
02-02-27
Brake System
02-02-27
4.
Connect the stop light switch
wires to the connector, and install the
wires in the retaining clip.
5.
Torque the booster mounting
nuts to specifications.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Removal
1.
Disconnect the battery ground
cable from the battery.
2.
It is necessary to obtain clear-
ance to remove vacuum hoses and the
electrical connector to the temperature
heat control box. Remove the two
screws retaining the relay to the fend-
er and push the relay aside. Discon-
nect the vacuum hoses and connector
at the heat control box.
3.
Working under the instrument
panel, disconnect the vacuum hoses,
wires and retaining clip from the tem-
perature heat control box. Remove the
two screws securing the temperature
control box to the dash panel.
4.
Remove the lower control hous-
ing retaining screws (6). Disconnect
the wire harnesses at the lower control
panel and place the panel aside. Re-
move the wire harness shield. Remove
the wire harness clip. Position the
wire harness aside. Remove the tem-
perature control box and position it
aside.
5.
Remove the hair-pin type retain-
er. Slide the stop light switch off the
brake pedal pin just far enough for
the switch outer hole to clear the pin.
Lift the switch upward from the pin.
Slide the master cylinder push rod,
nylon washers and bushing off the
brake pedal pin.
6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut
that holds the pedal to the pedal sup-
port bracket. Remove the brake pedal
assembly from the support bracket
and remove the bushings.
7.
If required, remove the brake
pedal pad retaining nuts and remove
the brake pedal pad.
Installation
1.
If the brake pedal pad was re-
moved, position the pad on the pedal.
Install the pad retaining nuts and tor-
que them to specification.
2.
Apply SAE 10 engine oil to the
bushings and locate all the bushings in
their proper places on the pedal as-
sembly.
3.
Install the brake pedal assembly
and bushings to the support bracket,
and then install the pivot bolt through
the support bracket and pedal assem-
bly. Install the pivot bolt nut and tor-
que it to specification.
4.
Install the inner nylon washer,the
master cylinder push rod link, and the
bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-
tion the switch so that it straddles the
push rod link with the switch slot on
the pedal and the switch outer hole
just clearing the pin. Install the outer
nylon washer as shown in Fig. 33. In-
stall the hair-pin type retainer on the
brake pedal pin.
5.
Connect the stop light switch
wires to the connector, and install the
wires in the retaining clip.
6. Position the wire harness and
clip on the temperature control box
and install the retaining screw. Posi-
tion the temperature control box to
the dash panel and install the two re-
taining bolts.
7.
Connect the vacuum lines and
the electrical connector to the control
box. Position the wire harness to the
control box and install the retaining
clip.
8. Position the wire harness shield
and install two retaining bolts.
9. Connect the wire harnesses to
the lower control panel and install the
retaining screws.
10.
Working within the engine
compartment, connect the wire con-
nector to the temperature heat control
box.
11.
Position the relay to the fender
apron and install the retaining bolts.
12.
Connect the ground cable to the
battery.
13.
Check the brakes and light
switch for proper operation. Close the
hood.
PARKING BRAKE CONTROL
ASSEMBLY
FORD, MERCURY
AND METEOR
Removal
Refer to Fig. 34.
1.
Make sure the parking brake is
fully released.
2.
Remove all tension from the rear
cables by backing off the adjusting nut
from the equalizer.
3.
Remove the roll pin that secures
the release knob to the cable and re-
move the knob.
4.
Remove the nut that secures the
release cable to the instrument panel
and remove the cable from the rear of
the instrument panel.
5.
Remove the two nuts attaching
the control assembly to the dash
panel.
6. Remove the cap screw attaching
the control assembly to the cowl side
bracket.
7.
Disconnect the hose to the park-
ing brake vacuum unit, if so equipped.
8. Remove the front cable assembly
retainer clip from the cable assembly
and disconnect the cable ball from the
control clevis.
9. Remove the control assembly
from the vehicle.
Installation
1.
Position the control assembly in
the vehicle.
2.
Fit the cable assembly through
its mounting hole and install the re-
taining clip. Connect the cable ball to
the control clevis.
