1983 FIAT UNO belt

tighten the sprocket bolt to the specified
torque (photos).
17Refit the clutch to the flywheel asdescribed in Chapter 5. Make sure that the
driven plate is centralised.
18Fit the cylinder head.
19Refit the coolant pump. A conventional
gasket is not used at the joint face, but apply
a continuous bead of RTV silicone instant
gasket 3.0 mm in diameter to the pump
mating surface. Allow at least one hour for
curing before permitting coolant to contact it.
20Fit the timing belt rear cover, then the
timing belt tensioner and lock in its retracted
position (photo).
21Fit and tension the timing belt as
described in sub-Section B.
22Bolt on the crankshaft pulley (photo).
23Refit the alternator and drivebelt (photo).
24Refit the engine oil dipstick.
25Using a new gasket, bolt on the inletmanifold, tightening the nuts to the specified
torque (photos).
26Refit the carburettor, or throttle body, as
appropriate.
27Fit the fuel pump, insulator block and
actuating rod, if applicable. Make sure that a
new gasket is placed on each side of the
pump insulator block.
28Using a new gasket, bolt on the
thermostat housing.
29Oil the sealing ring of a new oil filter
cartridge and screw it into position using hand
pressure only (photo).
30Refit the coolant distribution pipe to the
rear of the coolant pump. Use a new seal
(photo).
31Using a new gasket, bolt on the exhaust
manifold (photo).
13•32 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
5D.31 Exhaust manifold5D.30 Coolant distribution pipe5D.29 Oil filter cartridge and mounting
base
5D.25B Fitting the inlet manifold5D.25A Inlet manifold gasket5D.23 Alternator and drivebelt
5D.22 Crankshaft pulley installation
5D.20 Fitting the timing belt rear cover5D.16B Tightening the crankshaft sprocket
bolt5D.16A Crankshaft sprocket showing
integral key

32Fit the hot air collector plate for the air
cleaner (photo).
33Refer to Section 10 and fit the distributor.
34Bolt on the timing belt cover.
35Fit the camshaft cover, using a new
gasket unless the original one is in perfect
condition.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting#
36Locate the engine in an upright position
on wooden blocks to allow for the greater
depth of the transmission flywheel housing
when it is joined to the engine.
37Make sure that the clutch driven plate has
been centralised, offer the transmission to the
engine and locate the flywheel housing on the
single stud and dowels.
38Tighten the connecting bolts to specifiedtorque, having located the lifting eye (photo).
39Bolt on the starter motor.
40Refit the cover plate to the flywheel
housing, but do not insert the lower bolts at
this stage as they retain the support bracket
for the gearchange rod.
41The engine and transmission are now
ready for refitting. The operations are a direct
reversal of the operations described earlier,
but observe the following points.
42Have the engine/transmission perfectly
horizontal and suspended on the hoist.
43Lower it into position very slowly until it is
possible to engage the driveshaft inboard
joints with the transmission.
44Continue lowering until the driveshafts
can be fully engaged and the mountings
reconnected. Remove the hoist.
45Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque. Note the method shown for
connecting the gearchange rod ball socket
using pliers (photo).
46Refill the engine with oil and coolant and
replenish the transmission oil.
Initial start-up after major
overhaul
47Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45.
6 Engine-
1301 cc Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1This engine is similar in design to the
1301 cc engine described in Chapter 1, but
the fuel and ignition systems are different, and
a turbocharger, oil cooler and intercooler are
fitted.
2Many dimensions and tolerances have
been altered for this engine, and reference
should be made to the Specifications at the
beginning of this Supplement.
3Operations which differ from those
described in Chapter 1 are given in the
following sub-Sections.
Lubrication system - description
4The lubrication system differs from the
non-Turbo 1301 cc engine in the following
respects.
5An oil cooler is fitted, which comprises a
matrix with inlet and outlet hoses connected
to the oil filter cartridge mounting base.
6A thermostatic control switch is fitted,
which diverts the oil flow through the matrix
only at oil temperatures above 84ºC (183ºF).
