1991 FORD FESTIVA wheel

ENGINE MECHANICAL
COOLING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
COOLING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
Malfunctioning power unitSee POWER BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Partial system failureCheck fluid and pipes
Worn disc pad or liningReplace pad or lining
Caliper piston stuck or sluggishSee DISC BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Master cylinder piston stuckSee MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Brake fade due to incorrect pads for liningsReplace pads or linings
Linings or pads glazedReplace pads or linings
Worn drumsReface or replace drums
Excessive Pedal Travel
Partial brake system failureCheck fluid and pipes
Insufficient fluid in master cylinderSee MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Air trapped in systemSee BRAKE BLEEDING or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Rear brakes not adjustedSee Adjustments in DRUM
BRAKES or BRAKE
SYSTEM
Bent shoe or liningSee DRUM BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Plugged master cylinder capSee MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Improper brake fluidReplace brake fluid
Pedal Travel Decreasing
Compensating port pluggedSee MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Swollen cup in master cylinderSee MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Master cylinder piston not returningSee MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Weak shoe retracting springsSee DRUM BRAKES BRAKE
SYSTEM
Wheel cylinder piston stickingSee DRUM BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Dragging Brakes
Master cylinder pistons not returningSee MASTER CYLINDERS
BRAKE SYSTEM
Restricted brake lines or hosesCheck line routing
Incorrect parking brake adjustmentSee DRUM BRAKES BRAKE
SYSTEM
Parking Brake cables frozenSee DRUM BRAKES BRAKE
SYSTEM
Incorrect installation of inboard disc padRemove and replace correctly
Power booster output rod too longSee POWER BRAKE UNITS
BRAKE SYSTEM
Brake pedal not returning freelySee DISC, DRUM BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM
Brakes Grab or Uneven Braking Action
Malfunction of combination valveSee CONTROL VALVE or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Malfunction of power brake unitSee POWER BRAKE UNITS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Binding brake pedalSee DISC, DRUM BRAKES
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Pulsation or Roughness
Uneven pad wear caused by caliperSee DISC BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Uneven rotor wearSee DISC BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Drums out-of-roundReface or replace drums
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Page 8 of 36 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL INFORMATION Trouble Shooting - Basic Procedures
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ENGINES
Valve "O" ring seals damagedReplace "O" ring seals, See
ENGINES
Plugged oil drain back holesRemove restrictions
Improper PCV valve operationReplace PCV valve
Engine oil level too highRemove excess oil
Engine oil too thinReplace thicker oil
Valve stem oil deflectors damagedReplace oil deflectors
Incorrect piston ringsReplace piston rings, See
ENGINES
Piston ring gaps not staggeredReinstall piston rings, See
ENGINES
Insufficient piston ring tensionReplace rings, See ENGINES
Piston ring grooves or oil returnslots clogged Replace piston
rings, See ENGINES
Piston rings sticking in groovesReplace piston rings, See
ENGINES
Piston ring grooves excessively wornReplace piston and rings, See
ENGINES
Compression rings installed upside downReplace compression rings
correctly, See ENGINES
Worn or scored cylinder wallsRebore cylinders or replace
block
Mismatched oil ring expander and railReplace oil ring expander and
rail, See ENGINES
Intake gasket dowels too longReplace intake gasket dowels
Excessive main or connecting rod bearing clearanceReplace main or connecting
rod bearings, See ENGINES
No Oil Pressure
Low oil levelAdd oil to proper level
Oil pressure sender or gauge brokenReplace sender or gauge
Oil pump malfunctionRemove and overhaul oil
pump, See ENGINES
Oil pressure relief valve stickingR e mo ve a n d r e in st a l l va l ve
Oil pump passages blockedOverhaul oil pump, See
ENGINES
Oil pickup screen or tube blockedRemove restriction
Loose oil inlet tubeTighten oil inlet tube
Loose camshaft bearingsReplace camshaft bearings,
See ENGINES
Internal leakage at oil passagesReplace block or cylinder
head
Low Oil Pressure
Low engine oil levelAdd oil to proper level
Engine oil too thinRemove and replace with
thicker oil
Excessive oil pump clearanceReduce oil pump clearance,
See ENGINES
Oil pickup tube or screen blockedRemove restrictions
Main, rod or cam bearing clearance excessiveReplace bearing to reduce
clearance, See ENGINES
High Oil Pressure
Improper grade of oilReplace with proper oil
Oil pressure relief valve stuck closedEliminate binding
