1983 FIAT UNO tow

push it towards the windscreen; the ball
socket will release (photo).5Extract the screws from the mounting plate
(photo).
6When refitting the mirror, engage the front
of the socket on the ball and then twist the
mirror rearwards and upwards.
Exterior
7On models without remotely-controlled
type exterior mirrors, the ball-jointed mirror is
held in position by the two self-tapping
screws which secure the triangular trim plate
inside the car (photos).
8To dismantle the mirror, extract the balljoint
fixing screw, but take care as considerable
force is exerted by the interior coil spring
(photo).
Door armrestÁ
9A redesigned armrest is used on somemodels. This is simply secured by two
self-tapping screws (photo).
Tailgate (Turbo ie model) -
component
removal and refitting
Á
10The tailgate on these models is of plastic
injection-moulded type, with a bonded
window glass.
11Renewal of the glass or repair of the
tailgate should be entrusted to your FIAT
dealer or a specialist repairer, due to the need
for special products and techniques.
12To remove the tailgate lock and handle,
open the tailgate and extract the lock handle
screws.
13Prise off the link rod socket from the
ball-pin (photos). Unbolt and remove the
handle and lock.
14A remote type of tailgate release is fitted,
with a control handle located by the driver’s
seat. Access to the handle can be obtained by
removing the seat and sill trim, and peeling
back the carpet.
15If a new cable is to be fitted, disconnect it
from the tailgate latch, tape the new cable to
the old one, and draw it carefully around the
side panel and sill trim (photo).
16To remove the tailgate wiper motor, first
take off the wiper arm and blade.
17Extract the plastic clips and take
off the wiper motor protective cover.
Disconnect, unbolt, and remove the wiper
motor (photo).
13•112 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
17.17 Tailgate wiper motor17.15 Tailgate release cable (arrowed)17.13 Tailgate handle link rod (arrowed)
17.9 Door armrest17.8 Extracting the mirror balljoint screw
17.7B Withdrawing the exterior mirror
17.7A Exterior mirror trim plate17.5 Interior mirror mounting plate17.4 Interior mirror base

REF•8General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of legis-
lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

Engine fails to turn when starter
operated
m mFlat battery (recharge use jump leads or
push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose or broken
m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or
broken
m mIgnition/starter switch faulty
m mMajor mechanical failure (seizure)
m mStarter or solenoid internal fault (see
Chapter 12)
Starter motor turns engine slowly
m mPartially discharged battery (recharge, use
jump leads, or push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose
m mStarter motor internal fault (see Chapter 9)
Starter motor spins without
turning engine
m mFlywheel gear teeth damaged or worn
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose
Engine turns normally but fails to
start
m mDamp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap
(crank engine and check for spark)
m mNo fuel in tank (check for delivery at
carburettor) m mExcessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient
choke (cold engine)
m mFouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
(remove, clean and regap)
m mOther ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (see Chapter 1)
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)
Engine fires but will not run
m
mInsufficient choke (cold engine)
m mAir leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold
m mFuel starvation (see Chapter 3)
m mIgnition fault (see Chapter 4)
Engine will not start
REF•10Fault Finding
Spares and tool kit
Most vehicles are supplied only with
sufficient tools for wheel changing; the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit detailed
in Tools and working facilities,with the
addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient
for those repairs that most motorists would
consider attempting at the roadside. In
addition a few items which can be fitted
without too much trouble in the event of a
breakdown should be carried. Experience and
available space will modify the list below, but
the following may save having to call on
professional assistance:
m mSpark plugs, clean and correctly gapped
m mHT lead and plug cap – long enough to
reach the plug furthest from the distributor
m mDistributor rotor, condenser and contact
breaker points (where applicable)m mDrivebelt(s) — emergency type may
suffice
m mSpare fuses
m mSet of principal light bulbs
m mTin of radiator sealer and hose bandage
m mExhaust bandage
m mRoll of insulating tape
m mLength of soft iron wire
m mLength of electrical flex
m mTorch or inspection lamp (can double as
test lamp)
m mBattery jump leads
m mTow-rope
m mIgnition waterproofing aerosol
m mLitre of engine oil
m mSealed can of hydraulic fluid
m mEmergency windscreen
m mWormdrive clips
m mTube of filler pasteIf spare fuel is carried, a can designed for
the purpose should be used to minimise risks
of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit
and a warning triangle, whilst not at present
compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible
items to carry in addition to the above. When
touring abroad it may be advisable to carry
additional spares which, even if you cannot fit
them yourself, could save having to wait while
parts are obtained. The items below may be
worth considering:
m mClutch and throttle cables
m mCylinder head gasket
m mAlternator brushes
m mTyre valve core
One of the motoring organisations will be
able to advise on availability of fuel, etc, in
foreign countries.
A simple test lamp is useful for checking
electrical faultsCarrying a few spares may save you a long walk!

