1983 FIAT UNO tow

pump jet and give ten full strokes of the
throttle lever, pausing between each stroke to
allow fuel to finish dripping.
8The total volume of fuel collected should be
between 2.5 and 4.5 cc. Adjust the nut on the
pump control and if necessary to increase or
decrease the volume of fuel ejected.
Fast idle adjustment
9With the choke valve plate fully closed, the
throttle valve plate should be open to give a
dimension (X) (Fig. 3.18) of between 0.90 and
1.0 mm (0.035 to 0.039 in). Use a twist drill of
suitable diameter to measure the gap. If
necessary, adjust by means of the screw and
locknut.
Anti-flooding device
10Close the choke valve plate by means of
the control lever. At the same time, push the
lean out valve rod towards the valve.
11There should be a gap (X) (Fig. 3.19)
between the edge of the choke valve plateand the carburettor throat of between 4.75
and 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in). Adjust if
necessary by means of the screw and locknut
on the lean out valve.
11 Carburettors (Weber 32 ICEE/
250 and Solex C32 DISA 14)-
description and adjustment
4
1One of these carburettors is used on
903 cc ES engines. They are very similar to
the Weber 32 ICEV 50/250 and Solex
C32 DISA 11 already described in this
Chapter except that a fuel cut-out solenoid
valve is fitted in association with the Digiplex
ignition system (see Chapters 4 and 9).
2The solenoid valve cuts off the supply of
fuel to the carburettor whenever the
accelerator pedal is released during overrun
conditions.
3A fuel cut-out device control unit receives
information regarding engine speed from the
static ignition control unit.
4A throttle butterfly switch relays informationthat the accelerator pedal is in the released
state.
5At certain minimum idle speeds during
deceleration, the fuel cut-out solenoid valve is
re-energised so that engine idling is
maintained without the tendency to cut out.
6The Solex type control unit varies the fuel
cut-out point according to the deceleration
value.Fault testing
7Should a fault develop, connect a test lamp
between the fuel cut-out solenoid switch and
a good earth.
8Connect a reliable tachometer to the engine
in accordance with the maker’s instructions.
9Start the engine and raise its speed to
between 3000 and 4000 rev/min, then fully
release the accelerator pedal.
10The test lamp should only go out during
the period when the accelerator pedal is
released. Should the test lamp remain on all
the time, or never come on, check the throttle
switch earth and the solenoid switch
connections.
11Disconnect the multi-plug from the control
unit. Switch on the ignition and check that a
test lamp connected between contact 7 of the
multi-plug and earth will illuminate. If it does
not, there is an open circuit from connection
15/54 of the fuel cut-off switch.
12Switch off the ignition and check for
continuity between contact 3 of the multiplug
and earth. An ohmmeter will be required for
this test.
13If there is no continuity (ohmmeter shows
infinity), check all the system earth
connections. Also check that the wiring plug
under the control unit is properly connected.
14Finally, check the engine speed signal. To
do this, a tachometer must be connected to
the single socket under the control unit within
the engine compartment.
15If the tachometer registers correctly then
this confirms that the electronic ignition
Fuel system 3•9
Fig. 3.18 Fast idle adjustment diagram (Solex C32 DISA 11)
(Sec 10)
X = 0.90 to 1.0 mm (0.035 to 0.039 in)Fig. 3.19 Anti-flooding device adjustment diagram
(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)
X = 4.75 to 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in)
Fig. 3.21 Sectional view of fuel cut-off
switch (Solex C32 DISA 14) (Sec 11)
Fig. 3.20 Moving lean out valve rod
(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)
X = 4.75 to 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in)
3

5 Condenser (capacitor)-
removal, testing and refitting
1
The purpose of the condenser (sometimes
known as the capacitor) is to ensure that when
the contact breaker points open there is no
sparking across them which would weaken
the spark and cause rapid deterioration of the
points.
The condenser is fitted in parallel with the
contact breaker points. If it develops a short
circuit it will cause ignition failure as the points
will be prevented from interrupting the low
tension circuit.
