 75 to 100 degree state of charge
The battery is adequately charged for further test-
ing and may be returned to use. If the vehicle will
not crank for a maximum 15 seconds, refer to Bat-
tery Load Test in this Group for more information.
² BLACK OR DAR K=0to75degree state of
charge The battery is INADEQUATELY charged and
must be charged until green dot is visible, (12.4 volts
or greater) before the battery is tested or returned to
use. Refer to Causes of Battery Discharging.
² YELLOW OR BRIGHT COLOR = Battery must
be replace
WARNING: DO NOT CHARGE, ASSIST BOOST,
LOAD TEST, OR ADD WATER TO THE BATTERY
WHEN YELLOW OR BRIGHT COLOR DOT IS VISI-
BLE. PERSONAL INJURY MAY OCCUR.
A yellow or bright color dot shows electrolyte level
in battery is below the test indicator (Fig. 5). Water
cannot be added to a maintenance free battery. The
battery must be replaced. A low electrolyte level may
be caused by an over charging condition. Refer to
Generator Test Procedures on Vehicle.
CAUSES OF BATTERY DISCHARGING
It is normal to have a small 5 to 30 milliamperes
continuous electrical draw from the battery. This
draw will take place with the ignition in the OFF po-
sition, and the courtesy, dome, storage compart-
ments, and engine compartment lights OFF. The
continuous draw is due to various electronic features
or accessories that require electrical current with the
ignition OFF to function properly. When a vehicle is
not used over an extended period approximately 20
days the Main Fusible Link Connector (Fig. 6)
should be disconnected. This is located near the bat- tery on the engine wiring harness. Disconnection of
this connector will help prevent battery discharging.
Refer to Fig. 7 for Battery Diagnostics.
ABNORMAL BATTERY DISCHARGING
(1) Corroded battery posts, cables or terminals.
(2) Loose or worn generator drive belt.
(3) Electrical loads that exceed the output of the
charging system due to equipment or accessories in-
stalled after delivery. (4) Slow driving speeds in heavy traffic conditions
or prolonged idling with high-amperage electrical
systems in use. (5) Defective electrical circuit or component caus-
ing excess Ignition Off Draw (IOD). Refer to Ignition
OFF Draw (IOD). (6) Defective charging system.
(7) Defective battery.
BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST
An open circuit voltage, no load test will show the
state of charge in a battery. Also, if it will pass a
load test of 50 percent of the battery cold crank rat-
ing. Refer to Battery Load Test. If a battery has an
open circuit voltage reading of 12.4 volts or greater,
and will not pass a load test, it is defective and re-
placement would be required. To test open circuit
voltage, perform the following operation: (1) Remove both battery cables, negative first. If
the battery has been boosted, charged, or loaded just
prior to this operation, allow the battery a few min-
utes to stabilize. (2) Using a voltmeter connected to the battery
posts and measure the open circuit voltage (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Main Fusible Link Connector
8A - 4 BATTERY/STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS Ä

After 15 seconds, record the loaded voltage reading
and return the load control to the off position. (6) Voltage drop will vary according to battery
temperature at the time of the load test. Battery
temperature can be estimated by the temperature of
exposure over the preceding several hours. If the bat-
tery has been charged, boosted, or loaded a few min-
utes prior to the test, the battery would be slightly
warmer. Refer to Fig. 14 for proper loaded voltage
reading.
(7) If battery passes load test, it is in good condi-
tion and further tests are not necessary. If it fails
load test, it should be replaced.
BATTERY CHARGING
A battery is considered fully charged when it will
meet all the following requirements:
² It has an open circuit voltage charge of at least
12.4 volts (Fig. 9)
² It passes the 15 second load test (Fig. 14)
² The built in test indicator dot is GREEN (Fig. 5)
² The battery cannot be refilled with water. It must
be replaced WARNING: DO NOT CHARGE A BATTERY THAT
HAS EXCESSIVELY LOW ELECTROLYTE LEVEL.
BATTERY MAY SPARK INTERNALLY AND EX-
PLODE. EXPLOSIVE GASES FORM OVER THE BATTERY.
