1985 FORD GRANADA boot

the door through the large cut-out. Further
displacement or removal of the foamrubber
sheet may be necessary.
7Refit in the reverse order to removal, noting
the following points:
a)Apply a little grease to the interior handle
rods where they pass through the plastic
bushes
b)When securing the interior handle, have
the locking lever in the “unlocked”
position, hold the assembly forwards as
far as itwill go and tighten the securing
screw
c)Check all functions before refitting the trim
panel.
Door weatherstrip
1Open the door and remove the weatherstrip
securing screw from the latch end. In the case
of the rear door, also remove the screw from
the hinge end.
2Carefully lift the latch end of the
weatherstrip and pull it off the door.
3Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using your palm to seat the weatherstrip.
Aperture weatherstrip
4Open the door. Remove the scuff plate
securing screws from the bottom of the door
aperture.
5Pull the old weatherstrip out of the door
aperture.
6Fit the new weatherstrip, starting at the
right-angled corner at the top. Fit the
weatherstrip to the other corners and bends,
leaving the straight sections until last.
7Refit the scuff, plate securing screws.
All models except Estate
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Remove the six nuts which secure the
tailgate handle. Remove the handle and
recover the gasket.
4Disconnect the tailgate lock switch multi-
plug. Release the switch locking tab and
remove the switch.
5Disconnect the operating rod from the lock
lever (see illustration). Extract the U-clip and
remove the lock barrel.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Estate models
7The tailgate lock barrel can be removed and
refitted as described above, bearing in mind
the notes made in Section 8 when removing
the interior trim panels and noting that the lock
assembly is retained by two Torx bolts.1Open up the boot lid and remove the trim
panel from the inside of the lid.
2Unscrew the four boot lid exterior trim
retaining panel bolts (two situated on each
side of the lock) then carefully prise out the
nine panel retaining clips and remove the
panel from the boot lid.
3Undo the two lock barrel retaining nuts then
partially withdraw the barrel and disconnect the
wiring connector and lock operating rod from
the barrel. Remove the lock barrel from the lid.
4Undo the four lid lock retaining bolts then
withdraw the lock assembly from the boot lid,
disconnecting the central locking and warning
switch wiring plugs (see illustration).
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure tightening all retaining bolts
securely. On completion check the operation
of the boot lid lock and lock barrel before
refitting the trim panel.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Unhook the operating rod from the tailgate
latch. Also disconnect the lock switch and
solenoid multi-plugs.4Remove the three bolts which secure the
tailgate latch. Remove the latch.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Open the tailgate and support it with a piece
of wood.
2Release the strut from its mountings by
raising the spring clips with a small
screwdriver, then pulling the strut off the ball-
stands. Do not raise the clips more than 4 mm
(0.16 in) if the strut is to be re-used.
3Do not attempt to dismantle a strut, and
dispose of it safely. It contains gas under
pressure.
4To refit a strut, position it over the ball-
studs. Push on each end in turn until it snaps
home.
1Open the fuel filler flap. Remove the key.
2Apply pressure to the lock barrel at the key
slot, using the thumb of one hand. With the
other hand insert a screwdriver into the cut-
out in the filler flap to release the lock barrel
retaining spring. As the spring is released,
thumb pressure will eject the lock barrel into
the petrol tank (see illustration).
3To refit, push the lock barrel into the flap
until the retaining spring clicks home.
Front door
1Open the door and remove the screws
which secure the front and rear edges of the
trim panel (see illustration).
2Remove the two screws from under the
covers on the door pocket. Unclip and remove
the pocket.
3On models with electrically-operated
windows and mirrors, prise out and disconnect
the window and mirror switches. The window
switch multi-plugs on the driver’s side are
22Door interior trim panel -
removal and refitting
21Fuel filler lock barrel -
removal and refitting
20Tailgate strut - removal and
refitting
19Tailgate latch assembly -
removal and refitting
18Boot lid lock barrel - removal
and refitting
17Tailgate lock barrel - removal
and refitting
16Door weatherstrip - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•7
12
17.5 Operating rod (arrowed) connected to
tailgate lock lever18.4 Boot lid lock retaining bolts (arrowed)
- Saloon models
21.2 Removing the fuel filler flap lock barrel
procarmanuals.com

Later models
7The radiator grille of these models can be
removed and refitted as described above,
noting that it will also be necessary to remove
the headlamp wiper arms (where fitted) before
the grille can be removed. To remove a wiper
arm, lift the cover to gain access to the
retaining nut then undo the nut and pull the
arm off the spindle (see illustration). On
refitting, position the arm so that it is correctly
aligned with the base of the headlamp and
locate it on the spindle splines. Refit the
spindle nut and tighten it securely.
