1983 FIAT UNO maintenance schedule

Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR FIAT UNO
IntroductionPage 0•4
Safety First!Page 0•5
General dimensions, weights and capacities Page0•6
Roadside Repairs
Jump startingPage0•7
Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page0•8
Identifying leaksPage0•9
Routine Maintenance and Servicing
Maintenance schedule (also see Chapter 13)Page0•10
Recommended Lubricants and Fluids Page0•13
Conversion factorsPage0•14

air temperature sensor. Undo the retaining
screw and remove the sensor from the
injector unit (photo).
50Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Fuel injector -
removal and refittingÁ
51Depressurise the fuel system as
described previously, then disconnect the
battery negative lead.
52Remove the air cleaner unit.
53Release the injector feed wiring mutliplug
and detach it from the injector.
54Bend over the locking tabs retaining the
injector screws, then undo and remove the
screws. Withdraw the injector retaining collar,
then carefully withdraw the injector (noting its
orientation) followed by its seal.
55Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Always use new seals in the unit and the
retaining collar and lightly lubricate them with
clean engine oil prior to assembly. Take care
not to damage the seals when fitting and also
when the injector is fitted; check that it
engages correctly.
Fuel injection electronic
control unit (ECU) -
removal and refitting
Á
56The control unit is located under the facia
on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Commence
by disconnecting the battery negative lead.
57To gain access to the control unit, detach
and remove the trim panel from the underside
of the facia on the driver’s side of the car.
58Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
control unit, then undo the retaining screw
and remove the unit from the car (photos).
59Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Inlet manifold -
removal and refittingÁ
60Remove the fuel injector unit as described
previously.
61Drain the cooling system as described in
Section 8 of this Chapter.
62Detach the coolant hose and coolant
temperature sensor from the inlet manifold.
63Unbolt and remove the accelerator
cable/throttle linkage support bracket from
the top of the inlet manifold. The cable can be
left attached to the bracket.64Detach the brake servo vacuum hose
from the connector on the manifold.
65Unscrew and remove the inlet manifold
securing bolts and nuts and remove the
manifold from the cylinder head. As they are
removed, note the location of the fastenings
and their spacers.
66Remove the gasket and clean the mating
faces of the manifold and the cylinder head.
The gasket must be renewed when refitting
the manifold.
67Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the spacers are
correctly located (where applicable) and
tighten the retaining bolts and nuts to the
specified torque settings.
Exhaust manifold -
removal and refittingÁ
68Remove the inlet manifold as described
previously (1372 cc models only).
69Disconnect the Lambda sensor lead
(photo).
70Raise and support the car at the front end
on axle stands to allow sufficient clearance to
work underneath the car and disconnect the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
71Straighten the tab washers, then unscrew
and remove the exhaust downpipe-
to-manifold retaining nuts (photo). Detach the
downpipe from the manifold. Support the
downpipe so that the Lambda sensor will not
get knocked and/or damaged.72Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head
securing bolts/nuts and withdraw and remove
the manifold and heat shield.
73Remove the gasket and clean the mating
faces of the manifold, cylinder head and
downpipe flange. The gasket must be
renewed when refitting the manifold.
74Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Tighten the retaining bolts/nuts to
the specified torque setting.
Catalytic converter -
general information
75The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car
equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
maintenance schedule - particularly, en-
sure that the air cleaner filter element the
fuel filter and the spark plugs are renewed
at the correct interval - if the intake air/fuel
mixture is allowed to become too rich due
to neglect, the unburned surplus will enter
and burn in the catalytic converter,
overheating the element and eventually
destroying the converter.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•77
9D.58B . . . for access to the ECU retaining
screw (arrowed)9D.58A Detach the multiplug (arrowed) . . .9D.49 Fuel injector unit sensor retaining
screw (1). Also shown is the intake air
temperature sensor (2)
9D.71 Exhaust downpipe to manifold
flange connection showing retaining nuts
and locktabs9D.69 Lambda sensor in exhaust
downpipe
13