DO NOT SMOKE, USE FLAME, OR CREATE
SPARKS NEAR BATTERY. DO NOT ASSIST BOOST OR CHARGE A FROZEN
BATTERY. BATTERY CASING MAY FRACTURE. BATTERY ACID IS POISON, AND MAY CAUSE SE-
VERE BURNS AND THE BATTERY CONTAIN SUL-
FURIC ACID. AVOID CONTACT WITH SKIN, EYES,
OR CLOTHING. IN THE EVENT OF CONTACT,
FLUSH WITH WATER AND CALL PHYSICIAN IMME-
DIATELY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
CAUTION: Disconnect the battery negative cable
first (Fig. 15) before charging battery to avoid dam-
age to electrical systems. Do not exceed 16.0 volts
while charging battery. Refer to the instructions
supplied with charging equipment
Battery electrolyte will bubble inside the battery
case while being charged properly. If the electrolyte
boils violently, or is discharged from the vent holes
while charging, immediately reduce charging rate or
turn off charger. Evaluate battery condition. Battery
damage may occur if charging is excessive. Some battery chargers are equipped with polarity
sensing devices to protect the charger or battery from
being damaged if improperly connected. If the bat-
tery state of charge is too low for the polarity sensor
to detect, the sensor must be bypassed for charger to
operate. Refer to operating instructions provided
with battery charger being used.
CAUTION: Charge battery until test indicator ap-
pears green. Do not overcharge.
It may be necessary to jiggle the battery or vehicle
to bring the green dot (in the test indicator) into
view. After the battery has been charged to 12.4 volts or
greater, perform a load test to decide cranking capac-
Fig. 13 Load 50 Percent Cold Crank Rating
Fig. 14 Load Test Temperature
Fig. 15 Disconnect Negative Battery Cable
Ä BATTERY/STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS 8A - 7

IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)
GENERAL INFORMATION
A normal electrical system will draw from 5 to 30
milliamperes from the battery. This is with the ignition
in the OFF position, and all non-ignition controlled cir-
cuits in proper working order. The amount of IOD will
depend on body model and electrical components. A ve-
hicle that has not been operated for an extended period
of approximately 20 days may discharge the battery to
an inadequate level. In this case, the Main Fusible Link
Connector should be disconnected. The Main Fusible
Link connector is located rearward of the battery on the
engine wiring harness (Fig. 19).
If the IOD is over 30 milliamperes, the defect must
be found and corrected before condemning the bat-
tery. Usually, the battery can be charged and re-
turned to service (Fig. 16).
IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD) TESTS
VEHICLES WITHOUT ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION/LOAD LEVELINGSUSPENSION OR ALARM SYSTEMS
Testing for HIGHER AMPERAGE IOD must be
performed first to prevent damage to most milliamp
meters. A standard 12 volt test light and a milliamp meter
that is equipped with two leads will be used for the
following tests. The milliamp meter should be able to
handle up to two amps.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are OFF.
Turn off all lights, close trunk lid, close glove box door,
turn off sun visor vanity lights, close all doors and re- move ignition key. Allow the Illuminated Entry System
if equipped to time out in approximately 30 seconds.
(2) Verify the engine compartment lamp bulb is
working by opening/closing hood. Remove the lamp. (3) Disconnect negative battery cable (Fig. 15).
(4) Connect a typical 12 volt test light between the
negative cable clamp and the negative battery post (Fig.
19). The test light may be brightly lit for up to three
minutes or may not be lit at all. This depending on the
body model or electronic components on the vehicle. (a) The term brightly used throughout the follow-
ing tests. This implies the brightness of the test light
will be the same as if it were connected across the
battery posts. This would be with a fully charged bat-
tery.
(b) The test light or the milliamp meter MUST
be positively connected to the battery post and the
battery cable during all IOD testing. (c) Do not allow the test light or the milliamp
meter to become disconnected during any of the
IOD tests. If this happens, the electronic timer
functions will be started and all IOD tests must be
repeated from the beginning. Clamp the test light
at both ends to prevent accidental disconnection.