1Prise the centre insert out of the moulding
with a screwdriver.
2Remove the securing screws and pull off the
moulding. In the case of the door mouldings,
note that the ends are also secured with
adhesive tape (see illustration).
3Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new adhesive tape when necessary.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed for this job.
2Open the front doors. Remove the gutter
weatherstrip, making sure to release the
bottom flap which is glued to the A-pillar.
3Drill out the five rivets which secure the side
moulding. The side moulding can now be
removed
4Repeat the operations on the other side of
the vehicle, then remove the upper moulding
by pulling it upwards.
5Commence refitting by pushing the upper
moulding onto its clips. Make sure it is
centrally aligned.
6Refit the side mouldings and secure them
with new blind rivets.
7Clean and degrease the gutter weatherstrip
flaps, then glue them in position and refit the
weatherstrips.1Open the tailgate. From inside remove the
two nuts which secure the upper moulding
and the two screws which secure the lower
moulding. Close the tailgate.
2Prise off the lower moulding and fittings.
3Pull off the side mouldings, which are
clipped to the edge of the glass.
4To remove the upper moulding, carefully lift
one end. Free the moulding from its clips,
working from the lifted end, and remove it.
5To remove the lower moulding, simply pull it
from its clips.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the upper and lower mouldings
are centred before securing them.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed to refit some
of these mouldings.
2Commence by removing the door
weatherstrip.
Front door
3Remove the nut which secures the upper
moulding. Carefully prise the upper moulding
off the door.
4Prise the edge moulding out of the window
channel, then twist it and remove it. 5Remove the door mirror.
6Drill out the rivet which secures the front
corner moulding. Remove the moulding.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using a new blind rivet to secure the corner
moulding.
Rear door
8Remove the nut securing the upper moulding
to the front top corner of the door. Carefully pull
the moulding from the door, separating the
stud and bush fitting at the rear end.
9Drill out the rivet which secures the rear
moulding to the top of the door. Separate the
rear moulding flange from the door and
window channel and remove it by twisting it.
10Remove the front moulding by separating
the weatherstrip from the back of it and lifting
the moulding from the door.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use a new rivet to secure the rear moulding.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed to refit the
moulding.
2Open the rear door. Drill out the rivets which
secure the weatherstrip to the mouldings.
3Drill out the top rivet and remove the upper
moulding from its studs.
4Open the tailgate, drill out the lower
moulding rivet and remove the lower moulding
from its clips.
5Drill out the three rivets which secure the
side moulding. Remove the side moulding.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using new rivets to secure the mouldings.
1The bonnet emblem, tailgate motif and
other badges are glued in place. They may be
removed by using a piece of thin braided nylon
cord, making a back-and-forth motion to cut
through the adhesive.
2Clean old adhesive from the bonnet or boot
lid using methylated spirit.
3If a new emblem is to be fitted, warm it (for
instance with a hairdryer) until it is warm to the
touch. Peel the backing paper off the adhesive
surface and press the emblem into position,
making sure that it is properly aligned. Hold
the emblem in place for at least half a minute
to allow the glue to set.
1Front bumper height is easily adjusted by
means of the two adjusters incorporated in the
front mountings (see illustration). A Torx key
to fit the locking bolt and a 24 mm socket will
be required.
34Front bumper - height
adjustment
33Motifs and emblems -
removal and refitting
32Rear quarter window
moulding - removal and
refitting
31Door window frame
mouldings - removal and
refitting
30Tailgate window mouldings -
removal and refitting
29Windscreen mouldings -
removal and refitting
28Side mouldings - removal and
refitting
12•10Bodywork and fittings
27.5 Removing the radiator grille centre
section
A Raise tangB Twist apart
27.7 Removing a headlamp wiper arm
28.2 Door side mouldings
A ScrewsB Adhesive tape
procarmanuals.com

1For removal and refitting of the front
foglights, front direction indicators, direction
indicator repeaters and the number plate
lights, refer to the previous Section.
