
The electrical system is a 12 volt, negative
earth type. Electricity is generated by an
alternator, belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley.
A lead-acid battery provides a reserve of power
for starting and when the demands of the system
temporarily exceed the alternator output.
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” - vehicle metal - and most electrical
system components are wired so that they
only receive a positive feed, the current
returning via vehicle metal. This means that
the component mounting forms part of the
circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can
therefore cause apparent electrical faults.
Many semiconductor devices are used in
the electrical system, both in the “black
boxes” which control vehicle functions and in
other components. Semiconductors are very
sensitive to excessive (or wrong polarity)
voltage, and to extremes of heat. Observe the
appropriate precautions to avoid damage.
Although some repair procedures are given
in this Chapter, sometimes renewal of a well-
used item will prove more satisfactory. The
reader whose interests extend beyond
component renewal should obtain a copy of
the “Automobile Electrical Manual”, available
from the publishers of this book.
Before starting work on the electrical
system, read the precautions listed in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of the manual.
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter before
starting work. The following tests relate to testing
of the main electrical circuits, and should not be
used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as
anti-lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control unit (ECU) is involved.
General
1A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
2Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a more complete
understanding of the components included in
the particular circuit concerned. The possible
sources of a fault can be narrowed down by
noting whether other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
3Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay. Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use the
wiring diagrams to determine which terminal
connections will need to be checked in order
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
4The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include: a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used for certain tests), a self-powered test
light (sometimes known as a continuity tester),
an ohmmeter (to measure resistance), a
battery and set of test leads, and a jumper
wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse
incorporated, which can be used to bypass
suspect wires or electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
5To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection,
or damaged wiring insulation), an integrity testcan be performed on the wiring, which
involves moving the wiring by hand, to see if
the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It
should be possible to narrow down the source
of the fault to a particular section of wiring.
This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
6Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit or
short-circuit.
7Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
8Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by a
breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow. Note: A short-
circuit that occurs in the wiring between a
circuit’s battery supply and its fuse will not
cause the fuse in that particular circuit to blow.
This part of the circuit is unprotected - bear
this in mind when fault-finding on the vehicle’s
electrical system.
Finding an open-circuit
9To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good earth.
10Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
11Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
12If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that the section of
2Electrical fault-finding - general
information
1General information
Body electrical system 13•3
13
Other relays and modules (continued)
IdentificationFunction
Behind facia (passenger side) (continued):
M4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Heated windscreen (timer)
M5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Air conditioning cooling fan
M6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS pump relay
M7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS main relay
M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS control unit
M9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ride height control
Below instrument panel (driver’s side):
N1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bulb failure warning unit
Below facia (passenger side):
P1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS module
P2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel-injection system module
Behind facia (passenger side):
R1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Speed control system module
R2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Auxiliary warning system module
R3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rear audio console module
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Alternator adjusting strap:
To steering pump bracket (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
To front cover (V6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
procarmanuals.com

the circuit between the relevant connector and
the battery is problem-free.
13Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
14When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
15To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect
the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the
components which draw current from a circuit,
such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc).
16Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
17Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
18If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading),
this means that there is a short-circuit.
19If no voltage is present, but the fuse still
blows with the load(s) connected, this
indicates an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
20The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” - the metal of the engine/transmission
and the car body - and most systems are wired
so that they only receive a positive feed, the
current returning via the metal of the car body.
This means that the component mounting andthe body form part of that circuit. Loose or
corroded mountings can therefore cause a range
of electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a
circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular,
lights may shine dimly (especially when another
circuit sharing the same earth is in operation),
motors (eg wiper motors or the radiator cooling
fan motor) may run slowly, and the operation of
one circuit may have an apparently-unrelated
effect on another. Note that on many vehicles,
earth straps are used between certain
components, such as the engine/transmission
and the body, usually where there is no metal-to-
metal contact between components, due to
flexible rubber mountings, etc.