Oil pressure sender or gauge faultyReplace sender or gauge
Noisy Main Bearings
Inadequate oil supplyCheck oil delivery to main
bearings
Excessive main bearing clearanceReplace main bearings, See
ENGINES
Excessive crankshaft end playReplace crankshaft, See
ENGINES
Loose flywheel or torque converterTighten attaching bolts
Loose or damaged vibration damperTighten or replace vibration
damper
Crankshaft journals out-of-roundRe-grind crankshaft journals
Excessive belt tensionLoosen belt tension
Noisy Connecting Rods
Excessive bearing clearance or missing bearingReplace bearing, See
ENGINES
Crankshaft rod journal out-of-roundRe-grind crankshaft journal
Misaligned connecting rod or capRemove rod or cap and realign
Incorrectly tightened rod boltsRemove and re-tighten rod
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Starter Turns but Engine Does Not Rotate
Starter clutch slippingSee STARTER article
Broken clutch housingSee STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or drySee STARTER article
Engine basic timing incorrectSee Ignition Timing in
TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine flywheelReplace flywheel and check
for starter pinion gear damage
Starter Will Not Crank Engine
Faulty overrunning clutchSee STARTER article
Broken clutch housingSee STARTER article
Broken flywheel teethReplace flywheel and check
for starter pinion gear damage
Armature shaft sheared or reduction gear teeth strippedSee STARTER article
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Faulty solenoidSee On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor groundsCheck all ground connections
for tight and clean
connections
Ignition switch faulty or misadjustedAdjust or replace ignition
switch as necessary
Starter Cranks Engine Slowly
Battery weak or defectiveCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Engine overheatedSee ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM article
Engine oil too heavyCheck that proper viscosity
oil is used
Poor battery-to-starter connectionsCheck that all between
battery and starter are clean
and tight
Current draw too low or too highSee Bench Tests in
STARTER article
Bent armature, loose pole shoes screws or worn bearingsSee STARTER article
Burned solenoid contactsReplace solenoid
Faulty starterReplace starter
S t a r t e r E n ga ge s E n gin e On l y M o me n t a r il y
Engine timing too far advancedSee Ignition Timing in
TUNE-UP article
Overrunning clutch not engaging properlyReplace overrunning clutch.
See STARTER article
Broken starter clutchSee STARTER article
Broken teeth on engine flywheelReplace flywheel and check
starter pinion gear for damage
Weak drive assembly thrust springSee STARTER article
Weak hold-in coilSee Bench Tests in
STARTER article
Starter Drive Will Not Engage
Defective point assemblySee Testing in STARTER
article
Poor point assembly groundSee Testing in STARTER
article
Defective pull-in coilReplace starter solenoid
Starter Relay Does Not Close
Dead batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring and
connections leading to relay
Neutral safety switch faultyReplace neutral safety switch
Starter relay faultyReplace starter relay
Starter Drive Will Not Disengage
Starter motor loose on mountingsTighten starter attach bolts
Worn drive end bushingSee STARTER article
Damaged engine flywheel teethReplace flywheel and starter
pinion gear for damage
Drive yolk return spring broken or missingReplace return spring
Faulty ignition switchReplace ignition switch
Insufficient clearance between winding leads to solenoid terminal and main contact in solenoidReplace starter solenoid
Starter clutch not disengagingReplace starter clutch
Ignition starter switch contacts stickingReplace ignition switch
Starter Relay Operates but Solenoid Does Not
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TUNE-UP TROUBLE SHOOTING - GAS ENGINE VEHICLES
BASIC SPARK PLUG TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS
Faulty solenoid switch, switch connections or relayCheck all wiring between
relay and solenoid or replace
relay or solenoid as necessary
Broken lead or loose soldered connectionsRepair wire or wire
connections as necessary
Solenoid Plunger Vibrates When Switch is Engaged
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Solenoid contacts corrodedClean contacts or replace
solenoid
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring leading to
solenoid
Broken connections inside switch coverRepair connections or replace
solenoid
Open hold-in wireReplace solenoid
Low Current Draw
Worn brushes or weakReplace brushes or brush
springs as necessary
High Pitched Whine During Cranking Before Engine Fires but Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too great between starter pinion and flywheelAlign starter or check that
correct starter and flywheel
are being used
High Pitched Whine After Engine Fires With Key released. Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too small between starter pinion and flywheelFlywheel runout contributes
to the intermittent nature
