1983 FIAT UNO tow

13•18 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or
12 months (whichever comes first)
m mCheck the tyre pressures and their condition
(including the spare)
m mWhere a pad wear warning light is fitted, check its
operation
m mCheck the front brake disc pads for excessive wear
m mCheck the underbody condition (fuel and brakes
pipes, exhaust system, hoses, bushes and gaiters)
m mCheck the condition and tension of drivebelts
m mCheck the engine idle speed and CO emissions
m mCheck the EGR system (If fitted)
m mCheck fluid levels (coolant, brake fluid and
windscreen washer)
m mRenew spark plugs (1372 cc Turbo models)
m mRenew the engine oil and oil filter (non-Turbo
models)
m mCheck the HT leads and connections
m mCheck the condition of all coolant, fuel and
hydraulic hoses and connections
Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or
24 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 9000 mile (15 000 km) or 12 months
service
m mCheck the rear brake disc pads for wear (where
applicable)
m mCheck/adjust the valve clearances
m mCheck and tighten (if necessary), inlet and exhaust
manifolds
m mCheck the clutch adjustment (cable operated
models)
m mRenew the fuel filter (where applicable)
m mRenew the air cleaner element
m mRenew the spark plugs and check the HT leads
and connections (all models)
m mWhere applicable, have the ignition and injection
systems checked (special equipment needed)
m mRenew coolant
m mRenew brake fluid
Every 28 000 miles (45 000 km) or
36 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 9000 mile (15 000 km) or 12 months
service
m mCheck Lambda (oxygen) sensors operation (special
equipment needed)
m mCheck fuel evaporation system (where fitted)
m mCheck the transmission oil level
m mCheck the condition crankcase ventilation system
Every 37 000 miles (60 000 km) or
48 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 18 000 mile (30 000 km) or
24 months service
m mCheck the condition of the rear brake shoe linings
m mCheck the condition of the timing belt
Every 65 000 miles (105 000 km)
m
mRenew the timing belt
Every 74 500 miles (120 000 km)
m
mRenew the manual transmission oil
Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly or
before a long journey
m mProceed as described for the earlier models at the
start of this manual
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
12 months (whichever comes first)
m mRenew the engine oil and oil filter (Turbo models
only)
3 Routine maintenance- all models from June 1991
The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us, for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more
often. We encourage frequent maintenance, since it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven
frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by an authorised
dealer to preserve the factory warranty.

75If the pump is unworn, refit the rear cover
plate and tighten the screws fully.
76Apply air pressure from a tyre pump to the
oil pump oil ducts to clear any sludge or other
material and then prime the pump by pouring
clean engine oil into its intake duct at the
same time turning the oil pump inner gear with
the fingers.
77Lever out the oil seal and drive a new one
squarely into the oil pump casing (photos).
Lubricate the oil seal lips.
78Bolt the pump into position using a new
joint gasket. Note one bolt is longer than the
others (photo).
79Bolt on the oil pick-up assembly using a
new sealing washer.
80Fit the crankshaft sprocket and tighten the
bolt to specified torque.
81Fit and tension the timing belt.
82Fit the sump pan. Screw on a new oil filter
cartridge. Wait for the specified period of time
(one hour) and then fill the engine with oil.
83Run the engine for a few minutes, then
check and top up the oil level.
Pistons/connecting rods -
removal and refitting#
84Remove the sump pan.
85Unbolt and remove the oil pump
pick-up/filter screen assembly.
86The big-end bearing shells can be
renewed without having to remove the
cylinder head if the caps are unbolted and the
piston/connecting rod pushed gently about
one inch up the bore (the crankpin being at its
lowest point). If these shells are worn,however, the main bearing shells will almost
certainly be worn as well, necessitating a
complete overhaul, including crankshaft
removal.
87To remove the piston/connecting rods,
the cylinder head must be removed.
88The big-end caps and their connecting
rods are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the
timing cover end of the engine. The numbers
are located either side of the rod/cap joint on
the engine oil dipstick tube side (photo).
89Turn the crankshaft as necessary to bring
the first connecting rod big-end crankpin to its
lowest point, then unscrew the cap bolts and
remove the cap and shell bearing.