21To check whether a component is properly
earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect
one lead of an ohmmeter to a known good
earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire
or earth connection being tested. The
resistance reading should be zero; if not,
check the connection as follows.
22If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean
back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the
wire terminal, or the component’s earth
connection mating surface. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted, use
serrated washers between the terminal and
the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and secure
connection. When the connection is remade,
prevent the onset of corrosion in the future byapplying a coat of petroleum jelly or silicone-
based grease, or by spraying on (at regular
intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer, or a
water-dispersant lubricant.
Headlight
1Open and prop the bonnet. Remove the
cover from the rear of the headlight unit by
twisting it anti-clockwise.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the
headlight bulb. Release the spring clip by
squeezing its legs together and move it clear
of the bulb (see illustration).
3Remove the headlight bulb (see
illustration). Caution: If the lights have just
been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot.
4When handling the new bulb, use a tissue or
clean cloth to avoid touching the glass with
the fingers. If the glass is accidentally touched,
wipe it clean using methylated spirit. Moisture
and grease from the skin can cause
blackening and rapid failure of the new bulb.
5Fit the new bulb, making sure that the legs
and cut-outs in the bulb base and the reflector
match up. Secure with the spring clip.
6Reconnect the wiring plug. Check the
headlight for correct operation, then refit and
secure the rear cover.
Front parking light (sidelight)
7Gain access as for the headlight bulb, then
pull the parking light bulbholder from the
headlight reflector.
8Extract the wedge base bulb from the
holder (see illustration). Fit the new bulb, refit
the bulbholder and check for correct
operation.
Auxiliary driving light (when fitted)
9From above the auxiliary light unit, release
the cover spring clip and remove the cover
(see illustration).
10Release the spring clip from the bulb.
Withdraw the bulb and unplug its wiring
connector (see illustration). Caution: If the
lights have just been in use, the bulb may be
extremely hot.
11Do not touch the glass of the new bulb
with the fingers.
3Exterior lights - bulb renewal
13•4Body electrical system
3.2 Squeeze the spring clip legs (arrowed)
to remove the headlight bulb3.3 Removing a headlight bulb
3.8 Removing the front parking light bulb
from the holder3.9 Auxiliary driving light cover3.10 Removing the auxiliary driving light
bulb
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12Connect the new bulb, fit it and secure it
with the spring clip.
13Check the light for correct operation, then
refit and secure the cover.
Front foglight (when fitted)
14Remove the lens and reflector together by
undoing the two retaining screws. Do not
disturb the alignment screw (see illustration).
15Disconnect the wiring from the bulb.
Release the spring clip and extract the bulb.
Caution: If the lights have just been in use, the
bulb may be extremely hot.
16Do not touch the glass of the new bulb
with the fingers.
17Fit the new bulb and secure it with the
spring clip. Reconnect the wiring.18Refit the lens and reflector and secure it
with the two screws. Check for correct
operation.
Front direction indicator
19From under the bonnet, unhook the spring
which secures the direction indicator light unit
(see illustration).
20Withdraw the light unit and free the
bulbholder from it by twisting it anti-clockwise
(see illustration).
21Remove the bulb from the holder by
pushing and twisting anti-clockwise. Fit the
new bulb to the holder, refit the bulb and
holder to the light unit and refit and secure the
light unit.
22Check the direction indicators for correct
operation.
Direction indicator side repeaters
23Reach up behind the wing and release the
light unit by squeezing the two release tags
together.
24Pull the light unit out of the wing. Twist the
bulbholder anti-clockwise to release it. Pull out
the old bulb and press in the new one (see
illustrations).
25Refit the bulbholder, then insert the light
unit into its hole and press it home.
Rear light cluster
26Access to rear light cluster bulbs is gained
from within the luggage area. First remove theaccess cover on the side concerned; on the
right-hand side, also remove the jack.