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Normal Spark Plug Condition
Light Tan or Gray depositsNo Action
Electrode not burned or fouledNo Action
Gap tolerance not changedNo Action
Cold Fouling or Carbon Deposits
Overrich air/fuel mixtureAdjust air/fuel mixture, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section
Faulty chokeReplace choke assembly, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section
Clogged air filterClean and/or replace air filter
Incorrect idle speed or dirty carburetorReset idle speed and/ or clean
carburetor
Faulty ignition wiresReplace ignition wiring
Prolonged operation at idleShut engine off during long
idle
Sticking valves or worn valve guide sealsCheck valve train
Wet Fouling or Oil Deposits
Worn rings and pistonsInstall new rings and pistons
Excessive cylinder wearRebore or replace block
Excessive valve guide clearanceWorn or loose bearing
Gap Bridged
Deposits in combustion chamber becoming fused to electrodeClean combustion chamber of
deposits
Blistered Electrode
Engine overheatingCheck cooling system
Wrong type of fuelReplace with correct fuel
Loose spark plugsRetighten spark plugs
Over-advanced ignition timingReset ignition timing see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Pre-Ignition or Melted Electrodes
Incorrect type of fuelReplace with correct fuel
Incorrect ignition timingReset ignition timing see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Burned valvesReplace valves
Engine OverheatingCheck cooling system
Wrong type of spark plug, too hotReplace with correct spark
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POWERTRAIN
CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsClutch Out Of Adjustment, Shift linkage damaged or out of
adjustment, Gears or synchronizers damaged, Low gear oil level
Transmission Noisy When Moving (RWD Only) Quiet In Neutral
With Clutch EngagedWorn rear outputshaft bearing
Gear RattleWorn bearings, Wrong gear oil, Low gear oil, Worn gears
Steady Ticking At Idle (Increases With RPM)Broken tooth on gear
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsWorn or broken synchronizers
Loud Whine In ReverseNormal condition (1)
Noise When Stepping On ClutchBad release bearing, Worn pilot bearing
Ticking Or Screeching As Clutch Is EngagedFaulty release bearing, Uneven pressure plate fingers
Click Or Snap When Clutch Is EngagedWorn clutch fork, Worn or broken front bearing retainer
Transmission Shifts HardClutch not releasing, Shift mechanism binding, Clutch installed
backwards
Will Not Shift Into One Gear, Shifts Into All OthersBent shift fork, Worn detent balls
Locked Into Gear, Cannot ShiftClutch adjustment, Worn detent balls
Transmission Jumps Out Of GearPilot bearing worn, Bent shift fork, Worn gear teeth or face,
Excessive gear train end play, Worn synchronizers, Missing detent
ball spring, Shift mechanism worn or out of adjustment, Engine or
transmission mount bolts loose or out of adjustment, Transmission
not aligned
Shift Lever RattleWorn shift lever or detents, Worn shift forks, Worn synchronizers
sleeve
Shift Lever Hops Under AccelerationWorn engine or transmission mounts
(1)Most units use spur cut gears in reverse and are noisy
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Chattering or Grabbing
Incorrect clutch adjustmentAdjust clutch
Oil, grease or glaze on facingsDisassemble and clean or replace
Lo o se "U" jo in t fl an geSee DRIVE AXLES article
Worn input shaft splineReplace input shaft
Binding pressure plateReplace pressure plate
Binding release leverSee CLUTCH article
Binding clutch disc hubReplace clutch disc
Unequal pressure plate contactReplace worn/misaligned
components
Loose/bent clutch discReplace clutch disc
Incorrect transmission alignmentRealign transmission
Worn pressure plate, disc or flywheelReplace damaged components
Broken or weak pressure springsReplace pressure plate
Sticking clutch pedalLubricate clutch pedal & linkage
Incorrect clutch disc facingReplace clutch disc
Engine loose in chassisTighten all mounting bolts
Failure to Release
Oil or grease on clutch facingsClean or replace clutch clutch
disc
Incorrect release lever or pedal adjustmentSee CLUTCH article
Worn or broken clutch facingsReplace clutch disc
Bent clutch disc or pressure plateReplace damaged components
Clutch disc hub binding on input shaftClean or replace clutch disc
and/or input shaft
Binding pilot bearingReplace pilot bearing
Sticking release bearing sleeveReplace release bearing and/or
sleeve
Binding clutch cableSee CLUTCH article
Defective clutch masterReplace master cylinder
Defective clutch slaveReplace slave cylinder
Air in hydraulic systemBleed hydraulic system
Rattling
Weak or broken release lever springReplace spring and check
alignment
Damaged pressure plateReplace pressure plate
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DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Unrelated Noises
Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires, and other parts of the vehicle. Ensure
cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of its parts.
