1982 CHEVROLET CAMARO check oil

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 323
Replacement kits include new bearing
cups and conventional snaprings to
replace the original nylon rings. These replacement rings must go inboard of the
yoke in contrast to outboard mounting of the Dana and Cleveland designs.
Previous service to the Saginaw U-joints can be recognized by the presence of
snaprings inboard of the yoke.
Bad U-joints, requiring replacement, will produce a clunking sound when the car
is put into gear. This is due to worn needle bearings or a scored trunnion end
possibly caused by improper lubricati on during assembly. Camaro U-joints
require no periodic maintenance and theref ore have no lubrication fittings.
DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise the vehicle and safely su pport it on jackstands. Paint a reference
line from the rear end of the drives haft to the companion flange so that
they can be reassembled in the same position.
2. Disconnect the rear universal join t by removing the U-bolts, retaining
straps, or the flange bolts.
3. To prevent loss of the needle bear ings, tape the bearing caps to the
trunnion.

Fig. 1: Driveshaft
4. Remove the driveshaft from the tr ansmission by sliding it rearward.
Do not be alarmed by oil l eakage at the transmission output shaft. This oil is
there to lubricate the sp lines of the front yoke.
To install: 5. Check the yoke seal in the transmi ssion case extension and replace it if
necessary. See the transmission sect ion for replacement procedures.
6. Position the driveshaft and insert t he front yoke into the transmission so
the splines mesh with the transmission shaft splines.
7. Using reference marks made during re moval, align the driveshaft with the
companion flange and secure it with U-bolts or, retaining straps.
U-JOINT REPLACEMENT 1. Support the driveshaft horizontally in line with the base plate of a press.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 328
internal splines of each differential side
gear. As the side gears turn, so do the
axle shafts, and, since they are also connected, so do the wheels.
Each shaft passes through the side gear and is locked into place by either a C-
lock or flange plate bolted to the end of the axle housing with pressed on
bearings. As the name implies, the C-lock is a flat, C-shaped piece of metal that
fits into a groove at t he end of the shaft. A round pinion shaft is wedged in
between the end of the shafts. This pinion shaft prevents the shafts from sliding
inward and makes the C-locks functional by pushing them tightly against each
side gear. Removing this pini on shaft allows the shafts to slide inward making
the C-locks accessible for removal. Once the C-locks are removed, the axle
shafts can be pulled from the car.
The wheel end of each shaft is flanged and pressed into it are five wheel lug
bolts serving to hold on t he wheel. Each axle shaft is supported by an axle
bearing (wheel bearing) and oil seal located within the axle shaft housing just to
the outside of the br ake backing plate.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
EXCEPT BORG-WARNER REAR ASSEMBLY 1. Raise and support the vehicle safe ly. Remove the rear wheels and
drums or rotors.
2. Remove the carrier cover and drain t he gear oil into a suitable container.

Fig. 1: Clean the area around the bolts

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 340
10. Install the brake line j
unction block bolt at the ax le housing. Connect any
brake lines that were disconnected.
11. Install and secure the driveshaft a ligning the match marks made earlier.
12. Connect the shock absorbers to the axle and install the wheel
assemblies.
13. Lower the vehicle and replace any lost rear axle fluid.
DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Place a suitable contai ner under the differential. Remove the carrier
cover and drain the gear oil.
3. Remove the drive axles.
4. Mark the differential bearing caps L and R to make sure they will be
reassembled in their original location.
5. Using a suitable tool, remove the di fferential carrier. Be careful not to
damage the gasket sealing surface wh en removing the unit. Place the
right and left bearing outer races of the side bearing assemblies and
shims in sets with the marked different ial bearings caps so they can be
reinstalled in their original positions.
To install: 6. Inspect the differential carrier housi ng for foreign material. Check the ring
and pinion for chipped teeth, exce ssive wear and scoring. Check the
carrier bearings visually and by feel . Clean the differential housing and
replace components, as necessary.
7. Install the differential carrier. C heck the carrier bearing preload along
with the ring and pinion backlash, then adjust, as necessary. Tighten the
differential bearing cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) except on Borg-
Warner rear axles which are ti ghtened to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
8. Install the axles.
9. Install the carrier cover using a new gasket. Tighten the carrier cover
bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Add the proper type and quantity of gear oil to
axle assembly.

