1983 FIAT UNO oil type

head gasket must be fitted (ALTO visible) so
that the oil pressure hole in the block is
central in the copper ringed cut-out in the
gasket (photos). Make sure that the gasket
surfaces on head and block are perfectly
clean and free from oil, otherwise the heat
sealing (polymerisation) process of the gasket
cannot take place.
22Tighten the cylinder head nuts and bolts
to the specified torque, in the sequence
shown in Fig. 1.30. Follow the procedure very
carefully owing to the special type (ASTADUR)
of gasket used which hardens in use. Always
keep a new cylinder head gasket in its
nylon cover until just before it is required for
use.
23Oil the cylinder head bolts and
washers and allow them to drain for thirty
minutes.
24Tighten the bolts in the following
stages:
Stage 1 20 Nm (15 lbf ft)
Stage 2 40 Nm (30 lbf ft)
Stage 3 Through 90º
Stage 4 Through 90º (photo)
Retightening the bolts after a running-in
mileage is not required.
25Fit the timing belt (Section 28).
26Check the valve clearances (Section 26)
after the camshaft carrier has been fitted
(Section 27).
27Bolt on the camshaft carrier cover.
28Reconnect all hoses, leads and controls.
29Reconnect the battery and refill the
cooling system.
30 Sump pan-
removal and refitting
1
1Position the car over an inspection pit or
raise the front wheels on ramps.
2Disconnect the battery.
3Drain the engine oil. Unbolt and remove the
flywheel housing lower cover plate.
4Unbolt the sump pan and remove it
together with its gasket.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always
use a new gasket locating it on clean mating
flanges and tighten the fixing bolts evenly and
progressively (photo).
6Fill the engine with oil and reconnect the
battery.
31 Oil pump-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the sump pan as described in the
preceding Section.
2Unbolt the oil pump and withdraw it
complete with driveshaft.
3Use a new gasket when refitting the pump
and prime the pump by pouring engine oil
through the pick-up filter screen (photo).
32 Pistons/connecting rod-
removal and refitting
3
1Remove the sump pan and the oil pump as
described in Sections 30 and 31.
1•26 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
Fig. 1.31 Piston/connecting rod assembly
diagram (Sec 32)
1 Matching numbers
2 Gudgeon pin offset
3 Auxiliary shaft
Arrow indicates direction of rotation of
crankshaft viewed from timing belt end
29.24 Tightening a cylinder head bolt
through 90º using a protractor
31.3 Bolting on the oil pump30.5 Locating the sump pan gasket
29.21C Lowering cylinder onto block29.21B Cylinder head gasket in position -
cylinder block drain plug arrowed29.21A Cylinder head gasket top face
marking

Engine idles roughly
m mMixture too weak
m mAir leak in carburettor
m mAir leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to
carburettor
m mCarburettor incorrectly adjusted
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mLow tension leads on coil loose
m mLow tension lead to distributor loose
m mDirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points
m mTracking across inside of distributor cover
m mFaulty coil
m mIgnition leads loose
m mSpark plugs fouled or incorrectly gapped.
m mIgnition timing incorrect
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mIncorrect valve clearances
m mWidely differing cylinder compressions
m mLow battery voltage (charging fault)
m mBattery leads loose on terminals
m mBattery earth strap loose on body attachment point
m mEngine earth lead loose
Pre-ignition (pinking) during acceleration
m
mIncorrect grade of fuel being used
m mIgnition timing over-advanced
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mEngine overheated
m mExcessive carbon build-up
m mFuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mValve timing incorrect (after rebuild)
m mMixture too weak
Engine runs on after switching off
m
mIdle speed too high
m mIncorrect type of spark plug
m mOverheating
m mExcessive carbon build-up
m mOther emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
Oil being lost due to leaks
m
mLeaking oil filter gasket
m mLeaking rocker cover gasket
m mLeaking timing gear cover gasket
m mLeaking sump gasket
m mLoose sump plug
Low oil pressure (verify accuracy of sender before
dismantling engine!)