Non-Drive Axle Noises
A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most common noises are exhaust, tires,
CV/universal joints and wheel trim rings.
In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may e gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard tires with an
unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive axle problems.
Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining noise. Ensure none of these components are causing the noise before disassembling
the drive axle.
Gear Noise
Broken clutch return springReplace return spring
Worn splines on clutch disc or input shaftReplace clutch disc and/or input
shaft
Worn clutch release bearingReplace release bearing
Dry or worn pilot bearingLubricate or replace pilot bearing
Unequal release lever contactAlign or replace release lever
Incorrect pedal free playAdjust free play
Warped or damaged clutch discReplace damaged components
Slipping
Pressure springs worn orRelease pressure plate
Oily, greasy or worn facingsClean or replace clutch disc
Incorrect clutch alignmentRealign clutch assembly
Warped clutch disc or pressure plateReplace damaged components
Binding release levers or clutch pedalLubricate and/or replace release
components
Squeaking
Worn or damaged releaseReplace release bearing
Dry or worn pilot or release bearingLubricate or replace assembly
Pilot bearing turning in crankshaftReplace pilot bearing and/or
crankshaft
Worn input shaft bearingReplace bearing and seal
Incorrect transmission alignmentRealign transmission
Dry release fork between pivotLubricate release fork and pivot
Heavy and/or Stiff Pedal
Sticking release bearing sleeveReplace release bearing and/or
sleeve
Dry or binding clutch pedal hubLubricate and align components
Floor mat interference with pedalLay mat flat in proper area
Dry or binding ball/fork pivotsLubricate and align components
Faulty clutch cableReplace clutch cable
Noisy Clutch Pedal
Faulty interlock switchReplace interlock switch
Self-adjuster ratchet noiseLubricate or replace self-adjuster
Speed control interlock switchLubricate or replace interlock
switch
Clutch Pedal Sticks Down
Binding clutch cableSee CLUTCH article
Springs weak in pressure plateReplace pressure plate
Binding in clutch linkageLubricate and free linkage
Noisy
Dry release bearingLubricate or replace release
bearing
Dry or worn pilot bearingLubricate or replace bearing
Worn input shaft bearingReplace bearing
Transmission Click
Weak springs in pressureReplace pressure plate plate
Release fork loose on ball studReplace release fork and/or
ball stud
Oil on clutch disc damperReplace clutch disc
Broken spring in slave cylinderReplace slave cylinder
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A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear damage, or improper bearing
preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving conditions, or it can be continuous.
Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear ke sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been checked as possible causes.
Chuckle
This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It occurs while decelerating from 40
MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes to a complete stop. The frequency varies with the speed of the vehicle.
A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused ive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a damaged tooth on the coast
side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small tooth nick or a ridge on the edge of a gear tooth is enough the cause the noise.
This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If either gear is damaged or scored
badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has broken loose, the carrier and housing must be cleaned to remove particles that could cause
damage.
Knock
This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder, and occur on acceleration or deceleration. Knock can be caused by a gear tooth that
is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion gears. Ring gear bolts that are hitting the carrier casting can cause knock. Knock can also be
due to excessive end play in the axle shafts.
Clunk
Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle is applied or released. It is
caused by backlash somewhere in the driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To determine whether driveline clunk is caused by the axle,
check the total axle backlash as follows:
1. Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle companion flange and a part of the
frame or body so that flange cannot move.
2. On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep it from turning. On all models, turn the right wheel slowly until it is felt to be in
Drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire about 12" from center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction until it is
again felt to be in Drive condition.
3. Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total axle backlash. If backlash is one inch or less, drive axle is not the source of
clunk noise.