Headlight
2Unhook the direction indicator light unit
retaining spring. Withdraw the direction
indicator unit and allow it to hang.
3Pull out the rubber moulding from between
the base of the headlight and the bumper.
(This moulding may in fact be stuck to the
headlight surround.)
4Release the headlight surround retaininglugs, prising them carefully with a screwdriver.
Work from the outside towards the centre of
the vehicle. Remove the surround by pulling it
forwards and then sideways.
5Remove the radiator grille, secured by two
screws.
6Disconnect the headlight wiring connector.
Remove the two retaining screws, and the nut
on the side mounting (see illustrations). Draw
the headlight unit forwards and twist it to
remove it.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the locating pin on the outside
of the headlight unit engages in the hole in the
apron panel.
8If the new unit has been fitted, or if the
adjusting screws have been disturbed, have
the beam alignment checked without delay.9Note that the headlight lens can be renewed
independently of the rest of the unit, once the
securing clips have been removed (see
illustration).
Auxiliary driving light
10This is integral with the headlight unit.
Rear light cluster
Hatchback
11Remove the rear light cluster bulbholder
as described in the previous Section.
12Remove the six nuts which secure the rear
light unit (see illustration).
13Withdraw the light unit from the vehicle
and disconnect the multi-plug and wiring
harness from it (see illustration).
14Fit a new gasket to the light unit if the old
one was damaged.
15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Saloon
16Remove the relevant trim panel from the
rear corner of the boot, noting that it may be
necessary to remove one or more of the rear
lower trim panel retaining screws (see
illustration).
17Disconnect the wiring connector from the
rear light cluster, then undo the four retaining
nuts and withdraw the light unit from the car
along with the rubber sealing gasket (see
illustration).
18Refitting is a reverse of removal ensuring
that the light unit rubber sealing gasket is in
good condition.
4Exterior light units - removal
and refitting
13•6Body electrical system
4.6a Headlight top mounting screw
4.13 Disconnecting the multi-plug from the
rear light unit
4.9 Removing a headlight lens securing clip4.12 Four rear light unit securing nuts
(arrowed) - there are two more out of sight
4.16 Remove the trim panel for access to
the rear light cluster retaining nuts4.17 Rear light cluster wiring connector (A)
and retaining nuts (B)
4.6b Headlight bottom mounting screw4.6c Headlight side mounting nut
procarmanuals.com

8If a new unit has been fitted, trim it by tuning
in a weak medium wave station (around 1500
kHz/200 m) and turning the trimmer screw in
either direction until the best reception is
obtained. On the radio originally fitted, the
trimmer screw is on the front face of the unit;
for other types of radio, consult the
manufacturer’s instructions. Electronic units
are normally self-trimming.
Radio/cassette unit
9Insert the DIN extraction tools (paragraph 1)
into the holes at each end of the unit (see
illustration). Push the tools home, then pull
them apart and rearwards to remove the unit.
Pull evenly on each side, otherwise the unit
may jam in its slide.
10Disconnect the aerial cable and other
wiring plugs.
11To remove the DIN tools from the unit,
push the clips into which they engage
rearwards with a screwdriver (see
illustration).
12If a new unit is being fitted, transfer the
support bracket and locating plate to it.
13Reconnect the wiring to the unit, engage it
in its slide and press it home until the retaining
clips engage.
14Refer to paragraph 8 to trim the new unit.
Radio/cassette unit amplifier
Models before April 1992
15Remove the facia top crash pad.
16Disconnect the wiring connectors from theamplifier unit then undo the four retaining nuts
and remove the amplifier from the facia.
17Refitting is a reverse of removal.
Models from April 1992
18Using a flat-bladed tool carefully prise the
left-hand facia vent panel out from the facia to
gain access to the amplifier unit (see illustration).
19Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws then carefully withdraw the amplifier
unit, disconnecting the wiring connectors as
they become accessible (see illustrations).
20Refit by reversing the removal procedure
ensuring that the vent panel is held securely in
position by the retaining clips.
Graphic equaliser
21When fitted, the graphic equaliser is removed
in the same way as the radio/cassette unit.
1Depending on the level of equipment fitted,
loudspeakers may be located in the front door
panels, below the rear parcel shelf and in the
facia. Those in the facia are high frequency units.
