
Fig. 4: Determining Caster Angle
TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
Toe-in is the width measured at the rear of the tires subtracted by the width measured at the front of the tires at about spindle height. A
positive figure would indicate toe-in and a negative figure would indicate toe-out. If the distance between the front and rear of the tires is the
same, toe measurement would be zero. To adjust:
1) Measure toe-in with front wheels in straight ahead position and steering wheel centered. To adjust toe-in, loosen clamps and turn adjusting
sleeve or adjustable end on right and left tie rods. See Fig. 2
and Fig. 5 .
2) Turn equally and in opposite directions to maintain steering wheel in centered position. Face of tie rod end must be parallel with machined
surface of steering rod end to prevent binding.
3) When tightening clamps, make certain that clamp bolts are positioned so there will be no interference with other parts throughout the entire
travel of linkage.
Fig. 5: Wheel Toe
-In (Dimension A Less Dimension B)
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
1. Toe-out on turns (turning radius) is a check for bent or damaged parts, and not a service adjustment. With caster, camber, and toe-in
properly adjusted, check toe-out with weight of vehicle on wheels.
2. Use a full floating turntable under each wheel, repeating test with each wheel positioned for right and left turns. Incorrect toe-out
generally indicates a bent steering arm. Replace arm, if necessary, and recheck wheel alignment.
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STEERING AXIS INCLINATION
1. Steering axis inclination is a check for bent or damaged parts, and not a service adjustment. Vehicle must be level and camber should be
properly adjusted. See Fig. 6
.
2. If camber cannot be brought within limits and steering axis inclination is correct, steering knuckle is bent. If camber and steering axis
inclination are both incorrect by approximately the same amount, the upper and lower control arms are bent.
Fig. 6: Checking Steering Axis Inclination
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00060716
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Manual Transmission Trouble Shooting
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
INTRODUCTION
There are many times when the transmission is incorrectly blamed for shifting problems or noises that are actually caused by other reasons.
Shift difficulties are frequently caused by conditions outside of the transmission or transaxle. Typical conditions include: shift linkage, shift
cables, alignment of engine to transmission, worn engine mounts or clutch problems. Drive train noises may come from many sources such as
tires, road surfaces, wheel bearings, differentials, engine or exhaust system. Repairing or overhauling transmission will not cure these
problems.
No manufacturer makes a perfectly quiet transmission. Gear rollover noise is present in most constant mesh transmissions and will tend to
disappear when the clutch is disengaged or transmission is placed in gear. If clutch is properly adjusted, clutch release bearing noise will
disappear when release bearing is moved enough to slide release bearing away from pressure plate.
Trouble shooting can be helped by driving vehicle on a smooth level road to help eliminate tire and body noise. Note whether noise occurs on
acceleration, coasting, deceleration or steady driving conditions. Some problems may only occur when transmission is either hot or cold. Gear
lubricant that is too thick can cause hard shifting on cold mornings before engine is warm and vehicle has been driven.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
ConditionPossible Cause
Noisy In Forward GearsLow Gear Oil Level, Loose Bellhousing Bolts, Worn Bearings Or
Gears
Clunk On Deceleration (FWD Only)Loose Engine Mounts, Worn Inboard CV Joints, Worn Differential
Pinion Shaft, Oversized Side Gear Hub Counterbore in Case
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsClutch Out Of Alignment, Shift Linkage Damaged Or Out Of
Adjustment, Gears Or Synchronizers Damaged, Low Gear Oil
Level
Transmission Noisy When Moving (RWD Only); Quiet In Neutral
With Clutch EngagedWorn Rear Output Shaft Bearing
