1985 FORD GRANADA air condition

17Refit by inserting the switch into the
grommet - use a new grommet if necessary -
and screwing on the retaining ring. Reconnect
the multi-plug and top-up the cooling system.
Washer fluid level switch
18Syphon the fluid out of the washer
reservoir until the level is below the switch.
19Disconnect the switch multi-plug.
Carefully prise the switch out of its grommet
and remove it. Note how flats on the grommet
and switch ensure correct fitting (see
illustration).
20When refitting, make sure that the
grommet is in good condition (renew if
necessary) and is correctly seated. Press the
switch home, reconnect the multi-plug and
refill the reservoir.
Control assembly
Models before April 1992
21Remove the instrument panel surround
and the facia top.
22Remove the two nuts which secure the
assembly(see illustration).Disconnect the
multi-plug by pressing in the locking lever and
pulling the plug. Remove the control
assembly.
23Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check the AWS for correct operation before
refitting the disturbed trim.
Models from April 1992
24Unclip and remove the right-hand facia
undercover panel.25Carefully prise out the bonnet release lever
surround to gain access to the lever retaining
screws. Undo the three screws then withdraw
the lever. Remove the cable retaining clip and
detach the operating lever from the cable.
26Slacken and remove the five right-hand
lower facia panel retaining screws and remove
the panel from the vehicle.
27Undo the module retaining screw then
disconnect the wiring connectors and remove
the control module from the vehicle (see
illustration).
28Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
Bulb failure module
Models before April 1992
29Remove the under-dash trim on the
driver’s side. This is secured by six screws,
one of which is only accessible after removing
the air vent grille.
30Pull the module from its bracket.
Disconnect the multi-plug by pressing in the
locking lever and pulling the plug. Remove the
module (see illustration).
31Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Models from April 1992
32Remove the right-hand facia undercover
and lower facia panel.
33The bulb failure module is the right-hand
of the two modules situated directly above the
control pedals. Release the module retaining
clips then disconnect the wiring connector and
remove the module from the vehicle.
34Refitting is a reverse of remova.l
Control switches
1Remove the steering wheel.
2Remove the three screws which secure the
horn contact plate. Disconnect the spade
terminals and remove the contact plate.
3Carefully prise the switch out of the steering
wheel. Disconnect the spade terminals and
remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Vacuum dump valve/switch
5Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side.
6For the brake pedal, slacken the switch top
and bottom mounting nuts, then remove the
bottom nut completely. Disconnect the wiring
plug and vacuum hose from the switch and
remove it.
7The clutch pedal switch is mounted in a
spring-loaded bracket to allow for small
changes in pedal position with the operation of
the self-adjusting mechanism. Disconnect the
wiring plug and vacuum hose, then push the
switch out of its bracket.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the switch position so that there is a
gap of at least 1.5 mm (0.06 in) between the
switch plunger cap and the body of the switch
(see illustration).
28Speed control system
components - removal and
refitting
Body electrical system 13•19
13
27.16 Removing the coolant level switch27.19 Removing the washer fluid level
switch27.22 Auxiliary warning system control
assembly - retaining nuts arrowed
27.27 Removing the auxiliary warning
system control module27.30 The bulb failure module secured to
the under-dash trim28.8 Vacuum dump valve/switch (B)
X = 1.5 mm (0.06 in) minimum
procarmanuals.com

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For
the owner who does not possess any, their
purchase will prove a considerable expense,
offsetting some of the savings made by doing-
it-yourself. However, provided that the tools
purchased meet the relevant national safety
standards and are of good quality, they will
last for many years and prove an extremely
worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings:
Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair tool
kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &
19 mmMAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MGearbox and final drive filler/level plug keys
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MSet of feeler blades
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm
dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for anyone
undertaking any major repairs to a motor
vehicle, and are additional to those given in the
Maintenance and minor repairlist. Included in
this list is a comprehensive set of sockets.
Although these are expensive, they will be
found invaluable as they are so versatile -
particularly if various drives are included in the
set. We recommend the half-inch square-drive
type, as this can be used with most proprietary
torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket
set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive
tubular box spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need to
be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)*
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammerMSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustration)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
* Some Imperial sized nuts and bolts may be
found on air conditioning and automatic
transmission components
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturer’s instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy many
of these tools. Where this is the case, you
could consider clubbing together with friends
(or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint
purchase, or borrowing the tools against a
deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large range
of special tools for hire at modest rates.
REF•1
Spline bit setValve spring compressorSockets and reversible ratchet drive
Tools and Working Facilities
procarmanuals.com