Front door speakers
2Remove the door interior trim panel.
3Remove the four screws which secure the
loudspeaker. Withdraw the speaker,
disconnect the wiring and remove it.4Refit by reversing the removal operations;
observe the TOP marking when fitting the
speaker (see illustration).
Rear parcel shelf speakers
Hatchback
5Remove the speaker cover by twisting it
anti-clockwise and pulling it off.
6Remove the four nuts which secure the
speaker, lower the speaker and disconnect the
wiring from it. Note that the terminals are
different sizes to ensure correct reconnection.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Saloon
8From within the boot, slacken and remove
the single speaker retaining bolt (see
illustration).
9From inside the car, lift the speaker out of
the rear parcel shelf and disconnect the wiring
connector.
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Rear luggage compartment
speakers (Estate models)
11Release the retaining clips and remove the
relevant luggage compartment interior side
trim panel to gain access to the speaker.
12Undo the two retaining screws then
remove the speaker, disconnecting the wiring
connector as it becomes accessible.
13Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
31Loudspeakers (original
equipment) - removal and
refitting
Body electrical system 13•21
13
30.9 A DIN extraction tool fitted to a
radio/cassette unit30.11 Releasing a DIN extraction tool30.18 Carefully prise out the left-hand vent
panel . . .
30.19a . . . undo the retaining screws . . .30.19b . . . then withdraw the amplifier unit
and disconnect the wiring connectors31.4 Front door loudspeaker - note TOP
marking
procarmanuals.com

High frequency units
14Remove the instrument panel surround
and the facia top.
15Remove the two screws which secure the
speaker bracket. Disconnect the wiring and
withdraw the speaker and bracket together.
The screws which secure the speaker to the
bracket can then be removed (see
illustration).
16Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Hatchback
1The heated rear window element is used as
the radio aerial. To produce a good signal at
the radio a pre-amplifier, mounted in the
tailgate, is used.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Remove the two screws which secure the
pre-amplifier (see illustration). Disconnect the
wiring from the pre-amplifier and remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Saloon
5On these models the pre-amplifier unit is
located under the rear parcel shelf and can be
accessed from within the boot.
6To remove the unit, from within the boot,
slacken and remove the two retaining screwsthen lower the pre-amplifier out of position
and disconnect the wiring connectors (see
illustration).
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Estate
8On Estate models the pre-amplifier unit is
situated in the roof, just in front of the tailgate.
9To remove the pre-amplifier, open up the
tailgate then carefully release the headlining
from all the relevant trim panels and peel it
back until access to the unit can be gained.
10Undo the two retaining screws then lower
the unit out from the roof and disconnect the
wiring connectors.
11Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the headlining is
neatly fitted and correctly located behind all
the relevant trim panels.
1This Section deals with the facia-mounted
control. On models with a graphic equaliser, the
joystick fader is incorporated in the equaliser.
2Remove the instrument cluster.
3Prise out the fader surround and detach the
bulbholder (see illustration).
4Release the fader control by turning its
retaining clip anticlockwise. Withdraw it from
the facia and disconnect its multi-plug.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Pull the heater control knob off its lever.
Remove the two retaining screws from the top
corners of the rear console faceplate.
2Pull off the balance and volume control
knobs. Withdraw the console and disconnect
the wiring from it.
3The console may be removed from the face
plate if wished by undoing the three retaining
screws.
4To renew the console bulbs, extract the
bulbholders by grasping with pliers and
turning them anti-clockwise.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1The rear headphone relay is located behind
the facia, next to the AWS control assembly
and the speed control module (when fitted). Its
function is to mute the loudspeakers when the
headphones are plugged into the rear
entertainment console.
2To remove the relay, first remove the AWS
control assembly and (if applicable) the speed
control unit.
3Disconnect the relay multi-plug, undo its
securing screw and nut and remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
The alarm system is available as an optional
extra. On vehicles so equipped, the alarm is
automatically set by locking the driver’s or
front passenger’s door with the key. After a
brief delay (approximately 20 seconds), the
alarm will be set off if the doors, bonnet or
tailgate are opened.
The only way to disarm the alarm system is
by unlocking one of the front doors with the
key. Even if the key is used to open the
tailgate, if the alarm is set it will go off.
