1983 FIAT UNO fuse box

16 Engine-
complete dismantling
3
1Unbolt and remove the rocker cover.
2Unscrew the rocker pedestal securing nuts
and lift away the rocker assembly.
3Remove the pushrods, keeping them in
their original fitted order.
4Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 7. Remove the dipstick and guide
tube.5Turn the engine on its side and unbolt and
remove the sump pan.
6Remove the piston/connecting rods as
described in Section 9.
7Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley
nut. To prevent the crankshaft rotating while
this is done, either jam the flywheel ring gear
or place a block between a crankshaft
counterweight and the inside of the
crankcase.
8Unbolt and remove the timing cover.
9Remove the timing chain and sprockets as
described in Section 6. 10Unbolt and remove the oil pump as
described in Section 10.
11Unscrew and remove the camshaft front
bearing lockscrew noting that the chamfer on
the bearing is on the inboard side.
12Withdraw the camshaft, taking great care
not to damage the bearings with the cam
lobes.
13Lift out the cam followers and keep them
in their originally fitted sequence.
14Unbolt and remove the flywheel. Jam the
ring gear teeth to prevent rotation.
15Remove the engine rear plate.
16Turn the cylinder block so that it is
standing upside down.
17Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil
seal carrier. Note the sump fixing studs.
18The main bearing caps should be marked
1, 2 and 3 but if they are not, centre punch
them and note which way round they are
located.
19Unscrew the main bearing cap bolts
progressively.
20Remove the bearing caps and half shells.
If the shell bearings are to be used again,
keep them with their respective caps.
21Note the semi-circular thrust washers on
either side of the centre main bearing which
control crankshaft endfloat.
22Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase.
23Remove the bearing shells from the
crankcase and mark them as to position if
they are to be used again.
17 Cylinder head- dismantling
and decarbonising
4
1The exhaust manifold and rocker gear will
have been removed from the cylinder head
during removal (see Section 7).
2The valves should now be removed using a
universal valve spring compressor.
3Compress the first valve spring and extract
the split cotters.
4Gently release the compressor, take off the
spring retaining cap, the valve spring and the
spring seat. Remove the valve. Keep the valve
with its associated components together and
in numbered sequence so that they can be
returned to their original positions.
5A small box with divisions is useful for this
purpose. Remove and discard the valve stem
oil seals.
6Remove the other valves in a similar way.
7Bearing in mind that the cylinder head is of
1•16 903 cc engine
Fig. 1.23 Timing cover, sump pan and oil seals (Sec 16)
Fig. 1.24 Crankshaft and flywheel (Sec 16)
1 Sump pan bolt
2 Washer
3 Sealing strip
4 Side gasket
5 Side gasket
6 Block/crankcase
7 Gasket8 Bolt
9 Washer
10 Bolt and washer
11 Crankshaft front oil
seal
12 Timing cover
14 Gasket13 Fuel pump studs
and bush
15 Cover plate
16 Bolt and washer
17 Bolt
18 Bolt
19 Washer20 Crankshaft rear oil
seal
21 Oil seal carrier
22 Gasket
23 Sealing strip
24 Sump pan
25 Drain plug
1 Centre main
bearing shells
2 Front main bearing
shells3 Crankshaft
4 Plug
5 Starter ring gear6 Dowel
7 Flywheel
8 Thrust plate9 Bolt
10 Thrust washers
11 Rear main bearing
shells
If the valve spring refuses to
compress, do not apply
excessive force, but remove
the compressor and place a
piece of tubing on the spring retainer
and strike it a sharp blow to release the
collets from the valve stem. Refit the
compressor and resume operations
when the collets should come out.

8Withdraw the solenoid and yoke off the
armature and from the drive end bracket.
Note the steel and fibre washers and the
shims on the armature shaft (photo).
9Extract the split pin and tap out the
engagement lever pivot pin.
10Pull the rubber packing piece from the
drive end bracket.
11Withdraw the armature with solenoid
plunger, coil spring and engagement lever.
