1988 FIAT TEMPRA wheel torque

• Step 4: Refill the gearbox with the correct grade and
quantity of FL oil. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Section as appropriate, for the replacement of the rear
crankshaft seal. B
—1 Step 5: When the brake calipers have been refitted,
pump the brake pedal until its normal solid feel is restored.
• Step 6: Use a self-grip wrench to reconnect the gear rod
balls and sockets. Use new drive-shaft nuts, tightened to the
correct torque and staked into the shaft grooves with a
punch. See Job 9.
Job 3. Clutch - replacement.
1 - cover plate 2 - driven plate 3 - release bearing
4 - retaining bolt 5 - spring washer
;
Job 3-1
Q Step 1: These first three numbered parts are the parts
you will need to obtain, from your FIAT dealership.
FACT FILE: CLUTCH COMPONENTS
• We strongly recommend that all three
main components: clutch cover, driven
plate and release bearing are replaced
after a high mileage, ensuring longer life
and smoother operation.
• If one is worn, they are all likely to be, so save
yourself another big stripdown in the near future!
LI Step 2: Remove the transmission. See Job 1.
• Step 3: Unscrew the clutch cover bolts (see illustration
Job
3-1,
part 4) progressively until the spring pressure is
released, then remove the bolts. Ease the cover (part 1) off its
dowels and catch the driven plate {part 2) as it falls.
• Step 6: Check the surface of the flywheel that mates
with the clutch, for scoring, or significant micro cracking
caused by excessive head generated by clutch slip. Replace the
flywheel if in doubt.
7ZJ
• Step 7: Check the
release fork pivot, inside
the bellhousing, for wear
Replace the bushes (see
inset) if necessary, lubri-
cating with a small
quantity of molybdenum
disulphide grease.
• Step 8: Replace the bush
(a) by removing the circlip (b)
from the lever shaft (d). Note
the position of the arm (c) on
the splines for refitting and
slide it off. Prise the bush out
using a screwdriver. Lubricate
the new bush with a small
quantity of molybdenum disul-
phide grease and install. Refit
the arm to the fork control
shaft (d) with a new circlip.
Refit the release bearing (e).
• Step 9: Clean any oil (or the protective film) from the
clutch cover and flywheel faces.
• Step 10: Offer the driven plate to the flywheel with the
side having the greatest hub projection facing outwards.
• Step 11: Locate the clutch cover on the flywheel dowels
and screw in the fixing bolts finger tight.
• Step 12: Use an aligning tool to make sure that the
clutch is centralised, otherwise the gearbox will not relocate
on the engine and damage can be caused to the centre plate.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: There is no spigot bush or
bearing in the crankshaft end, but there is an inden-
tation which you can 'feel' with a normal clutch
alignment tool allowing you to centralise the driven
plate between the clutch cover release fingers. B
• Step 5: B INSIDE
INFORMATION: Check
the inside of the
clutch bellhousing for
contamination by oil.
This indicates a leak
from either the
crankshaft rear seal
or the gearbox input
shaft seal (illus-
trated). A faulty seal should be replaced without delay.
Oil can cause judder and slip. Here, the seal (inset) is
being replaced. See PART A: ENGINE, Job 21 for the
position of the rear crankshaft seal. B
• Step 4: B INSIDE
INFORMATION! Check
the inside of the clutch
bell housing for conta-
mination by oil. This
indicates a leak from
either the crankshaft
rear seal or the
gearbox input shaft
seal. Oil can cause
judder and slip.
Replace the gearbox seal by removing the screws holding
in the thrust bearing sleeve (a), prising out the old and
fitting a new seal (b). See PART A: Petrol or Diesel