1If the engine becomes very difficult to start
(or begins to misfire whilst running) and the
breaker points show signs of excessive
burning, suspect the condenser has failed
with open circuit. A test can be made by
separating the points by hand with the ignition
switched on. If this is accompanied by a
bright spark at the contact points, it is
indicative that the condenser has failed.
2Without special test equipment, the only
sure way to diagnose condenser trouble is to
replace a suspected unit with a new one and
note if there is any improvement.
3To remove the condenser from the
distributor, take out the screw which secures
it to the distributor body and disconnect its
leads from the terminals.
4When fitting the condenser, it is vital to
ensure that the fixing screw is secure. The
lead must be secure on the terminal with no
chance of short circuiting.
6 Distributor-
removal and refitting
3
1Remove the spark plug from No. 4 cylinder
and then turn the crankshaft either by
applying a spanner to the pulley nut or by
jacking up a front wheel, engaging top gear
and turning the wheel in the forward direction
of travel.
2Place a finger over the plug hole and feel
the compression being generated as the
piston rises up the cylinder bore.
3Alternatively, if the rocker cover is off,
check that the valves on No. 1 cylinder are
closed.
4Continue turning the crankshaft until the
flywheel and flywheel housing (BTDC) ignition
timing marks are in alignment. Number 4
piston is now in firing position.
5Remove the distributor cap and place it to
one side complete with high tension leads.
6Disconnect the distributor vacuum hose
and low tension lead (photo).
7Mark the distributor pedestal mounting
plinth in relation to the crankcase. Also mark
the contact end of the rotor in relation to the
rim of the distributor body.8Unbolt the clamp plate and withdraw the
distributor.
9Refit by having No. 4 piston at its firing
position and the distributor rotor and pedestal
marks aligned, then push the distributor into
position, mating it to the splined driveshaft.
10If a new distributor is being fitted then of
course alignment marks will not be available
to facilitate installation in which case, hold the
unit over its mounting hole and observe the
following.
903 cc engine: Distributor cap high tension
lead sockets pointing towards alternator and
at 90º to centre line of rocker cover. Contact
end of rotor arm pointing towards No. 4
contact in distributor cap (when fitted).
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine: Distributor
vacuum unit pointing downwards at 135º to
rear edge of timing belt cover. Contact end of
rotor arm pointing towards No. 4 contact in
distributor cap (when fitted).
11Tighten the distributor clamp bolt,
reconnect the vacuum hose and the low
tension leads. Refit the distributor cap. Screw
in the spark plug.
12Check the ignition timing as described in
Section 4.
7 Distributor (mechanical
breaker type)- overhaul
3
Ducellier
1The cap must have no flaws or cracks and
the HT terminal contacts should not be
severely corroded. The centre spring-loaded
carbon contact is renewable. If in any doubt
about the cap, buy a new one.
2The rotor deteriorates minimally, but with
age the metal conductor tip may corrode. It
should not be cracked or chipped and the
metal conductor must not be loose. If in
doubt, renew it. Always fit a new rotor if fitting
a new cap.
3With the distributor removed as described
in the preceding Section, take off the rotor
and contact breaker.4To remove the contact breaker movable
arm, extract the clip and take off the washer
from the top of the pivot post.
5Extract the screw and remove the fixed
contact arm.
6Carefully record the setting of the advance
toothed segment and then remove the spring
clip and vacuum capsule fixing screws and
withdraw the capsule with link rod.
7Pick out the lubrication pad from the recess
in the top of the distributor shaft. Unscrew the
screw now exposed.
8Mark the relationship of the cam to the
counterweight pins and then remove the cam
assembly.
9There is no way to test the bob weight
springs other than by checking the
performance of the distributor on special test
equipment, so if in doubt, fit new springs
anyway. If the springs are loose where they
loop over the posts, it is more than possible
that the post grooves are worn. In this case,
the various parts which include the shaft will
need renewal. Wear to this extent would mean
that a new distributor is probably the best
solution in the long run. Be sure to make note
of the engine number and any serial number
on the distributor when ordering.