36Anti-theft alarm system
components - removal and
refitting
35Rear headphone relay -
removal and refitting
34Rear entertainment console -
removal and refitting
33Joystick fader control -
removal and refitting
32Radio aerial pre-amplifier
(original equipment) - removal
and refitting
13•22Body electrical system
31.8 Removing a rear speaker retaining
bolt
32.6 Radio aerial pre-amplifier retaining
screws (arrowed)33.3 Removing the joystick fader
31.15 High frequency loudspeaker located
under the facia top. One bracket securing
screw (arrowed) is visible32.3 Radio aerial pre-amplifier mounted in
the tailgate
procarmanuals.com

REF•6
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter motor (Chapter 5).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2 or 5).
m mEngine earth strap broken or disconnected.
Starter motor turns engine slowly
m
mPartially-discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push
start) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery earth to body defective (Chapter 5).
m mEngine earth strap loose.
m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor internal fault (Chapter 5).
Engine rotates, but will not start
m
mFuel pump inertia switch tripped (electric pump) (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg broken timing chain) (Chapter 2).
Engine difficult to start when cold
m
mBattery discharged (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mOther ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
Engine difficult to start when hot
m
mAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m mStarter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2 or 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body or inlet manifold (Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine idles erratically
m
mCarburettor stepper motor plunger dirty (2.0 litre only) (Chapter 5)
m mIncorrectly-adjusted idle speed (Chapter 4).
m mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine misfires at idle speed
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
(Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mDisconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapter 4).
Fault Finding
spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
principles apply. These are as follows:
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is
there fuel in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular
point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault isindicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test
gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a
fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the
underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same
way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get
you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it
wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established
and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a
“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling
around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently-fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realise
that all the evidence was there from the start.
1 Engine
procarmanuals.com

A
ABS module - 10•11
Accelerator pump diaphragm renewal - 4•12
Accessory shops - 0•8
Acknowledgements - 0•4
Aerial pre-amplifier - 13•22
Air bags - 0•5
Air charge temperature sensor - 5•12
Air cleaner - 1•16, 4•4
Air conditioner - 1•14, 1•15, 3•2, 3•9
Air temperature sensor - 13•18
Alarm signal buzzer - 13•23
Alarm system horn - 13•23
Alternator - 3•7, 5•4
Anti-roll bar - 11•9, 11•12
Anti-theft alarm - 13•22, 13•23
Antifreeze mixture - 3•2
Asbestos - 0•5
Ashtray light - 13•8
Automatic choke - 1•16, 4•10, 4•12
Automatic transmission- 1•11, 1•15, 2B•6,
2B•7, 7B•1et seq, REF•8
Automatic transmission brake band
adjustment - 1•19
Automatic transmission selector light - 13•9
Auxiliary drivebelt - 1•12
Auxiliary driving light - 13•4, 13•6
Auxiliary shaft - 2A•9, 2A•14, 2A•16
Auxiliary warning system components - 13•18
B
Backrests - 12•19, 12•18
Battery - 0•5, 1•8, 1•13, 5•3, 5•4
Battery will not hold a charge for more than
a few days - REF•11
Bleeding the brakes - 10•3
Bleeding the power steering - 11•3
Body corrosion - 0•14
Body damage - 12•2, 12•4
Body electrical system- 13•1et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 12•1et seq
