1983 FIAT UNO belt

Coolant pump -
removal and refitting#
11The coolant pump is located on the
crankshaft pulley end of the engine and is
driven by the timing belt.
12The pump cannot be repaired and must
be regarded as disposable.
13Drain the cooling system.
14Remove the timing belt cover and then set
No. 1 piston to TDC. To achieve this, turn the
crankshaft pulley bolt until the camshaft
sprocket timing mark is aligned with the one
on the cylinder head.
15Release the belt tensioner and slip the
timing belt off the camshaft and coolant pump
sprockets.
16Unbolt and remove the coolant pump and
clean the mounting face of all old gasket
material.
17Apply a continuous bead of RTV silicone
sealant (instant gasket) to the mounting face
of the coolant pump and bolt it into position
(photos).
18Check that the camshaft sprocket and the
crankshaft have not been moved and fit the
timing belt to the camshaft and coolant pump
sprockets. The pump sprocket does not
require setting in any particular position
before connecting the timing belt.
19Tension the belt as described in Sec-
tion 5B of this Chapter.
20Fit the timing belt cover.
21After allowing one hour for the gasket
material to cure, refill and bleed the cooling
system.
PART B:
1301 CC TURBO IE ENGINE
Description
1The cooling system on this model has flow
and return connections to the turbocharger,
and is an essential means of cooling the
turbocharger.
2The radiator cooling fan is of two-speed
type, being controlled by a two-stage
thermostatic switch screwed into the radiator
side tank.
3According to the coolant temperature level,
the fan speed is regulated to provide the most
effective cooling.
4The remote cooling system expansion tank
is mounted in the left-hand rear corner of the
engine compartment (photo).
PART C:
1372 CC IE AND 1372 CC
TURBO IE ENGINES
Description
1The cooling system layout and components
for the 1372 cc engines is shown in
Figs. 13.29 and 13.30.
2The system on each engine operates in
essentially the same manner as that
described for the other models in Chapter 2,
but the location of components and the
coolant hose routings differ according to
model. The cooling system expansion tank
location differs according to model, being
either located on the side of the radiator ormounted separately on the side of the inner
wing panel.
3On Turbo models, the cooling system also
assists in cooling the turbocharger.
Maintenance
4The maintenance procedures are
essentially the same as those described for
the other models in Chapter 2.
Cooling system - draining,
flushing and refillingÁ
Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow
antifreeze to come into contact
with your skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with
plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container or in a
puddle in the driveway or on the garage
floor. Children and pets are attracted by its
sweet smell. Antifreeze is fatal if ingested.
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6Working inside the vehicle, turn the heater
temperature control knob fully to the right,
which will fully open the heater coolant valve.
7With the expansion tank cap removed,
place a suitable container beneath the
radiator bottom hose.
8Loosen the clip and ease the bottom hose
away from the radiator outlet (photo). Allow
the coolant to drain into the container.
9Reposition the container under the front of
the cylinder block, and unscrew the cylinder
block drain plug (photo). Allow the coolant to
drain into the container.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•55
8A.17B Tightening the coolant pump bolts8A.17A Fitting the coolant pump to the
999 cc engineFig. 13.28 Sectional view of the coolant
pump on the 999 and 1108 cc engines
(Sec 8A)
8C.9 Cylinder block drain plug8C.8 Bottom hose connection to the
radiator8B.4 Topping up the expansion tank with
antifreeze on the 1301 cc engine
13

