1982 CHEVROLET CAMARO wiring

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 641
If, however, there is no spark or a weak
spark, then further ignition system
testing will have to be done. Troubleshooting techniques fall into various
categories, depending on t he nature of the problem and the system being
tested. Categories will include symptom s such as the engine cranks, but will not
start or the engine runs rough.
HEI SYSTEM
When testing the HEI system, there are 2 major categories of problems, (1)
Engine cranks, but will not star t or (2) Engine runs, but runs rough or cuts out.
If the engine will not start, perform a spar k test as described earlier. This will
narrow the problem area down considerab ly. If no spark occurs, check for the
presence of normal battery voltage at the battery ( BAT) terminal on the ignition
coil. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a
voltmeter or a test light wire may be us ed for this test. Connect the test light
wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the coil. If the light
comes on, you have voltage to the distribut or and/or spark plug wires. If the light
fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring
leading to the distributor. In this case , you will have to check wiring continuity
back to the ignition switch using a test li ght. If there is battery voltage at the BAT
terminal, but no spark at the plugs, t hen the problem probably lies within the
distributor assembly.
If, on the other hand, the engine starts, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure
the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or
breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the
wires with a probe. Check the chart for th e correct plug wire resistance. If the
plug wires are OK, remove the cap asse mbly and check for moisture, cracks,
chips, or carbon tracks, or any other hi gh voltage leads or failures. Replace the
cap if any defects are found. Make su re the timer wheel rotates when the
engine is cranked.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to t he units within the distributor, the
following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with
both high and low ranges shou ld be used. These tests are made with the cap
assembly removed and the battery wir e disconnected. If a tachometer is
connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
IGNITION COIL
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED 1. Disconnect the coil wires and se t the ohmmeter on the high scale.
2. Connect the ohmmeter to the ignition co il as illustrated in Step 1 of the
accompanying figure.
3. The ohmmeter should read near infinite or very high.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 652
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
MODULE
It is not necessary to remove t he distributor from the vehicle.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and pickup coil.
3. Remove the 2 module attaching screws and lift the module up. Remove
the leads from the module, observi ng the colors on each lead. These
leads can not be interchanged.
If the module is to be reused, do not wi pe the grease from the module or the
distributor base. If a new module is to be installed, a package of silicone grease
will be included with it. Spr ead the grease on the metal face of the module and
on the distributor base wher e the module seats. This grease is necessary for
module cooling.
To install: 4. Install the module, tighten the reta ining screws and connect the wiring.
5. Install the distributor rotor and distributor cap.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. 7: Ignition coil module mounting - always coat the base with silicone
dielectric grease.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 733
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
An accurate digital voltmeter is
needed to perform this adjustment.
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Disconnect the TPS electrical connector.
3. Install three jumper wires betwe en the TPS and the TPS wiring terminal
connections.
4. Turn the ignition ON, engine stopped, measure the voltage between
terminals B and C.
5. The display should read between 0.45-0.60 volts.
6. Loosen the screws and rotate the TPS to obtain the correct voltage, if necessary.
7. Tighten the TPS screws and turn the i gnition OFF. Remove the jumpers.
8. Reconnect the wir ing to the TPS.
9. Install the air cleaner.

Fig. 5: TPS adjustment
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The removal and installation procedures fo r the Crossfire injection system's fuel
pressure regulator is identical to t he Throttle Body Injection (TBI) system.
Please refer to the TBI fuel pressure r egulator procedures earlier in this repair
guide.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
3. Remove the TPS attaching screws and lockwashers.
4. Remove the TPS.
To install:

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3. Make sure the ignition switch has
been in the OFF position for at least 10
seconds and that all accessories are OFF.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and the pump will run for about 2 seconds.
Note the system pressure with t he pump running, it should be between
40-47 psi.
The ignition switch may have to be cycled to the ON position more than once to
obtain maximum pressure. It is also norma l for the pressure to drop slightly
when the pump first stops, but it should then hold steady.
5. If the pressure is not as specified, verify that fuel pump operation is
heard in the tank.
6. If fuel pump operation is not heard, inspect the fuel pump relay and
wiring.
7. If fuel pump operation is heard, inspect the filter and lines for restriction.
8. Start the engine and make sure the pr essure decreases about 3-10 psi at
idle.
9. If fuel pressure does not decrease, inspect the fuel pressure regulator
and hose.
10. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge.
THROTTLE BODY
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery c able and partially drain the radiator.
2. Remove the air inlet duct and unplug the IAC and TPS electrical connectors.
3. Label and disconnect the vacuum and coolant lines.
4. Disconnect the accelerator, thro ttle valve (transmission control) and
cruise control cables, as applicable.
5. Remove the throttle body attaching bolts, then separate the throttle body from the plenum.
6. Discard the gasket.
To install: 7. Install the throttle body to the plenum using a new gasket. Tighten the \
bolts to specification.
8. Engage the accelerator, throttle valve and cruise control cables, as
necessary. Make sure that the link ages do not hold the throttle open.
9. Connect the vacuum and coolant lines.
10. Install the air inlet duct and plug the IAC and TPS electrical connectors
into their sockets.
11. Connect the negative (-) battery cable and refill the radiator.
12. With the engine OFF, check to s ee that the accelerator pedal is free.
Depress the pedal to the floor and release.