Job 9. Drive-shaft - removal
and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For removal of the diesel Turbo's
drive-shaft, see also PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A.
G Step 1: Drain the transmission oil.
• Step 8B: Diesel turbo
models have a bolt-on inboard
flange.
• Step 9: Withdraw the shaft
from the transmission (illus-
tration Job
9-8A,
part b).
G Step 2: Ask a helper to apply the footbrake very firmly
while
you
slacken the drive-shaft-to-hub nut, using a long bar
for
good
leverage after
opening out the
staking on the nut, as
far
as
possible. DON'T

do so
with the car off

the
ground because

the
very large force
needed could pull it off

its stands.
Remove the

nut
after the car has
been raised.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer)
constant velocity joint -
G Step 8A: Undo the

inboard
gaiter retaining

clip
(a) and release the
gaiter.
• Step 11: Refill the
transmission with oil.
See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.
G Step 3: Slacken the hub nuts on the side to be worked

on.
Jack up the front of the car and support on axle stands.
Remove the roadwheel.
G Step 6: Remove the

hub
carrier securing

bolts
(arrowed) from the

base
of the front
suspension strut and tap

the
carrier down and out

of the
clamp. Pull the

top
outwards.
G Step 7: Push

or tap
the drive-

shaft
splines
(arrowed) out of

the hub
carrier,

taking
care not to

damage
the
thread.
Q Step 1: Remove the drive-shaft from the car. See Job 9. G Step 4: Unbolt the
brake hose support clip

from
the suspension strut.
G Step 5: Disconnect the
track rod end from the
steering arm using a
suitable splitter tool.
• Step 2: Remove
the gaiter retaining
clip...
Q Step 3: ...and pull
the gaiter clear.
• Step 4: Remove
the circlip and pull the
CV joint from the shaft.
Q Step 5: Thoroughly clean the joint with petrol or other
agent and dry. Check that the balls and their seats are still in a
good, unbroken shiny condition
-
no score marks. Fit a new
joint if in doubt.
• Step 6: Fit the new gaiter onto the shaft, followed by the
CV joint and circlip. Pack the joint with the grease supplied or
with FL Tutela MRM2 grease.
Q Step 7: Pull the gaiter over the joint and secure with the
retaining band or new screw-type clip. The drive-shaft
assembly is now ready for refitting.
• Step 10: Refit in the
reverse order, using a new
drive-shaft nut tightened to the
specified torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures Stake the nut
into the drive shaft
groove, as shown.

Job 2. Steering wheel - removal
and refitting.
1 - coil spring 2 - trailing arm 3 - rubber bump stops 4 - handbrake cable 5 - axle beam
6 - anti-roll bar 7 - rear brake regulator 8 - shock absorber 9 - trailing arm hinge bolt
Job 1-1C
SAFETY FIRST!
• AIR BAGS. Because of the safety hazards, both
mechanical and chemical (the air bag contains an
explosive device)
-
we strongly recommend that a car
with an air bag fitted to its steering wheel should be
taken to a FIAT dealer to have its steering wheel
removed and refitted under controlled conditions.
STEERING WHEELS WITHOUT AIR BAGS ONLY
Q Point 1C: The rear suspension design shown here is
common to both Tipo and Tempra.
1 - beam axle 2 - rubber buffer pads 3 - shock absorber top bolt 4 - coil spring 5 - shock absorber 6 - bottom nut and bolt securing shock absorber to trailing arm 7 - trailing arm 8 - anti-roll bar 9 - nut and bolt securing trailing arm to beam axle 10 - stub axle/hub nut 11 - wheel hub 12 - stub axle 13
-
hub cap
Job 1-1D
Q Point 1D: This exploded drawing of the rear suspension
gives a clear view of how several of the assemblies are fitted.
• Step 3: Slacken the lock nut
(arrowed) on the track rod by just enough
to free the balljoint, but no
more.
• Step 4: Now undo the
balljoint to steering arm nut
until the bottom of the nut is
level with the end of the thread.
Job
3-3

Job 3. Track rod end balljoint -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Slacken the roadwheel nuts
on the side to be worked.
Q Step 2: Jack up and support the car
on axle stands and remove the road
wheel.
• Step 1: Undo the wheel
cover fixing bolts (positions
arrowed) from underneath.
• Step 2: Using a ring
spanner or socket and
supporting the wheel with the
other hand (see illustration
Job
2-1),
undo the centre
fixing nut and remove the
steering wheel.
H INSIDE INFORMATION!
Never use the steering column lock to stop the wheel
turning when removing and refitting the centre nut-this
could cause damage and would be a costly mistake. H
• Step 3: Refit in reverse order, tightening the fixing nut to
its specified torque. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.