90Push the connecting rod/piston assembly
up the bore and out of the cylinder block.
There is one reservation; if a wear ridge has
developed at the top of the bores, remove this
by careful scraping before trying to remove
the piston/rod assemblies. The ridge will
otherwise prevent removal, or break the
piston rings during the attempt.
91Remove the remaining piston/connecting
rods in a similar way. If the bearing shells are
to be used again, tape them to their
respective caps or rods.
92Removal of the piston rings and
separation of the piston from the connecting
rod is covered in the next sub-Section.
93Fit the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps, ensuring that the recesses into
which the shells seat are clean and dry.
94Check that the piston ring gaps are evenly
spaced at 120º intervals. Liberally oil the rings
and the cylinder bores.95Fit a piston ring clamp to compress the
rings, oiling the rings and the clamp interior
surfaces liberally.
96Insert the first piston/connecting rod into
its cylinder bore. Make sure that the assembly
is the correct one for its particular bore. The
cap and rod matching numbers must be
towards the engine oil dipstick guide tube and
the arrow on the piston crown towards the
timing belt (photo).
97Push the piston into the bore until the
piston ring clamp is against the cylinder block
and then tap the crown of the piston lightly to
push it out of the ring clamp and into the bore
(photo).
98Oil the crankshaft journal and fit the
big-end of the connecting rod to the journal.
Check that the bearing shells are still in
position, then fit the big-end cap and bolts;
check that the cap is the right way round
(photo).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•25
5B.78 Fitting the oil pump5B.77B Using a socket to fit the new oil
pump oil seal5B.77A Removing the oil pump seal
5B.98 Fitting a big-end bearing cap
5B.88 Connecting rod and cap numbers
5B.97 Fitting a piston/connecting rod5B.96 Piston directional arrow
13

99Tighten the big-end bolts to the specified
torque (photo). The correct torque is
important as the bolts have no locking
arrangement. After tightening each big-end,
check that the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
100Repeat the operations on the remaining
piston/rod assemblies.
101Refit the oil pump pick-up assembly
using a new sealing ring.
102Refit the sump pan and the cylinder head
as described in earlier sub-Sections.
103Fill the engine with oil and coolant.
Pistons/connecting rods -
separation and piston
ring renewal
ª
104If the piston/connecting rods have been
removed in order to renew the piston rings,
refer to Chapter 1, Section 18, but note thatthe piston rings should be fitted so that the
word TOP is uppermost.
105If new pistons are to be fitted, it is
recommended that the gudgeon pins are
removed and refitted by a FIAT dealer as the
connecting rods must be carefully heated in
order to be able to push the gudgeon pin out
of the rod small-end, change the piston and
push the pin back into position. Locating the
gudgeon pin will require a special tool. The
gudgeon pin is a sliding fit in the piston but an
interference fit in the connecting rod.
106Refer to Fig. 13.6 for the correct
assembly of the piston and connecting rod.
Engine/transmission mountings
- renewal
107Refer to Chapter 1, Section 33. Three
mountings are used (photos).
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL
AND DISMANTLING
Method of removal - general
1The engine, complete with transmission,
should be removed upwards out of the engine
compartment.
Engine/transmission -
removal and separation #
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
2Mark the position of the hinges on the
underside of the bonnet and then, with the
help of an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts
and lift the bonnet to a safe storage area.
3Drain the coolant; a cylinder block drain
plug is not fitted.
4Drain the engine and transmission oils.
5Disconnect the battery, negative lead first.
6Remove the air filter.
7Disconnect the radiator hoses from the
engine (photos).
13•26 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
5C.7B Radiator hose at thermostat
housing5C.7A Radiator hose connection to coolant
distribution tube5B.107C Right-hand engine mounting
5B.107B Left-hand rear
engine/transmission mounting5B.107A Left-hand front
engine/transmission mounting
Fig. 13.6 Piston/connecting rod correctly
assembled - 999 and 1108 cc engine
(Sec 5B)
1 Piston grade (A) and directional arrow on
piston crown (towards timing belt)
2 Rod/cap matching numbers
3 Gudgeon pin offset in piston (0.9 to 1.1 mm)
Arrow indicates crankshaft rotation direction
Fig. 13.5 Piston ring arrangement on the
999 cc engine (Sec 5B)5B.99 Tightening a big-end cap bolt

28Loosen off the retaining clips and detach
the air intake pipe from the air filter.
