GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 466
wear. Worn piston rings, scored or wo
rn cylinder bores, blown head gaskets,
sticking or burnt valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits. A check
of each cylinder's compression will help locate the problem.
A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate than the type you simply
hold against the spark plug hole. Although it takes slightly longer to use, it's
worth the effort to obtain a more accurate reading.
1. Make sure that the proper amount and viscosity of engine oil is in the
crankcase, then ensure the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operat ing temperature, then shut the
engine OFF.
3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug wires from the plugs.
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder h ead area around the spark plug ports,
then remove the spark plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-open throttle) position. You
can block the accelerator linkage open for this, or you can have an
assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal.
Fig. 1: A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate and easier to use
without an assistant
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge into the No. 1 spark plug hole
until the fitting is snug.
WARNING - Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug hole.
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 468
7. Compare your hot oil pressure reading
to that given in the chart. If the
reading is low, check the cold pressu re reading against the chart. If the
cold pressure is well above the spec ification, and the hot reading was
lower than the specificat ion, you may have the wr ong viscosity oil in the
engine. Change the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and
quantity, then repeat the test.
Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to internal component wear, pump
related problems, a low oil leve l, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil pressure
readings could be caused by an overfilled crankcase, too high of an oil viscosity
or a faulty pressure relief valve.
BUY OR REBUILD?
Now that you have determined that your engine is worn out, you must make
some decisions. The question of whether or not an engine is worth rebuilding is
largely a subjective matter and one of per sonal worth. Is the engine a popular
one, or is it an obsolete model? Are parts available? Will it get acceptable gas
mileage once it is rebuilt? Is the car it's being put into worth keeping? Would it
be less expensive to buy a new engine, have your engine rebuilt by a pro,
rebuild it yourself or buy a used engine from a salvage yard? Or would it be
simpler and less expensive to buy another car? If you have considered all these
matters and more, and have still decided to r ebuild the engine, then it is time to
decide how you will rebuild it.
The editors of this information feel that most engine machining should be
performed by a professional machine shop. Don't think of it as wasting money,
rather, as an assurance that the job has been done right the first time. There
are many expensive and spec ialized tools required to perform such tasks as
boring and honing an engine block or having a valve job done on a cylinder
head. Even inspecting the parts requires expensive micrometers and gauges to
properly measure wear and clearances. Al so, a machine shop can deliver to
you clean, and ready to assemble parts, saving you time and aggravation. Your
maximum savings will come from perf orming the removal, disassembly,
assembly and installation of the engine and purchasing or renting only the tools
required to perform the above tasks. Depending on the particular
circumstances, you may save 40 to 60 perc ent of the cost doing these yourself.
A complete rebuild or overhaul of an engine involves replacing all of the moving
parts (pistons, rods, crankshaft, camsha ft, etc.) with new ones and machining
the non-moving wearing surfaces of t he block and heads. Unfortunately, this
may not be cost effective. For instanc e, your crankshaft may have been
damaged or worn, but it can be machined undersize for a minimal fee.
So, as you can see, you can replace ev erything inside the engine, but, it is
wiser to replace only those parts whic h are really needed, and, if possible,
repair the more expensive ones. Later in this section, we will break the engine
down into its two main components: t he cylinder head and the engine block. We
will discuss each component, and the re commended parts to replace during a
rebuild on each.
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 776
Use only oil which has the API (Ameri
can Petroleum Institute) designation SG,
CC , CD , SG/CC or SG/CD .
Since fuel economy is effected by the viscosity (thickness) of the engine oil, it is
recommended to select an oil with reference to the outside temperature. For
satisfactory lubrication, us e a lower viscosity oil for colder temperatures and a
higher viscosity oil for warmer temperatures.
ENGINE
OIL LEVEL CHECK
Fig. 1: Wipe the dipstick clean and insert it into the dipstick tube, making sure it
is fully inserted
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 778
Fig. 4: Add clean oil to the engine to ac hieve the correct level, indicated on
dipstick. Do not overfill
Your engine oil should be checked at regular intervals (such as every fuel stop).
Check the engine oil as follows:
1. Make sure the car is parked on level ground.
2. When checking the oil le vel it is best for the engine to be at normal
operating temperature, although checking the oil immediately after
stopping will lead to a false reading. Wa it a few minutes after turning off
the engine to allow the oil to drain back into the crankcase.
3. Open the hood and locate the dipsti ck which should be on either the
passenger's side for the V8 engine or driver's side for the L4 and V6
engines. Pull the dipstick fr om its tube, wipe it clean and then reinsert it.
4. Pull the dipstick out agai n and, holding it horizontally, read the oil level.
The oil should be between the FULL and ADD marks on the dipstick. If
the oil is below the ADD mark, add oil of the prop er viscosity through the
capped opening in the top of the cylinder head cover.
5. Replace the dipstick and check the o il level again after adding any oil. Be
careful not to overfill the crankcase. Approximately 1 quart (0.9L) of oil
will raise the level from the ADD mark to the FULL mark. Excess oil will
generally be consumed at an accelerated rate.