10If the mainshaft is slack in its bushes or
the cam on the spindle, allowing sideways
play, it means that the contact points gap
setting can only be a compromise; the cam
position relative to the cam follower on the
moving point arm is not constant. It is not
practical to re-bush the distributor body
unless you have a friend who can bore and
bush it for you. The shaft can be removed by
driving out the roll pin from the retaining collar
at the bottom. (The collar also acts as an oil
slinger to prevent excess engine oil creeping
up the shaft.)
Marelli
11With the distributor removed from the
engine, take off the spark shield and rotor.
12Remove the contact breaker and carrier
as described in Section 2.
13Refer to paragraphs 9 and 10 for details of
counterweight springs and shaft bushes
(photo).
Ignition system 4•5
6.6 Distributor LT connection4.5 Distributor clamp plate nut
4

into its cylinder to accommodate them. This
will cause the fluid level to rise in the reservoir.
Anticipate this by syphoning some out
beforehand, but take care not to let it drip
onto the paintwork - it acts as an effective
paint stripperl
8Refit the anti-rattle springs, the pads
(friction lining-to-disc), the cylinder body, the
locking blocks and their retaining clips
(photos).
9Refit the roadwheel and apply the footbrake
hard, several times, to bring the pads into
contact with the brake disc.
10Renew the pads on the opposite brake.
The pads should always be renewed in axle
sets.
11Top up the fluid reservoir.
4 Rear brake shoes-
inspection and renewal
2
1Jack up the rear of the car and remove the
roadwheels.
2Fully release the handbrake.
3Unscrew and remove the drum securing
bolts. One of these is a long locating spigot
for the roadwheel.
4Pull off the drum. lf it is tight, clean off the
rust at its joint with the hub flange, and apply
a little penetrating fluid. Two bolts may be
screwed into the drum securing bolt holes if
necessary and the drum thus eased off the
hub. The securing bolt holes are tapped for
this purpose.
5Brush away all the dust and dirt from the
shoes and operating mechanism, taking care
not to inhale it.
6The friction linings fitted as original
equipment are of the bonded type and the
rivet heads normally used as a guide to wear
are not, of course, fitted. However, if the
thickness of the friction linings is down to
1.5 mm (0.06 in) or less, the shoes must be
renewed. Always purchase new or factory
relined brake shoes.
7Before removing the brake shoes, note the
way in which the shoes are positioned, with
respect to leading and trailing ends (the end
of the shoe not covered by lining material).Note also into which holes in the shoe web
the return springs are connected. Sketch the
shoes or mark the holes on the new shoes
with quick drying paint if you are doubtful
about remembering (photo).
8Undo the steady springs by depressing and
rotating their caps a quarter turn to disengage
the slot from the pin. On later models a
U-shaped steady spring is used. Depress and
slide it out.
9Rotate the hub until the cut-outs in its rear
flange face are in alignment with the shoe
self-adjusters.
10Pivot the trailing shoe on the self-adjuster
post and disengage the ends of the shoe from
the slot in the wheel cylinder tappet and from
the lower anchor block.
11Work the shoe up the self-adjuster pivot
post until the self-adjuster boss enters the
cut-out in the hub flange. The shoe can now
be withdrawn (photo).
12Once off the self-adjuster post, the
pull-off spring tension is eased, as the shoe
can move towards the other, so the springs
can be unhooked.
13Remove the leading shoe in a similar way.
14The new shoes will already be fitted with
new self-adjusters.
15Fit the new shoes to their self-adjuster
posts, making sure that the handbrake shoe
lever is correctly located. Engage the ends of
the shoes.
16Using a wooden or plastic-faced mallet,
tap the shoes inwards against the friction of
their self-adjuster coil springs. This will havethe effect of reducing the overall diameter of
the shoes to facilitate fitting of the shoe return
springs and to allow the brake drum to slide
over them.
17Using pliers, reconnect the upper (longer)
and lower shoe return springs.
18Hold the steady pins in position from the
rear of the backplate. Fit the small coil springs
and the retaining cap, again using pliers to
grip the cap and to depress and turn it to
engage the pin. On later models fit the
U-shaped springs.
19Before refitting the drum, clean it out and
examine it for grooves or scoring (refer to
Section 8).