Job 4. Steering rack gaiter -
replacement.
• Step 1:

Note
the
location of the
steering rack
gaiters under

the car.
ONLY
carry out this
work when the
exhaust system

is cold.
Remove
Q Step 5: Use a suitable
splitter tool to break the
grip of the taper, remove
the securing nut and
withdraw the balljoint from
the steering arm.
B INSIDE INFORMATION:
If the balljoint taper
proves stubborn, a sharp
blow with a hammer to
the side of the eye (see
illustration Job
3-4,

arrowed) momentarily
distorts the eye and releases the taper. B
G Step 6: Unscrew the balljoint from the trackrod.
Q Step 7: Clean and grease the tie bar threads before
fitting the new balljoint to prevent future seizure,.fit the new
balljoint in reverse order and tighten the
torque. See Chapter 3, Facts and Figures.
1 ' ™
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before using the car further, take it

to
your FIAT dealership or tyre specialist to have the
front wheel alignment set. This4s NOT a job you can do
at home but is DOES need doing as soon as possible to
avoid severe tyre wear and dangerous braking and
steering!
Q Step 8: Refit and tighten the road wheel, and lower the

car to
the ground.
Q Step 3: Wipe away contaminated grease and replace
with new (lithium-based molybdenum disulphide grease).

Secure
the new gaiter in position at both ends with new

bands
or screw-type clips.

the Track
Rod

End
(TRE) balljoint.
See Job 3.
0 Step 2: Undo

the securing
clip

from
each end of the
gaiter
and
pull the
gaiter off the tie rod.
Q Step 4: Complete the reassembly in the reverse order.
• Step 5: Refit the TRE balljoint. See Job 3
Job 5. Steering rack -
replacement.
PART A: NON-POWER STEERING
Q Step A1: Raise the front of the car and support securely
on axle stands. Remove the road wheels.
• Step A5: Undo the
steering rack
mounting bolts
(arrowed).
• Step A2:
Disconnect the
trackrod ends from
the steering arms.
See Job 3.
Q Step A3: From
under the bonnet,
undo the gear
change mechanism
fixing (arrowed) and
remove the gear
selector mounting.
• Step A4: From inside the
car, undo the pinch bolt
securing the universal joint to
the rack pinion.
• Step A6: With
an assistant inside
the car, helping to
separate the steering
column pinch-joint
from the rack pinion,
pull the rack
assembly away from
the bulkhead...
• Step A7: ...and withdraw it from beneath a wheel arch.
replacement rack should be
centred before installation.
• Measure the total travel of a TRE when moved from
lock to lock. Go back half this distance, tighten the
mounting bolts, and your rack is centred.

