1985 FORD GRANADA ignition

Speed control module
Models before April 1992
9Refer to Section 27. The speed control
module shares the same mountings as the
AWS module; the AWS module is larger.
Models from April 1992
10The speed control module fitted to these
models is situated behind the glovebox on the
left-hand side of the facia. To gain access to
the module remove the left-hand facia
undercover panel. The speed control module
is vertically mounted just to the right of the
engine management module. Push the module
upwards to release the retaining clips then
lower it out from under the facia and
disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustration).
11Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the module is
securely retained by the retaining clips.
Vacuum pump
12The vacuum pump is located behind the
left-hand headlight on carburettor models, and
behind the right-hand headlight on fue-
injection models. Start by removing the
appropriate headlight unit.
13Disconnect the multi-plug and the vacuum
hose from the pump. The multi-plug is
released by squeezing and pulling it at the
same time.
14Prise out the three mountings and remove
the pump.
15When refitting, pull the pump mountings
into position with pliers. 16Reconnect the vacuum hose and the
multi-plug, then refit the headlight unit.
Vacuum servo
17Disconnect the servo-to-throttle linkage
cable at one end.
18Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
servo.
19Undo the servo retaining nut and remove
the servo from its bracket.
20Refit by reversing the removal operations.
On all but 2.0 litre carburettor models, adjust
the cable so that it is slightly slack when the
throttle linkage is in the idle position (pedal
released).
21On 2.0 litre carburettor models, the
stepper motor plunger must be withdrawn
before the cable is adjusted. Proceed as
follows.
22Observe the stepper motor plunger. Have
an assistant switch on the ignition for a few
seconds, then switch it off again. When the
ignition is switched off, the stepper motor
plunger will retract fully (“vent manifold”
position). Disconnect the battery negative lead
while the stepper motor plunger is retracted.
23Adjust the servo cable so that it is slightly
slack, then reconnect the battery negative
lead.
Printed circuit board
24The printed circuit board is located in the
steering wheel. It can be removed after
detaching the horn contact plate and
disconnecting the switch spade terminals as
described at the beginning of this Section.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Pull off the rubber sealing strip from the top
of the plenum chamber (see illustration).
3Pull the two wiring harness clips from the
front of the plenum chamber (see illustration).
4Remove the two screws and two clips
which secure the plenum chamber cover (see
illustration). Lift out the cover.
5Disconnect the multi-plug from the blower
motor resistor. Also disconnect the motor
earth cable (see illustration).
6Remove the two nuts which secure the
motor assembly. Lift out the motor, casing and
resistor together.
7The casing halves and the resistor can be
separated from the motor after prising open
the clamp which holds the casing halves
together.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Two DIN standard extraction tools will be
needed to remove the radio/cassette unit.
These tools are available from vehicle audio
equipment specialists.
Radio (only)
2Pull off the control knobs, remove the
spindle nuts and washers and remove the
radio face plate.
3Push the two securing lugs inwards, at the
same time pulling the radio from its location.
The services of an assistant may be required.
4Withdraw the radio and disconnect the
aerial cable and the other wiring plugs from it.
5If a new radio is to be fitted, transfer the
support brackets and locating plate from the
old unit to the new one.
6Refit by reconnecting the wiring to the radio,
then sliding it into its aperture. Press it in until
the securing lugs click into position.
7Refit the face plate, spindle nuts and washers
and control knobs. The top of the face plate is
marked on the side which faces the radio.
30Radio or radio/cassette
player (original equipment) -
removal and refitting
29Heater blower motor -
removal and refitting
13•20Body electrical system
28.10 Removing the speed control module
29.4 One of the plenum chamber cover
clips29.5 Blower motor showing wiring
connections
29.2 Pulling off the rubber sealing strip29.3 Pulling out a wiring harness clip
procarmanuals.com