20Fit the drum and the roadwheel.
21Apply the brakes two or three times to
position the shoes close to the drum.
22Renew the shoes on the opposite brake in
a similar way.
23The handbrake should be automatically
adjusted by the action of the shoe adjuster. If
the handbrake control lever has excessive
travel, refer to Section 16 for separate
adjusting instructions.
5 Caliper- removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: Purchase a repair kit in advance of
overhaul.
1Jack up the front roadwheel and remove it.
2Brush away all dirt from the caliper
Braking system 8•3
4.11 Rear hub showing cut-outs on rear
face for shoe self-adjuster bosses4.7 Rear brake assembly3.8B Cylinder body located on caliper
bracket
Fig. 8.2 Exploded view of caliper (Sec 5)
8

3 Alternator-
maintenance and precautions
1
To avoid damage to the alternator, the
following precautions should be observed.
1Disconnect the leads from the battery
before connecting a mains charger to the
battery terminals.
2Never stop the engine by pulling off one of
the battery leads.
3Disconnect the battery if electric welding is
to be carried out on the vehicle.
4If using booster cables from another battery
to start the car, make sure that they are
connected positive to positive and negative to
negative.
5Maintenance consists of keeping the
outside of the alternator clean, the electrical
connections secure and the drivebelt correctly
tensioned, see Chapter 2, Section 8.
4 Alternator-
removal and refitting
1
Note: Depending on the model, access to the
alternator from above may be poor in which
case it will be necessary to work from the
underside of the vehicle, through the
right-hand wheel arch (after removing the
roadwheel and the lower undershield). Refer
to Chapter 13 for details.
1Disconnect the leads from the rear of the
alternator.2Release the mounting and adjuster link nuts
and push the alternator as far as it will go in
towards the engine (photos).
3Slip the drivebelt from the pulley.
4Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts
and lift the alternator from the brackets on the
engine. Remove downwards on 1116 cc and
1301 cc models.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tension
the drivebelt as described in Chapter 2,
Section 8.
5 Alternator- overhaul
3
1Overhaul of the alternator should be limited
to renewal of the brushes. If the unit has
covered a high mileage, it will be found moreeconomical to exchange it for a new or
factory-reconditioned one, rather than renew
worn components on the original unit.
Brush renewal
(Marelli alternator)
2Unscrew the nuts and take off the rear cover.
3Unscrew the two small bolts and withdraw
the brush holder (photos).
4Fit the new brush holder which is supplied
complete with brushes, by reversing the
removal operations.
Brush renewal
(Bosch alternator)
5Where applicable, remove the radio
suppression condenser (capacitor) from the
rear end frame (one screw and washer, and a
plug-in connection).
6Undo the two screws which retain the brush
holder to the rear frame of the alternator, then
Electrical system 9•3
5.3A Alternator brush holder bolt4.2B Alternator adjuster bolt4.2A Alternator mounting
Fig. 9.1 Exploded view of typical alternator (Sec 5)
1 Pulley
2 Fan
3 Bolts
4 Washers
5 Drive-end bracket
6 Stator windings
7 Plate screw
8 Diode plate
(rectifier pack)9 Body
10 Brush
11 Spring
12 Brush holder
13 Condenser
14 Screws and
washers
15 Screws and
washers16 Screws and
washers
17 Plug socket
18 Suppressor
19 Shaft nut
20 Spring washer
21 Thrust ring
22 Bearing
23 Retainer plate24 Thrust ring
25 Spring washer
26 Screw and washer
27 Key
28 Rotor
29 Bearing
30 Backing washer
31 Shield (where
applicable)
5.3B Removing alternator brush holder
9

20 Interior lamps-
bulb renewal
1
Courtesy lamp
1The lamp lenses, whether roof or pillar
mounted, are removed by prising off using a
screwdriver inserted under one end (photo).
2The festoon type bulb is pulled from its
spring contacts.