Note that a faulty switch will require renewal
of the complete oil filter mounting base.
7Special oil spray nozzles are located in the
crankcase main bearing webs, to cool the
underside of the pistons.
8The ball-type valves in the nozzles open
when the engine oil pressure reaches 1.2 bars
(17.4 lbf/in
2).
9An oil pressure sender unit is screwed into
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•33
5D.45 Connecting ball socket type
gearchange rod5D.38 Lifting eye on flywheel housing
flange5D.32 Air cleaner hot air collector plate
Fig. 13.10 Cutaway view of the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6A)
13

the crankcase to operate the oil pressure
gauge. In addition, a low oil pressure switch
screwed into the camshaft oil gallery actuates
a warning light on the instrument panel in theevent of the pressure dropping dangerously
low (photo).
10Oil supply/return ducts provide the
turbocharger lubrication.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Camshaft and camshaft
carrier - removal and
refitting
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
1Disconnect the battery, negative lead first.
2Disconnect its leads and unbolt the
distributor from the end of the camshaft, and
place it to one side.
3Disconnect the air intake hose from the
throttle valve housing.
4Disconnect the short throttle control cable
from its sector.
5Remove the throttle cable support bracket.
6Disconnect the earth leads from the
camshaft cover.
7Refer to Section 9, Part C of this
Supplement and remove the following
components.
Supplementary air valve
Inlet manifold with fuel pressure regulator
and excess pressure safety switch
Injector cooling duct
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the
Microplex ignition anti-knock sensor.
9Carry out the operations described in
Chapter 1, Section 27, paragraphs 4 to 12.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, referring
to Section 28 of Chapter 1 for the timing belt
refitting procedure, and to Chapter 1, Sec-
tion 27, paragraphs 15 to 18.
Cylinder head -
removal and refitting#
11Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 4 to 9 in the preceding
sub-Section, then refer to Chapter 1, Section
29, but ignore all references to the
carburettor.
12Note the distributor mounting cover.
13Four additional cylinder head bolts are
used on these engines, adjacent to the spark
plugs (photo). Note that their tightening torque
differs from the other cylinder head bolts - see
Specifications. These four bolts are tightened
13•34 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
1 Oil pick-up strainer
2 Oil pump
3 Oil pressure relief valve
4 Oil filter cartridge
5 Main oil gallery6 Camshaft oil feed
7 Low oil pressure switch
8 Engine oil cooler
9 Filter mounting base
10 Turbocharger oil feed11 Turbocharger oil return
12 Oil pressure sender unit
13 Oil temperature sender
unit
14 Piston oil spray nozzle
Fig. 13.12 Piston oil spray nozzle locations - 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6A)
Letters denote cylinder bore grade
Fig. 13.11 1301 cc Turbo ie engine lubrication system (Sec 6A)
6A.9 Oil pressure sender unit

separately, after the ten main bolts (see
Fig. 13.13).
Piston rings
14The piston rings comprise two
compression rings marked TOP, and an oil
control ring.
15Cross-sections and fitting details are
shown in Fig. 13.14.
Engine mountings - renewal
16The operations are essentially as
described in Section 33 of Chapter 1, but note
the design and fixings of the individual
mountings used on the turbocharged engine
(photos).
Timing belt - renewal#
17The operations described in Chapter 1,
Section 28 generally apply, but the following
differences should be noted.18Remove the engine compartment
right-hand shield. This is secured by plastic
clips. To remove a clip, push out its centre
pin.
19The TDC sensor must be unbolted to
provide room to remove and refit the timing
belt, which can be carried out without
having to remove the crankshaft pulley
(photos).
20The belt tensioner on later versions
does not incorporate a spring, but is of
eccentric centre bolt hole type. Have the
pulley bolt released, and tension the belt by
turning the pulley using a pin wrench or
circlip pliers in the two holes provided.