12Clean the commutator with a fuel soaked
rag or very fine glass paper. Do not undercut
the mica insulators on the commutator.
Drive
13To remove the drive assembly from the
armature shaft, use a piece of tubing to tap
the stop collar down the shaft to expose the
snap ring. Remove the snap ring and stop
collar and slide the drive assembly from the
shaft.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new snap ring to secure the drive to the
armature shaft.
10 Fuses and relays
1
1The fuse box is located under the left-hand
side of the facia panel and is held in place by
two hand screws (photo).2The fuses and the circuits protected are
identified by symbols. Refer also to Specifi-
cations.
3If a fuse blows, always renew it with one of
identical rating. If the new fuse blows
immediately, find the cause before renewing
the fuse for the second time. This is usually
due to defective wiring insulation causing a
short circuit.
4Never substitute a piece of wire or other
makeshift device for a proper fuse.
5Various relays are plugged into the fuse
block and include those for the heated rear
screen, heater and horns.
6On cars fitted with power-operated front
windows and centralised door locking, the
fuses and relays for these circuits are
mounted separately under the right-hand side
of the facia panel.
7The relay (flasher unit) for the direction
indicators and hazard warning lamps is
located on the lower part of the
steering column combination switch and
is accessible after removing the column
shroud.
11 Steering column
combination switch
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering column shrouds. 3The switch can be removed without
having to take off the steering wheel, but for
clarity, the photographs show the wheel
removed.
4Unscrew the switch clamp nuts, disconnect
the wiring plug and remove the switch from
the steering column (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the activating projections on the
steering wheel hub engage correctly with the
switches.
12 Courtesy lamp switch
1
1These are located in and secured to the
body pillars with a single screw (photo).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Extract the switch screw and withdraw the
switch.
4If the leads are to be disconnected, tape
them to the pillar to prevent them from
slipping inside.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply
petroleum jelly to the switch contacts to
prevent corrosion.
13 Rocker and push-button
switches
1
1These are mounted in panels on each side
of the instrument panel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Prise off the instrument panel hood cover.
This is held in place by clips. The careful use
of a screwdriver will assist in releasing them
(see Section 21).
4Extract the switch panel fixing screws.
These compress spring clips which in turn
secure the switch panel (photo).
5Withdraw the switch panel until the wiring
plugs can be disconnected. Record the
location of the plugs before disconnecting
Electrical system 9•5
11.4 Unscrewing steering column switch
clamp nut
1 Direction indicator flasher unit (relay)10.1 Fuse block (later models)
1 Horn relay
2 Heated tailgate window relay9.8 Starter motor dismantled
13.4 Switch panel screw12.1 Courtesy lamp switch
9

paintwork should the drill slip. Three methods
of making the hole are in use:
a) Use a hole saw in the electric drill. This is,
in effect, a circular hacksaw blade
wrapped round a former with a centre
pilot drill.
b) Use a tank cutter which also has cutting
teeth, but is made to shear the metal by
tightening with an Allen key.
c) The hard way of drilling out the circle is
using a small drill, say 1/8 in (3 mm), so
that the holes overlap. The centre metal
drops out and the hole is finished with
round and half-round files.
14Whichever method is used, the burr is
removed from the body metal and paint
removed from the underside. The aerial is fitted
tightly ensuring that the earth fixing, usually a
serrated washer, ring or clamp, is making a
solid connection. This earth connection is
important in reducing interference. Cover any
bare metal with primer paint and topcoat, and
follow by underseal if desired.
15Aerial feeder cable routing should avoid
the engine compartment and areas where
stress might occur, eg under the carpet where
feet will be located.Loudspeakers
16A mono speaker may be located under
the facia panel beneath the glovebox.
17Provision is made for twin speakers within
the door tidy bins or under the rear shelf
mountings.
18Speakers should be matched to the
output stage of the equipment, particularly as
regards the recommended impedance. Power
transistors used for driving speakers are
sensitive to the loading placed on them.
31 Electrically-operated front
door windows
3
1The electrically-operated front door
windows are controlled by switches on the
centre console or in the door armrest
(depending on model). The regulator motor
and cable are located within the door cavity.