35Clean the mating faces of the thermostat
cover and cylinder head, and use a new
gasket when refitting the cover.
36Refill the cooling system as described
earlier in this Section.
Coolant pump -
removal and refittingÁ
Note: A new coolant pump gasket must be
used on refitting. If the pump is found to be
worn it must be renewed as a complete unit as
dismantling and repair is not possible.
37Disconnect the battery negative lead.
38Drain the cooling system as described
earlier in this Section.
39Remove the coolant/alternator drivebelt
as described in the next sub-Section.
40Unscrew the four coolant pump securing
bolts, noting that two of the bolts also secure
the alternator adjuster bracket, and withdraw
the pump from the housing (photo). Recover
the gasket.
41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Use a new gasket between the pump and
the housing.
43Refit and tension the coolant
pump/alternator drivebelt as described in the
next sub-Section.
44On completion, refill the cooling system
as described earlier in this Section.
Coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt - checking,
renewal and tensioning
Á
45At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this manual (as applicable), the drivebelt
should be checked and if necessary
re-tensioned.
46Access to the drivebelt is made from the
underside of the car on the right-hand side.
Loosen off the front right-hand roadwheel
retaining bolts, then raise and support the car
on axle stands at the front. Remove the front
roadwheel on the right-hand side.
47Remove the underwing shield from the
right-hand wheel arch by drifting the
compression pins out from the retaining
clips. Prise free the clips and remove the
shield.
48Additional, though somewhat restricted,
access can be obtained from above by
removing the air cleaner unit on the non-Turbo
ie-engine (photo).
49Check the full length of the drivebelt for
cracks and deterioration. It will be necessary
to turn the engine in order to check the
portions of the drivebelt in contact with the
pulleys. If a drivebelt is unserviceable, renew it
as follows (photo).
50Loosen the alternator mounting and
adjuster nuts and bolts and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.51Slip the drivebelt from the alternator,
coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys.
52Fit the new drivebelt around the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the specified belt tension
is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
prevent damage. It is helpful to partially
tighten the adjuster nut before tensioning the
drivebelt (photo).
53When the specified tension has been
achieved, tighten the mounting and adjuster
nuts and bolts (photo).
PART D: HEATER UNIT- LATER
MODELS
Heater unit -
removal and refitting
Á
1The heater unit is removed complete with
the facia/control panel. Commence by
draining the cooling system as described
previously in this Section.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Refer to Section 15 of this Chapter for
details and remove the ashtray/cigar lighter
and the auxiliary control panel.
4Undo the upper screw retaining the heater
unit to the facia (see Fig. 13.31).
5Remove the radio from the central facia.
6Undo the retaining screw on each side at
the front of the gear lever console. Prise free
13•58 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.31 Removing the heater unit-to-
facia upper retaining screw (Sec 8D)8C.53 Tightening the alternator adjuster
nut8C.52 Fitting a new coolant
pump/alternator drivebelt around the
pulleys
8C.49 Alternator/water pump drivebelt and
tensioner viewed from the right-hand
wheel arch8C.48 Top side view of water pump,
alternator and drivebelt8C.40 Coolant pump/alternator bracket
bolt removal

solenoid-operated type, actuated from the
ECU.
7Fuel pressure is regulated according to inlet
manifold vacuum pressure by a fuel pressure
regulator. Excess unpressurised fuel is
returned to the fuel tank.
Airflow meter
8This component measures the quantity of
air drawn into the engine, and converts this
into an electric signal which is transmitted to
the ECU.
9The intake air exerts a force on the floating
plate (1) (Fig. 13.39) which is connected to a
potentiometer (2).
10A compensating butterfly valve (3)
compensates for any reflex pressure which
may occur, and is subject to the braking effect
of the damper chamber (4).
11The idle mixture (air/fuel ratio) is altered by
means of the screw (8), which alters the
cross-section of the bypass channel (7).
12An integral-type temperature sensor is
fitted, the resistance value of which decreases
as the temperature of the intake air increases.
This facility is used to correct the mixture
strength within a pre-determined air
temperature range.
Throttle valve housing
13The housing incorporates a conventional
butterfly-type throttle valve, actuated by
cables and rods from the accelerator pedal.
14The idle bypass channel (2) (Fig. 13.40) is
fitted with an adjustment screw (3) to vary the
idle speed.
15The other screw (4) and locknut are usedto set the closing position of the throttle valve
plate.
Supplementary air valve
16This controls the air volume requirement
during cold starting. Essentially, the valve is an
electrically-heated bi-metallic strip, which rotates
the plate (4) (Fig. 13.41) to vary the volume of air
being drawn in through the aperture (1),
according to the temperature of the engine.
17The requirement for additional air during
cold starting is to dilute the additional fuel,
which is injected and controlled by the ECU
as a result of monitoring the engine coolant
temperature sensor.
Electrical control circuit
18The main components of the system are
the ECU and the system control relay. The
relay incorporates a fuel cut-off facility, which
cuts off the fuel supply in the event of engine
failure, the vehicle turning over, or a fuel line
breaking. The relay energises the following
electrical components.
19Coolant temperature sensor, which
signals the coolant temperature to the ECU.
20Throttle position switch, which signals the
ECU when the throttle valve plate is closed, in
order to actuate the deceleration fuel cut-off
device at speeds above 2500 rpm.21The switch also signals the ECU at full
throttle, so that the mixture can be enriched to
cope with full-power requirements.
22The system control relay also monitors the
engine speed directly from the ignition coil
primary winding.
MaintenanceÁ
23Regularly check the security of all system
hoses, wiring connections and plugs.
24At the intervals specified in Section 3,
renew the fuel filter and the air cleaner element.
Fuel filter - renewalÁ
25This is located within the engine
compartment just above the timing belt cover.
Disconnect the fuel hoses, but be prepared
for loss of fuel (photo).
26When fitting the new filter, make sure that
the arrow stamped on it is pointing towards
the fuel injector rail.
Air cleaner element -
renewal
Á
27Prise back the toggle-type clips and take
off the air cleaner lid. Remove and discard the
element, and wipe any dirt from the inside of
the casing (photos).
28Fit the new element and replace the lid.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•67
Fig. 13.41 Supplementary air valve -
1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9C)
1 Aperture
2 Bi-metallic strip
3 Passage
4 Rotating plate (closed position)Fig. 13.40 Sectional view of throttle valve
housing - 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9C)
1 Butterfly-type throttle valve
2 Idle bypass channel
3 Idle speed adjusting screw
4 Throttle valve plate setting screwFig. 13.39 Sectional view of airflow meter -
1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9C)
1 Floating plate
2 Potentiometer
3 Compensating butterfly valve
4 Damper chamber
6 Spring
7 Bypass channel
8 CO adjusting screw
9 Tamperproof plug
Terminals
5, 7, 8, Potentiometer
9 Air temperature sensor
E Sealed (not to be touched)
9C.27A Removing the air cleaner lid9C.25 Secondary fuel filter
13