3.
Connect the vacuum hose to the
parking brake unit, if so equipped.
4.
Install the attaching cap screw to
the cowl side bracket. Do not tighten.
5.
Install the two control assemb-
ly-to-dash panel nuts. Tighten the nuts
and the cap screw to specifications.
6. Insert the release cable into the
instrument panel and install the re-
taining nut.
7.
Install the release knob on the
cable with the roll pin.
8. Check the operation of the park-
ing brake. Adjust the parking brake
as required.
FAIRLANE, MONTEGO
AND FALCON
Removal
Refer to Fig. 35.
1.
Make sure the parking brake is
completely released.
2.
Remove all tension from the rear
cables by backing off the jam nut and
adjusting nut from the equalizer.
3.
Working inside the vehicle, re-
move the four bolts and one nut re-
taining the left air vent and cable as-
sembly to the dash and instrument
panels. Remove the vent assembly.
4.
Remove the parking brake front
cable ball retaining clip from the clev-
is.
5.
Disconnect the cable ball from
the notch in the brake clevis.
6. Remove the three screws that at-
tach the control assembly to the left
cowl inner side panel.procarmanuals.com

02-02-39
Brake System
02-02-39
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
Minor scores on a brake drum can
be removed with sandpaper. A drum
that is excessively scored or shows a
total indicator runout of over 0.007
inch should be turned down. Remove
only enough stock to eliminate the
scores and true up the drum. The refi-
nished diameter must not exceed 0.060
inch oversize.
Check the inside diameter of the
brake drum with a brake drum mi-
crometer (Tool FRE-14^1).
If the drum diameter is less than
0.030 inch oversize after refinishing^
standard lining may be installed. If
the drum diameter is 0.030—0.060
inch oversize after refinishing, oversize
lining must be installed.
After a drum is turned down, wipe
the refinished surface with a cloth
soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If
one drum is turned down, the opposite
drum on the same axle should also be
cut down to the same size.
ROTOR REFINISHING
Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment,
FRE-2249-2, is the only recommended
tool to refinish the disc brake rotors.
The step-by-step resurfacing procedure
provided with the tool must be ad-
hered to.
The finished braking surfaces of the
rotor must be flat and parallel within
0.0007 inch; lateral runout must not
exceed 0.003 inch total indicator read-
ing, and the surface finish of the brak-
ing surfaces are to be 80/15 micro
inches. The minimum limiting dimen-
sions (Figs. 11 and 12, Part 2-1) from
the inboard bearing cup to the out-
board rotor face and from the inboard
bearing cup to the inboard rotor face
must be observed when removing ma-
terial from the rotor braking surfaces.
On all models except Lincoln Con-
tinental, the limiting dimensions are to
be measured with a ball and gage bar
(Rotunda Kit FRE-70160).
BRAKE SHOE RELINING
Brake linings that are worn to with-
in 1/32 inch of the rivet head or are
less than 0.030 inch thick (bonded lin-
ing) or have been contaminated with
brake fluid, grease or oil must be re-
placed. Failure to replace worn linings
will result in a scored drum. When it
is necessary to replace linings, they
must also be replaced on the wheel on
the opposite side of the vehicle.
Inspect brake shoes for distortion,
cracks, or looseness. If this condition
exists,
the shoe must be discarded. Do
not attempt to repair a defective brake
shoe.
1.
Wash the brake shoes thoroughly
in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs
or rough spots from the shoes.
2.
Check the inside diameter of the
brake drum with a brake drum mi-
crometer (tool FRE-1431). If the di-
ameter is less than 0.030 inches over-
size,
standard lining may be installed.
If the diameter is 0.030—0.060 inches
oversize, oversize lining should be in-
stalled.
3.
Position the new lining on the
shoe.
Starting in the center, insert and
secure the rivets, working alternately
towards each end. Replacement lin-
ings are ground and no further grind-
ing is required.
4.
Check the clearance between the
shoe and lining. The lining must seat
tightly against the shoe with not more
than 0.008 inch clearance between any
two rivets.
RETAINER - 2B245
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER
DISASSEMBLY
1.