2To gain access to the assembly, remove
the door trim panel as described in Chap-
ter 12.
3Disconnect the wiring plug (1) (Fig. 9.11).4Release the bolts which connect the power
lift to the glass mounting.
5Remove the bolts which hold the lift
assembly to the door.
6The motor and glass mounting may be
disconnected from the cable guide and sleeve
and any faulty components renewed.
7When refitting the assembly to the door,
make sure that the window glass slides
smoothly before fully tightening the cable
guide bolts. Refer to Section 10 for details of
system fuses and relays.
32 Central door locking system
1
1The doors are locked simultaneously from
the outside by turning the key in either
direction.
2The doors can be locked from inside the car
in the following ways:
All doors locked or unlocked - depress or lift
a front door lock plunger knob.
One rear door locked or unlocked - depress
or lift a rear door lock plunger knob.
Electrical system 9•11
Fig. 9.9 Door speaker mounting (Sec 30)Fig. 9.10 Rear speaker mounting (Sec 30)
Fig. 9.13 Central door locking system
components (Sec 32)Fig. 9.12 Power operated window
components (Sec 31)Fig. 9.11 Power-operated window motor
(Sec 31)
1 Connector plug
1 Electric motor
2 Glass mounting
3 Cable guide4 Cable
5 Cable sleeve1 Solenoid
2 Lock relay lever
3 Link rod4 Exterior handle
lever
9

9•14 Electrical system
Fault finding - electrical system
No voltage at starter motor
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery defective internally
m mBattery terminals loose or earth lead not securely attached to body
m mLoose or broken connections in starter motor circuit
m mStarter motor switch or solenoid faulty
Voltage at starter motor - faulty motor
m
mStarter brushes badly worn, sticking, or brush wires loose
m mCommutator dirty, worn or burnt
m mStarter motor armature faulty
m mField coils earthed
Starter motor noisy or rough in engagement
m
mPinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn
m mStarter drive main spring broken
m mStarter motor retaining bolts loose
Alternator not charging*
m
mDrivebelt loose and slipping, or broken
m mBrushes worn, sticking, broken or dirty
m mBrush springs weak or broken
* If all appears to be well but the alternator is still not charging, take the
car to an automobile electrician for checking of the alternator
Ignition light fails to go out, battery runs flat in a
few days
m mDrivebelt loose and slipping, or broken
m mAlternator faulty
Battery will not hold charge for more than a few
days
m mBattery defective internally
m mElectrolyte level too low or electrolyte too weak due to leakage
m mPlate separators no longer fully effective
m mBattery plates severely sulphated
m mDrivebelt slipping
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded
m mAlternator not charging properly
m mShort in lighting circuit causing continual battery drain
Fuel gauge gives no reading
m
mFuel tank empty!
m mElectric cable between tank sender unit and gauge earthed or loose
m mFuel gauge case not earthed
m mFuel gauge supply cable interrupted
m mFuel gauge unit broken
Fuel gauge registers full all the time
m
mElectric cable between tank unit and gauge broken or disconnected
Horn operates all the time
m
mHorn push either earthed or stuck down
m mHorn cable to horn push earthed
Horn fails to operate
m
mBlown fuse
m mCable or cable connection loose, broken or disconnected
m mHorn has an internal fault
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory noise
m
mCable connections loose
m mHorn incorrectly adjusted
Lights do not come on
m
mIf engine not running, battery discharged
m mLight bulb filament burnt out or bulbs broken
m mWire connections loose, disconnected or broken
m mLight switch shorting or otherwise faulty
Lights come on but fade out
m
mIf engine not running, battery discharged
Lights give very poor illumination
m
mLamp glasses dirty
m mReflector tarnished or dirty
m mLamps badly out of adjustment
m mIncorrect bulb with too low wattage fitted
m mExisting bulbs old and badly discoloured
m mElectrical wiring too thin not allowing full current to pass
Lights work erratically, flashing on and off,