Vacuum servo unit and master
cylinder - general
54Access to the vacuum servo unit and the
master cylinder can only be obtained after the
cooling system expansion tank has been
released and moved aside (photo).
Antiskid system - description
55This system is available as an option on
the Turbo ie models only.
56The purpose of the system is to prevent
the wheel(s) locking during heavy brake
applications. This is achieved by automatic
release of the brake on a roadwheel which is
about to lock up, after which the brake is
re-applied. This cycle is carried out many
times per second under heavy braking,
retaining full steering control to avoid any
hazards.
57The main components of the system are
shown in Fig. 13.102. The control module
processes the signals received from the
sensors, and compares them with
deceleration values of the roadwheel and the
slip values of the tyre, which are stored in the
module memory.
58When reference values are exceeded and
wheel lock is imminent, the control module
signals the pressure modulators, which in turn
decrease the brake hydraulic pressure.
59Vehicle road speeds are also taken into
account by the module’s electronic circuits.
60In order to retain optimum system
performance, the tyres and wheels shouldalways be of the type originally fitted by the
vehicle manufacturer.
61Maintenance of the system should be
limited to checking the security of all electrical
and hydraulic connections. Individual compo-
nents are not repairable, and must be
renewed complete if faulty.15 Electrical system
Alternator (999 and
1108 cc models) -
removal and refitting
Á
1To remove the alternator from 999 cc
engine models, disconnect the leads from the
terminals on its rear face.
2Extract the screws and remove the plastic
drivebelt guard.
3Slacken the mounting and adjuster bolts,
push the alternator in towards the engine and
remove the drivebelt.
4Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts,
and withdraw the alternator downwards
through the gap between the right-hand
driveshaft and the engine sump pan (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal; re-tension
the drivebelt.
Alternator (later models) -
removal and refitting Á
6Disconnect the battery negative lead.
7Loosen off the right-hand front roadwheelbolts, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. Remove the
right-hand roadwheel.
8Remove the wheel arch underwing shield
by driving the compression pins from the
centre of the retaining clips (using a 2 mm
drift), then prise free the panel retaining clips
and remove the shield. Keep the pins and
clips in a safe place and renew any that may
have been damaged during removal (photo).
9Detach the wiring connector from the
alternator.
10Release the alternator mounting and belt
adjuster link bolts, and take off the drivebelt.
11Take out the alternator top and bottom
mounting bolts.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•103
15.4 Removing the alternator from the
999 cc engine
Fig. 13.102 Braking system on Turbo ie Antiskid models (Sec 14)
13
1 Electronic control unit
(ECU)
2 Roadwheel speed
sensors
3 Pressure modulators
4 Vacuum reservoir
5 Check valve
6 Air cleaner
7 Load proportioning
(pressure regulating)
valves
8 Vacuum switch
9 ECU relay
10 System fault warning
lamp relay
11 System fault warning
lamp
12 Brake stop lamp
switch