Clean the outside of the master
cylinder and remove the filler cover
and diaphragm. Pour out any brake
fluid that remains in the cylinder. Dis-
card the old brake fluid.
2.*
Remove the secondary piston
stop bolt from the bottom of the cyl-
inder (Figs. 40 and 41).
3.
Remove the bleed screw, iL re-
quired.
4.
Depress the primary piston and
remove the snap ring from the retain-
ing groove at the rear of the master
cylinder bore (Fig. 42). Remove the
push rod and the primary piston as-
sembly from the master cylinder bore.
Do not remove the screw that retains
the primary return spring retainer, re-
turn spring, primary cup and protec-
tor on the primary piston. This assem-
bly is factory pre-adjusted and should
not be disassembled.
5.
Remove the secondary piston as-
sembly. Do not remove the outlet tube
seats,
outlet check valves and outlet
SECONDARY SYSTEM
BRAKE OUTLET
COVER -2166
GASKET-2167
MASTER CYLINDER -2155
SNAP RING -7821
BOOT
PUSH ROD
PRIMARY PISTON
ASSEMBLY - 2169
tTUBE SEAT-
2B220
* SECONDARY PISTON
ASSEMBLY - 2A502
• NOT USED ON POWER BRAKE EQUIPPED VEHICLES
fNOT SERVICED
•REPLACE AS AN ASSEMBLY ONLY
H 1499-B
FIG. 40— Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Except Disc Brakesprocarmanuals.com

02-02-41
Brake System
02-02-41
bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the
master cylinder.
8. Install the bleed screw (if so
equipped). Install the gasket (dia-
phragm) in the master cylinder filler
cover. Position the gasket as shown in
Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket
is securely seated.
9. Install the cover and gasket on
the master cylinder and secure the
cover into position with the retainer.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ALL MODELS EXCEPT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Disassembly
1.
Remove the caliper assembly
from the vehicle as outlined in Section
2.
2.
Remove the caliper locating pins
from the caliper assembly and lift the
anchor plate from the caliper.
3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-
ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.
43).
4.
Remove the two retaining pins,
then remove the outer brake shoe
from the caliper.
5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-
ward until it is free of the hold-down
springs, then remove the brake shoe.
6. Apply air pressure to the fluid
port in the caliper with a rubber
tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as
shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.
Place a cloth over the piston before
applying air pressure to prevent dam-
age to the piston. If the piston is
seized and cannot be forced from the
FIBER
BLOCK
CALIPER
PISTON
H 1574-B
FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From
Caliper —
All
Models Except
Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston
while applying air pressure. Care
should be taken because the piston
can develop considerable force due to
pressure build-up.
7.
Remove the dust boot from the
caliper assembly.
8. Remove the rubber piston seal
from the cylinder and discard it.
Cleaning and Inspection
Clean all metal parts with isopropyl
alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use
clean, dry, compressed air to clean out
and dry the grooves and passage ways.
Be sure that the caliper bore and com-
ponent parts are completely free of
any foreign material.
Check the cylinder bore and piston
for damage or excessive wear. Replace
the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the
chrome plating is worn off.
Assembly
1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid
to the new caliper piston seal and in-
stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure
the seal does not become twisted and
that it is seated fully in the groove.
2.
Install a new dust boot by setting
the flange squarely in the outer groove
of the caliper bore.
3.
Coat the piston with the speci-
fied fluid and install the piston in the
cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot
over the piston as it is installed. Seat
the dust boot in the piston groove.
4.
Position the inner brake shoe so
that the ears of the shoe rests on the
top of the anchor plate bosses and be-
neath the hold-down springs.
5.
Install new caliper locating pin
insulators in the anchor plate.
6. Position the caliper on the an-
chor plate.
7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol
to the caliper locating pins and install
them loosely in the anchor plate. Be
sure the guide pins are free of oil,
grease or dirt.
8. Install the caliper on the spindle
as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper
Assembly.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Disassembly
Do not remove the bridge bolts that
hold the two halves of the caliper to-
gether. The two caliper housings are
shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-
tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly
from the car as outlined in Section 2.
2.