REF•3
The following list contains only those tools and
instruments freely available to the public, and not
those special tools produced by the vehicle
manufacturer specifically for its dealer network.
You will find occasional references to these
manufacturer’s special tools in the text of this
manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing
the job without the vehicle manufacturer’s special
tool is given. However, sometimes there is no
alternative to using them. Where this is the case
and the relevant tool cannot be bought or
borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a
franchised garage.
MValve spring compressor (see illustration)
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor (see illustration)
MPiston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
MCylinder bore hone (see illustration)
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers (see
illustrations)
MDial gauge (see illustration)
MStroboscopic timing light (see illustration)
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge (see
illustration)
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
(see illustration)
MClutch plate alignment set (see
illustration)
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
(see illustration)
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
(see illustration)
MStud extractors (see illustration)
MTap and die set (see illustration)
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jackBuying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase
items which meet the relevant national safety
standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or
manager of the shop for advice before making
a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or
workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers
and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal
spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any
measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc,
must be carefully stored where they cannot be
damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good serviceable
finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is
the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, some
form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints and so on, which become necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Lastly, always keep a supply of old
newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available,
and try to keep any working area as clean as
possible.
Bush and bearing removal/installation setStud extractor setTap and die set
Tools and Working Facilities
procarmanuals.com

REF•8
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
m m
Badly stretched or broken cable (Chapter 6).m
mStripped pawl on pedal (Chapter 6).m
mBroken clutch release bearing or arm (Chapter 6).m
mBroken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m m
Cable free play excessive (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate sticking on gearbox input shaft splines (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).m
mClutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no
increase in vehicle speed)
m m
Clutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
Judder as clutch is engaged
m m
Clutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).m
mClutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).m
mWorn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2).m
mClutch driven plate hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn
(Chapter 6).
Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m m
Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).m
mWorn or dry clutch pedal pivot (Chapter 6).m
mFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).m
mPressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).m
mBroken clutch driven plate cushioning springs (Chapter 6).
Excessive fuel consumption
m
mAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mIgnition timing incorrect or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBrakes binding (Chapter 10).
m mTyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m
mDamaged fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapters 1 and 4).
Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
mLeaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mLeaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mBroken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 4).
Fault Finding
4Clutch
5Manual gearbox
Noisy in neutral with engine running
m m
Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7A).*
m mClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).
Noisy in one particular gear
m m
Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).*
Difficulty engaging gears
m m
Clutch fault (Chapter 6).m
mWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).m
mWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
Jumps out of gear
m m
Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).m
mWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*m
mWorn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*
Vibration
m m
Lack of oil (Chapter 1).m
mWorn bearings (Chapter 7A).*
Lubricant leaks
m m
Leaking oil seal (Chapter 7A).m
mLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7A).*
*Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, so
that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.
6Automatic transmission
Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.
Fluid leakage
m m
Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by air flow.
m mTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using a
degreasing agent or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low speed,
so that air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise and
support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming from. The
following are common areas of leakage:
a)Fluid pan ( transmission “sump”).
b)Dipstick tube (Chapter 1).
c)Transmission-to-fluid cooler fluid pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
3Fuel and exhaust systems
procarmanuals.com

