1989 FORD FIESTA Weekly checks

2B
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead camshaft
Engine code:1.4 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. FUF or FUG
CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F6E
1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . F4A
1.6 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. LUH
EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LJC or LJD
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . LHA
Capacity:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 cc
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1596 cc
Bore:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 mm
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 79.96 mm
Stroke:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mm
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 79.52 mm
Compression ratio:
1.4 litre CVH carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1
1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1
1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 9.5:1
1.6 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 9.5:1
EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75:1
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 8.0:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Chapter 2 Part B:
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 18
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 9
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2B•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe up
to support it.
18Before it is released and removed, the
cylinder head must first have cooled down to
room temperature (about 20ºC).
19 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining bolts
progressively in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening (see illustration 12.28).
The cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and new bolts obtained for refitting the
cylinder head.
20 Remove the cylinder head complete with
its manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face.
21 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This must
always be renewed; it is essential that the
correct type is obtained. Save the old gasket, so
that the identification marks (teeth) can be used
when ordering the new one (see illustration).
Preparation for refitting
22The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
24
If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
25 Ensure that new cylinder head bolts are
used when refitting and clean out the bolt
holes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oil-
filled hole can (in extreme cases) cause the
block to fracture, due to the hydraulic
pressure.
Refitting
26 To prevent the possibility of the valves
and pistons coming into contact as the head
is fitted, turn the crankshaft over to position
No 1 piston approximately 20 mm below its
TDC position in the bore.
27 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the
top face of the cylinder block, locating it over
the dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted the
correct way up, as indicated by its “OBEN-
TOP” marking (see illustration) .
28 Lower the cylinder head into position,
ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels,
then insert the new retaining bolts. Hand-
tighten the bolts initially, then tighten them in
the order shown in the four stages to the
specified torque setting (see illustration).
Where possible, use an angular torque setting
gauge attachment tool for accurate tightening
of stages three and four. Alternatively, after
the first two stages, mark the bolt heads with
a dab of quick drying paint, so that the paint
spots all face the same direction. Now tighten
all the bolts in the sequence to the Stage 3
setting, by tightening them through the
specified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all the
bolts through the Stage 4 angle.
29 The camshaft sprocket should be
positioned so that its TDC index mark pointer
is in alignment with the TDC index spot mark
on the front end face of the cylinder head (see
illustration 3.6b).
30 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring its
TDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0)
indicator on the front face of the timing belt
cover, taking the shortest route (not vice-
versa) (see illustration 3.6a). 31
Refit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, and then tension the belt as
described in Section 8.
32 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all
fastenings to their specified torque setting
(where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts
of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the
fuel and exhaust system components, and to
Chapter 5B for details on reconnecting the
ignition system components. Ensure that all
coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical
connections are securely made.
33 On completion, refill the cooling system
and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and
“Weekly Checks” ). When the engine is
restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or
coolant leakages from the various cylinder
head joints.
13 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter
1.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside
the right-hand wheel arch.
4 Where fitted, pull free the oxygen sensor
lead multi-plug, and disconnect it. If the
engine has been recently run, take particular
care against burning when working in the area
of the catalytic converter.
5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold. The
flange gasket must be renewed when
reconnecting. Where applicable, also detach
the downpipe at the rear of the catalytic
converter, and release it from the front
mounting.
6 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10. On all models, undo the nut and
2B•10 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
12.28 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence12.27 Fit the cylinder head gasket with the“OBEN/TOP” marking upwards . . .12.21 Cylinder head location dowels (A)and gasket identification teeth (B)
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts
Engine code:1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . L1G
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . RDB or RQC
Capacity:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1597 cc
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1796 cc
Bore:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 76.0 mm
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 80.6 mm
Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 88.0 mm
Compression ratio: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.3:1
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.0:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Cylinder head
Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets
Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mm
Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mm
Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm
Lubrication
Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Oil pressure: Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 2.5 bar
At 4000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 3.7 to 5.5 bars
Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . Not specified
Chapter 2 Part C:
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “Weekly Checks”Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 16
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 9
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2C•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

25As the cylinder head is such a heavy and
awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is
helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from
two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately
90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one
end - two old cylinder head bolts with their
heads cut off would make a good starting
point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver
slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt
holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the
cylinder block surface (or into those where the
locating dowels are fitted); ensure that
approximately 70 mm of stud protrudes
above the gasket.
26 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the
guide studs (if used) and locating it on the
dowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used)
when the head is in place.
27 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry ( do not
oil their threads); carefully enter each into its
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
28 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, use first a torque wrench,
then an ordinary socket extension bar and an
angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts
in the stages given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).