27Grasp the bulbholder in the apertures
provided, squeeze the retaining lugs together
and withdraw the bulbholder (see
illustration).
28The appropriate bulb(s) can now be
renewed, and the bulbholder refitted (see
illustration).
Number plate light
29Carefully prise the light unit out of the
bumper with a screwdriver.
30Twist the light unit and bulbholder anti-
clockwise to separate them (see illustration).
Pull out the wedge base bulb and press in the
newone.
31Reassemble the light unit and bulbholder,
then push the assembly home.
Body electrical system 13•5
13
3.14 Front foglight bulb renewal
A Rotating screws
B Spring clipC Alignment screw
3.24a Removing a direction indicator side
repeater
3.19 Unhook the spring (arrowed) to
release the front indicator light unit3.20 Removing the bulb and holder from
the direction indicator light unit
3.24b Fitting a new side repeater bulb
3.27 Rear light cluster bulbholder retaining
lugs (arrowed)
3.28 Identification of rear light bulbs
A Reversing light
B Direction indicator
C Stop-lightD Tail light
E Rear foglight3.30 Separate the unit to gain access to the
number plate light bulb
procarmanuals.com

1For removal and refitting of the front
foglights, front direction indicators, direction
indicator repeaters and the number plate
lights, refer to the previous Section.
Headlight
2Unhook the direction indicator light unit
retaining spring. Withdraw the direction
indicator unit and allow it to hang.
3Pull out the rubber moulding from between
the base of the headlight and the bumper.
(This moulding may in fact be stuck to the
headlight surround.)
4Release the headlight surround retaininglugs, prising them carefully with a screwdriver.
Work from the outside towards the centre of
the vehicle. Remove the surround by pulling it
forwards and then sideways.
5Remove the radiator grille, secured by two
screws.
6Disconnect the headlight wiring connector.
Remove the two retaining screws, and the nut
on the side mounting (see illustrations). Draw
the headlight unit forwards and twist it to
remove it.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the locating pin on the outside
of the headlight unit engages in the hole in the
apron panel.
8If the new unit has been fitted, or if the
adjusting screws have been disturbed, have
the beam alignment checked without delay.9Note that the headlight lens can be renewed
independently of the rest of the unit, once the
securing clips have been removed (see
illustration).
Auxiliary driving light
10This is integral with the headlight unit.
Rear light cluster
Hatchback
11Remove the rear light cluster bulbholder
as described in the previous Section.
12Remove the six nuts which secure the rear
light unit (see illustration).
13Withdraw the light unit from the vehicle
and disconnect the multi-plug and wiring
harness from it (see illustration).
14Fit a new gasket to the light unit if the old
one was damaged.
15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Saloon
16Remove the relevant trim panel from the
rear corner of the boot, noting that it may be
necessary to remove one or more of the rear
lower trim panel retaining screws (see
illustration).
17Disconnect the wiring connector from the
rear light cluster, then undo the four retaining
nuts and withdraw the light unit from the car
along with the rubber sealing gasket (see
illustration).
18Refitting is a reverse of removal ensuring
that the light unit rubber sealing gasket is in
good condition.
4Exterior light units - removal
and refitting
13•6Body electrical system
4.6a Headlight top mounting screw
4.13 Disconnecting the multi-plug from the
rear light unit
4.9 Removing a headlight lens securing clip4.12 Four rear light unit securing nuts
(arrowed) - there are two more out of sight
4.16 Remove the trim panel for access to
the rear light cluster retaining nuts4.17 Rear light cluster wiring connector (A)
and retaining nuts (B)
4.6b Headlight bottom mounting screw4.6c Headlight side mounting nut
procarmanuals.com

Footwell lights
11Free the light unit by carefully prising with
a screwdriver(see illustration).
12Extract the bulbholder by twisting and
pulling. Renew the bulb, refit the holder and
press the light unit home.
Luggage area light
13Carefully prise free the light unit (see
illustration).