Gear RattleWorn Bearings, Worn Gear Oil, Low Gear Oil, Worn Gears
Steady Ticking At Idle (Increases With RPM)Broken Tooth On A Gear
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsWorn Or Broken Synchronizers, Faulty Clutch
Loud Whine In ReverseNormal Condition (1)
Noise When Stepping On ClutchFaulty Release Bearing, Worn Pilot Bearing
Ticking Or Screeching As Clutch Is EngagedFaulty Release Bearing, Uneven Pressure Plate Fingers
Click Or Snap When Clutch Is EngagedWorn Clutch Fork, Worn Pivot Ball, Worn Or Broken Front
Bearing Retainer
Transmission Shifts HardClutch Not Releasing, Incorrect Gear Oil, Shift Mechanism
Binding, Clutch Installed Backward
Will Not Shift Into One Gear, Shifts Into All OthersBent Shift Fork, Worn Detent Balls
Locked Into Gear, Cannot ShiftClutch Adjustment, Worn Detent Balls
Transmission Jumps Out Of GearPilot Bearing Worn, Bent Shift Fork, Worn Gear Teeth Or Face,
Excessive Gear Train End Play, Worn Synchronizers, Missing
Detent Ball Spring, Shift Mechanism Worn Or Out Of Adjustment,
Engine Or Transmission Mount Bolts Loose, Transmission Not
Aligned
Shift Lever RattleWorn Detents Or Shift Lever, Worn Shift Fork, Worn
Synchronizer Sleeves
Shift Lever Hops Under AccelerationWorn Engine Or Transmission Mounts
(1)Most units use spur cut gears in Reverse and are naturally noisy.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00010942
Page 1 of 1 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL INFORMATION Manual Transmission Trouble Shooting
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Fig. 3: Engine Service Point Locations (1989
-93 1.3L EFI)
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Fig. 4: Jacking & Hoisting Points
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
ALIGNING CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS
NOTE:For m ore inform ation regarding vehicle lifting refer to the JACKING & HOISTING article in the WHEEL
ALIGNMENT section.
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ST EERING SYST EM - MANUAL
1991 ST EERING Ford Motor Co. - Steering - Manual Rack & Pinion
DESCRIPTION
Rack and pinion type steering is mounted on rubber insulators to the chassis bulkhead. Adjustment is provided for pinion gear preload. Pinion
shaft is coupled to steering shaft. Tie rods connect end of rack to steering knuckles.
Fig. 1: Exploded View of Manual Steering Gear Assembly
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING section.
ADJUSTMENTS
Necessary adjustments are made during reassembly procedure. See OVERHAUL .
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
STEERING GEAR
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove front wheels. Remove vehicle battery. Remove cotter pins and castle nuts from tie rod ends. Using
tie rod puller, separate tie rod ends from steering knuckles. Remove the catalytic converter.
2. Remove plastic splash shield from right side lower inner fender panel. Mark the lower steering column "U" joint for reassembly
reference and disconnect steering column and intermediate shaft. Remove steering gear bracket bolts. Lower steering gear until steering
shaft is clear of column boot.
3. Slide steering gear to the right, through the inner fender tie rod opening until the left tie rod clears the left fender opening. Lower left
side of steering gear until it can be removed from the left side. Ensure rack boots are not pinched or damaged during removal.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Check and adjust toe-in. See WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS & PROCEDURES article in
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the WHEEL ALIGNMENT section.
OVERHAUL
STEERING GEAR
Disassembly
1. With steering gear removed from vehicle, place steering gear in a soft-jawed vise. Mark threaded portion of tie rod for reassembly.
Remove tie rod ends. Remove tie rod boots. Remove lock pins from both ends of rack. See Fig. 1
.
2. Remove tie rod ball socket from end of rack. Remove both tie rods. Remove lock nut from yoke plug. Remove yoke plug, spring and
yoke support. Use a small screwdriver to remove pinion oil seal from pinion shaft. Remove pinion bearing snap ring.
3. Remove pinion and bearing assembly. If necessary use Valve Body Puller (T78P-3504-B) to remove pinion and bearing assembly.