29Slide back the inspection cover from the
upper end of the timing cover (photo).
30Turn the engine over by hand to bring the
TDC timing marks of the flywheel-
to-bellhousing and the camshaft sprocket
-to-rear cover projection into alignment. The
crankshaft pulley also has a TDC timing mark
and this should be positioned as shown
(photos).
31Loosen off the retaining and adjustment
strap fixings, then pivot the alternator towards
the engine.
32Unscrew the upper retaining bolts
securing the timing cover.
33Loosen off the nut securing the alternator
and its drivebelt relay, then detach and
remove the alternator drivebelt.
34Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
pulley nut. Where the engine is in the car,
prevent the crankshaft from turning by
engaging top gear and having an assistant
apply the brake pedal hard. Unscrew and
remove the flywheel housing lower cover bolts
and remove the cover. The flywheel ring gear
can now be jammed with a suitable lever or
implement to prevent the crankshaft from
rotating. It should be noted that the pulley nut
is tightened to a considerable torque and a
strong socket, together with an L-bar and
extension tube, will therefore be required to
loosen and remove it (photo). Take care not todamage the gearbox/flywheel housing by
jamming the flywheel at a weak point.
35Withdraw the crankshaft pulley (photo).
36Unscrew and remove the lower retaining
bolts and remove the timing cover upwards
from the vehicle.
37Check that the previously mentioned
timing marks are still in alignment. Loosen off
the timing belt tensioner nut, then with the
tension released, withdraw the timing belt
from the sprockets.
38To remove the drivebelt tensioner, undo
the securing nut and withdraw the tensioner
pulley unit noting that it is in three sections
(photos).
39If desired, the sprockets and the rear
timing belt cover can be removed as follows,
otherwise proceed to paragraph 49.40To remove the camshaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
camshaft stationary as the sprocket bolt is
loosened. A suitable tool can be improvised
as shown in photo 7B.48 using two pieces of
steel bar joined together by a pivot bolt, with
suitable bolts through the ends of the steel
bars to engage with the holes in the sprocket.
41Unscrew the sprocket bolt, then recover
the plain washer, and the thrust washer which
is bonded into a plastic sleeve (photo).
42The sprocket can now be withdrawn from
the end of the camshaft. If the sprocket is
tight, carefully lever it from the camshaft using
two screwdrivers, but take care not to
damage the rear timing belt cover.
43The crankshaft sprocket can be removed
by simply pulling it from the end of the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•39
7B.30B Crankshaft pulley and timing cover
timing marks7B.30A Camshaft sprocket timing notch
aligned with timing (TDC) pointer in timing
case7B.29 Slide back inspection cover in the
timing case
7B.41 Removing the crankshaft sprocket
bolt, plain washer and thrust washer7B.38B The three sections of the timing
belt tensioner
7B.35 Crankshaft pulley removal7B.34 Crankshaft pulley nut removal
7B.38A Timing belt tensioner removal
13

133Drain the engine oil from the sump into a
suitable container. Disconnect the lead from
the engine oil level sensor in the sump.
134Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the bolts retaining the gear linkage mounting
bracket and the clutch housing lower cover
bolts. Remove the cover from the clutch
housing.
135Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts, then lower and remove the sump.
136Unscrew the timing belt rear cover
retaining bolts.
137Move the timing belt rear cover towards
the front of the car to gain access to the
retaining bolt and then unscrew and remove
the three oil seal housing retaining bolts.
Remove the crankshaft front oil seal housing.
138Note the orientation of the seal in its
housing prior to its removal. Support the
underside of the housing and carefully drive
the old oil seal from the housing using a
punch or a tubular drift of suitable diameter.
An alternative method is to punch or drill a
small hole in the face of the oil seal (but take
care not to drill into the housing) and insert a
self-tapping screw into the seal. Withdraw the
seal by gripping the screw with pliers and
pulling the seal from the housing. If necessary,
fit a second screw into the seal on the
opposite side to provide an even pull.