especially over bumps
m mBattery terminals or earth connections loose
m mLights not earthing properly
m mContacts in light switch faulty
Wiper motor fails to work
m
mBlown fuse
m mWire connections loose, disconnected or broken
m mBrushes badly worn
m mArmature worn or faulty
m mField coils faulty
Wiper motor works very slowly and takes
excessive current
m mCommutator dirty, greasy or burnt
m mDrive spindle binding or damaged
m mArmature bearings dry or unaligned
m mArmature badly worn or faulty
Wiper motor works slowly and takes little current
m
mBrushes badly worn
m mCommutator dirty, greasy or burnt
m mArmature badly worn or faulty
Wiper motor works but wiper blade remains static
m
mDrive spindle damaged or worn
m mWiper motor gearbox parts badly worn

14•2 Wiring diagrams
No Description
06355 Battery charging warning light
06365 Choke warning light
06368 Antiskid system failure lamp
06385 Heated rear screen warning light
06800 Horn
06801 Right horn
06802 Left horn
07000 Coolant level sensor
07001 Engine oil level sensor
07003 Brake fluid level sensor
07015 Right front brake pad wear sensor
07016 Left front brake pad wear sensor
07020 Engine speed sensor
07021 TDC sensor
07022 Anti-knock sensor
07023 Diagnostic socket
07037 Butterfly valve (cut-off) switch
07050 Fuel gauge
07051 Instant fuel consumption gauge (econometer)
07052 Airflow meter
07060 Idle cut-off device
07107 Roadwheel speed sensors
07109 Vacuum switch
07191 Absolute pressure sensor
07192 Vacuum switch
07400 Fuel gauge
07410 Engine oil temperature gauge
07415 Coolant temperature gauge
07420 Engine oil pressure gauge
07430 Tachometer
07460 Clock
07461 Digital clockNo Description
08051 Ignition coil condenser
09000 Dim-dip transformer
09008 Radiator cooling fan 1st speed resistor
09100 Heated rear screen
10022 Cut-off device electronic control unit
10500 Control (fuse) box
10515 Electronic injection control unit
10571 Central locking control unit
10584 Antiskid system ECU
10586 Pressure modulators
59000 Cigar lighter
60000 Instrument panel
60204 Four place fusebox
70090 General earth
70091 General earth
70092 Earth plate
M Electronic control unit
Wire colour codes
A Light blue
B White
C Orange
G Yellow
H Grey
L Blue
M Brown
N Black
R Red
S Pink
V Green
Z Violet
Example of two-colour wire: BN (White/Black) Component key for wiring diagrams 1 to 29 (continued)
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models

14•20 Wiring diagrams
Component key for wiring diagrams 30 to 52
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models
No Description
1 Injector cooling fan
2 Left front light cluster
3 Left foglamp
4 Left front engine compartment earth
5 Radiator cooling fan
6 Double contact thermostatic switch
on engine radiator
6A Thermostatic switch on engine
radiator
7 Left horn
8 Right horn
9 Resistor for engaging radiator fan 1st
speed
10 Right front light cluster
11 Right foglamp
12 Right front engine compartment earth
13 Battery
14 Ignition coil
15 Ignition distributor with magnetic
impulse generator
16 Left front side direction indicator
17 Ignition power module
18 MPi electronic injection control unit
19 Join between injection/ignition cables
in engine compartment
20 Battery cables join in engine
compartment
21 Antiskid braking system wiring join
22 Starting go-ahead relay
23 Earth for battery
24 Radiator coolant temperature sender
unit for electronic injection
25 Anti-knock sensor
26 Injection system diagnostic socket
27 Switch signalling insufficient engine
oil pressure
28 Radiator coolant temperature sender
unit
29 Engine oil temperature sender unit
30 Engine oil pressure sender unit
31 Right front side direction indicator
32 Engine oil temperature sender unit
cable join
33 Battery recharging signal cable join
34 Windscreen washer pump
35 Rear screen washer pump
36 Reversing switch
37 Fuel injectors relay feed
38 Insufficient brake fluid level sensor
39 Left brake pad wear sensor
40 Microplex electronic ignition control
unit
41 Injection cables join in engine
compartment
42 Ignition cables join in engine
compartment
43 Join between battery cable and
injection cables
44 Join between engine cable and