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m m
Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
General gear selection problems
m m
The most likely cause of gear selection problems is a faulty or
poorly-adjusted gear selector mechanism. The following are common
problems associated with a faulty selector mechanism:
a)Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b)Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than
the one actually being used.
c)Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d)Poor gear shift quality, or erratic gear changes.
m
mRefer any problems to a Ford dealer, or an automatic transmission
specialist.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
m m
Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
m
mIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m m
Faulty starter inhibitor switch (Chapter 7B).
m
mIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
m m
There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid
level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,
check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1.
Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if
needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.
REF•9Fault Finding
7Propeller shaft
Clunking or knocking noise when taking up drive
m m
Worn universal joints (Chapter 8).m
mLoose flange bolt (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
m m
Worn centre bearing or universal joints (Chapter 8).m
mBent or distorted shaft (Chapter 8).m
mDeteriorated rubber insulator on centre bearing ( Chapter 8)
8Final drive and driveshafts
Excessive final drive noise
m m
Oil level low, or incorrect grade (Chapter 1)m
mWorn bearings (Chapter 9)m
mWorn or badly adjusted crownwheel and pinion (Chapter 9)m
mLoose or deteriorated final drive mountings (Chapter 9)
Oil leakage from final drive
m m
Pinion or output flange oil seal leaking (Chapter 9)
m
mRear cover leaking (Chapter 9)
m
mCover or casing cracked (Chapter 9)
Grating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
m m
Flange screws loose (Chapter 9)
m
mCV joints worn (Chapter 9)
m
mDriveshaft bent (Chapter 9)
9Braking system
Note:Make sure that the tyres are in good condition and correctly
inflated, that the front wheel alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is
not loaded with weight in an unequal manner. Apart from checking the
condition of all pipe and hose connections, any faults occurring on the
anti-lock braking system should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
m m
Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads on one side (Chapters 1 and 10).
m mSeized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston (Chapter 10).m
mA mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(Chapter 10).
m mBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).m
mWorn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters 1
and 11).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
m m
Brake pad friction material worn down to metal backing (Chapters 1
and 10).
m mExcessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 10).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m m
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
m
mAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).
m
mFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m m
Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).
m
mDeteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 10).
m
mMaster cylinder mountings loose (Chapter 10).
m
mFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m m
Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
m
mDisconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapters 1 and 10).
m mPrimary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 10).
m
mSeized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 10).
m
mBrake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 10).
m
mIncorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 10).
m
mBrake pads contaminated (Chapter 10).
procarmanuals.com

REF•13Glossary of Technical Terms
Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.
Crocodile clipSee Alligator clipDDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
F
Fan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.
Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Feeler blade
procarmanuals.com

REF•14Glossary of Technical Terms
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the side
electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.
Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to
the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Adjusting spark plug gap
Plastigage
Gasket
procarmanuals.com

REF•15Glossary of Technical Terms
RotorIn a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
RunoutThe amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
SSealantA liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lampAn older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebeltA single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
ShimThin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammerA special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.SprocketA tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switchOn vehicles with an
automatic transmission, a switch that
prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral
or Park.
StrutSee MacPherson strut.
TTappetA cylindrical component which
transmits motion from the cam to the valve
stem, either directly or via a pushrod and
rocker arm. Also called a cam follower.
ThermostatA heat-controlled valve that
regulates the flow of coolant between the
cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining
optimum engine operating temperature. A
thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in
which the temperature is regulated.
Thrust bearingThe bearing in the clutch
assembly that is moved in to the release
levers by clutch pedal action to disengage the
clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.
Timing beltA toothed belt which drives the
camshaft. Serious engine damage may result
if it breaks in service.
Timing chainA chain which drives the
camshaft.
Toe-inThe amount the front wheels are
closer together at the front than at the rear. On
rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-in is usually specified to keep the front
wheels running parallel on the road by
offsetting other forces that tend to spread the
wheels apart.
Toe-outThe amount the front wheels are
closer together at the rear than at the front. On
front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-out is usually specified.
ToolsFor full information on choosing and
using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive
Tools Manual.
TracerA stripe of a second colour applied to
a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
another one with the same colour insulator.
Tune-upA process of accurate and careful
adjustments and parts replacement to obtain
the best possible engine performance.TurbochargerA centrifugal device, driven by
exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
Normally used to increase the power output
from a given engine displacement, but can
also be used primarily to reduce exhaust
emissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Diesel
engine).
UUniversal joint or U-jointA double-pivoted
connection for transmitting power from a
driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A
U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a
cross-shaped member called the spider.
VValveA device through which the flow of
liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk
may be started, stopped, or regulated by a
movable part that opens, shuts, or partially
obstructs one or more ports or passageways.
A valve is also the movable part of such a
device.
Valve clearanceThe clearance between the
valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is
measured when the valve is closed.
Vernier caliperA precision measuring
instrument that measures inside and outside
dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
micrometer, but more convenient.
ViscosityThe thickness of a liquid or its
resistance to flow.
VoltA unit for expressing electrical
“pressure” in a circuit. One volt that will
produce a current of one ampere through a
resistance of one ohm.
WWeldingVarious processes used to join metal
items by heating the areas to be joined to a
molten state and fusing them together. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Welding Manual.
Wiring diagramA drawing portraying the
components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical
system, using standardised symbols. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.
Serpentine drivebelt
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