Keep the tension applied while the lockbolt
is tightened. Turn the crankshaft through
two complete turns, and then check the belt
tension. With moderate finger and thumb
pressure, the belt should just twist through90º when gripped at the mid-point of its
longest run (photo). Note: This procedure
serves only as a rough guide to setting the
belt tension - having it checked by a FIAT
dealer at the earliest opportunity is
recommended.
Oil pump drivegear cover plate
21Due to the fact that the distributor is
driven from the end of the camshaft, the oil
pump gear does not have an extension to
drive the distributor, which would be the case
if it was mounted on the crankcase.
22The crankcase aperture is therefore
covered by a plate and gasket, together with a
wiring clip (photo).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•35
6B.13 Two of the four additional cylinder
head bolts (arrowed)
Fig. 13.14 Piston ring arrangement on the
1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6B)Fig. 13.13 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence on the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 6B)
6B.22 Distributor drive hole cover plate
(arrowed)6B.20 Belt tensioner pulley locknut
(arrowed)6B.19B Removing the timing belt
6B.19A Removing the TDC sensor6B.16B Engine/transmission right-hand
mounting6B.16A Engine/transmission centre
mounting
13

Initial start-up after major
overhaul
28Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45, but note
that an oil pressure gauge is fitted to indicate
oil pressure.
29Check the ignition static timing as
described in Section 10.
30Check the engine idle speed and CO level
as described in Section 9.
7 Engine-
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc
Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1The 1372 cc engine is similar in design to
the OHC engine fitted to the FIAT Tipo
variants. The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line,
overhead camshaft type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle.
2The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to the rear (flywheel
end) main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
3The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally split shell-type
big-end bearings. The pistons are attached to
the connecting rods by fully-floating gudgeon
pins which are secured by circlips. The
aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three
piston rings: two compression rings and an oil
control ring.
4The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the valves via bucket and shim
type cam followers. The camshaft is located in
a separate housing on top of the cylinder
head.
5The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by double valve springs, and operate
in guides pressed into the cylinder head.
6The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the oil pump.
7Lubrication is by means of a gear type
pump which draws oil through a strainer
located in the sump, and forces it through a
full-flow filter into the engine oil galleries fromwhere it is distributed to the crankshaft,
camshaft and auxiliary shaft. The big-end
bearings are supplied with oil via internal
drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of
the pistons are cooled by oil spray nozzles
located in each main bearing location in the
crankcase.
8A crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn via an oil separator into the air cleaner,
from where they are drawn into the inlet
manifold and re-burnt with fresh air/fuel
mixture.
9The 1372 cc ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
Mono-Jetronic single point fuel injection (SPi)
system. Whilst the higher performance
1372 cc Turbo ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
L3.1 (L3.2 from 1992) Jetronic multi-point
injection (MPi) system and turbocharger with
intercooler and oil cooling. The L3.2 system
models are fitted with catalytic converters.
Maintenanceª
10At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this Manual, carry out the following tasks.
11Check the engine oil level as follows. With
the vehicle parked on level ground, and with
the engine having been stopped for a few
minutes, withdraw the oil level dipstick, wipe it
on a clean rag, and re-insert it fully. Withdraw
the dipstick again and read off the oil level
relative to the MAX and MIN marks. The oil
level should be between the marks. If the level
is at or below the MIN mark, top up through
the filler on the camshaft cover without delay
(photo). The quantity of oil required to raise
the level from MIN to MAX on the dipstick is
approximately 1.0 litre (1.8 pints). Do not
overfill.
12Renew the engine oil and filter as
described in Section 2 of Chapter 1 (photos).
13Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances as described in Part B of this
Section.
14Inspect the engine for signs of oil, coolant
or fuel leaks and rectify as necessary.
15Inspect the crankcase ventilation hose for
blockage or damage. Clean or renew as
necessary.
16Check the condition and tension of thetiming belt as described in Part B of this
Section.
17Renew the timing belt as described in
Part B of this Section.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment#
1It is important to ensure that the valve
clearances are set correctly, as incorrect
clearances will result in incorrect valve timing
thus affecting engine performance.