battery cables
45 Left front brake pad cables join
46 Starter motorNo Description
47 Windscreen wiper motor
48 Headlamp washer pump
49 Fuel injector
50 Fuel injector
51 Fuel injector
52 Fuel injector
53 Supplementary air valve
54 Spark plug
55 Spark plug
56 Spark plug
57 Spark plug
58 Excess supercharging pressure
switch
59 Throttle position switch
60 Engine speed sensor
61 Ignition diagnostic socket
62 Connector block
63 Connector block
64 Alternator
65 Thermostatic switch for injector
cooling fan
66 Right brake pad wear sensor
67 TDC sensor
68 Connector block
69 Connector block
70 Connector block
71 Connector block
72 Join with right brake pad cables
73 Electronic earth
74 Power earth
75 Brake stop-lamp switch
76 20 A fuse for central locking
77 10 A fuse for electric fuel pump
78 30 A fuse for radiator cooling fan
79 30 A fuse for electric windows
80 10 A fuse for injector cooling fan
81 20 A fuse for headlamp
wash/wipe
82 20 A fuse for foglamps
83 Junction box with fuses and relays:
E1 Horn relay (for single tone horns
bridge between 86 and 87)
E2 Heated rear screen relay
E3 Heater (bridge between 85 and 30)
84 Join between front cable and rear
cables
85 Join between front cable and door
ajar sensor cables
86 Earth on dashboard, left hand side
87 Earth on dashboard, right hand
side
88 Choke warning light switch
89 Ignition switch
90 Hazard warning lights switch
91 Steering column switch unit
A Rear screen wash/wipe switch
B Horn button
C Direction indicators switch
D Windscreen wiper intermittent
speed selector switch
E Windscreen/headlamp washer
control switchNo Description
F Rear foglamps/headlamp washer
intermittent device switch
G Headlamp dip switch
H External lights switch
I Flasher switch
92 Foglamp relay
93 Electric fuel pump relay
94 Electric windows relay feed
95 Headlamp wash/wipe intermittent
device
96 Direction indicators/hazard warning
lights flasher unit
97 Central locking receiver
98 Central locking control unit
99 Join with brake pad cables
100 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
101 Automatic heater cable join
102 Instrument panel
A Foglamps warning light
B Main beam headlamps warning
light
C Side lights warning light
D Rear foglamps warning light
E Heated rear screen warning light
F Hazard warning lights warning
light
G Direction indicators warning light
H Handbrake applied and insufficient
brake fluid level warning light
I Choke warning light
K Instrument panel light bulbs
L Battery recharging warning light
M Insufficient engine oil pressure
warning light
O Antiskid braking system failure
warning light
P Maximum turbocharging pressure
warning light
Q Brake pad wear warning light
R Door ajar warning light
U Fuel level gauge
V Engine oil pressure gauge
W Engine oil temperature gauge
Y Tachometer
Z Coolant temperature gauge
103 Join with remote control central
locking cables
104 Cigar lighter
105 Radio receiver
106 Heater unit
107 Switch unit
A Heated rear screen switch
B Rear foglamps switch
C Switch unit light bulb
D Rear screen wiper switch
E Foglamps switch
F Clock
108 Left front electric window motor
109 Left front central locking geared
motor
110 Switch signalling left front door ajar

Fault FindingREF•9
REF
Introduction
The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component
reliability is such that, provided those items
subject to wear or deterioration are inspected
or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden
failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not
usually just happen as a result of sudden
failure, but develop over a period of time.
Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles.
Those components which do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily
carried in the vehicle.
With any fault finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or
replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have
spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault –
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual noises or smells, etc – and remember
that failure of components such as fuses or
spark plugs may only be pointers to some
underlying fault.