Instrument panel lamps
3Remove the instrument panel hood cover
as described in the next Section. The panel
lighting bulbs may be renewed without further
dismantling, but access to the warning and
indicator bulbs can only be obtained if the
instrument panel is partially withdrawn as
described in the next Section (photo). 4Pull out the appropriate bulbholder and
withdraw the wedge base type bulb.
5Fit the new bulb, the holder, instrument
panel and hood cover.
21 Instrument panel-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument panel hood cover.
The easiest way to do this is to insert the
fingers at the sides, and pull the hood sharply
upwards off its retaining clips.
3Extract the two fixing screws from the
instrument panel and pull it towards you until the
speedometer drive cable can be disconnected
by squeezing its plastic retaining ring (photo).
4Disconnect the wiring plugs and record
their exact locations. 5Remove the instrument panel upwards
(photo).
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
22 Instrument panel-
dismantling
1
1With the instrument panel removed from
the car, individual instruments may be
removed in the following way.
2Pull off the speedometer trip device knob.
3Remove the instrument hood cover by
gently releasing the plastic clips (Fig. 9.4).
4The speedometer is secured by two screws
for its metal casing and one screw for its
plastic casing. Other instruments are held to
the panel by nuts (photo).
5On models equipped with a check control
system (see Section 34), the speedometer
cannot be removed until the control unit has
first been withdrawn.
6On ES versions, the speedometer cannot
be removed until the economy gauge control
unit has been removed.
23 Speedometer drive cable-
renewal
1
1Remove the instrument panel hood cover
as described in Section 21.
2Disconnect the speedometer cable from
the speedometer by squeezing the plastic
retaining ring (photo).
9•8 Electrical system
23.2 Speedometer cable connector at
head22.4 Rear view of instrument panel21.5 Instrument panel and steering wheel
removed
21.3 Removing instrument panel screw21.2 Removing instrument panel hood
cover
Fig. 9.4 Instrument hood cover (1) (Sec 21)20.3 Instrument panel warning lamp20.1 Interior roof lamp withdrawn

27 Tailgate wiper motor-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the blade and arm as previously
described. Unscrew the drive spindle bezel
nut.
2Open the tailgate fully.
3Unclip and remove the wiper motor cover.
4Unscrew the mounting screws, withdraw
the motor and disconnect the wiring plug
(photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
28 Washer system
1
1The washer system for the windscreen and
the tailgate operates from a bag type fluid
reservoir within the engine compartment
(photo).
2The reservoir bag is fitted with two pumps,
one for each system (photo).
3Use screen cleaning fluid mixed in the
recommended proportion in the washer fluid
reservoir and in very cold weather add a small
quantity of methylated spirit.
4To clear a blocked washer jet nozzle or to
adjust the wash jet glass-striking pattern,
insert a pin part way into the jet nozzle.
29 Heated tailgate window-
precautions and repair
2
1The heater element inside the tailgate glass
should be treated with care.
2Clean only with a damp cloth and wipe in
the direction in which the filaments run. Avoid
scratching with rings on the fingers, or by
allowing luggage to rub on the glass. Never
stick adhesive labels over the heater element.
3Should one of the heater filaments be
broken it can be repaired using one of the
special silver paints available, but follow the
manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
30 Radio/cassette- fitting
2
1In-car entertainment equipment is not
provided as standard on the models covered
by this Manual.
2However, the centre console is designed to
receive a radio set after removing the blanking
plate behind which a power lead is already
provided.
3The ignition system and other electrical
components are suppressed during
production of the car and further suppression
should not be required other than earthing the
wiper motor.
Receiver
4Fit the radio/cassette using the installation
kit supplied with the equipment.
5On Comfort models, fit an in-line fuse in the
power feed. On Super models the radio
supply is protected by fuse number 12.
6Make sure that the radio is well earthed to a
metal body component.
Aerial
7The recommended locations for the aerial
are towards the rear of the right-hand front
wing or on the windscreen pillar.
8Fitting instructions for Fiat aerials are
supplied with them, but the following general
advice will help if using non-Fiat equipment.9Motorised automatic aerials rise when the
equipment is switched on and retract at
switch-off. They require more fitting space
and supply leads, and can be a source of
trouble.