(d) After three minutes time has elapsed, the test
light should turn OFF or be dimly lit depending on
the electronic components on the vehicle. If the test
light remains BRIGHTLY lit, do not disconnect test
light. Disconnect each fuse or circuit breaker until
test light is either OFF or DIMLY lit. Refer to the
Front Wheel Drive Car Wiring Diagrams Service
Manual. This will eliminate higher amperage IOD. It
is now safe to install the milliamp meter without
damage to the meter to check for low amperage IOD.
(e) Possible sources of high IOD are usually ve-
hicle lamps trunk lamp, glove compartment, lug-
gage compartment, etc.. (f) If test light is still brightly lit after discon-
necting each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect
the wiring harness from the generator. Refer to
Generator Testing. Do not disconnect test light.
CAUTION: This last test has higher amperage IOD and
must be performed before going on with low amper-
age IOD tests. The higher amperage IOD must be elim-
inated before hooking up milliamp meter to check for
low amperage IOD. If higher amperage IOD has not
been eliminated, milliamp meter may be damaged.
Most milliamp meters will not handle over one or two
amps. Do not hook up meter if test light is glowing
brightly. Refer to maximum amperage specifications
and instructions supplied with milliamp meter.
After higher amperage IOD has been corrected, low
amperage IOD may be checked. The MAXIMUM IOD=
30 MILLIAMPERES.
Fig. 19 IOD Test
Ä BATTERY/STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS 8A - 9

(5) With test light still connected, connect milli-
amp meter between battery negative post and nega-
tive battery cable (Fig. 20). Do not open any doors or
turn on any electrical accessories with the test light
disconnected and the milliamp meter connected.
Meter may be damaged.
(6) Disconnect test light. Milliamp meter reading
should be less than 30 milliamperes. If low amperage
IOD is not within specifications, disconnect: (a) The 60 way connector at the Powertrain Con-
trol Module located outboard of the battery. Refer
to Group 8D, Ignition for more information. (b) The 25 way connectors on the Body Control-
ler if equipped. (c) The circuits to the clock and radio.
(d) The wiring harness from the generator. Refer
to Generator Testing.
Check each component until excessive IOD is found.
Each time the test light or milliamp meter is dis-
connected and connected, all electronic timer func-
tions will be activated. Tests must be repeated from
the beginning. Test light or meter MUST remain connected for all
tests.
VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, LOADLEVELING SUSPENSION, OR ALARM SYSTEM
This vehicles will have temporary high IOD of 15
amps or more for up to 65 minutes. This higher IOD can often mask another problem and should be con-
sidered when performing IOD testing. Testing for higher IOD will be the same as in the
previous IOD tests. However, certain additional pro-
cedures should be followed.
² WITH ALARM SYSTEM: After disconnecting bat-
tery and hooking up test light, cycle the key lock on
the driver's door to disarm the alarm. The parking
lamps should stop flashing. Also locate the Power Distribution Center. This
Center is located in front of the left front strut tower
(Fig. 21). Remove the cover from the Center and re-
move the 50 amp fuse.
² WITH ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC TRANSMIS-
SION: If equipped with this option, and high or low
IOD is suspected, allow an additional 25 minutes
minimum of electronic shut off time. To defeat the timer, disconnect the 60-way connec-
tor on the Transmission Controller. This controller is
located on the right inner fender.
² WITH AUTOMATIC LOAD LEVELING SYSTEM:
If equipped with this option, and high or low IOD is
suspected, allow an additional 65 minutes minimum
of electronic shut off time. To defeat the timer, open the trunk lid, locate the
Automatic Load Leveling computer, located inside
right rear wheel house, and disconnect the 11-way
connector. Close the trunk lid. If equipped with an electrical trunk closing feature,
temporarily install a heavy gauge jumper wire be-
tween the disconnected negative cable and the nega-
tive battery post. When this jumper is installed the
trunk lid should automatically close. Do not discon-
nect the test light as all electronic timing features
will be activated and all IOD tests must be repeated
from the beginning. Remove the temporarily installed jumper wire.
Fig. 20 Low Amperage IOD Test
Fig. 21 Power Distribution Center
8A - 10 BATTERY/STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS Ä