Note: Once tightened correctly, following this
procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not
require check-tightening, and must notbe re-
torqued.
29 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),
the camshafts, their oil seals and sprockets
(see Sections 11, 10 and 9, as appropriate).
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
pulley notches to the TDC position described
in Section 3.
30 Refit the earth lead to the lifting eye
31 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking
the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and
setting the timing belt tension, as described in
Section 8.
32 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:
a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified.
b) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”).
c) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil or coolant leakage, once the engine has
been restarted and warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.
d) If the power steering hoses where
disconnected, bleed the system as
described in Chapter 10 after
reconnection.
13 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
Note: The full procedure outlined below must
be followed, so that the mating surfaces can
be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-
tight joint on reassembly, and so that the
sump can be aligned correctly; depending on
your skill and experience, and the tools and
facilities available, it may be that this task can
be carried out only with the engine removed
from the vehicle. Note that the sump gasket
must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Although not
strictly necessary as part of the dismantling
procedure, owners are advised to remove and
discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed
with the oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the starter
motor.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1).
5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the oxygen sensor.
6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then either unhook all the system’s
rubber mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle, or
remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter
(see Chapter 4E for details). 7
Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,
also any securing the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate.
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with
the palm of the hand, then lower the sump
and withdraw it with the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate (where fitted); note the
presence of any shims between the sump and
transmission.
9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this
must be renewed as a matter of course
whenever it is disturbed.
10 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-
up/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Sec-
tion 14).Refitting
11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and
degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean
rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the
pipe, tightening its screws to the specified
torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to
the sump mating surface so that the gasket
fits into the sump groove (see illustration).
12 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine/transmission still connected and in the
vehicle, proceed as follows:
a) Check that the mating surfaces of the sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and
2C•12 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
13.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove
12.28c . . . and to Stage 3 using angle gauge12.28b Tightening cylinder head bolts
(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .12.28a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Note: View from rear of vehicle
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transmission flange attachment bolts (see
illustration) .
19 Check that the appropriate underside
attachments are disconnected and out of the
way, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
20 Unbolt and remove the heat shield from
the exhaust manifold.
21 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. It is
possible to fabricate lifting eyes to connect
the hoist to the engine, but make sure that
they are strong enough, and connect them to
the inlet and exhaust manifold at diagonally-
opposite ends of the engine.
22 With the hoist securely connected, take
the weight of the engine. Unscrew and
remove the right-hand engine mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch.
Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining
nut and washer from the suspension strut cup
retaining plate, and the three bolts securing
the mounting unit to the cylinder block.
23 Locate a jack under the transmission, and
raise it to take the weight of the transmission.
24 Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-transmission retaining bolts on the
upper flange.
25 Check around the engine to ensure that all
of the relevant fixings and attachments are
disconnected and out of the way for the
removal.
26 Enlist the aid of an assistant, then move
the engine sideways and away from the
transmission, whilst simultaneously raising
the transmission. When the engine is
separated from the transmission, carefully
guide it up and out of the engine
compartment. Do not allow the weight of the
engine to hang on the transmission input shaft
at any point during the removal (or refitting) of
the engine. When the engine sump is clear
of the vehicle, swing the power unit out of the
way, and lower it onto a trolley (if available).
Unless a mobile hoist is being used, it will be
necessary to move the vehicle rearwards and
out of the way in order to allow the engine to
be lowered for removal. In this instance,
ensure that the weight of the transmission is
well supported as the vehicle is moved.
27 While the engine is removed, check the
mountings; renew them if they are worn or
damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all
coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that are normally
hidden can now be checked properly, and
should be renewed if there is any doubt at all
about their condition. Also, take the
opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components disturbed on removal, and renew
any that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
28
Refitting is in general, a reversal of the
removal procedure, but the following special
points should be noted.
29 Before coupling the engine to the
transmission, apply a thin smear of high-
melting-point grease onto the transmission
input shaft splines. If the clutch has been
removed, ensure that the clutch disc is
centralised, and disconnect the clutch cable
from the release lever on the transmission
casing.
30 Tighten all fixings to their recommended
torque wrench settings.
31 Check that the mating faces are clean,
and fit a new exhaust downpipe-to-manifold
gasket and self-locking nuts when
reconnecting this joint.
32 Ensure that all wiring connections are
correctly and securely made.
33 Remove the plugs from the fuel lines
before reconnecting them correctly and
securely.
34 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator and
choke cables as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4. The refitting details for the air
cleaner components are also given in that
Chapter.
35 Renew any coolant hoses (and/or
retaining clips) that are not in good condition.