14Pull out the old bulb, press in the new one
and refit the light unit.
Engine bay light
15This light bulb is directly accessible once
the bonnet is opened. It is of the bayonet type.
Instrument panel lights
16Remove the instrument cluster.
17Extract the appropriate bulb and holder by
twisting it 90°anti-clockwise (see
illustration).
18Large bulbs are of the wedge base typeand can be pulled out of their holders. Small
bulbs and holders cannot be separated, but
must be renewed complete.
19Refit the bulbs and holder, then refit the
instrument panel.
Switch illumination lights
20The pilot lights in the minor switches cannot
be renewed independently of the switch.
21The bulbs which illuminate the lighting
master switch and the heater blower switch
can be renewed after pulling off the switch
knob (see illustration).
22The switch symbols in the instrument
panel surround are illuminated by a single
bulb. To gain access to the bulb, remove the
instrument panel surround, which is secured
by four screws. The bulb is of the wedge base
type (see illustration).
Glovebox light
23Open the glovebox. Remove the
combined switch/light unit, which is secured
by two screws (see illustration).
24Prise out the switch, renew the bayonet
fitting bulb and refit the switch
25Refit and secure the light unit with the two
screws.
Ashtray light
26Remove the storage box or audio unit
from just above the ashtray (see illustration).
27Free the bulbholder from above the ashtray,
either by pulling it outwards (low series trim) or
by carefully prising it away from its housing
using a screwdriver (high series trim).28Renew the wedge base bulb. Refit the
bulbholder and the other disturbed
components.
Radio fader light
29Carefully prise off the fader surround.
30Extract the bulbholder by twisting it anti-
clockwise. Disconnect its wiring plug and
remove it.
31The bulb and holder cannot be separated.
Fit the new bulbholder unit, check for correct
operation, then refit the fader surround.
Heater control light
32Remove the instrument panel surround.
33Pull off the heater control knobs, then
prise the display panel off the heater controls
to expose the bulb.
13•8Body electrical system
6.21 Pull off the switch knob to expose the
bulb
6.26 Ashtray light bulb seen through radio
aperture6.22 Removing the switch symbol
illumination light6.23 The glovebox light unit
6.13 Luggage area light unit6.17 Instrument panel lights
6.11 Footwell light bulb renewal - front (A)
and rear (B)
procarmanuals.com

34Renew the bulb, check for correct
operation, then refit the disturbed components
(see illustration).
Automatic transmission selector
light
35Carefully pull off the selector housing.
Remove the selector knob by unscrewing it.
36Release the selector indicator plate, which
is secured by two clips. Remove the indicator
plate by sliding it up the selector stalk.
37Remove the selector guide plate, which is
secured by four screws. Extract the bulbholder
and renew the bulb (see illustration).
38An alternative means of access is by
removing the centre console.
39Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear console light
40Remove the rear heater control lever knob
by pulling it off.
41Remove the rear console panel, which is
secured by two screws at the top.
42Free the bulbholder by twisting it anti-
clockwise. Renew the wedge base bulb.
43Refit the bulbholder and the other
disturbed components.
Hazard warning switch light
44Remove the steering column upper
shroud, which is secured by three screws.
45Make sure that the switch is in the “off”
position, then pull off the switch cap.
46Pull out the wedge base bulb and press in
the new one.47Refit the switch cap and the steering
column upper shroud.
Clock light
48If the clock is in the instrument panel,
renewal is as described for the other
instrument panel lights.
49To renew the light bulb in the overhead
type of clock, first remove the overhead
console.
50Remove the back of the clock, which is
secured by two screws, for access to the bulb.
51Renew the bayonet fitting bulb (see
illustration). Refit the back of the clock, then
refit the overhead console.
Models before April 1992
1Although not essential, it is wise to
disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws. Disengage
the switch symbol illumination light from the
surround.
3Remove the four screws which secure the
instrument cluster.