139Clean the mating faces of the housing
and the front of the crankcase using a suitable
scraper.
140Drive or press the new seal into positionin the housing in the reverse order of removal,
but ensure that it is correctly orientated as
noted during removal (photo).
141Refit the oil seal housing with a new
gasket and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting (photos).
142Refit the sump as described later in this
Section using a new gasket. Tighten its
retaining nuts and bolts to the specified
torque. Refit the clutch cover and the gear
linkage mounting bracket.
143Fit the new timing belt, adjust its tension
and refit the crankshaft pulley as described
earlier in this Section.
144Reconnect the remaining components
that were detached during removal in the
reverse order and top up the engine oil level to
complete.
Crankshaft rear oil seal -
removal and renewal#
145If the engine is still in the car, disconnect
the battery negative lead.
146Remove the flywheel as described in the
next sub-Section.
147Punch or drill a small hole in the rear face
of the rear oil seal (but take care not to drill
into the housing) and insert a self-tapping
screw into the seal. Withdraw the seal by
gripping the screw with pliers and pulling it
from the housing. If necessary, fit a second
screw into the seal on the opposite side to
provide an even pull.
148Clean the seal housing, then locate the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•45
Fig. 13.18 Timing belt rear cover bolt
(arrowed) - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)7B.130J Compress spring and refit the split
collets7B.130I . . . and cap
7B.140 Driving a new crankshaft front oil
seal into its housing7B.141B . . . ensuring it is flush with the
face of the cylinder block7B.141A Refit the crankshaft front oil seal
housing . . .
Fig. 13.20 Removing the timing belt rear
cover on the 1372 ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)
Fig. 13.19 Unscrew the bolts at the points
indicated to release the gear linkage
mounting bracket - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7B)
13

necessary renovated as described later in this
Section.
191Commence refitting as follows.
192Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and
big-end caps.
193Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine
oil.
194Fit a ring compressor to No. 1 piston, theninsert the piston and connecting rod into No. 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest point,
drive the piston carefully into the cylinder with
the wooden handle of a hammer (photos).
Leave enough space between the connecting
rod and the crankshaft to allow the bearing
shell to be fitted. The piston must be fitted with
the cut-out in the piston crown on the auxiliary
shaft side of the engine, and the cylinder identi-
fication marking on the connecting rod and
big-end cap on the coolant pump side of the
engine - see Fig. 13.21.
195Slide the appropriate bearing shell into
position in the connecting rod big-end, then
pull the connecting rod firmly into position on
the crankpin (photo).
196Press the appropriate bearing shell into
position in the big-end cap (photo).
197Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end
bearing cap with the cylinder identification
marking on the coolant pump side of the
engine, and tighten the nuts to the specified
torque setting (photos).
198Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
199Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 194
to 198 inclusive on the remaining pistons.
200Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
Pistons/connecting rods -
examination and
renovation
#
201The procedures for inspecting and
renovating the pistons and connecting rod
assemblies are in general the same as thatdescribed for the smaller engines in Sec-
tion 18 of Chapter 1. However, the following
additional points should be noted.
202When renewing a gudgeon pin, first
check the fit in the piston. It should be
possible to fit the gudgeon pin using hand
pressure, but the pin should be a tight enough
fit that it does not drop out under its own
weight. Oversize gudgeon pins are available
as spares if necessary. Use new circlips when
refitting the pistons to the connecting rods.
203Before fitting the pistons to their
connecting rods, weigh each piston and
check that their weights are all within 2.5 g of
each other. If not, the heavier pistons must be
lightened by machining metal from the
underside of the small-end bosses. This
operation must be entrusted to a FIAT dealer
or engine reconditioning specialist.
204The pistons should be fitted to the
connecting rods so that the higher, flat side of
the piston crown is on the side of the
connecting rod with the stamped cylinder
identification number, ie the gudgeon pin is
offset towards the cylinder identification
number see Fig. 13.21.