36 Refer to Chapter 6 for details on
reconnecting the clutch cable.
37 When the engine is fully refitted, check
that the various hoses are connected, and
then top-up the engine oil and coolant levels
as described in Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”.
38 When engine refitting is completed, refer to
Section 19 for the engine start-up procedures.
4 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting (CVH and
PTE engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 On all fuel injection engines, refer to
Chapter 4B, C or D as applicable and
depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the
coolant and the engine oil. Refit the drain plug
to the sump on completion.
4 Refer to Chapter 11 for details, and remove
the bonnet.
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
inlet components as described in the relevant
Part of Chapter 4.
6 Release the retaining clips and detach the
coolant top hose, the heater hose and the
radiator overflow hose from the thermostat
housing. Disconnect the coolant hose from
the inlet manifold, and the bottom hose from
the water pump and/or the radiator (see
illustrations) . On 1.4 litre CFi fuel injection
models, also disconnect the coolant hose
from the injection unit. On EFi and SEFi fuel
injection models, detach the heater hose
Y-connector. Allow for coolant spillage as the
hoses are detached. On turbocharged
engines, disconnect the coolant return hose
from the turbocharger connecting pipe.
2D•8 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6b Heater coolant hoses and Y-connector on 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection models4.6a Coolant hose connections to the thermostat (arrowed)
3.18 Engine-to-transmission flangeattachment bolts (arrowed)
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3
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Coolant
Mixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
See Chapter 1
System pressure
Pressure test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bars - should hold this pressure for at least 10 seconds
Expansion tank filler cap
Pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 bars approximately - see cap for actual value
Thermostat
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 85ºC to 89ºC
Coolant temperature sensor
Resistance:At 0ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 to 102 kilohms
At 20ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 kilohms
At 100ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.5 kilohms
At 120ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 kilohms
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 6
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 7
Radiator electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1
Water pump (CVH and PTE engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Water pump (HCS engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Water pump (Zetec engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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6Unscrew the nut securing the cooling fan
shroud to the radiator, noting the insulating
washer arrangement, then lift the fan shroud
and motor assembly from the vehicle (see
illustration) .
7 To separate the fan from the motor shaft,
first remove its retaining clip and washer, then
withdraw the fan (see illustration) . A new clip
will be needed upon reassembly. Remove the
three nuts securing the motor to the shroud
and separate the two components.
Turbo models
8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
9 Undo the two retaining screws and move
the HT lead bracket clear of the working area,
disconnecting the HT leads as required.
10 Disconnect the fan motor wiring multi-
plug and the two auxiliary lamp wiring multi-
plugs. Unclip the wiring from any local
retaining clips.
11 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
12 Undo the two lower fan shroud retaining
bolts, release the shroud upper locating
tongue from the radiator and withdraw the
assembly from the front of the car.
13 To separate the fan from the motor shaft,
pull off the fan guard from the shroud, flatten
back the raised lockwasher tab, and unscrew
clockwise (a left-hand thread is employed)
the nut securing the fan to the motor shaft.
Remove the fan then undo the three nuts
securing the motor to the shroud and
separate the two components.
Refitting
All models
14 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. On non-Turbo models, ensure that
the locating tags on the base of the shroud
locate correctly in their slots in the body
crossmember. On Turbo models, if the fan
was removed, use a new lockwasher when
refitting. On all models, ensure that the wiring
connections are cleanly and securely made,
and locate the loom in the retaining clips.
6 Cooling system electrical switches and sensors -
testing, removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Coolant temperature gauge
sender
Testing
1 If the coolant temperature gauge is
inoperative, check the fuses first (see Chap-
ter 12).
2 If the gauge indicates overheating at any
time, consult the “Fault finding” section at the
end of this manual, to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults. 3
If the gauge indicates overheating shortly
after the engine is started from cold,
disconnect the temperature gauge sender’s
wiring multi-plug. The sender is located below
the thermostat housing on HCS engines,
adjacent to the thermostat housing on CVH
and PTE engines, and on the forward-facing
side of the thermostat housing on Zetec
engines. If the gauge reading now drops,
renew the sender. If the reading remains high,
the wire to the gauge may be shorted to earth,
or the gauge is faulty.
4 If the gauge fails to indicate after the engine
has been warmed up (approximately
10 minutes) and the fuses are known to be
sound, switch off the engine. Disconnect the
sender’s wiring multi-plug, and use a jumper
wire to ground the connector to a clean earth
point (bare metal) on the engine. Switch on
the ignition without starting the engine.
If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew the
sender.