4Partly withdraw the instrument cluster,
disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
cluster (see illustrations). The multi-plugs are
colour coded and not interchangeable; when a
graphic display module is fitted, its multi-plughas a red locking mechanism which must be
retracted before the plug can be
disconnected.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Models from April 1992
6For these models, note the following points:
a)The instrument cluster surround is
retained by two screws and two clips. It
will also be necessary to disconnect the
panel dimmer switch (see illustration).
b)When removing the cluster note that it will
also be necessary to release the retaining
clip and disconnect the speedometer
cable (see illustration).On refitting push
the cable back into position and check
that it is securely held in position with the
retaining clip.
7Instrument cluster - removal
and refitting
Body electrical system 13•9
13
6.37 Automatic transmission selector with
bulbholder displaced6.51 Renewing the clock bulb
7.4b Removing the instrument cluster7.6a Disconnect the dimmer switch wiring
connector as the surround is removed7.6b Release the retaining clip and
disconnect the cable from the cluster
7.4a Instrument cluster viewed through
windscreen to show multi-plugs
6.34 Renewing the heater control light bulb
procarmanuals.com

1With the instrument cluster removed, a
particular gauge or other component can be
renewed by following the appropriate parts of
this Section.
2Remove all the light bulbs and holders from
the rear of the panel by twisting them anti-
clockwise.
3To remove the printed circuit, unclip and
remove the two multi-plug terminal retainers.
Remove all the nuts and washers from the
printed circuit terminals, then unclip and
remove the printed circuit. Be careful with it, it
is fragile (see illustration).
4To remove the instrument cluster glass,
release the two securing clips from thebottom
edge of the glass. Swing the glass upwards
and remove it.
5With the glass removed, the speedometer,
fuel and temperature gauges can be removed
individually after undoing their securing nuts or
screws. To remove the clock or tachometer,
the printed circuit must be removed as well.
6When fitted, the low fuel/high temperature
warning light bulbs can be renewed after
removing the combined gauge unit. Use
tweezers to extract the old bulb and to fit the
new one.
7The graphic display module, when fitted,
can be removed after undoing its two securing
screws.
8Reassemble the instrument cluster by
reversing the dismantling operations.
1To remove the clock from the instrument
panel, refer to the previous Section.
2To remove the clock from the overhead
console, first remove the console.
3Remove the clock rear cover, which is
secured by two screws.
4Remove the two screws which secure the
clock itself, then withdraw the clock.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Front lighter
2On models with high level trim, pull the
centre console surround away from the radio
to gain access to the lighter. On models with
low level trim, remove the radio/cassette unit.
3Disconnect the wires from the cigarette
lighter and push it out of the illuminated ring.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear lighter
5Pull off the rear heater control lever knob.
6Remove the rear console panel, which is
secured by two screws.
7Disconnect the wires from the lighter and
push it out of the illuminated ring.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Two horns are fitted as standard. The high
tone horn is located to the right of the radiator
and is accessible from under the bonnet. The
low tone horn is located below and to the left
of the radiator and is accessible from below.
2Remove the horn securing nut or bolt and
recover the shakeproof washer.
3Disconnect the wiring and remove the horn.4When refitting the horn, make sure it is
correctly positioned before tightening the
securing nut or bolt.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Switch plate
2Pull off the steering wheel centre cover.
3Undo the three screws which retain the
switch plate. Disconnect and remove the
switch plate (see illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Slip rings
5Remove the steering wheel.
6Release the tangs which secure the slip
rings to the underside of the steering wheel.
Disconnect the slip rings from the switch plate
and remove them.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Brushes
8Remove the steering wheel.
9Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds.
10Disconnect the wiring from the horn
brushes. Carefully lever out the brush unit,
using a thin screwdriver inserted into the
bottom edge of the unit(see illustration).
11Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the seat.
2Remove the seat cushion or backrest trim.