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battery, electricity is forced into the battery
, and the battery is returned to its fully
charged state.
Alternators are used on the modern autom obiles for they are lighter, more
efficient, can rotate at higher speeds and have fewer brush problems. In an
alternator, the field rotates while al l the current produced passes only through
the stators windings. The brushes bear agains t continuous slip rings rather than
a commutator. This causes the current produced to periodically reverse the
direction of its flow. Diodes (electrica l one-way switches) block the flow of
current from traveling in t he wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired together
to permit the alternating flow of the st ator to be converted to a pulsating, but
unidirectional flow at the alternator out put. The alternator's field is wired in
series with the voltage regulator.
Please refer to Engine Performance & Tune-up for ignition system testing
procedures.
IGNITION COIL
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
INTERNALLY MOUNTED COIL 1. Disconnect and label the wires from cap.
2. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor.
3. On the distributor cap, remove t he coil cover attaching screws and the
cover.
4. Remove the ignition coil attaching screws and lift the coil from the cap.
To install: 5. Position the coil and secure it with the attaching screws. Be sure to install
the carbon button and rubber disc first.
6. Install the coil cover and attaching screws.
7. Install the distributor cap.
8. Connect the wires to the cap.
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED COIL 1. Label and disconnect the wires from the coil.
2. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolts and the coil.
To install: 3. To install, position the coil into place and se cure it with the mounting
bolts.
4. Connect the wires to the coil.
IGNITION MODULE

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alternating current developed
within the stator windings to a direct (DC) current
at the output (BAT) terminal. Three of these diodes are negative and are
mounted flush with the end frame while t he other three are positive and are
mounted into a strip called a heat sink. The positive diodes are easily identified
as the ones within small cavities or depressions.
The alternator charging system is a negative (-) ground system which consists
of an alternator, a regulat or, a charge indicator, a storage battery and wiring
connecting the components, and fuse link wire.
The alternator is belt-driven from t he engine. Energy is supplied from the
alternator/regulator system to the rotati ng field through two brushes to two slip-
rings. The slip-rings are mounted on the rotor shaft and are connected t\
o the
field coil. This energy supplied to the ro tating field from the battery is called
excitation current and is used to init ially energize the field to begin the
generation of electricity. Once the alter nator starts to generate electricity, the
excitation current comes from its ow n output rather than the battery.
The alternator produces power in the form of alternating current. The alternating
current is rectified by 6 diodes into dire ct current. The direct current is used to
charge the battery and power the rest of the electrical system.
When the ignition key is turned ON, current flows from the battery, through the
charging system indicator light on the in strument panel, to the voltage regulator,
and to the alternator. Since the alternat or is not producing any current, the
alternator warning light comes on. When the engine is started, the alternator
begins to produce current and turns the alte rnator light off. As the alternator
turns and produces current, the current is divided in two ways: part to the
battery(to charge the battery and power the electrical components of the
vehicle), and part is returned to the alte rnator (to enable it to increase its
output). In this situation, the alternator is receiving current from the battery and
from itself. A voltage regulat or is wired into the current supply to the alternator
to prevent it from receiving too much cu rrent which would cause it to put out too
much current. Conversely, if the voltage regulator does not allow the alternator
to receive enough current, the battery will not be fully charged and will
eventually go dead.
The battery is connected to the alternator at all times, whether the ignition key is
turned ON or not. If the battery were shorted to ground, the alternator would
also be shorted. This woul d damage the alternator. To prevent this, a fuse link
is installed in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. If the battery is
shorted, the fuse link melts, protecting the alternator.
An alternator is better that a convent ional, DC shunt generator because it is
lighter and more compact, because it is designed to supply the battery and
accessory circuits through a wide range of engine speeds, and because it
eliminates the necessary maintenance of replacing brushes and servicing
commutators.
PRECAUTIONS