m mOil level low
m mEngine overheating
m mIncorrect grade of oil in use
m mOil filter clogged or bypass valve stuck
m mPressure relief valve stuck or defective
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged or loose
m mMain or big-end bearings worn
m mOil pump worn or mountings loose
Excessive oil consumption
m
mOverfilling
m mLeaking gaskets or drain plug washer
m mValve stem oil seals worn, damaged or missing after rebuild
m mValve stems and/or guides worn
m mPiston rings and/or bores worn
m mPiston oil return holes clogged
Oil contaminated with water
m
mExcessive cold running
m mLeaking head gasket
m mCracked block or head
Oil contaminated with fuel
m
mExcessive use of choke
m mWorn piston rings and/or bores
Unusual mechanical noises
m
mUnintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blade)
m mWorn drivebelt
m mWorn valvegear (tapping noises from top of engine) or incorrect
clearance
m mPeripheral component fault (generator, coolant pump)
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load)
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load)
m mSmall-end bushes or gudgeon pins worn (light metallic tapping)
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when engine cold)
m mWorn timing chain and gears (rattling from front of engine)
m mWorn crankshaft (knocking, rumbling and vibration)
1•36 All engines

2
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “No loss” with radiator and integral expansion tank. Electric cooling
fan, belt-driven coolant pump, thermostat on cylinder head
General
Radiator fan cuts in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 94ºC (194 to 201ºF)
Radiator fan switches off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)
Thermostat opens:
903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)
1116 cc and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 to 87ºC (181 to 188.6ºF)
Fully open:
903 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100ºC (212ºF)
1116 cc and 1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95ºC (203ºF)
Expansion tank pressure cap rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.78 bar (11 lbf/in2)
Coolant
Capacity:
903 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6 litre (8.1 pint)
1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litre (10.6 pint)
1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litre (10.9 pint)
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Temperature sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Coolant pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25
Alternator adjuster and mountings nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Chapter 2 Cooling and heating systems
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Coolant mixtures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Coolant pump - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Cooling system sensors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Description and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Drivebelt - tensioning and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Fault finding - cooling and heating . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of ChapterHeater - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Heater unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heating and ventilation system - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Radiator fan thermostatic switch - removal, checking and refitting . 5
Radiator fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2•1
Specifications Contents
1 Description and
maintenance
1
1The cooling system consists of a
front-mounted radiator with built-in expansion
tank, a coolant pump (belt-driven from the
crankshaft pulley) and a thermostatically-
controlled electric cooling fan.
2In order to assist rapid warm-up, athermostat is located in a housing at the
left-hand end of the cylinder head. The hose
connections to the thermostat housing vary
according to model.
3The heater is supplied with coolant from the
engine and incorporates a matrix and blower
with the necessary controls.
4The throttle valve plate block of the
carburettor is coolant-heated as a means of
improving fuel atomisation.
5Maintenance is minimal as in theory no
coolant should ever be lost from theexpansion tank. Regularly check that the
coolant level is between 50.0 and 70.0 mm
(1.97 and 2.8 in) above the MIN mark on the
tank with the engine cold. The need for
regular topping up will indicate a leak
somewhere in the system. If one cannot be
found suspect an internal leak in the engine
although this is usually confirmed by a rise in
the engine oil level and water on the dipstick
(photo). Any topping-up should be done using
an antifreeze mixture (see Section 3), not plain
water.