Bearing Whine
Bearing whine is a high-pitched sound similar to a whistle. It is usually caused by malfunctioning pinion bearings. Pinion bearings operate at
drive shaft speed. Roller wheel bearings may whine in a similar manner if they run completely dry of lubricant. Bearing noise will occur at all
driving speeds. This distinguishes it from gear whine, which usually comes and goes as speed changes.
Bearing Rumble
Bearing rumble sounds like marbles being tumbled. It is usually caused by a malfunctioning wheel bearing. The lower pitch is because the
wheel bearing turns at only about 1/3 of drive shaft speed.
Chatter On Turns
This is a condition where the entire front or rear of vehicle vibrates when vehicle is moving. The vibration is plainly felt as well as heard. Extra
differential thrust washers installed during axle repair can cause a condition of partial lock-up that creates this chatter.
Axle Shaft Noise
Axle shaft noise is similar to gear noise and pinion bearing whine. Axle shaft bearing noise will normally distinguish itself from gear noise by
occurring in all driving modes (Drive, cruise, coast and float), and will persist with transmission in Neutral while vehicle is moving at problem
speed.
If vehicle displays this noise condition, remove suspect parts, replace wheel seals and install a new set of bearings. Re-evaluate vehicle for
noise before removing any internal components.
Vibration
Vibration is a high-frequency trembling, shaking or grinding condition (felt or heard) that may be constant or variable in level and can occur
during the total operating speed range of the vehicle.
The types of vibrations that can be felt in the vehicle can d into 3 main groups:
Vibrations of various unbalanced rotating parts of the vehicle.
Resonance vibrations of the body and frame structures caused by rotating of unbalanced parts.
Tip-in moans of resonance vibrations from stressed engine or exhaust system mounts or driveline flexing modes.
DRIVE AXLE - RWD TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing. For definitions of listed
noises or sounds, see DRIVE AXLE
- NOISE DIAGNOSIS under POWERTRAIN.
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DRIVE AXLE (RWD) TROUBLE SHOOTING
FWD AXLE SHAFTS & CV JOINTS TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC FWD AXLE SHAFTS & CV JOINTS TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
STEERING & SUSPENSION
MANUAL STEERING GEAR TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC MANUAL STEERING GEAR TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Knocking or Clunking
Differential Side Gear ClearanceCheck Clearance
Worn Pinion ShaftReplace Pinion Shaft
Axle Shaft End PlayCheck End Play
Missing Gear TeethCheck Differential/Replace
Gear
Wrong Axle BacklashCheck Backlash
Misaligned DrivelineRealign Driveline
Clinking During Engagement
Side Gear ClearanceCheck Clearance
Ring and Pinion BacklashCheck Backlash
Worn/Loose Pinion ShaftReplace Shaft/Bearing
Bad "U" JointReplace "U" Joint
Sticking Slip YokeLube Slip Yoke
Broken Rear Axle MountReplace Mount
Loose Drive Shaft FlangeCheck Flange
Click/Chatter On Turns
Differential Side Gear ClearanceCheck Clearance
Wrong Turn On Plates (1)Replace Clutch Plates
Wrong Differential Lubricant (1)Change Lubricant
Knock Or Click
Flat Spot on Rear Wheel BearingReplace Wheel Bearing
Low Vibration At All Speeds
Faulty Wheel BearingReplace Wheel Bearing
Faulty "U" JointReplace "U" Joint
Faulty Drive ShaftBalance Drive Shaft
Faulty Companion FlangeReplace Flange
Faulty Slip Yoke FlangeReplace Flange
(1)Limited slip differential only.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSE
Grease LeaksCV boot torn or cracked
Clicking Noise on CorneringDamaged outer CV
Clunk Noise on AccelerationDamaged inner CV
Vibration or Shudder on AccelerationSticking, damaged or worn CV Misalignment or spring height
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Rattle or Chucking Noise in Rack and Pinion
Rack and pinion mounting bracket looseTighten all mounting bolts
Lack of/or incorrect lubricantCorrect as necessary
Steering gear mounting bolts looseTighten all mounting bolts
Excessive Play
Front wheel bearing improperly adjustedSee FRONT SUSPENSION
article
Loose or worn steering linkageSee STEERING LINKAGE
article
Loose or worn steering gear shiftSee MANUAL STEERING
GEAR article
Steering arm loose on gear shaftSee MANUAL STEERING
GEAR article
Steering gear housing bolts looseTighten all mounting bolts
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