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THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the electrical connector from the sensor.
3. Remove the attaching screws, lockw ashers and retainers. Some models
use a seal between the throttle body and the sensor, do not lose this! \
4. Remove the throttle position sensor.
To install: 5. Install the throttle position sensor seal, if applicable.
6. With the throttle valve in the norma l closed idle position, install the
sensor on the throttle body assembly. Make sure the sensor pickup lever
is properly located on the th rottle actuator lever.
7. Install the retainers, screws and lockwashers using a thread locking
compound. On models up to 1989, DO NOT tighten the screws until the
sensor is adjusted. Follow the procedures outlined earli er in this section.
COLD START VALVE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Remove the intake manifold plenum.
4. Unplug the electrical connection.
5. Clean the fuel rail around the cold start valve tube fitting.
6. Remove the tube fitting from t he fuel rail. Use a backup wrench to
prevent it from turning.
7. Remove the cold start valve retain ing bolt and remove the valve from the
intake manifold.
To install: 8. Use new O-rings and install the valve and bolt.
9. Connect the wiring harness.
10. Connect the cold start tube at the f uel rail. Use a wrench to prevent it
from turning.
11. Install the intake manifold plenum.
12. Connect the negative battery cable. With the engine OFF and the ignition
ON, check for fuel leaks.

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GENERAL INFORMATION & MAINTENANCE

HOW TO USE THIS INFORMATION
The introductory part of this repair gui de is intended to help you learn more
about the inner workings of your Camaro while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the repair guide will likely be referred to the most, since that is
where you will find information for maintenance and tune-up. The other
information deals with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Systems
(from engine through brakes) are covered to the extent that the average do-it-
yourselfer can attempt. This repair guide will not explain such things as
rebuilding a differential because the ex pertise required and the special tools
necessary make this uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed
instructions to help you change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark
plugs, and perform many more jobs that can save you money and help avoid
expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this repair guide is a reference for owners who want to
understand their vehicle and/or their mechanics better.
WHERE TO BEGIN
Before removing any bolts, read through t he entire procedure. This will give you
the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required. So read ahead and
plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures
thoroughly understood before attempting any work.
If repair of a component is not considered practical, we tell you how to remove
the part and then how to insta ll the new or rebuilt replacement. In this way, you
at least save labor costs.
AVOIDING TROUBLE
Many procedures in this repair guide r equire you to "label and disconnect ..." a
group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be think you can remember where
everything goes - you won't. If you hook up va cuum or fuel lines incorrectly, the
vehicle may run poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don't need to know the proper name for each hose or line. A piece of
masking tape on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to assign your
own label. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be
reconnected by matching your tags. Re member that tape will dissolve in
gasoline or solvents; if a part is to be washed or cleaned, use another method
of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe can be very
handy for marking metal parts. Remove any tape or paper labels after
assembly.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 766
In addition to the above it
ems there are several others that are not absolutely
necessary, but handy to have around. These include an equivalent oil
absorbent gravel, like cat litter, and the usual supply of lubricants, antifreeze
and fluids. This is a basic list for rout ine maintenance, but only your personal
needs and desire can accurately determine your list of tools.
After performing a few projects on the vehi cle, you'll be amazed at the other
tools and non-tools on your workbench. Some useful household items are: a
large turkey baster or siphon, empty coff ee cans and ice trays (to store parts), a
ball of twine, electrical t ape for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging
lines or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for plugging vacuum
lines), metal coat hangers or a roll of mechanic's wire (to hold things out of the
way), dental pick or similar long, poi nted probe, a strong magnet, and a small
mirror (to see into rece sses and under manifolds).

Fig. 7: Although not always necessary, us ing specialized brake tools will save
time

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 771
A more advanced set of tools, suit
able for tune-up work, can be drawn up
easily. While the tools are slightly more sophisticated, they need not be
outrageously expensive. There are severa l inexpensive tach/dwell meters on
the market that are every bit as good for the average mechanic as a
professional model. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500 rpm on the
tach scale and that it works on 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines. The key to these
purchases is to make them with an eye towards adaptability and wide range. A
basic list of tune-up tools could include:
• Tach/dwell meter.
• Spark plug wrench and gapping tool.
• Feeler gauges for valve adjustment.
• Timing light.
The choice of a timing light should be made carefully. A light which works on the
DC current supplied by the vehicle's battery is the best choice; it should have a
xenon tube for brightness. On any vehi cle with an electronic ignition system, a
timing light with an inductive pickup that clamps around the No. 1 spark plug
cable is preferred.
In addition to these basic tools, ther e are several other tools and gauges you
may find useful. These include:
• Compression gauge. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates
the possibility of a faulty r eading due to escaping pressure.
• Manifold vacuum gauge.
• 12V test light.
• A combination volt/ohmmeter
• Induction Ammeter. This is used for determining whether or not there is
current in a wire. These are handy fo r use if a wire is broken somewhere
in a wiring harness.
As a final note, you will probably find a torque wrench necessary for all but the
most basic work. The beam type models are perfectly adequate, although the
newer click types (breakaway) are eas ier to use. The click type torque
wrenches tend to be more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of torque
wrenches should be periodically checked a nd/or recalibrated. You will have to
decide for yourself which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.
SPECIAL TOOLS
Normally, the use of special factory tool s is avoided for repair procedures, since
these are not readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic. When it is
possible to perform the job with more co mmonly available tools, it will be
pointed out, but occasionally, a special t ool was designed to perform a specific
function and should be used. Before s ubstituting another tool, you should be
convinced that neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle will be
compromised.