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

4
System type
Except ES engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, coil mechanical breaker distributor
ES engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli Digiplex electronic with breakerless distributor
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 (No. 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)
Mechanical breaker distributor
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli or Ducellier
Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.37 to 0.43 mm (0.015 to 0.017 in)
Condenser capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 µF
Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 to 58º
Rotor rotational direction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise
Ignition timing (dynamic)
903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º BTDC at idle
1116 and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10º BTDC at idle
Centrifugal advance:
903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 30 and 34º max
1116 and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 22 and 24º max
Vacuum advance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 10 and 14º max
Ignition coil
Primary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 2.6 and 3.3 ohms depending upon make of coil
Secondary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 6745 and 12 000 ohms depending upon make of coil
Marelli Digiplex electronic ignition
Rotor arm resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1000 ohms
Advance range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 6 to 10º and 47 to 51º
Engine speed sensor
Resistance on flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612 to 748 ohms
Sensor to flywheel tooth gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 1.3 mm (0.0099 to 0.0512 in)
TDC sensor
Resistance on pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612 to 748 ohms
Sensor to pulley tooth gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.0 mm (0.016 to 0.039 in)
Ignition coil
Primary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.310 to 0.378 ohms
Secondary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3330 to 4070 ohms
Chapter 4 Ignition system
For modifications and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Condenser (capacitor) - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Digiplex (electronic) - ignition checks and adjustments . . . . . . . . . . 10
Digiplex (electronic) ignition - location of components and
precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Distributor (mechanical breaker type) - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Dwell angle - checking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Fault finding - ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ignition coil - (mechanical breaker ignition) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Ignition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Mechanical contact breaker - points servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
4•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Spark plugs
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC
Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.031 in)
HT leads
903 cc (45) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07
1116, 1299 and 1301 cc (55, 60 and 70) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
4•2 Ignition system
1 General description
On all models except the 903 ES engine
version, a mechanical contact breaker type
distributor is fitted.
On 45 Super ES models which have the
903 ES engine, an electronic (Digiplex) ignition
system is used which incorporates a
breakerless distributor.
Mechanical contact breaker
system
For the engine to run correctly, it is
necessary for an electrical spark to ignite the
fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at
exactly the right moment in relation to engine
speed and load. The ignition system is based
on feeding low tension voltage from the
battery to the coil where it is converted to high
tension voltage. The high tension voltage is
powerful enough to jump the spark plug gap
in the cylinders under high compression
pressures, providing that the system is in
good condition and that all adjustments are
correct.
The ignition system is divided into two
circuits, the low tension (LT) circuit and the
high tension (HT) circuit.
The low tension (sometimes known as the
primary) circuit consists of the battery, the
lead to the ignition switch, the lead from the
ignition switch to the low tension or primary
coil windings, and the lead from the low
tension coil windings to the contact breaker
points and condenser in the distributor.
The high tension circuit consists of the high
tension or secondary coil windings, the heavy
ignition lead from the centre of the coil to the
centre of the distributor cap, the rotor arm,
and the spark plug leads and spark plugs.
The system functions in the following
manner: High tension voltage is generated in
the coil by the interruption of the low tension
circuit. The interruption is effected by the
opening of the contact breaker points in this
low tension circuit. High tension voltage is fed
from the centre of the coil via the carbon
brush in the centre of the distributor cap to
the rotor arm of the distributor.
The rotor arm revolves at half engine speed
inside the distributor cap, and each time it
comes in line with one of the four metal
segments in the cap, which are connected to
the spark plug leads, the opening of thecontact breaker points causes the high
tension voltage to build up, jump the gap from
the rotor arm to the appropriate metal
segment, and so via the spark plug lead to the
spark plug, where it finally jumps the spark
plug gap before going to earth.
The ignition timing is advanced and
retarded automatically, to ensure the sparkoccurs at just the right instant for the
particular load at the prevailing engine speed.
The ignition advance is controlled
mechanically, and by vacuum. The
mechanical governor mechanism consists of
two weights, which move out from the
distributor shaft as the engine speed rises,
due to centrifugal force. As they move
Fig. 4.1 Typical ignition circuit (mechanical contact breaker distributor) (Sec 1)
1 Control unit
2 Multi-plug
3 Ignition coil
4 Distributor cap5 Crankshaft pulley
6 Flywheel
7 Battery
8 Rev counter9 Spark plugs
10 Wiring connector
S1 Engine speed sensor
S2 TDC sensor
Fig. 4.2 Digiplex electronic ignition system (Sec 1)

outwards, they rotate the cam relative to the
distributor shaft, and so advance the spark.
The weights are held in position by two
springs and it is the tension of the springs
which is largely responsible for correct spark
advancement.
The vacuum advance is controlled by a
diaphragm capsule connected to the
carburettor venturi. The vacuum pressure
varies according to the throttle valve plate
opening and so adjusts the ignition advance
in accordance with the engine requirements.