Q Step 4: Re-assemble in the reverse order using torque
settings shown in Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures
Job 8. Bleeding the power
steering.
The power assisted steering system is self-bleeding. You
should slowly apply full lock alternately to the right and left
with the car stationary and the engine running, while an
assistant tops up the reservoir. This operation should be
carried out each time the connecting pipes are removed or
refitted.
Job 9. Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting.
G Step 1: Take note of the components shown here.
G Step 2: Support the car on axle stands and remove the
front wheels for access.
G Step 3: Undo the nuts at the bottom of the anti-roll links
(see illustration Job
9-1,
part 4).
G Step 4: Undo the four bolts securing the two mounting
brackets (Job
9-1,
part 8) and remove the anti-roll bar.
G Step 5: Before refitting, check the condition of the
rubber mounting blocks and bushes and replace if necessary.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! The washers (Job
9-1,
part 6)
must be fitted with their convex side facing the rubber
bush (part 7). B
lob 10. Rear anti-roll bar (when
fitted).
• Step 3: Undo the three mounting bolts from each side
(see illustration Job
1-1D)
and wriggle the anti-roll bar from
under the car.
• Step 4: Check the anti-roll bar for obvious distortion or
corrosion and the bushes for deterioration. Replace if
necessary.
I—J Step 5: Refit in reverse order.
Job 11. Front shock absorber -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Slacken the bolts of the relevant front wheel,
then raise the front of the car and support on axle stands, so
that the front wheels hang free. See Chapter
1,
Safety First!
Q Step 2: Remove the relevant wheel then detach the brake
hose from the suspension strut bracket.
• Step 3: Remove
the two bolts
('spannered' and
arrowed) which
secure the hub carrier
to the base of the
shock absorber and
separate them.
• Step 4: Working
under-bonnet, undo
the three bolts
('spannered' and
arrowed) securing the
top mounting to the
bodywork turret.
• Step 5: Lower
the suspension strut
to the ground.
• Step 6: Using two coil
spring compressors spread
over as many spring coils as
possible, compress the spring,
tightening each compressor a
little at a time, in turn, until
the spring ends are free of
their seats.
• Because of the irregular shape of the top end of the
spring coils, it can be difficult to use spring
compressors safely.
• We recommend having this work carried out by your
FIAT agent with the correct compressing tool. G Step 1: Support the rear of the car on axle stands.
Job 9-1
1
-
anti-roll bar 2
-
mounting bracket (2 off) 3
-
front crossmember 4
-
anti-roll bar link rod
(2
off) 5
-
lower wishbone 6
-
washer 7
-
rubber bush 8
-
mounting bracket bolt (4 off)
G Step 2: Remove the fuel tank as described in PART
F:
FUEL
AND EXHAUST, Job 10
• Step 7: B INSIDE INFORMATION! Special tool, FIAT
no. 1857509000 is required together with another tool,
no. 1874551000 in order to prevent the centre rod from

turning while undoing the large nut that secures the top
mounting
-
or ask your FIAT dealer to do it for you. B
• Step 8: Refer to Job
1-1B.
Pull off the mounting (3),
spacer (4), rubber buffer (5), stop buffer and sleeve (6) and the
coil spring (2).
FACT FILE: COIL SPRINGS
If a coil spring is cracked, sagged or heavily
rusted, replace the front springs AS A PAIR.
FIAT springs are colour-coded with a stripe
of either yellow or green paint. Use only a
matching pair.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Never undo the centre nut (Steps 7 and 8) without
using a suitable spring compressor.
• The power contained within the spring is enormous
and extremely dangerous.
• If you are not trained or experienced in this part of
the job, leave it to your FIAT dealer.
Q Step 9: Refit all components in reverse order, making
sure the coil spring is properly seated with the large coil at the
bottom and the end of the coil, tight against the stop in the
spring seat. Tighten to the specified tightening torques (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures) only when the car is back on
its wheels.
Job 12. Front wheel bearing
replacement.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The wheel bearing will probably be
destroyed as it is removed from the hub.
The hub and bearing can
be drifted out from the hub
carrier.
• If you have difficulty doing so, you could remove the
hub carrier and take it to your FIAT dealer for bearing
replacement.
• Step 1: H INSIDE INFORMATION:
• The hub nut (see illustration Job
12-9,
part f) requires
a great deal of torque to undo!
• Lever off the dust cap and slacken the centre hub nut
(see illustration Job 1-1B, part 13) while the car is still
on the ground.
• Try to lift the staking from the groove in the drive-
shaft. If it won't all come clear, don't worry! It will unroll
as the nut is undone.
• You will need an extra-long lever (about half-a-metre
long) to undo the hub nut.
• Slacken the wheel bolts while the car is on the
ground. H
Q Step 2: Raise and support the car on axle stands. Remove
the road wheel. Remove the hub/drive-shaft nut.
• Step 3: Undo the brake caliper and the bracket retaining
bolts. Move the caliper clear, still connected to the hose but
not putting weight on it. See PART H: BRAKES, Job 3.
• Step 4: Undo the
two bolts and remove
the brake disc...
• Step 5: ...and
then the disc shield
(arrowed).
• Step 6: Undo the
nut and disconnect
the trackrod balijoint
using a splitter tool.
See Job 3.
Q Step 7: Remove the two bolts securing the hub carrier to
the shock absorber and pull the hub carrier clear. See Job
11.