The pages which follow here are intended
to help in cases of failure to start or
breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault
Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter
which should be consulted if the preliminary
checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault,
certain basic principles apply. These are as
follows:Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of
being sure that you know what the symptoms
are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for
someone else who may not have described it
very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example,
if the vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in the
tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge
either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look
for loose or broken wires before digging out
the test gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom.
Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged
one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if
the underlying cause is not attended to,the
new battery will go the same way. Similarly,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set
will get you moving again, but remember that
the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an
incorrect grade of plug) will have to be
established and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted.
Particularly, don’t forget that a ‘new’
component may itself be defective (especially
if it’s been rattling round in the boot for
months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they
are new or recently fitted. When you do finally
diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably
realise that all the evidence was there from
the start.
Electrical faults
Electrical faults can be more puzzling than
straightforward mechanical failures, but they
are no less susceptible to logical analysis if
the basic principles of operation are
understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in
extremely unfavourable conditions – heat,
vibration and chemical attack and the first
things to look for are loose or corroded
connections and broken or chafed wires,especially where the wires pass through holes
in the bodywork or are subject to vibration.
All metal-bodied vehicles in current
production have one pole of the battery
‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle
bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it
is the negative (–) terminal. The various
electrical components – motors, bulb holders,
etc – are also connected to earth, either by
means of a lead or directly by their mountings.
Electric current flows through the component
and then back to the battery via the
bodywork. If the component mounting is
loose or corroded, or if a good path back to
the battery is not available, the circuit will be
incomplete and malfunction will result. The
engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by
means of flexible metal straps to the body or
subframe; if these straps are loose or missing,
starter motor, generator and ignition trouble
may result.
Assuming the earth return to be
satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either
to component malfunction or to defects in the
current supply. Individual components are
dealt with in Chapter 9. If supply wires are
broken or cracked internally this results in an
open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for
this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily
with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or
suitable connector at each end. Alternatively,
a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the
presence of supply voltage at various points
along the wire and the break can be thus
isolated.
If a bare portion of a live wire touches the
bodywork or other earthed metal part, the
electricity will take the low-resistance path
thus formed back to the battery: this is known
as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will
blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause
burning of the insulation (and possibly further
short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is
inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing
fuses with silver foil or wire.

F
Facia - 12•10, 13•107
Fan -2•3, 13•57, 13•71, 13•84
Fast idle adjustment -3•7, 3•9, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64
Fault finding- REF`•9et seq
Fault finding - braking system -8•9