Digiplex ignition system
This electronic system eliminates the
mechanical contact breaker and centrifugal
advance mechanism of conventional
distributors and uses an electronic control
unit to provide advance values according to
engine speed and load. No provision is made
for adjustment of the ignition timing.
Information relayed to the control unit is
provided by two magnetic sensors which
monitor engine speed and TDC directly from
the engine crankshaft.
A vacuum sensor in the control unit
converts intake manifold vacuum into an
electric signal.
The control unit selects the optimum
advance angle required and a closed
magnetic circuit resin coil guarantees a spark
owing to the low primary winding resistance.
Five hundred and twelve advance values
are stored in the control unit memory to suit
any combination of engine operating
conditions.
No maintenance is required to the
distributor used on this system.
Distributor drive
The mechanical breaker type distributor on
903 cc engines and the Digiplex type
distributor on 903 cc ES engines are mounted
on the cylinder head and driven from a gear
on the camshaft through a shaft which also
drives the oil pump.
The distributor on 1116 cc and 1301 cc
engines is mounted on the crankcase and is
driven from a gear on the auxiliary shaft as is
also the oil pump.
2 Mechanical contact breaker
- points servicing
3
1At the intervals specified in “Routine
Maintenance”, prise down the clips on the
distributor cap and place the cap with high
tension leads to one side.
2Pull off the rotor.
3Remove the spark shield. Mechanical wear
of the contact breaker reduces the gap.
Electrical wear builds up a “pip” of burned
metal on one of the contacts. This
|prevents the gap being measured for
re-adjustment, and also spoils the electric
circuit.
Ducellier type distributor
4To remove the contact breaker movable
arm, extract the clip and take off the washer
from the top of the pivot post.
5Extract the screw and remove the fixed
contact arm.
6Clean the points by rubbing the surfaces on
a fine abrasive such as an oil stone. The point
surface should be shaped to a gentle convex
curve. All the “pip” burned onto one contact
must be removed. It is not necessary to go on
until all traces of the crater have been
removed from the other. There is enough
metal on the contacts to allow this to be done
once. At alternate services, fit new points.
Wash debris off cleaned points and
preservatives off new ones.
7Now the distributor should be lubricated.
This lubrication is important for the correct
mechanical function of the distributor, but
excess lubrication will ruin the electrical
circuits, and give difficult starting.
8Whilst the contact breaker is off, squirt
some engine oil into the bottom part of the
distributor, onto the centrifugal advance
mechanism below the plate.
9Wet with oil the felt pad on the top of the
distributor spindle, normally covered by the
rotor arm.
10Put just a drip of oil on the pivot for the
moving contact.11Smear a little general purpose grease
onto the cam, and the heel of the moving
contact breaker.
12Refit the contact points and then set the
gap in the following way.
13Turn the crankshaft by applying a spanner
to the pulley nut or by jacking up a front
wheel, engaging top gear and turning the
roadwheel in the forward direction of
travel. Keep turning until the plastic
heel of the movable contact arm is on the
high point of a cam lobe on the distributor
shaft.
14Set the points gap by moving the fixed
contact arm until the specified feeler blades
are a sliding fit. Tighten the fixed contact arm
screw.
15Check the contact end of the rotor arm.
Remove any slightly burnt deposits using fine
abrasive paper. Severe erosion will
necessitate renewal of the rotor.
16Wipe out the distributor cap and check for
cracks or eroded contacts (photo). Renew if
evident or if the carbon brush is worn.
17Refit the spark shield, rotor and distributor
cap.
18Setting the contact breaker gap with a
feeler blade must be regarded as a means of
ensuring that the engine will start. For
optimum engine performance, the dwell angle
must be checked and adjusted as described
in Section 3.
Marelli type distributor
19Open the points with a finger nail and
inspect their condition. If they are badly
eroded or burned, then they must be
renewed. The contact points can only be
renewed complete with carrier plate as an
assembly.
20Release the low tension leads from the
terminals on the distributor body (photo).