• Step 8: Undo the pinch bolt fixing the lower wishbone
balijoint pin to the hub carrier and part the carrier from the
wishbone. See Job 7.
• Step 9: Carefully withdraw the hub carrier
-
complete
with hub and bearing (parts b to e, inclusive)
-
from the drive-
shaft CV joint (a) and take to the bench.
Q Step 10: Using a
suitable press or a
large vice, push the
hub (see illustration
Job
12-9,
part e)
from the carrier
(part d)
E3 INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: This is the
point at which the
bearing will
probably be
destroyed, the outer
remaining in the
hub carrier and the
inner on the hub. H
• Step 11: Start
the separation of the
bearing inner track by
use of a hammer and
keen bladed chisel...

Job 13. Rear shock absorbers and
coil springs - replacement.
Q Step 12: ...then complete the
operation by using a standard
puller with a strong packing piece
(arrowed) for the puller shaft to
'push' against.
G Step 13: Remove the circlip
(see illustration Job
12-9,
part b)
and drift or press out the bearing
outer track from the hub carrier.
• Step 14: Check the hub
carrier for serviceability and
replace if it is in any way
damaged.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! The
new bearing is a complete
sealed unit and requires no
extra lubrication. D
• Step 15: Press the bearing
into the carrier using pressure on
the outer track ONLY (a). Fit the
circlip to retain it.
• Step 17:
Reassemble the front
suspension and brakes

in
the reverse order of
removal. See relevant

Jobs
for detailed infor-
mation. Use a NEW
hub nut fitted as
shown.
FACT FILE: STAKING THE HUB NUT
• Step 18: Use a cold

chisel
with an edge
ground to an angle of
about 60 degrees to stake

the
collar of the nut. USE

A
NEW NUT EACH TIME
IT IS REPLACED.
Q Step 19: Make sure the staked-down section of the collar

fits
in the stub axle

slot
in the opposite
direction to the
direction of the

nut
rotation, as
shown.
• Step 1: Refer to the drawings Job 1-1Cand 1-1D.
• Step 2: Leave the weight on the suspension by means of
a jack under the trailing arm (see illustration Job
1-1C,
part
• Step 3: Undo the nuts (see illustration Job
1-1D,
part
6)

and washers retaining the shock absorber (Job
1-1D,
part 5).
• Step 4: Pull the shock absorber off the top and bottom
mounting studs and carefully lower the jack to release the
pressure on, and then withdraw the coil spring. See also
Job 11
O Step 5: Refit in reverse order making sure that the coil
spring is properly seated top and bottom and that the shock
absorber nuts are tightened to the correct torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Job 14. Rear suspension and
wheel bearings - replacement.
Carry out this Job in connection with illustration Job
1-1C
and
1-1D.
• Step 1: IMPORTANT NOTE:
The trailing arms come
complete with bearings and
spacers (arrowed) as an
assembly. If the bearings are
defective, or the arm is cracked
or distorted, or showing signs
of wear or corrosion on the
wheel side, the whole assembly must be changed.
Q Step 2: Support the rear of the car on axle stands so that
the suspension hangs free. Remove the road wheels.
• Step 3: Remove the exhaust system. See PART F: FUEL
AND EXHAUST, Job 14.
• Step 4: Remove the fuel tank. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST, Job 10
• Step 5: Disconnect the brake pipes from the four-way
union and plug the ends to prevent excessive fluid loss.
Q Step 6: Slacken the cable adjustment under the
handbrake lever and disconnect the rear cable ends from the
equaliser. See PART H: BRAKES, Job 18
/ • Step 7: • Using a trolley
jack under the rear end of
the trailing arm to be
removed, compress the spring enough to undo the
mounting nuts and remove the shock absorber.
• Slowly lower the jack and remove the spring. This
allows you to use the weight of the car to help you
compress the spring
-
a difficult task otherwise!
Q Step 16: Press the hub into
the bearing, pushing ONLY on the
inner track with a suitable piece of
strong tube (1).