The components of the alarm system are a
control module, tripping switches, activating
switches, an alarm horn and a signal buzzer.
The control module is located behind the
facia. It determines whether the alarm is set or
not, monitors the tripping switches and the
ignition circuit, and limits the duration of the
alarm to 30 seconds. This last item is a legal
requirement. The control module also
operates the signal buzzer to tell the driver
that the alarm is set, and controls the activator
delay.
The tripping switches on the doors and
tailgate are the same as those used for “open
door” warnings in the AWS. The bonnet switch
is peculiar to the alarm system.
The activating switches are fitted to the
front door lock barrels, where they are
activated by a lug on the end of the barrel.
They only make contact momentarily as the
lock is operated.
The alarm horn is mounted next to the
battery. Both the horn and its leads are
claimed to be inaccessible without opening
the bonnet. The signal buzzer is also mounted
under the bonnet.
No service, repair or component renewal
procedures have been published for the alarmsystem components on earlier models. Any
problems arising which cannot be dealt with
by component substitution should therefore
be referred to a Ford dealer.
Ultrasonic sensor
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2Prise out the retaining screw trim cap from
the centre of the sensor then slacken and
remove the retaining screws and lower the
sensor away from the headlining,
disconnecting the wiring plug as it becomes
accessible.
3Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Anti-theft alarm module (models
from April 1992)
4On these models the alarm module is located
behind the righthand lower facia panel.
5To remove the module, remove the right-
hand facia undercover and lower facia panel.
6The anti-theft alarm module is the left-hand
of the two modules situated directly above the
control pedals. Release the module retaining
clips then disconnect the wiring connector and
remove the module from the vehicle (see
illustration).7Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Alarm signal buzzer (models from
April 1992)
8The alarm signal buzzer is situated under
the bonnet where it is mounted on the upper
right-hand side of the engine compartment
bulkhead.
9To remove the buzzer, open the bonnet then
unclip the buzzer from the bulkhead and
disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustration).
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Alarm system horn (models from
April 1992)
11On these models the alarm system horn is
mounted in the front right-hand corner of the
engine compartment (see illustration).
12To remove the horn, undo the two horn
mounting bracket retaining screws then
disconnect the wiring connectors and remove
the horn from the engine compartment.
13Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Body electrical system 13•23
13
36.6 Removing the anti-theft alarm control
module36.9 Removing the alarm system warning
buzzer36.11 Alarm horn location
procarmanuals.com

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according
to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are
inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is
comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical
failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which
do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried
in the vehicle.With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or
REF•5Fault Finding
Engine1
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mStarter motor turns engine slowly
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system2
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems3
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch4
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual gearbox5
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission6
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smellm mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Propeller shaft7
m
mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Final drive and driveshafts8
m
mExcessive final drive noise
m mOil leakage from final drive
m mGrating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
Braking system9
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mPedal pulsates when braking hard
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems10
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively-stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system11
m
mLights inoperative
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Introduction
procarmanuals.com

REF•6
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter motor (Chapter 5).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2 or 5).
m mEngine earth strap broken or disconnected.
Starter motor turns engine slowly
m
mPartially-discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push
start) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery earth to body defective (Chapter 5).
m mEngine earth strap loose.
m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor internal fault (Chapter 5).
Engine rotates, but will not start
m
mFuel pump inertia switch tripped (electric pump) (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg broken timing chain) (Chapter 2).
Engine difficult to start when cold
m
mBattery discharged (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mOther ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
Engine difficult to start when hot
m
mAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m mStarter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2 or 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body or inlet manifold (Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine idles erratically
m
mCarburettor stepper motor plunger dirty (2.0 litre only) (Chapter 5)
m mIncorrectly-adjusted idle speed (Chapter 4).
m mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine misfires at idle speed
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
(Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mDisconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapter 4).
Fault Finding
spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
principles apply. These are as follows:
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is
there fuel in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular
point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault isindicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test
gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a
fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the
underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same
way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get
you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it
wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established
and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a
“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling
around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently-fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realise
that all the evidence was there from the start.
1 Engine
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Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
m mDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine stalls
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
m
mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 10).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
m mLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2).
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2).
Note:Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not
necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far
more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender
before condemning the engine.
Engine runs-on after switching off
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
m mIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Whistling or wheezing noises
m
mLeaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 10).
m mBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
Tapping or rattling noises
m
mWorn valve gear, timing chain, camshaft or hydraulic tappets
(Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
Knocking or thumping noises
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load) (Chapter 2).
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2).
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
REF•7Fault Finding
2Cooling system
Overheating
m
mAuxiliary drivebelt broken or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mElectric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).
m mViscous-coupled fan faulty (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
m mAirlock in cooling system (Chapter 3).
Overcooling
m
mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
m mPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump-to-block seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mBoiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
m mCore plug leaking (Chapter 2).
Internal coolant leakage
m
mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter 2).
Corrosion
m
mInfrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).
procarmanuals.com