21Extract the screws which hold the vacuum
advance capsule to the distributor body. Tilt
the capsule and release its link rod from the
contact breaker carrier plate (photo).
22Prise out the E-clip from the breaker
carrier and then withdraw the contact
assembly from the top of the distributor shaft.
Ignition system 4•3
2.21 Extracting vacuum diaphragm unit
screw2.20 Marelli distributor2.16 Interior of distributor cap showing
carbon brush
4

5 Condenser (capacitor)-
removal, testing and refitting
1
The purpose of the condenser (sometimes
known as the capacitor) is to ensure that when
the contact breaker points open there is no
sparking across them which would weaken
the spark and cause rapid deterioration of the
points.
The condenser is fitted in parallel with the
contact breaker points. If it develops a short
circuit it will cause ignition failure as the points
will be prevented from interrupting the low
tension circuit.
1If the engine becomes very difficult to start
(or begins to misfire whilst running) and the
breaker points show signs of excessive
burning, suspect the condenser has failed
with open circuit. A test can be made by
separating the points by hand with the ignition
switched on. If this is accompanied by a
bright spark at the contact points, it is
indicative that the condenser has failed.
2Without special test equipment, the only
sure way to diagnose condenser trouble is to
replace a suspected unit with a new one and
note if there is any improvement.
3To remove the condenser from the
distributor, take out the screw which secures
it to the distributor body and disconnect its
leads from the terminals.
4When fitting the condenser, it is vital to
ensure that the fixing screw is secure. The
lead must be secure on the terminal with no
chance of short circuiting.
6 Distributor-
removal and refitting
3
1Remove the spark plug from No. 4 cylinder
and then turn the crankshaft either by
applying a spanner to the pulley nut or by
jacking up a front wheel, engaging top gear
and turning the wheel in the forward direction
of travel.
2Place a finger over the plug hole and feel
the compression being generated as the
piston rises up the cylinder bore.
3Alternatively, if the rocker cover is off,
check that the valves on No. 1 cylinder are
closed.
4Continue turning the crankshaft until the
flywheel and flywheel housing (BTDC) ignition
timing marks are in alignment. Number 4
piston is now in firing position.
5Remove the distributor cap and place it to
one side complete with high tension leads.
6Disconnect the distributor vacuum hose
and low tension lead (photo).
7Mark the distributor pedestal mounting
plinth in relation to the crankcase. Also mark
the contact end of the rotor in relation to the
rim of the distributor body.8Unbolt the clamp plate and withdraw the
distributor.
9Refit by having No. 4 piston at its firing
position and the distributor rotor and pedestal
marks aligned, then push the distributor into
position, mating it to the splined driveshaft.
10If a new distributor is being fitted then of
course alignment marks will not be available
to facilitate installation in which case, hold the
unit over its mounting hole and observe the
following.
903 cc engine: Distributor cap high tension
lead sockets pointing towards alternator and
at 90º to centre line of rocker cover. Contact
end of rotor arm pointing towards No. 4
contact in distributor cap (when fitted).
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine: Distributor
vacuum unit pointing downwards at 135º to
rear edge of timing belt cover. Contact end of
rotor arm pointing towards No. 4 contact in
distributor cap (when fitted).
11Tighten the distributor clamp bolt,
reconnect the vacuum hose and the low
tension leads. Refit the distributor cap. Screw
in the spark plug.
12Check the ignition timing as described in
Section 4.
7 Distributor (mechanical
breaker type)- overhaul
3
Ducellier
1The cap must have no flaws or cracks and
the HT terminal contacts should not be
severely corroded. The centre spring-loaded
carbon contact is renewable. If in any doubt
about the cap, buy a new one.
2The rotor deteriorates minimally, but with
age the metal conductor tip may corrode. It
should not be cracked or chipped and the
metal conductor must not be loose. If in
doubt, renew it. Always fit a new rotor if fitting
a new cap.
3With the distributor removed as described
in the preceding Section, take off the rotor
and contact breaker.4To remove the contact breaker movable
arm, extract the clip and take off the washer
from the top of the pivot post.
5Extract the screw and remove the fixed
contact arm.