Remove rack from pinion side of housing. If lower pinion bearing needs replacing, use Blind Hole Bearing Puller (D80L-100-L) and
Slide Hammer (T50T-100-A) to remove.
4. Press bushing lock tabs into the 3 slots located at end of rack housing. Use Blind Hole Bearing Puller (D80L-100-L), to remove rack
support bushing from right end of rack housing.
Inspection
1. Check rubber boots, ball bearings and tooth surface of rack for wear or damage. Using a dial indicator and "V" blocks, check rack for
straightness. Maximum allowable runout is 0.012" (0.3 mm). If rack support bushings are worn, use a screwdriver to release the tab lock
on the side opposite the pinion. Use blind hole Bearing Puller (D80L-100R) with slide hammer to remove bushing.
2. Check tie rod ball joints for smooth operation. Replace parts as necessary. Check sliding surface of rack support and gear housing for
cracks or damage. Check rack bushing for excessive wear. Replace entire gear housing assembly if any of these parts are worn or
damaged.
Reassembly
1. Apply lithium grease to ball bearing, roller bearing, inside of gear housing, lip of oil seal, sliding surface and back of rack support,
sliding surface of rack bushing, rack pinion teeth and ball joints. Install rack support bushing into right end of rack housing. Ensure lock
tabs engage with slots in housing.
2. If previously removed, install a new lower pinion bearing using a bushing installer or a piece of wooden dowel stock. Carefully insert
non-toothed side of rack into left end of rack housing, with rack teeth facing pinion bore. Position rack in housing so rack protrudes
2.4" (62 mm) from the left side of housing. Install pinion and upper bearing assembly so that when bearing is seated, notch (for "U" joint
clamp bolt) in pinion splines forms a 35-55 degree angle with the centerline of the housing. See Fig. 2
.
Fig. 2: Removing & Installing Rack Components
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
3. Install snap ring and spacer, with beveled side of snap ring facing upward (toward oil seal). Install oil seal spacer with tab side down,
locating tab in snap ring gap. Protect pinion shaft splines with tape. Coat tape with a thin coat of grease and install new seal. Using a soft
hammer, tap lightly on seal until it is flush with end surface of housing. Remove protective tape.
4. Mount rack in a soft-jawed vise and install new lock tabs and tie rods. Tighten tie rod with a "crows foot" wrench to 44-58 ft. lbs. (59-
78 N.m). Use a center punch to stake lock tabs washer in 2 places. Slide tie rod boot over tie rod and position on rack. Secure with
mechanic's tie wire. Install other boot and other boot clamps.
5. Center rack so that tie rods are equally extended. Grease rack support yoke. Install rack support yoke, spacer and spring in housing.
Apply sealer to adjusting cover (yoke plug) threads and install in housing. Install adjusting bolt and lock nut.
6. Tighten adjusting cover to 80-97 INCH lbs. (9-11 N.m). Slowly cycle rack back and forth 5 times through 90 percent of its full stroke.
Center rack so tie rods are equally extended. Loosen adjusting cover and retighten to 22-30 INCH lbs. (2.5-3.4 N.m). Using a spring pull
scale, measure force needed to turn pinion 180 degrees from center rack position.
7. Adjust pinion to position where most force was needed to turn it. Tighten adjusting cover to 48 INCH lbs. (5.4 N.m), then back off 5-10
degrees. Hold adjusting bolt with a wrench and tighten the lock nut with a "crows foot" to 29-36 ft. lbs. (39-49 N.m). 8) To comp l et e
reassembly, reverse disassembly procedure. Install tie rod ends and jam nuts. Ensure index marks align. See Fig. 1
. CAUT ION: If rack is taken out of wrong side, dam age m ay result to rack bushing.
NOTE:If fit between housing and bearing is too tight, strike outer ring of bearing lightly while checking
m esh of rack and pinion.