Bodywork repairs - 12•3
Bonnet - 12•4, 12•9
Bonnet release cable - 12•6
Booster battery (jump) starting - 0•10
Boot lid - 12•5
Boot lid lock barrel - 12•7
Brake band adjustment - 1•19, 7B•3
Brake fluid - 1•7, 1•19
Brake hydraulic system - 10•3
Brake pedal effort high to stop vehicle - REF•9
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
- REF•9
Brake pedal pulsates when braking hard -
REF•10
Brake pedal travel excessive - REF•9
Brake pipe and hoses - 1•15, 10•10
Brakes binding - REF•10
Braking system- 0•13, 10•1et seq, REF•9
Bulb failure module - 13•19
Bulbs - 13•4, 13•7
Bumper - 12•10, 12•11
Burning - 0•5
C
Cables - 3•8, 4•7, 6•3, 7B•3, 10•11
Caliper - 10•5, 10•6
Camshaft - 2A•7, 2A•14, 2A•17, 2B•14,
2C•12, 2C•13, 2C•15
Camshaft drivebelt - 1•20
Capacities - 1•3
Carbon canister - 4•23
Carburettor stepper motor - 5•10
Catalytic converter - 4•4
Central locking motor - 13•13
Central locking system inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation - REF•11
Centre console - 12•15
Cigarette lighter - 13•10
Clock - 13•9, 13•10
Clutch- 6•1et seq, REF•8
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select
gears) - REF•8
Clutch pedal travels to floor - REF•8
Clutch release bearing and arm - 6•4
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with
no increase in vehicle speed) - REF•8
CO emissions (mixture) - 0•14
Compliance bushes - 11•9
Compression test - 2A•20, 2B•18, 2C•21
Compressor drivebelt - 3•9
Computer module and bulb - 13•18
Condenser fan and motor - 3•10
Connecting rods - 2A•11, 2A•13, 2A•15,
2B•17, 2C•12, 2C•14, 2C•16
Console light - 13•9
Contents - 0•2
Control assembly - 13•19
Control module - 10•13
Control switches - 13•19
Control units - 13•13
Conversion factors - REF•16
Coolant - 1•6, 1•20
Coolant hoses - 2C•7
Coolant leakage - REF•7
Coolant level switch - 13•18
Coolant temperature sensor - 5•10
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems-
3•1 et seq, REF•7
Corrosion - REF•7
Courtesy light - 13•7
Crankcase ventilation system - 1•19,
2A•12, 2B•3, 2C•15
Crankshaft and bearings - 2A•11, 2A•12,
2A•15, 2B•17, 2B•18, 2C•12, 2C•14,
2C•15
Crankshaft oil seals - 2A•10, 2B•15, 2C•12
Crankshaft speed/position sensor - 5•11
Crossmember insulator - 11•12
Crushing - 0•5
Cushion - 12•18
Cylinder block and bores - 2A•13
Cylinder bores - 2C•14
Cylinder head - 2A•6, 2A•8, 2A•14, 2A•17,
2B•10, 2B•11, 2B•14, 2C•8, 2C•13,
2C•19
D
De-ice thermostat - 3•10
Decarbonising - 2A•14
Dents in bodywork - 12•2
Direction indicator - 13•5, 13•11
Discs - 10•3, 10•4, 10•8
Distributor - 5•5
Door exterior handle - 12•6
Door interior trim panel - 12•7
Door latch assembly - 12•6
Door lights - 13•7
Door lock barrel - 12•6
Door pillar switch - 13•12
Door speakers - 13•21
Door striker plate - 12•6
Door switch - 13•18
Door weatherstrip - 12•7
Door window - 12•8, 12•9
Doors - 0•12, 12•4, 12•7, 12•8, 12•9, 12•10
Downshift mechanism - 7B•3
Drivebelts - 1•12, 1•20, 3•7, 3•9, 11•6
Driveshaft - 1•15, 9•3
Drivetrain - 1•16
E
Earth fault - 13•4
EEC IV module - 5•9
Electric shock - 0•5
Electric windows inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation - REF•11
Electrical system - 0•12, 1•8, REF•10
Electronic ignition systems - 5•3
Engine- 2A•1 et seq, 2B•1 et seq, 2C•1 et
seq, REF•6
Engine backfires - REF•7
Engine bay light - 13•8
Engine difficult to start - REF•6
Engine dismantling - 2B•8
Engine electrical systems- 5•1et seq
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to
start - REF•6
Engine hesitates on acceleration - REF•7
Engine idles erratically - REF•6
Engine lacks power - REF•7
Engine management control module - 5•9
Engine management system relays - 5•11
Engine misfires - REF•6, REF•7
Engine mountings - 2A•11, 2B•8, 2C•12
Engine oil and filter - 1•6, 1•9
Engine rotates, but will not start - REF•6
Engine runs-on after switching off - REF•7
Engine stalls - REF•7
Engine starts, but stops immediately -
REF•6
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in
gears other than Park or Neutral -
REF•9
Entertainment console - 13•22
Environmental considerations - REF•4
ESC II module - 5•3, 5•9
Exhaust emission checks - 0•14
Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor - 4•22
Exhaust manifold(s) - 4•21
Exhaust system - 0•13, 1•10, 4•22
Expansion tank - 3•7
IND•1Index
Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”
procarmanuals.com