15.23A Starter motor removal from the
1301 cc Turbo ie engine15.20 Starter motor removal from the
999 cc engine
12Disconnect the air cooling hose from the
rear cover of the alternator, and then unscrew
the fixing nuts and take off the rear cover with
hose spout. Mark the position of the cover on
the alternator before removing it, so that the
spout will be correctly positioned when
refitted (photos).
13Unbolt the driveshaft bearing
support/alternator bracket from the engine
crankcase, and swivel the support
downwards to provide space for withdrawal of
the alternator (photo).
14Withdraw the alternator from under the
right-hand front wing (photo).
15Refit in the reverse order of removal. Refit
the drivebelt and ensure correct engagement
with the pulleys, then set the drivebelt tension
and tighten the alternator retaining nuts.Alternator brushes -
renewal#
16Depending on model, the brush holder is
secured by two screws, which should be ex-
tracted and the brush holder removed (photos).
17New brushes and the holder are supplied
as an assembly.
Starter motor
(999 cc models) -
removal and refitting
Á
18To remove the starter motor from 999 and
1108 cc models, first disconnect the leads
from the starter motor terminals.
19Release the washer fluid reservoir flexible
bag from the engine compartment rear
bulkhead and move it to the left-hand side.
20Unscrew the starter motor mountingbolts, withdraw the starter from the flywheel
bellhousing, and then lift it out of the left-hand
side of the engine compartment (photo).
21Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Starter motor (1301 cc Turbo ie,
1372 cc ie,
1372 cc Turbo ie) -
removal and refitting
Á
22Disconnect the battery. Working from
under the front end of the car, unscrew the
starter motor mounting bolts and disconnect
the electrical leads.
23Withdraw the starter motor downwards. On
Turbo models, there is just enough clearance, if
the oil cooler hose and the oil pressure switch
lead are deflected carefully aside (photos).
24Refit by reversing the removal operations.
13•104 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.16B Removing the alternator brush
holder
15.16A Extracting the alternator brush
holder screw15.14 Withdrawing the alternator15.13 Driveshaft bracket swivelled
downwards
15.12B Alternator rear cover and fixing nut15.12A Alternator air cooling hose15.8 Remove the wheel arch lower guard
panel for access to the alternator

REF•2MOT Test Checks
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

REF•4MOT Test Checks
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allowthe engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM

Engine fails to turn when starter
operated
m mFlat battery (recharge use jump leads or
push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose or broken
m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or
broken
m mIgnition/starter switch faulty
m mMajor mechanical failure (seizure)
m mStarter or solenoid internal fault (see
Chapter 12)
Starter motor turns engine slowly
m mPartially discharged battery (recharge, use
jump leads, or push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose
m mStarter motor internal fault (see Chapter 9)
Starter motor spins without
turning engine
m mFlywheel gear teeth damaged or worn
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose
Engine turns normally but fails to
start
m mDamp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap
(crank engine and check for spark)
m mNo fuel in tank (check for delivery at
carburettor) m mExcessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient
choke (cold engine)
m mFouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
(remove, clean and regap)
m mOther ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (see Chapter 1)
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)
Engine fires but will not run
m
mInsufficient choke (cold engine)
m mAir leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold
m mFuel starvation (see Chapter 3)
m mIgnition fault (see Chapter 4)
Engine will not start
REF•10Fault Finding
Spares and tool kit
Most vehicles are supplied only with
sufficient tools for wheel changing; the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit detailed
in Tools and working facilities,with the
addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient
for those repairs that most motorists would
consider attempting at the roadside. In
addition a few items which can be fitted
without too much trouble in the event of a
breakdown should be carried. Experience and
available space will modify the list below, but
the following may save having to call on
professional assistance:
m mSpark plugs, clean and correctly gapped
m mHT lead and plug cap – long enough to
reach the plug furthest from the distributor
m mDistributor rotor, condenser and contact
breaker points (where applicable)m mDrivebelt(s) — emergency type may
suffice
m mSpare fuses
m mSet of principal light bulbs
m mTin of radiator sealer and hose bandage
m mExhaust bandage
m mRoll of insulating tape
m mLength of soft iron wire
m mLength of electrical flex
m mTorch or inspection lamp (can double as
test lamp)
m mBattery jump leads
m mTow-rope
m mIgnition waterproofing aerosol
m mLitre of engine oil
m mSealed can of hydraulic fluid
m mEmergency windscreen
m mWormdrive clips
m mTube of filler pasteIf spare fuel is carried, a can designed for
the purpose should be used to minimise risks
of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit
and a warning triangle, whilst not at present
compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible
items to carry in addition to the above. When
touring abroad it may be advisable to carry
additional spares which, even if you cannot fit
them yourself, could save having to wait while
parts are obtained. The items below may be
worth considering:
m mClutch and throttle cables
m mCylinder head gasket
m mAlternator brushes
m mTyre valve core
One of the motoring organisations will be
able to advise on availability of fuel, etc, in
foreign countries.
A simple test lamp is useful for checking
electrical faultsCarrying a few spares may save you a long walk!