6Carefully record the setting of the advance
toothed segment and then remove the spring
clip and vacuum capsule fixing screws and
withdraw the capsule with link rod.
7Pick out the lubrication pad from the recess
in the top of the distributor shaft. Unscrew the
screw now exposed.
8Mark the relationship of the cam to the
counterweight pins and then remove the cam
assembly.
9There is no way to test the bob weight
springs other than by checking the
performance of the distributor on special test
equipment, so if in doubt, fit new springs
anyway. If the springs are loose where they
loop over the posts, it is more than possible
that the post grooves are worn. In this case,
the various parts which include the shaft will
need renewal. Wear to this extent would mean
that a new distributor is probably the best
solution in the long run. Be sure to make note
of the engine number and any serial number
on the distributor when ordering.
10If the mainshaft is slack in its bushes or
the cam on the spindle, allowing sideways
play, it means that the contact points gap
setting can only be a compromise; the cam
position relative to the cam follower on the
moving point arm is not constant. It is not
practical to re-bush the distributor body
unless you have a friend who can bore and
bush it for you. The shaft can be removed by
driving out the roll pin from the retaining collar
at the bottom. (The collar also acts as an oil
slinger to prevent excess engine oil creeping
up the shaft.)
Marelli
11With the distributor removed from the
engine, take off the spark shield and rotor.
12Remove the contact breaker and carrier
as described in Section 2.
13Refer to paragraphs 9 and 10 for details of
counterweight springs and shaft bushes
(photo).
Ignition system 4•5
6.6 Distributor LT connection4.5 Distributor clamp plate nut
4

important that the following precautions are
observed.
3Never start the engine if the battery leads
are loose.
4Do not stop the engine by pulling off a
battery lead.
5Remove the control unit if ambient
temperature (paint drying oven) is above 80ºC
(176ºF).
6Never connect or disconnect the multi-plug
at the control unit unless the ignition is
switched off.
7Disconnect the battery negative lead before
carrying out electric body welding.10 Digiplex (electronic) ignition
- checks and adjustments
3
1Without special equipment, any work on the
system components should be restricted to
the following.
Engine speed sensor
2The gap between the sensor and the teeth
of the flywheel should be between 0.25 and
1.3 mm (0.0099 to 0.0512 in). Any
deviation will be due to mechanical damage to
the sensor, no adjustment being possible.
TDC sensor
3The gap between the sensor and one of the
TDC reference marks on the crankshaft pulley
should be between 0.4 and 1.0 mm (0.016 to
0.039 in).
4Any deviation will be due to the sensor
plate becoming loose. To reposition it will
necessitate setting No. 1 piston at TDC which
can only be carried out accurately by your
dealer using special tools.
Supply circuit and continuity of
coil primary winding
5Connect a test lamp between contacts 11
and 9 of the multi-plug having first pulled it
from the control unit.
6Switch on the ignition, the test lamp should
come on. If it does not, either the connection
at the positive pole of the control unit or the
coil primary winding is open.
Control unit earth
7Connect a test lamp between contacts 8
and 9 of the multi-plug having first pulled it
from the control unit. Switch on the ignition,
the test lamp should come on. If it does not,
improve the earth connection.
11 Spark plugs
1
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of the
engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are
appropriate for the engine, and the suitable type
is specified at the beginning of this chapter. If
Ignition system 4•7
Fig. 4.9 Digiplex control unit (Sec 9)
1 Vacuum hose connector
2 Multi-plug socket
1 Control unit
2 Distributor
3 Ignition coil4 TDC sensor
5 Wiring connector plug6 Engine speed sensor
7 Wiring connector plug
Fig. 4.8 Location of Digiplex ignition system components (Sec 9)
Fig. 4.13 Test lamp connected between
terminals 8 and 9 of control unit multi-plug
(Sec 10)Fig. 4.12 Test lamp connected between
terminals 11 and 9 of control unit
multi-plug (Sec 10)
Fig. 4.11 TDC sensor gap (Sec 10)
Fig. 4.10 Engine speed sensor gap
(Sec 10)
4