3Note which way round the heating element
is facing (see illustration),then remove the
wire clips and adhesive tape which secure it to
the seat. Retrieve the tie-rod and fit it to the
new element.
4Fit the new element with the thermostat
facing the cushion foam. Secure the element
with wire clips and tape, ensuring that it is not
too tight - it must be able to flex under load.
5Refit the cushion or backrest trim.
6Refit the seat and check the heating
elements for correct operation.
13Seat heating elements -
removal and refitting
12Horn switch plate, slip rings
and brushes - removal and
refitting
11Horn - removal and refitting
10Cigarette lighter - removal
and refitting
9Clock - removal and refitting
8Instrument cluster - dismantling
and reassembly
13•10Body electrical system
8.3 Instrument cluster printed circuit
Unclip retainers at their top ends (arrowed)
13.3 Seat heating element
Thermostat (arrowed) must face the foam
12.3 Three screws (arrowed) secure the
horn switch plate12.10 Removing the horn brush unit
procarmanuals.com

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds.
3Remove the switch by depressing its two
retaining tabs. Unplug the wiring connector
and remove the switch (see illustration).
4When refitting, make sure that the slot in the
centre of the switch is aligned with the driver
on the lock.
5Reconnect the switch and push it home
until the retaining tabs click into place.
6Reconnect the battery and check the switch
for correct operation, then refit the steering
column shrouds.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead, or
satisfy yourself that there is no risk of a short-
circuit, before removing any switch.
2Except where noted, a switch is refitted by
reversing the removal operations.
Lighting master switch
Models before April 1992
3Pull the knob off the lighting switch.
4Depress the two retaining lugs and pull the
switch out of the instrument panel surround. 5Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch
and remove it.
Models from April 1992
6Note that there is a retaining lug on the
bottom of the switch knob which must be
depressed before the knob can be removed.
Heater blower switch
Models before April 1992
7This is removed in the same way as the
lighting master switch.
Models from April 1992
8The switch can be removed and refitted as
described for the heater controls in Chapter 3.
Instrument illumination dimmer
switch
9Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is retained by four screws.
10Pull the dimmer switch from its location
and disconnect the multi-plug (see
illustration).
11Although the switch looks as if it can be
dismantled, this should not be attempted
unless the switch is surplus to requirements,
and a new unit is readily available.
Models up to April 1992
12On these models, remove the four
instrument cluster surround retaining screws
and remove the surround from the facia.
Carefully prise the switch out of the aperture
and disconnect the wiring connector.
Models from April 1992
13On these models, remove the two
instrument cluster surround retaining screws
and release the two retaining clips. Remove
the surround from the facia and disconnect
the wiring connector from the dimmer switch.
Depress the dimmer switch retaining tangs
and slide the switch out of the surround.
Mirror control switch
14Carefully prise the switch out of the armrest
using a thin-bladed screwdriver. Protect the
armrest with a piece of cloth or thick card.
15Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch (see illustration).
Direction indicator/headlight
flasher switch and unit
Models before April 1992
16Remove the steering wheel centre cover.
17Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, which are secured by a total of
six screws.
18Unlock the steering and turn the steering
wheel to gain access to the two screws which
retain the switch (see illustration). Remove
the screws.
19Withdraw the switch from the steering
column and disconnect its multi-plug (see
illustration). It may be necessary to release
some cable-ties in order to free the multi-plug.
The flasher unit is plugged into the side of the
switch furthest from the wheel (see
illustration).15Switches - removal and
refitting
14Ignition/starter switch -
removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•11
13
14.3 Ignition/starter switch removal
Depress the retaining tabs to lift off the switch15.10 Removing the instrument illumination
dimmer switch15.15 Removing a mirror control switch
15.18 Two screws (arrowed) secure the
switch. Steering wheel removed for clarity15.19a Disconnecting a steering column
switch multi-plug15.19b Unplugging the direction indicator
flasher unit
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