protective shield to gain access to the pump
which is located forward of the fuel tank.
60Disconnect the fuel hoses and the wiring
connector, release the retaining clamp and
withdraw the pump unit.
Refitting all components
61Refitting of all components is a reversal of
the removal procedure, but note the following
specific points.
62Ensure that all components are clean prior
to refitting and where applicable, use new
seals and gaskets. Ensure that all connectionsare securely and correctly made.
63Do not reconnect the battery until all the
refitting procedures are complete.
64When the engine is restarted, check
around the fuel injection system for any signs
of leakage from the fuel supply and return
components.
Lambda sensor - general
65The sensor is screwed into the exhaust in
front of the catalytic converter.
66A faulty sensor can damage the converter,
therefore it must be checked regularly (see
Maintenance schedule, Section 3) by a dealer
using special equipment.
67Use of leaded fuel will also damage this
sensor, as well the converter.
PART F:
TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM
Description
1A turbocharger is fitted to certain 1301 and
1372 cc ie engines. The accompanying
photographs are all taken from a 1301 cc
engine, but the system is much the same for
both engine types.
2The turbocharger is basically a shaft with an
exhaust gas-driven turbine at one end, and a
compressor located at the other end which
draws in outside air and forces it into the inlet
manifold. By compressing the incoming air, a
larger charge can be let into each cylinder,
and greater power output is achieved than
with normal aspiration.3Lubrication of the turbocharger shaft
bearings is provided by pressurised engine
oil, and the unit is cooled by the coolant from
the engine cooling system.
4A wastegate valve is incorporated in the
turbocharger to divert excessive exhaust gas
pressure from the turbine into the exhaust
pipe at a predetermined pressure level.
5A maximum air pressure switch is located in
the inlet manifold. Its purpose is to cut the
ignition system off when the turbocharger
system pressure continues to increase
beyond 0.86 bars (12.5 lbf/in
2). This would
otherwise damage the engine, due to high
combustion temperatures and pressures
(photo).
6An intercooler (heat exchanger) is located
between the turbocharger and the inlet
manifold. Its function is to cool the inlet
charge, thus increasing its density, to provide
greater power output.
7A mechanical bypass valve is located
between the low-pressure pipe (downstream)
and the high-pressure pipe (upstream), which
reduces the inherent noise from the
turbocharger when the accelerator pedal is
released (photo).
8None of the components of the
turbocharger system can be repaired and
parts are not available. Any fault will therefore
mean that the turbocharger or associated
assemblies will have to be renewed complete.
Precautions
9The following precautions should be
observed when using a turbocharged vehicle.
a) Never operate the engine without the air
cleaner fitted.
b) Never switch off the engine before its
speed has dropped to idling. If the car
has been driven hard, allow it to idle for a
few minutes before switching off. Failure
to observe these recommendations can
cause damage to the turbocharger due to
lack of lubrication.
10Always keep the fuel injection system
well-maintained and tuned. Operating on a
weak mixture can cause overheating of the
turbocharger.
Turbocharger
(1301 cc ie engine) -
removal and refitting
Á
11Disconnect and remove the airflow meter
as described in Section 9C.
12Disconnect the spiral-wound hose from
the fuel injector cooling duct.
13Remove the turbocharger air hoses from
within the left-hand side of the engine
compartment. Note particularly their routing.
14Remove the throttle housing/inlet
manifold as described in Section 9C, also the
fuel rail, injectors and inlet manifold branch
pipe stubs. Remove the alternator heat shield
(photo).
15Remove the exhaust heat shield.
16Unscrew the turbocharger-to-exhaust
pipe flange nuts (photos).
13•82 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9F.16A Turbocharger-to-exhaust flange
nut (arrowed)9F.14 Alternator heat shield
9F.7 Bypass valve9F.5 Maximum air pressure switch
(arrowed)
Fig. 13.63 Fuel pump and sender unit
location on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)
1 Fuel level gauge sender connector
2 Fuel pump connector
3 Fuel return hose
4 Fuel supply hose

Fault FindingREF•9
REF
Introduction
The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component
reliability is such that, provided those items
subject to wear or deterioration are inspected
or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden
failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not
usually just happen as a result of sudden
failure, but develop over a period of time.
Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles.
Those components which do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily
carried in the vehicle.
With any fault finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or
replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have
spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault –
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual noises or smells, etc – and remember
that failure of components such as fuses or
spark plugs may only be pointers to some
underlying fault.
The pages which follow here are intended
to help in cases of failure to start or
breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault
Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter
which should be consulted if the preliminary
checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault,
certain basic principles apply. These are as
follows:Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of
being sure that you know what the symptoms
are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for
someone else who may not have described it
very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example,
if the vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in the
tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge
either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look
for loose or broken wires before digging out
the test gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom.
Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged
one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if
the underlying cause is not attended to,the
new battery will go the same way. Similarly,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set
will get you moving again, but remember that
the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an
incorrect grade of plug) will have to be
established and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted.
Particularly, don’t forget that a ‘new’
component may itself be defective (especially
if it’s been rattling round in the boot for
months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they
are new or recently fitted. When you do finally
diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably
realise that all the evidence was there from
the start.
Electrical faults
Electrical faults can be more puzzling than
straightforward mechanical failures, but they
are no less susceptible to logical analysis if
the basic principles of operation are
understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in
extremely unfavourable conditions – heat,
vibration and chemical attack and the first
things to look for are loose or corroded
connections and broken or chafed wires,especially where the wires pass through holes
in the bodywork or are subject to vibration.
All metal-bodied vehicles in current
production have one pole of the battery
‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle
bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it
is the negative (–) terminal. The various
electrical components – motors, bulb holders,
etc – are also connected to earth, either by
means of a lead or directly by their mountings.
Electric current flows through the component
and then back to the battery via the
bodywork. If the component mounting is
loose or corroded, or if a good path back to
the battery is not available, the circuit will be
incomplete and malfunction will result. The
engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by
means of flexible metal straps to the body or
subframe; if these straps are loose or missing,
starter motor, generator and ignition trouble
may result.
Assuming the earth return to be
satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either
to component malfunction or to defects in the
current supply. Individual components are
dealt with in Chapter 9. If supply wires are
broken or cracked internally this results in an
open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for
this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily
with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or
suitable connector at each end. Alternatively,
a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the
presence of supply voltage at various points
along the wire and the break can be thus
isolated.
If a bare portion of a live wire touches the
bodywork or other earthed metal part, the
electricity will take the low-resistance path
thus formed back to the battery: this is known
as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will
blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause
burning of the insulation (and possibly further
short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is
inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing
fuses with silver foil or wire.