REF•8
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
m m
Badly stretched or broken cable (Chapter 6).m
mStripped pawl on pedal (Chapter 6).m
mBroken clutch release bearing or arm (Chapter 6).m
mBroken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m m
Cable free play excessive (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate sticking on gearbox input shaft splines (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).m
mClutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no
increase in vehicle speed)
m m
Clutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
Judder as clutch is engaged
m m
Clutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).m
mWorn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2).m
mClutch driven plate hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn
(Chapter 6).
Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m m
Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).m
mWorn or dry clutch pedal pivot (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).m
mPressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).m
mBroken clutch driven plate cushioning springs (Chapter 6).
Excessive fuel consumption
m
mAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mIgnition timing incorrect or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBrakes binding (Chapter 10).
m mTyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m
mDamaged fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapters 1 and 4).
Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
mLeaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mLeaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mBroken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 4).
Fault Finding
4Clutch
5Manual gearbox
Noisy in neutral with engine running
m m
Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7A).*
m mClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).
Noisy in one particular gear
m m
Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).*
Difficulty engaging gears
m m
Clutch fault (Chapter 6).m
mWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).m
mWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
Jumps out of gear
m m
Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).m
mWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*m
mWorn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*
Vibration
m m
Lack of oil (Chapter 1).m
mWorn bearings (Chapter 7A).*
Lubricant leaks
m m
Leaking oil seal (Chapter 7A).m
mLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7A).*
*Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, so
that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.
6Automatic transmission
Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.
Fluid leakage
m m
Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by air flow.
m mTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using a
degreasing agent or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low speed,
so that air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise and
support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming from. The
following are common areas of leakage:
a)Fluid pan ( transmission “sump”).
b)Dipstick tube (Chapter 1).
c)Transmission-to-fluid cooler fluid pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
3Fuel and exhaust systems
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Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated
with engine running
m m
Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).m
mAlternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).m
mAlternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).m
mInternal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).m
mBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5).
Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m m
Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 13).m
mBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
(Chapter 13).
m mAlternator faulty (Chapter 5).
Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m m
Battery defective internally (Chapter 5).m
mBattery electrolyte level low - where applicable (Chapter 1).m
mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).m
mAuxiliary drivebelt worn - or incorrectly adjusted, where applicable
(Chapter 1).
m mAlternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).m
mAlternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).m
mShort-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 13).
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Instrument readings increase with engine speed
m
mFaulty voltage regulator (Chapter 13).
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
m
mFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 4 and 5).m
mWiring open-circuit (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty gauge (Chapter 13).
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading
m mFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 4 and 5).m
mWiring short-circuit (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty gauge (Chapter 13).
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Horn operates all the time
m
mHorn contacts permanently bridged or horn push stuck down
(Chapter 13).
Horn fails to operate
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 13).
m mFaulty horn (Chapter 13).
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
m
mCable connections loose (Chapter 13).m
mHorn mountings loose (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty horn (Chapter 13).
Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
m mWiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding
(Chapters 1 and 13).
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 13).
m mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty wiper motor (Chapter 13).
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
m mWiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).m
mExcessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 13).m
mWiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 13).
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
m
mWiper blade rubbers worn or perished (Chapter 1).m
mWiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 13).m
mInsufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film (Chapter 1).
Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
One or more washer jets inoperative
m mBlocked washer jet (Chapter 1).m
mDisconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 13).m
mInsufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Chapter 1).
Washer pump fails to operate
m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).m
mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty washer switch (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty washer pump (Chapter 13).
Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
m mFaulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 13).
Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
Window glass will only move in one direction
m mFaulty switch (Chapter 13).
Window glass slow to move
m
mRegulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chapter 12).m
mDoor internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 12).m
mFaulty motor (Chapter 12).
Window glass fails to move
m
mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty motor (Chapter 13).
Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory
in operation
Complete system failure
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).
Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock
m
mFaulty switch (Chapter 13).m
mBroken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 12).m
mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).
One solenoid/motor fails to operate
m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty solenoid/motor (Chapter 12).m
mBroken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 12).
m mFault in door latch (Chapter 12).
REF•11Fault Finding
procarmanuals.com

REF•12Glossary of Technical Terms
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system)A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleanerA metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter elementThe actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
Allen keyA hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clipA long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
AlternatorA component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Ampere (amp)A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealerA substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
AntifreezeA substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compoundA coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
AsbestosA natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
AxleA shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
AxleshaftA single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
BBall bearingAn anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
BearingThe curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearingThe bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nippleA valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Brake bleedingProcedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake discThe component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.Brake drumThe component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake liningsThe friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake padsThe replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoeThe crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systemsFor more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker barA long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
BulkheadThe insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
CCaliperThe non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Canister
Brake bleeding
Bearing
Air filter
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