2The clearances must be checked and
adjusted with the engine cold.
3On the ie engine, refer to Section 9 in this
Chapter for details and remove the air cleaner
unit.
4On the ie engine disconnect the crankcase
ventilation hose from the injector unit and
position the hose out of the way.
5On Turbo ie engines, loosen off the clips
and remove the air hose to the inlet manifold
(above the camshaft cover).
6On Turbo ie engines, disconnect the
accelerator cable from the throttle housing
and the support bracket on the camshaft
cover.
7Unscrew the securing nuts and washers
and remove the camshaft cover, noting that
on later models two of the nuts also secure
the hose clip assembly. Recover the gasket.
8Numbering from the front (timing belt) end
of the engine, the exhaust valves are 1, 4, 5
and 8, and the inlet valves are 2, 3, 6 and 7.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•37
7A.12B Engine oil filter removal using a
strap wrench - 1372 cc engine7A.12A Engine sump drain plug - 1372 cc
engine7A.11 Topping up the engine oil level -
1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.15 Engine oil level dipstick location
and level markings on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7A)
13

9Turn the engine clockwise using a suitable
socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the
exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder (valve No 1) is
fully closed; ie the cam lobe is pointing
directly upwards. Alternatively, the engine can
be turned by jacking up one front corner of
the vehicle and supporting it securely on an
axle stand (apply the handbrake and chock
the diagonally-opposite rear wheel before
jacking), engaging top gear and turning the
raised roadwheel in the forward direction of
travel. In both cases, it will be easier to turn
the engine if the spark plugs are removed, but
if this is done, take care not to allow dirt or
other foreign matter to enter the spark plug
holes.
10Insert a feeler gauge of the correct
thickness between the cam follower shim and
the heel of the No 1 cam lobe (photo). If
necessary, increase or reduce the thickness
of the feeler gauge until it is a firm sliding fit.
Record the thickness of the feeler gauge,
which will represent the valve clearance for
this particular valve.
11Turn the crankshaft, and repeat the
procedure for the remaining valves, recording
their respective clearances. Note that the
clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs.
12If a clearance is incorrect, the relevant
cam follower shim must be removed, and a
thicker or thinner shim must be fitted to
achieve the correct clearance. To remove a
shim proceed as follows.
13Turn the crankshaft until the relevant cam
lobe is pointing directly upwards.
14The cam follower must now be depressed
in order to extract the shim. FIAT special tool
No 1860642000 is available for this purpose,
but alternatively a suitable tool can be
improvised (photo). The tool should locate on
the rim of the cam follower, leaving enough
room for the shim to be prised out by means
of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower
rim. Depress the cam follower by turning the
crankshaft as described previously until the
relevant cam lobe is pointing directly
downwards, then fit the tool between the
camshaft and the edge of the cam follower to
retain the cam follower in the depressed
position.
15Ensure that the tool is securely located, asthere is a risk of personal injury if the tool is
dislodged whilst the cam follower is
depressed, then turn the crankshaft until the
relevant cam lobe is pointing directly
upwards, leaving sufficient room to extract
the shim (photo). A pair of angle-nosed pliers
will greatly ease removal of the shim.
16Once the shim has been extracted,
establish its thickness. The thickness in mm
should be stamped into the face of the shim,
although it is possible for wear to obliterate
the number, in which case the use of a metric
micrometer is the only way to accurately
establish the thickness.
17Refer to the clearance recorded for the
valve concerned. If the clearance recorded
was larger than that specified, a thicker shim
must be fitted, and if the clearance recorded
was smaller than that specified, a thinner shim
must be fitted. The required thickness of shim
can be
calculated as follows.