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 362
OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT
Replace the sending unit by disconnecting
the electrical connector and using a
special socket to remove it.
ENGINE

MECHANICAL ENGINE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps
which call for the removal of a separ ate component or system, such as
"disconnect the exhaust system " or "remove the radiator." In most instances, a
detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this repair guide.
It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be
disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine
combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common
sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine ca n be made easier if you follow these
basic points:
• If you have to drain any of the fl uids, use a suitable container.
• Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they
came from before disconnecting them.
• Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label
the retainers from com ponents separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee
cans. This will prevent conf usion during installation.
• After unbolting the transmission or trans axle, always make sure it is
properly supported.
• If it is necessary to disconnect t he air conditioning system, have this
service performed by a qualified tec hnician using a recovery/recycling
station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the
compressor and set it aside.
• When unbolting the engine mounts, a lways make sure the engine is
properly supported. When removing t he engine, make sure that any
lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended
that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be
attached to them.
• Lift the engine from its compartment sl owly, checking that no hoses,
wires or other component s are still connected.
• After the engine is clear of the compar tment, place it on an engine stand
or workbench.
• After the engine has been removed, y ou can perform a partial or full
teardown of the engine using the procedur es outlined in this repair guide.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 365
31. Connect the bulkhead harness connec
tor, wires and hoses. Reroute the
ECM harness in its original location. Install the hush panel and fenderwell
splash panel.
32. Install the radiator, fan and fan sh roud. Connect the radiator and heater
hoses, along with the transmission cooler lines.
33. Connect the vacuum brake booster li ne, the throttle linkage and cruise
control cable. Install the distributor cap.
34. Fill the cooling system with the proper type and amount of coolant and
the crankcase with the proper type of oil to the correct level.
35. Install the water pump drive bel t, the air cleaner duct and the hood.
36. Connect the negative battery cable, st art the engine and check for leaks.
2.8L AND 3.1L ENGINES

Fig. 2: Engine mountin g points for the V6
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner duct.
3. Mark the hood location on the hood supports and remove the hood.
4. Remove the water pump drive belt.
5. Drain the radiator and remove t he radiator hoses. Disconnect the heater
hoses and the transmission cooler lines.
6. Remove the fan shroud, fan and radiator.
7. Disconnect the throttle linkage, includi ng the cruise control detent cable.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 366
8. Remove the air conditioning co
mpressor and lay aside. Remove the
power steering pump and lay aside.
Do not disconnect the air conditioning or power steering lines.
9. Remove the vacuum brake booster line.
10. Remove the distributor cap and spark plug wires.
11. Disconnect the necessary elec trical connections and hoses.
12. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
13. Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifolds.
14. Remove the flywheel cover and remove the converter bolts.
15. Disconnect the star ter wire connections.
16. Remove the bellhousing and t he motor mount through-bolts.
17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Relieve the fuel system pressu re. Disconnect the fuel lines.
19. Support the transmission with a suit able jack. Attach an engine lifting
device.
20. Remove the engine assembly.
To install: 21. Position the engine assembly in the vehicle.
22. Attach the motor mount to engine br ackets and lower the engine in place.
Remove the engine lifting device and the transmission jack.
23. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
24. Install the motor mount through-bolts and tighten the nuts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm). Install the bellhousing bolts and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
25. On vehicles with automatic transmissi on, install the converter to flywheel
attaching bolts to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm).
26. Install the flywheel splash shield and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
27. Connect the starter wires and the fuel lines.
28. Install the exhaust pipe on the exhaust manifold.
29. Lower the vehicle.
30. Install the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor.
31. Connect the necessary wires and hoses.
32. Install the radiator, fan and fan sh roud. Connect the radiator and heater
hoses and the transmission cooler lines.
33. Connect the vacuum brake booster li ne, the throttle linkage and cruise
control cable. Install the distributor cap.
34. Fill the cooling system with the proper type and amount of coolant and
the crankcase with the proper type of oil to the correct level.
35. Install the water pump drive bel t, the air cleaner duct and the hood.
36. Connect the negative battery cable, st art the engine and check for leaks.