5 If the gauge still does not work, the circuit
may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Removal
6 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses,
according to engine type as necessary, to
gain access to the sender unit.
7 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8 On Zetec engines, disconnect the
expansion tank coolant hose and the radiator
top hose from the thermostat housing’s water
outlet.
9 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sender unit.
10 Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.
Refitting
11Clean as thoroughly as possible the
sender unit location, then apply a light coat of
sealant to the sender’s threads. Screw in the
sender, tighten it to the specified torque, and
reconnect the wiring multi-plug.
12 Reconnect the hoses, and refit any
components disconnected for access. Refill
or top-up the cooling system (see “Weekly
Checks” or Chapter 1) and run the
engine. Check for leaks and proper gauge
operation.
Engine coolant temperature
sensor
Testing
13 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1).
14 Locate the coolant temperature sensor,
which will be found below the inlet manifold
on HCS engines, on the side or centre of the
inlet manifold on CVH and PTE engines, or on
top of the thermostat housing on Zetec
engines. Once located, refer to the relevant
Part of Chapter 4 and remove the air cleaner
or air inlet hoses, according to engine type as
necessary, to improve access to the sensor
unit.
15 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sensor.
16 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications of this Chapter. If the sensor’s
temperature is varied - by removing it (see
below) and placing it in a freezer for a while, or
by warming it gently - its resistance should
alter accordingly.
17 If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
18 On completion, reconnect the wiring
multi-plug and refit any components removed
for access, then reconnect the battery.
Removal
19 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1).
20 Locate the sensor as described
previously, and remove any components as
necessary for access.
21 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
22 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sensor.
23 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it.
Refitting
24Clean as thoroughly as possible the
sensor location, then apply a light coat of
sealant to the sensor’s threads. Refit and
tighten the sensor to the specified torque
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
5.7 Nuts securing fan motor to shroud (A),
and shroud to body crossmember locating tags (B). Inset shows fan to motor shaft retaining clip (arrowed)5.6 Radiator cooling fan shroud securing nut (arrowed)
3
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Refitting
23Refit in the reverse order of removal. Top-
up the cooling system as described in
“Weekly Checks”.
8 Water pump (HCS engines) -
removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Slacken the water pump pulley retaining
bolts, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1 (see illustration).
4 Remove the retaining bolts, and remove the
drivebelt pulley from the water pump.
5 Loosen off the coolant hose securing clips,
and disconnect the hoses from the water
pump.
6 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and withdraw
the water pump from the engine (see
illustration) .
7 No provision is made for the repair of the
water pump; if it is noisy or defective in any
way, it must be renewed.
Refitting
8 Clean all traces of gasket from the engine
and the water pump mating faces. Ensure that
the mating faces are clean and dry. Note
that the water pump gasket fitted during
production is integral with the timing cover
gasket, and this will need to be cut away
using a sharp knife, keeping as close to the
timing cover as possible.
9 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Use a new gasket, lightly smeared
with jointing compound, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
10 Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
11 Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1, and reconnect the battery.
9 Water pump (CVH and PTE engines) -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Remove the timing belt and tensioner (see
Chapter 2B). If the belt is fouled with coolant,
it must be renewed as a matter of course.
4 Loosen off the coolant hose retaining clip,
and detach the coolant hose from the water
pump.
5 Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the water pump to the front end face
of the cylinder block, and then withdraw the
pump from the vehicle (see illustration).
Refitting
6Clean the engine water pump mating faces.
Ensure that the mating faces are clean and
dry.
7 No provision is made for the repair of the
water pump; if it is noisy or defective in any
way, it must be renewed.
8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque, and ensure that the coolant
hose connection to the water pump is
securely made. 9
Refit the timing belt and tensioner as
described in Chapter 2B.
10 Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1, and reconnect the battery.
10 Water pump (Zetec engines) - removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Remove the timing belt and tensioner (see
Chapter 2C). If the belt is fouled with coolant,
it must be renewed as a matter of course.
4 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from
the pump union.
5 Unbolt and remove the water pump (see
illustrations) . If the pump is to be renewed,
unbolt the timing belt guide pulleys, and
transfer them to the new pump.
Refitting
6 Clean the mating surfaces carefully; the
gasket must be renewed whenever it is
disturbed.
7 On refitting, use grease to stick the new
gasket in place, refit the pump, and tighten
the pump bolts to the specified torque.
8 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7
9.5 CVH engine timing belt tensioner
retaining bolts (A) and water pump securing bolts (B)8.6 HCS engine water pump removal8.3 HCS engine water pump pulleyretaining bolts (arrowed)
10.5b . . . and remove the Zetec engine water pump10.5a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) . . .
3
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