10There is no merit in choosing a very long
aerial as, for example, the type about three
metres in length which hooks or clips on to
the rear of the car, since part of this aerial will
inevitably be located in an interference field.
For VHF/FM radios the best length of aerial is
about one metre. Active aerials have a
transistor amplifier mounted at the base and
this serves to boost the received signal. The
aerial rod is sometimes rather shorter than
normal passive types.
11A large loss of signal can occur in the
aerial feeder cable, especially over the Very
High Frequency (VHF) bands. The design of
feeder cable is invariably in the co-axial form,
ie a centre conductor surrounded by a flexible
copper braid forming the outer (earth)
conductor. Between the inner and outer
conductors is an insulator material which can
be in solid or stranded form. Apart from
insulation, its purpose is to maintain the
correct spacing and concentricity. Loss of
signal occurs in this insulator, the loss usually
being greater in a poor quality cable. The
quality of cable used is reflected in the price
of the aerial with the attached feeder cable.
12The capacitance of the feeder should be
within the range 65 to 75 picofarads (pF)
approximately (95 to 100 pF for Japanese and
American equipment), otherwise the
adjustment of the car radio aerial trimmer may
not be possible. An extension cable is
necessary for a long run between aerial and
receiver. If this adds capacitance in excess of
the above limits, a connector containing a
series capacitor will be required, or an
extension which is labelled as
“capacity-compensated”.
13Fitting the aerial will normally involve
making a 7/8 in (22 mm) diameter hole in the
bodywork, but read the instructions that come
with the aerial kit. Once the hole position has
been selected, use a centre punch to guide
the drill. Use sticky masking tape around the
area for this helps with marking out and drill
location, and gives protection to the
9•10 Electrical system
Fig. 9.8 Radio housing and power lead (A)
(Sec 30)
28.2 Washer pumps28.1 Washer fluid reservoir27.4 Tailgate wiper motor

Note: Before diagnosing steering faults, be
sure that trouble is not due to incorrect or
uneven tyre pressures, inappropriate tyre
combinations, or braking system or
suspension defects.
Car pulls to one side
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Vibration at steering wheel
m
mRoadwheels out of balance or loose
m mTyre damage
m mLoose driveshaft-to-hub nuts
Car wanders
m
mPlay in steering gear
m mWear in steering balljoints
Heavy or stiff steering
m
mLack of lubricant in steering gear or balljoints
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Play at steering wheel
m
mWear in steering rack or balljoints
m mLoose steering shaft coupling pinch-bolt or
worn splines
m mWorn steering column/shaft universal joints
Rattles from steering
m
mSteering damper defective or in need of
adjustment
m mLoose steering column mounting bolts
m mLoose steering column/shaft coupling
pinch-bolts
m mLoose steering rack housing mounting bolts
m mWorn steering shaft bushes
Excessive or uneven tyre wear
m
mIncorrect steering geometry
m mWorn steering components
m mCollision damage wear. Before considering the steering angles,
check that the tyres are correctly inflated, that
the front wheels are not buckled, the hub
bearings are not worn or incorrectly adjusted
and that the steering linkage is in good order,
without slackness or wear at the joints.
2Wheel alignment consists of four factors:
Camber, is the angle at which the road
wheels are set from the vertical when viewed
from the front or rear of the vehicle. Positive
camber is the angle (in degrees) that the wheels
are tilted outwards at the top from the vertical.
Castor, is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
side of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicated
when the steering axis is inclined towards the
rear of the vehicle at its upper end.
Steering axis inclination, is the angle when
viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle
between vertical and an imaginary line drawn
between the upper and lower suspension
strut mountings.
Toe,is the amount by which the distance
between the front inside edges of the
roadwheel rims differs from that between the
rear inside edges.
3If the distance between the front edges is
less than that at the rear, the wheels are said
to toe-in. If the distance between the front
inside edges is greater than that at the rear,
the wheels toe-out.
4Camber and castor are set during
production of the car and are not adjustable.
Any deviation from specification will be due tocollision damage or to gross wear in the
components concerned.