Sample calculation - clearance too large:
Desired clearance (A) 0.40 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.45 mm
Difference (B - A) + 0.05 mm
Original shim thickness 3.40 mm
Required shim thickness 3.40 + 0.05 =
3.45 mm
Sample calculation - clearance too small:
Desired clearance (A) 0.50 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.35 mm
Difference (B - A) 0.15 mm
Original shim thickness 4.55 mm
Required shim thickness 4.55 - 0.15 =
4.40 mm
18Shims are available in thicknesses from
3.20 to 4.70 mm, in steps of 0.05 mm. Note
that if several shims have to be changed, they
can often be interchanged, thus avoiding the
need by buy more new shims than are
necessary.
19The shims should be fitted to the cam
followers with the stamped thickness marking
against the face of the cam follower.
20After fitting a shim, rotate the crankshaft
as described previously until the relevant cam
lobe is pointing directly downwards (resting
on the shim), then carefully remove the tool
used to retain the follower in the depressed
position.21Re-check each relevant valve clearance
after fitting the shim.
22On completion, where applicable, lower
the vehicle to the ground.
23Refit the camshaft cover, using a new
gasket.
24On the ie engine, reconnect the hoses and
refit the air cleaner unit.
25On the Turbo ie engine, reconnect the air
hose and the accelerator cable.
Timing belt tensioner
and sprockets -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The timing belt must be renewed after
removal: never refit a used drivebelt. When
fitting the new timing belt it will need to be
correctly tensioned and to achieve this the
manufacturers specify the use of special tools
1860745200 (18760745300 on Turbo model)
and 1860745100. If these tools are not readily
available, an approximate setting can be
made, but in this instance it is strongly
recommended that the car be taken to a FIAT
dealer at the earliest opportunity to have the
belt tension checked and correctly set using
the recommended tools.
26Loosen off the front right-hand side wheel
bolts, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. Remove the front
right-hand roadwheel.
27Remove the underwing shield from the
right-hand wheel arch to allow access to the
lower timing cover and alternator fixings (photo).
13•38 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.27 Underwing shield (A) showing
central compression pin (B) and retaining
clip (C). Drive pin through clip to remove
7B.15 Removing a shim from a cam
follower7B.14 Special tool for retaining cam
follower in depressed position7B.10 Measuring a valve clearance
(No 2 valve shown)

28Loosen off the retaining clips and detach
the air intake pipe from the air filter.
29Slide back the inspection cover from the
upper end of the timing cover (photo).
30Turn the engine over by hand to bring the
TDC timing marks of the flywheel-
to-bellhousing and the camshaft sprocket
-to-rear cover projection into alignment. The
crankshaft pulley also has a TDC timing mark
and this should be positioned as shown
(photos).
31Loosen off the retaining and adjustment
strap fixings, then pivot the alternator towards
the engine.
32Unscrew the upper retaining bolts
securing the timing cover.
33Loosen off the nut securing the alternator
and its drivebelt relay, then detach and
remove the alternator drivebelt.
34Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
pulley nut. Where the engine is in the car,
prevent the crankshaft from turning by
engaging top gear and having an assistant
apply the brake pedal hard. Unscrew and
remove the flywheel housing lower cover bolts
and remove the cover. The flywheel ring gear
can now be jammed with a suitable lever or
implement to prevent the crankshaft from
rotating. It should be noted that the pulley nut
is tightened to a considerable torque and a
strong socket, together with an L-bar and
extension tube, will therefore be required to
loosen and remove it (photo). Take care not todamage the gearbox/flywheel housing by
jamming the flywheel at a weak point.
35Withdraw the crankshaft pulley (photo).
36Unscrew and remove the lower retaining
bolts and remove the timing cover upwards
from the vehicle.
37Check that the previously mentioned
timing marks are still in alignment. Loosen off
the timing belt tensioner nut, then with the
tension released, withdraw the timing belt
from the sprockets.
38To remove the drivebelt tensioner, undo
the securing nut and withdraw the tensioner
pulley unit noting that it is in three sections
(photos).
39If desired, the sprockets and the rear
timing belt cover can be removed as follows,
otherwise proceed to paragraph 49.40To remove the camshaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
camshaft stationary as the sprocket bolt is
loosened. A suitable tool can be improvised
as shown in photo 7B.48 using two pieces of
steel bar joined together by a pivot bolt, with
suitable bolts through the ends of the steel
bars to engage with the holes in the sprocket.