Fault finding - clutch -5•3
Fault finding - cooling and heating systems
-2•8
Fault finding - driveshafts and hubs -7•6
Fault finding - Econometer -9•12
Fault finding - electrical system -9•14,
REF•9
Fault finding - engine -1•35, 1•36, 2•8,
3•13, 4•9, 13•92, REF•10, REF•11
Fault finding - fuel system -3•9, 3•13,
13•84
Fault finding - ignition system -4•9,
REF•11
Fault finding - Microplex ignition system -
13•92
Fault finding - steering - 10•4
Fault finding - suspension - 11•6
Fault finding - transmission -6•4
Fault finding - turbocharger system - 13•84
Filling - 12•3
Final drive output shafts - 13•94
Fire -0•5
Float adjustment -3•7, 3•8, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64, 13•66
Flywheel -1•19, 1•21, 1•31, 13•46, 13•53
Fog lamps - 13•106
Fuel evaporation control system - 13•78
Fuel filter - 13•67, 13•72, 13•74, 13•79
Fuel gauge fault -9•14
Fuel injection electronic control unit (ECU)
- 13•77
Fuel injection system - 13•68, 13•69
Fuel injection system fault finding - 13•84
Fuel injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Fuel level transmitter -3•5
Fuel pressure regulator - 13•70
Fuel pump -3•5, 13•61, 13•69, 13•72,
13•76, 13•80, 13•81
Fuel rail - 13•70, 13•81
Fuel system-3•1et seq, 13•60, REF•4
Fuel system fault finding -3•9, 3•13
Fuel tank -3•5, 13•61, 13•72
Fume or gas intoxication -0•5
Fuses -9•5, 13•105
G
Gaiters -7•2, 10•2, 13•98
Gashes in bodywork - 12•2
Gaskets -1•20
Gearbox - SeeTransmission
Gearchange lever -6•2
Gearchange linkage - 13•94, 13•95
Glossary of technical terms- REF•13et seq
Grille - 12•3, 13•113
H
Handbrake -8•8, 8•9, REF•1
Handles - 12•11
HC emissions - REF•4
Headlamp -9•6, 9•7, 13•105, 13•106
Heated tailgate window -9•10
Heater -2•5, 2•6, 13•58, 13•59, 13•108
Heater fault -2•8
Horn -9•6, 13•106
Horn fault -9•14
HT leads - 13•92
Hubs -7•3, 7•4, 11•3
Hydraulic hoses and pipes -8•6
Hydraulic system -8•7
Hydrofluoric acid -0•5
I
Idle speed adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
Idling fault -1•36, 3•13, 13•84
Ignition coil - 13•86, 13•90, 13•91
Ignition switch -4•8
Ignition system-4•1et seq, 13•85
Ignition system fault finding -4•9, 9•14,
REF•11
Ignition unit - 13•89
Indicators -9•7
Injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Inlet manifold - 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Instrument panel -9•8, 13•107
Intercooler - 13•84
Interior lamps -9•5, 9•8
Introduction to the Fiat Uno -0•4
J
Jacking -0•8
Joint mating faces and gaskets - REF•8
Jump starting -0•7
L
Lambda sensor - 13•82
Lamps -9•6, 9•7, 9•8
Leaks -0•9, 1•36, 13•84
LED (light emitter diode) -9•12
Lights fault -9•14
Locknuts,locktabs and washers - REF•8
Locks -9•11, 10•4, 12•4, 12•6, 12•7,
13•109
Loudspeakers -9•11
Lubricants and fluids -0•13
M
Magnetic impulse generator winding -
13•86
Main bearings -1•20, 1•30, 13•52
Maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Manifolds -3•12, 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Master cylinder -8•5, 13•103, 13•93
Microplex ignition system - 13•86, 13•89Microplex ignition system fault finding -
13•92
Mirrors - 12•11, 13•111, REF•1
Misfire -1•35, 4•9, REF•11
Mixture adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
MOT test checks- REF•1et seq
Mountings -1•13, 1•27, 13•26, 13•35,
13•49
N
Needle valve - 13•66
Number plate lamp -9•7
O
Oil cooler - 13•36
Oil filter -1•8
Oil level sensor - 13•110, 13•111
Oil pressure fault -1•36, REF•11
Oil pump -1•13, 1•19, 1•22, 1•26, 1•29,
13•24, 13•30, 13•35, 13•46, 13•53
Oil seals -1•20, 13•41, 13•44, 13•45,
13•94, REF•8
Oil,engine -0•6, 0•13, 1•3, 1•4, 1•8
Oil,transmission -0•6, 0•13, 6•1, 13•14,
13•95
Overheating -2•8, 4•9, REF•11
P
Pad wear sensor - 13•110
Pads -8•2, 13•100, 13•101
Parking lamp -9•7
Pedals -5•2, 8•9, 13•92, 13•102
Pinking -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pistons -1•12, 1•18, 1•22, 1•26, 1•30,
13•25, 13•26, 13•30, 13•35, 13•47,
13•48, 13•53
Plastic components - 13•111
Points -4•2, 4•3
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power module - 13•90
Pre-ignition -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pressure regulating valve -8•6, 13•102
Pressure sensor - 13•86
R
Radiator -2•3, 12•3, 13•57, 13•113
Radio -9•10, 13•110
Rear lamp cluster -9•7
Regulator (voltage) -9•4
Regulator (window) - 12•7
Relays -9•5, 13•71, 13•105
Repair procedures - REF•8
Respraying - 12•3
Rocker cover - 13•19
Rockers -1•19
Roof rack - 12•11
Routine maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Rust holes in bodywork - 12•2
REF•18Index