• Step 8:
Support the
axle beam with
the jack and
undo the
mounting bolts
(arrowed and
indicated by
operator with
socket bar).
Lower the
complete unit
from the car.
IMPORTANT NOTE: In this shot, the top shock absorber
mountings have been disconnected, leaving the shock
absorber fitted to the suspension and the coil springs in
place. We recommend 'our' approach, covered in Step 7!
• Step 9: Undo the bolts securing the anti-roll bar and
remove it. (See Job 9.) Disconnect the brake pipes from the
side to be worked on and remove the brake drum.
Q Step 10: Remove the hub cap (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part 13) by carefully tapping and levering with a screwdriver.
• Step 11: Undo the hub nut (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part
10).

PART H: BRAKES
• Step 12: A special tool
(1857508000) or a VERY
strong Allen key (a) will be
required to reach into the
hub (b), and plenty of
leverage!
Q Step 13: Remove the
hub and inspect the bearing
for roughness or noise or
roughness when turning it by hand.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! The bearing is lubricated for
life and is only supplied as an assembly with the hub. B
• Step 14: Inspect the stub axle pin (see illustration Job
1-

1D, part
12)
for any signs of damage or distortion. Replace if
in doubt.
Q Step 15: Refitting is the reverse of removal but note the
following:
• See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for all tightening
torques as you progress through the assembling.
• Use new hub nuts and fully tighten once the suspension is
mounted to give you stability.
• Refer to PART H: BRAKES when refitting the brake parts
and bleeding the brakes.
PART H: Contents %
Job 1. Understanding Tipo/Tempra brakes.
Job 2. Front brake pads
-
replacement.
Job 3. Front brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 4. Front brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 5. Rear brake shoes
-
replacement.
Job 6. Rear wheel cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 7. Rear brake disc pads
-
replacement.
Job 8. Rear brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 9. Rear brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 10. Master cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 11. Servo check
-
remove and refit.
Job 12. Pressure regulating valve, non-ABS system -
replacement and adjustment.
Job 13. Pressure regulating valves, ABS system
-
replacement
and adjustment.
Job 14. RPM sensors, ABS systems
-
replacement.
Job 15. Flexible hoses
-
replacement.
Job 16. Metal pipes
-
replacement.
Job 17. Brake bleeding.
Job 18. Handbrake cables
-
replacement.
Job 1. Understanding
Tipo/Tempra brakes.
• Point
1
A: This is the standard disc/drum system used on
cars without anti-lock brakes, shown here in left hand drive
form.
1 - fluid reservoir and master cylinder 2 - servo 3
-
front disc brakes
4 - handbrake lever 5 - rear drum brakes 6
-
four way pipe union 7 - load proportioning/ pressure limiting valve
Job 1-1A
1 - front disc brakes 2
-
front flywheel 3 - front wheel RPM sensors 4 - hydraulic control unit 5 - brake light switch 6 - device failure warning light switch
7 - rear flywheel 8 - main control relay with excess voltage protection 9 - electronic control unit 10 - rear disc brakes 11 - rear wheel RPM sensors 12 - load proportioning/pressure limiting valve Job
1-1B