41Unscrew the sprocket bolt, then recover
the plain washer, and the thrust washer which
is bonded into a plastic sleeve (photo).
42The sprocket can now be withdrawn from
the end of the camshaft. If the sprocket is
tight, carefully lever it from the camshaft using
two screwdrivers, but take care not to
damage the rear timing belt cover.
43The crankshaft sprocket can be removed
by simply pulling it from the end of the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•39
7B.30B Crankshaft pulley and timing cover
timing marks7B.30A Camshaft sprocket timing notch
aligned with timing (TDC) pointer in timing
case7B.29 Slide back inspection cover in the
timing case
7B.41 Removing the crankshaft sprocket
bolt, plain washer and thrust washer7B.38B The three sections of the timing
belt tensioner
7B.35 Crankshaft pulley removal7B.34 Crankshaft pulley nut removal
7B.38A Timing belt tensioner removal
13

crankshaft after the pulley securing nut has
been removed. Recover the Woodruff key
from the end of the crankshaft if it is loose
(photo).
44To remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
sprocket stationary as the securing bolt is
loosened (the bolt is extremely tight). In the
workshop, a “scissors” style tool was
improvised, using two pieces of steel bar
joined together by a pivot bolt, with their ends
bent through a right-angle to engage securely
between the teeth on the sprocket - see photo
7B.46.
45Unscrew the sprocket bolt, and recover
the washer, then withdraw the sprocket from
the end of the auxiliary shaft (photo). If thesprocket is tight, carefully lever it from the
shaft using two screwdrivers.
46Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, making
sure that the lug on the end of the shaft
engages with the hole in the sprocket, then
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque (ensure that the washer is in place
under the bolt head). Prevent the sprocket
from turning as during removal (photo).
47Where applicable, refit the Woodruff key
to the end of the crankshaft, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket with the flanged side
against the oil seal housing (photo).
48Refit the camshaft sprocket to the end of
the camshaft, making sure that the lug on the
end of the shaft engages with the hole in the
sprocket, then refit the thrust washer, plainwasher, and bolt, and tighten the bolt to the
specified torque. Prevent the camshaft from
turning as during removal (photo).
49Refit the belt tensioner pulley assembly,
ensuring that the washer is in place under the
securing nut, but do not fully tighten the nut at
this stage.
50Before refitting the new timing belt into
position, first ensure that the crankshaft and
camshaft sprocket timing marks are still
aligned as described in paragraph 30 (photo).
51If the new timing belt has two timing marks
on its outer face they must align with the
corresponding marks on the crankshaft and
camshaft sprockets. Do not distort or bend the
belt any more than is necessary during its
fitting or its structural fibres may be damaged.
52Refit the belt around the sprockets and
the tensioner pulley, starting at the crankshaft
sprocket. One of the timing index marks must
align with the scribed mark on the lower edge
of the crankshaft sprocket (opposite the
Woodruff key) whilst the second mark must
align with the timing marks of the camshaft
and rear timing belt cover (photos).
53With the belt fitted over the sprockets and
correctly aligned, temporarily refit the
crankshaft pulley nut (tightening it to its full
torque wrench setting) and then adjust the
timing belt tension.
Approximate setting
54The timing belt tension can be checked
approximately by twisting it between the
13•40 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.52B Timing belt mark aligned with
scribed mark on crankshaft sprocket
(arrowed)7B.52A Timing belt refitted over the
sprockets and tensioner7B.50 Crankshaft at TDC with key and
timing mark aligned (arrowed)
7B.48 Tightening the crankshaft sprocket
bolt7B.47 Refitting the crankshaft sprocket
7B.46 Tightening the auxiliary shaft
sprocket bolt7B.45 Withdrawing the auxiliary shaft
sprocket7B.43 Remove the crankshaft Woodruff
key if it is loose