S
Safety first -0•5
Safety pressure switch - 13•90
Scalding -0•5
Scratches in bodywork - 12•2
Screw threads and fastenings - REF•8
Seat belts - 12•10, REF•2
Seats - 12•9, REF•2
Servo unit -8•8, 13•103
Shock absorbers - 11•4, REF•2, REF•3
Shoes -8•3
Side light -9•7
Side repeater lamp -9•7
Spares - REF•10, REF•12
Spark plugs -4•7, 13•92
Speedometer -9•8
Spotlamp - 13•108
Springs - 11•3, 11•4, REF•3
Starter motor -9•4, 13•104, 13•105
Starter fault -1•35, 9•14, 13•92, REF•10
Steering-9•5, 10•1et seq, 13•106, REF•1,
REF•2, REF•3
Steering fault finding - 10•4
Stop lamp switch -8•9
Struts - 11•2, 13•111
Sump -1•11, 1•22, 1•26, 1•31, 13•19,
13•24, 13•46, 13•53
Sunroof - 12•12
Supplement: Revisions and information on
later models- 13•1et seq
Supplementary air valve - 13•67, 13•69,
13•71, 13•80
Suspension- 11•1et seq, 13•111, REF•2,
REF•3
Suspension fault finding - 11•6
Switches -2•3, 4•8, 8•9, 9•5, 13•69, 13•72,
13•80, 13•90, 13•106 to 13•109
T
Tailgate -9•6, 12•8, 12•9, 13•112
TDC sensor -4•7, 13•90, 13•91
Thermostat -2•3, 13•54, 13•57
Throttle control linkage - 13•72
Throttle position switch - 13•69, 13•72,
13•80
Throttle valve housing - 13•67, 13•70,
13•80
Tie-rod - 10•2
Timing -4•4, 13•85, 13•91
Timing belt -1•24, 1•29, 1•32, 13•20,
13•30, 13•35, 13•38, 13•53
Timing chain -1•9, 1•19, 1•22
Tools - REF•5, REF•7, REF•8, REF•10
Towing -0•8
Track control arm - 11•4
Trailing arms - 11•5
Transmission-1•13, 1•22, 1•27, 1•32, 6•1
et seq, 13•26, 13•33, 13•36, 13•49,
13•53, 13•94, 13•96
Transmission fault finding -6•4
Transmission oil -0•6, 0•13, 6•1, 13•14,
13•95
Trim panels - 12•5, 13•114
Trip master - 13•108
Tripode joint -7•3
Turbocharger - 13•82, 13•83
Turbocharger fault finding - 13•84
Tyres -7•5, 10•4, 11•6, REF•4
U
Underframe - 12•1
Unleaded fuel - 13•60
Upholstery - 12•2
V
Vacuum sensor - 13•86
Vacuum servo -8•8, 13•103
Valve clearances -1•9, 1•23, 1•32, 13•20,
13•37
Vehicle identification - REF•2, REF•12
Voltage regulator -9•4
W
Washer system -9•10, 13•110
Water pump -2•4, 13•55, 13•58
Weights -0•6, 13•17
Wheel alignment - 10•3
Wheel bearings -7•3, 7•4, REF•3
Wheel changing -0•8
Wheel cylinder -8•4
Wheels -7•5, REF•4
Window regulator - 12•7
Windows -9•11, 12•6, 12•9, 13•109,
13•113
Windscreen - 12•8, REF•1
Wings - 12•5
Wiper blade and arm -9•9
Wiper motor -9•9, 9•10, 13•109, 13•110
Wiper fault -9•14
Wiring diagrams- 14•1et seq
Working facilities - REF•7
IndexREF•19
REF