5To check the front wheel alignment, first
make sure that the lengths of both tie-rods are
equal when the steering is in the straight-ahead
position. Measure between the locknut at the
balljoint and the ball cup at the end of the rack
housing by passing a thin rod under the rack of
the gaiter. If adjustment is required, release the
locknut and turn the tie-rod.
6Obtain a tracking gauge. These are
available in various forms from accessory
stores or one can be fabricated from a length
of steel tubing suitably cranked to clear the
sump and bellhousing and having a setscrew
and locknut at one end.
7With the gauge, measure the distance
between the two wheel inner rims (at hub
height) at the rear of the wheel. Push the
vehicle forward to rotate the wheel through
180º (half a turn) and measure the distance
between the wheel inner rims, again at hub
height, at the front of the wheel. This last
measurement should differ from (be less than)
the first by the appropriate toe-in according to
the Specification (see Specifications Section).
8Where the toe-in is found to be incorrect,
release the tie-rod balljoint locknuts and turn
the tie-rods equally. Only turn them a quarter
of a turn at a time before re-checking the
alignment. Viewed from the centre line of the
car, turning the tie-rod clockwise will
decrease the toe-in.
9Make sure that the gaiter outboard clip isreleased otherwise the gaiter will twist as the
tie-rod is rotated.
10Always turn both rods in the same
direction when viewed from the centre line of
the vehicle otherwise the rods will become
unequal in length. This would cause the
steering wheel spoke position to alter and
cause problems on turns with tyre scrubbing.
11On completion, tighten the tie-rod balljoint
locknuts without altering their setting. Check
that the balljoint is at the centre of its arc of
travel and then retighten the gaiter clip.
9 Steering column lock-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the steering wheel and column
shrouds as described in Section 5, also the
steering column combination switch.
2Unscrew and remove the steering column
mounting bolts and lower the column to
expose the lock shear bolts.
3Drill out the bolts or extract them using an
extractor.
4Refer to Chapter 4 for details of separation
of the ignition switch from the lock section.
5When fitting the new lock, tighten the shear
bolts until their heads break off.
6Bolt up the column, fit the combination
switch, shrouds and steering wheel and
tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
10•4 Steering
Fig. 10.9 Steering column lock shear bolts
(arrowed) (Sec 9)
Fig. 10.8 Front wheel alignment diagram
(Sec 8)
X Front dimension Y - X = Toe-in
Y Rear dimension
Fig. 10.7 Castor angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Castor angle (positive)
Fault finding - steering

10 Front wing-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the headlamp and front parking
lamp as described in Chapter 9. 2Withdraw the side repeater lamp and
disconnect the leads.
3Remove the front roadwheel.
4Working under the wing, remove the fixing
screw and withdraw the plastic protective
shield (photos).
5Unscrew the wing lower fixing screws at the
front and rear ends.
6Open the bonnet and support it. Then
unscrew and remove the row of fixing screws
from the inner top edge of the wing.
7The wing joints will have to be cut round
with a sharp knife to release the mastic seal
before the wing can be lifted away.
8Clean the body mating flanges in readiness
for fitting the new wing.
9Apply a bead of mastic to the body flanges
and offer the new wing into position.
10Refit the fixing screws.
11Apply protective coating to the underside
of the wing and refinish the outer surface to
match the bodywork. 12Refit the headlamp, parking lamp and
repeater lamp.
13Fit the under wing shield and the
roadwheel, close the bonnet.
11 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the door and extract the three
armrest fixing screws. Remove the armrest in
a downward direction (photos).
2Remove the screws from the door tidy bin
(photo).
3Push the door remote control escutcheon
rearwards towards the door lock and remove
it (photos).
4Remove the window regulator handle
spring clip. Do this by inserting a length of
wire with a hooked end or by pulling a strip of
Bodywork 12•5
Fig. 12.3 Front bumper (Sec 9)9.1B Front bumper upper fixing screw
11.1B Removing armrest downward11.1A Removing an armrest screw
10.4A Unscrewing wing shield screw
10.4B Removing wing shield
Fig. 12.4 Front bumper upper screws (Sec 9)Fig. 12.5 Front bumper lower screws (Sec 9)
12