205The piston rings should be fitted with the
word “TOP” on each ring facing uppermost,
or if no marks are visible, as noted during
removal. If a stepped top compression ring is
being fitted, fit the ring with the smaller
diameter of the step uppermost. The ring end
gaps should be offset 120º from each other.
Use two or three old feeler gauges to assist
13•48 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.197B . . . and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque
Fig. 13.21 Correct orientation of piston
and connecting rod in engine - 1372 cc ie
and Turbo ie engines (Sec 7B)
1 Auxiliary shaft
2 Cylinder identification markings on
connecting rod and big-end cap
Arrow denotes direction of engine rotation
Note offset gudgeon pin
7B.197A . . . then fit the cap . . .7B.196 . . . and big-end bearing cap . . .
7B.195 Assemble the shell bearing to the
connecting rod . . .7B.194B Tapping a piston into its bore7B.194A Fitting a ring compressor to a
piston

fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission and positioned out of the way.
Enlist the aid of an assistant to help steady
and guide the power unit down through the
engine compartment as it is removed, If
available, position a suitable engine trolley or
crawler board under the engine/transmission
so that when lowered, the power unit can be
withdrawn from the front end of the vehicle
and moved to the area where it is to be
cleaned and dismantled.
38Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
withdraw the power unit from under the
vehicle.
39To separate the engine from the
transmission, unbolt and remove the starter
motor, then unscrew the retaining bolts and
withdraw the transmission from the engine. As
it is withdrawn, do not allow the weight of the
engine or transmission to be taken by the
input shaft.
40To remove the clutch unit, refer to
Chapter 5 for details.
1372 cc Turbo ie
engine/transmission -
removal and separation
#
41The engine and transmission removal and
refitting details for Turbo-engined models are
similar to those described for the non-Turbo
models in the previous sub-Section, but the
following differences should be noted.
42To provide access for the disconnection
of the turbo and related components, first
remove the inlet manifold. Removal of the inlet
manifold and the turbocharger is described in
Section 9 of this Chapter.
43The ignition distributor on the Turbo
engine is driven from the auxiliary shaft and is
mounted at the front of the engine, towards
the timing cover end.
44The right-hand driveshaft has a steady
bearing and this will need to be unbolted and
detached.
Engine dismantling - general
45Refer to Chapter 1, Section 14 for details.
Auxiliary shaft - removal,
inspection and refitting #
46Remove the engine and transmission from
the vehicle as described previously in this
Section part.
47Drain the engine oil and remove the sump
as described in Part B of this Section.
48Remove the oil pump as described in Part
B of this Section.
49Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket as described in Part B of this
Section.
50Unscrew the three retaining bolts and
remove the auxiliary shaft cover. Remove the
gasket.
51Withdraw the auxiliary shaft from the
cylinder block.
52Examine the shaft and its bearing bushes
in the cylinder block for signs of excessive
wear and/or damage and renew it if
necessary. Bush renewal is described in
paragraph 79 in this Section.
53The cover gasket and the oil seal should
always be renewed whenever the cover is
removed. To renew the seal, support the
cover on blocks of wood and drive out the old
seal using a suitable drift inserted in the
cut-out in the back of the cover. Clean the
seal location in the housing. Drive the new
seal into place using a suitable metal tube or
socket (photo). The sealing lip must face
towards the cylinder block. Smear the sealing
lips with clean engine oil before installation.
54Commence refitting by lubricating theauxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil,
then insert the shaft into the cylinder block
(photo).
55Refit the auxiliary shaft cover, using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts
(photos).
56Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, timing
belt, cover and crankshaft pulley as described
in Part B of this Section.
57Refit the engine and transmission with
reference to Part D of this Section.
Engine -
complete dismantling#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
58Detach and remove the following ancillary
items. Where applicable, refer to the
appropriate Chapter or Section within this
Chapter for more detailed removal instructions.
Engine oil dipstick
Ignition distributor and HT leads
Fuel pump
Alternator
Oil filter
Oil vapour recovery unit
Inlet and exhaust manifolds and associated
fuel injection components (as applicable)
Clutch unit
59Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the timing cover and drivebelt.
60Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the cylinder head unit.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•51
7C.54 Inserting the auxiliary shaft into the
cylinder block (rear timing belt cover
removed)7C.53 Driving a new oil seal into the
auxiliary shaft cover7C.36C Transmission front mounting
7C.55B . . . and tighten the securing bolts7C.55A Refit the auxiliary shaft cover with
a new gasket . . .
13

61Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the flywheel.
62Refer to the previous sub-Section for
details and remove the auxiliary shaft.
63Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the sump.
64Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the oil pump unit.
65Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the front and rear crankshaft oil
seals.
66Refer to Part B of this Section and remove
the piston/connecting rod assemblies.
67Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the crankshaft and main bearing
assemblies.
Crankshaft and main
bearings - removal#
68Unscrew the securing bolts and remove
the front and rear crankshaft oil seal housings.
Recover the gaskets.
69Check the main bearing caps for identifi-
cation marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them. Normally the
caps have identifying notches cut into their
top face nearest the timing belt end of the
engine, with the exception of No 5 cap
(flywheel end) which has no marking (photo).
70Before removing the crankshaft, check
that the endfloat is within the specified limits.
Ideally a dial gauge should be used, but
alternatively feeler gauges can be used as
follows. Push the crankshaft as far as possible
towards the timing end of the engine, and
using a feeler gauge, measure the gap
between the rear face of the flywheel
mounting flange on the crankshaft and the
outer face of the thrust washer (photo). Now
push the crankshaft as far as possible in the
opposite direction and take the same
measurement again. The difference between
the two measurements is the crankshaft
endfloat. If the endfloat is outside the
specified limits, new thrustwashers will be
required.
71Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells. If
the bearing shells are to be re-used, tape
them to their respective caps.
72Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase.
73Extract the bearing shells from thecrankcase, keeping them identified for
location if they are to be re-used, and recover
the thrust washers from No. 5 main bearing
location.
Engine components -
examination and
renovation
#
74With the engine completely stripped,
clean all the components and examine them
for wear. Each part should be checked and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described elsewhere in this Section. Renew
main and big-end bearing shells as a matter of
course, unless it is known that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
75If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should the component fail at an early
date. Obviously the age and expected life of
the vehicle must influence the standards
applied.
76Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of course. FIAT specify
that the main cylinder head bolts should be
renewed after they have been used (ie
tightened) four times - if in any doubt as to the
number of times the bolts have been used,
renew them in any case as a precaution
against possible failure.
77Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smearthe new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.
78Clean and examine the cylinder block as
described in paragraphs 2 to 7 of Section 18,
Chapter 1.
79If the auxiliary shaft bushes are
excessively worn or are oval, they must be
renewed. When the new bushes are installed,
they may need to be reamed to suit. The
renewal of the auxiliary shaft bushes is
therefore best entrusted to an engine
reconditioner or FIAT dealer. When the
bushes are renewed, ensure that the oil hole
in each bush is aligned with the oil channel in
the cylinder block.
PART D: ENGINE
REASSEMBLY
Reassembly - general
1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 19.
Crankshaft and main
bearings - refitting#
2Ensure that the crankcase and crankshaft
are thoroughly clean, and that the oilways are
clear. If possible, blow through the oil drillings
with compressed air, and inject clean engine
oil into them.
3Unless they are virtually new, the old main
bearing shells should be renewed. Failure to
do so is a false economy.
4If new bearing shells are being fitted, wipe
away all traces of protective grease.
5Note that there is a tag on the back of each
bearing shell, which engages with a groove in
the relevant seat in the crankcase or bearing
cap.
6Wipe clean the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a non-fluffy rag, then lubricate
them and fit the five upper halves of the
bearing shells to their seats. Note that the
centre (No. 3) bearing shell is plain, whereas
all the other shells have oil grooves (photos).
7Fit the thrustwashers to the No. 5 main
bearing shell location, with the grooved side
of each washer facing away from the face of
the cylinder block - ie towards the thrust face
of the crankshaft (photos).
8Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
13•52 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7D.6B . . . all others have oil groove7D.6A No. 3 main bearing shell is plain . . .
7C.70 Measuring crankshaft endfloat using
feeler gauge method7C.69 Identification notches on No. 3 main
bearing cap