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WHEEL ALIGNMENT
After performing appropriate service procedures, refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS & PROCEDURES article in the WHEEL
ALIGNMENT section.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ApplicationFt. Lbs. (N.m)
Pinion Adjusting Screw Lock Nut29-36 (39-49)
Mounting Bracket Bolt23-34 (31-46)
Tie Rod End Castle Nut26-30 (35-40)
Tie Rod-to-Rack Ball Joint43-58 (58-79)
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00054859
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Fig. 7: Power Steering Pump Mounting & Pressure Hose (Festiva)
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Fig. 8: Exploded View of Power Steering Pump (Festiva)
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
2. Remove return line and "O" ring. Remove pulley nut and washer. Remove pulley using Pulley Remover (OTC-1024). Remove keyway,
front bracket bolts and washers. Remove front bracket, rear bracket bolts and washers and rear bracket. Remove rear body bolts and
washers. Remove rear body. Remove shaft retaining ring. Remove shaft and rotor.
3. Remove vanes, "O" ring, and center body. Remove "O" ring and cam ring. Remove seal using Collet (D80L-100-Q) and Slide Hammer
( T5 0 T- 1 0 0 - A) . R e mo ve va l ve fit t in g. R e mo ve 4 "O" r in gs fr o m va l ve fit t in g. R e mo ve c o n t r o l va l ve , sp r in g, p r e ssu r e swit c h fit t ing a n d
spring. Remove "O" ring from pressure switch fitting. Remove spring seat. Remove plunger.
Reassembly (Festiva)
1. Coat pump vanes, rotor and control valve with ATF. Install new "O" ring on pressure switch fitting. Install plunger, spring seat, spring
and pressure switch fitting. Install new "O" rings on valve fitting. Install spring, control valve and valve fitting. Coat lip of new seal with
grease and install seal using suitable installer.
2. Install cam ring, new "O"ring, center body, new "O" ring and rotor. Ensure rounded edge of vanes face toward center of rotor. In st al l
vanes, shaft and retaining ring. Position rear body and install washers and bolts. Position rear bracket and install washers and bolts.
Position front bracket and install washers and bolts.
3. Position key in keyway and install pulley. Install pulley washer and nut. Tighten nut to 22-29 ft. lbs. (29-39 N.m). Install new "O" ring
at return line port. Position high pressure line and install support bracket and cap screw. Install high pressure line attaching washer and
nut. Tighten to 29-36 ft. lbs. (39-49 N.m).
4. Ensure pump rotates freely. If not, disassemble and repair as necessary. Install pump on vehicle. Bleed air from hydraulic system before
starting engine. See HYDRAULIC FLUID BLEEDING
under LUBRICATION.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
After performing appropriate service procedures, refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS & PROCEDURES article in the
WHEEL ALIGNMENT section.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ApplicationFt. Lbs. (N.m)
Pinion Cover Lock Nut29-36 (40-50)
Pinion Shaft Nut29-36 (39-49)
Power Steering Pump Bracket27-38 (37-52)
Power Steering Lock Nut32-45 (43-61)
Tie Rod-To-Rack44-58 (60-80)
Tie Rod-To-Steering Knuckle26-29 (35-40)
Valve Body Cover Lock Nut29-36 (40-50)
Wheel Lug Nut67-88 (90-120)
INCH Lbs.
Pinion Bearing Cover39-47 (4.5-5.5)
ApplicationFt. Lbs. (N.m)
Intermediate Shaft Clamp Bolt13-20 (18-26)
Pinion Adjusting Plug Lock Nut36-43 (49-59)
Pressure Hose Fitting29-36 (39-49)
Power Steering Pump Lock Nut27-38 (37-52)
Power Steering Pump Mounting Bolt27-40 (36-54)
Steer Gear Mount Bolts23-34 (32-47)
Tie Rod-To-Steering Knuckle22-33 (30-45)
Page 8 of 9 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - STEERING SYSTEM - POWER 1991-92 STEERING Ford Motor Co. - Steering - Power Rack & Pi
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