Remove the two attaching bolts
and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).
3.
Remove the two shoe and lining
assemblies.
4.
Remove the flexible brake hose
from the caliper.
5.
Remove the external transfer
tube.
6. Remove the four dust boots from
the caliper housings and piston
grooves.
7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and
secure it by the mounting flanges on
the inboard housing (Fig. 45).
8. Remove the four pistons from
the cylinder bores with the special tool
shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking
with consequent damage to the piston
or bore, rotate the piston with the tool
while pulling it outward at the same
time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or
damaging the outside diameter surface
or dust boot retaining groove of the
piston. Such damage causes poor seal-
ing.
If a piston is so completely seized in
the cylinder bore that it can not be re-
moved with the special tool, the cali-
per housing must be replaced, by posi-
tioning two screwdrivers in the piston
dust boot retaining groove and prying
outward. To prevent cocking, tap the
end of the piston lightly around the
circumference with a hammer, while
the prying force is being applied. Be
careful to avoid damaging the dust
boot retainer in the caliper housing
(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is
used, the pistons must be replaced.
If the caliper dust boot retainer or
retaining groove is damaged or
scratched, pry the retainer out of the
caliper housing with screwdrivers.
Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A
H 1652-A
FIG. 45—Removing or Installing
Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-09
the reading exceeds specifications
(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball
joint.
LOWER BALL JOINT
INSPECTION
Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,
Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental
and Continental Mark III
1.
Raise the vehicle and place
jacks under the lower arms as shown
in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower
ball joints.
2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-
cribed in Part 3-12.
3.
Attach a dial indicator to the
lower arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the
inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to
the lower ball joint.
4.
Grasp the tire at the top and
bottom and slowly move the tire in
and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading
(radial play) on the dial indicator. If
the reading exceeds specifications
(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball
joint.
Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,
Montego, Mustang
1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame
contact hoist or by floor jacks placed
beneath the underbody until the wheel
falls to the full down position.
2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the
lower edge of the tire and move the
wheel in and out.
3.
As the wheel is being moved in
and out, observe the lower end of the
spindle and the lower arm.
4.
Any movement between the
lower end of the spindle and the lower
arm indicates ball joint wear and loss
of preload. If any such movement is
observed, replace the lower arm.
During the foregoing check, the
upper ball joint will be unloaded and
may move. Disregard all such move-
ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do
not mistake loose wheel bearings for a
worn ball joint.
POWER STEERING GEAR
CLEANING
Disassembly and assembly of the
steering gear and. the sub-assemblies
must be made on a clean workbench.
As in repairing any hydraulically op-
erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and
parts must be kept clean at all times.
Thoroughly clean the exterior of the
unit with a suitable solvent and, when
necessary drain as much of the hy-
draulic fluid as possible. Handle all
parts very carefully to avoid nicks,
burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could
make the parts unfit for use.
Do not clean, wash or soak seals in
cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
1.
Check the sector shaft contact
surface in the cover for wear. If worn,
replace the cover.
2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing
for cracked races and the balls for
looseness, wear, pitting, end play or
other damage. Check the fit of the
bearing on the input shaft. Replace
the bearing, if required.
3.
Inspect the valve housing for
wear, scoring or burrs.
4.
Inspect the tube seats in the
pressure and return ports in the valve
body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-
move and replace.
5.
Check the sector shaft contact
surface in the housing for wear. If
worn, replace the bushing or the hous-
ing.
6. Check all fluid passages for ob-
struction or leakage.
7.
Inspect the steering gear housing
for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-
ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-
ton bore of the housing for scoring or
wear. If necessary, replace the hous-
ing.
8. Check the input shaft bearing
after installation to be sure that it ro-
tates freely.
9. If the valve spool is not free in
the valve housing, check for burrs at
the outward edges of the working
lands in the housing and remove with
a hard stone. Check the valve spool
for burrs and if burrs are found, stone
the valve in a radial direction only.
Check for freedom of the valve again.
10.
Check the piston rack teeth and
sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.
FLUSHING THE POWER
STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
Should it be necessary to replace an
inoperative power steering pump, the
need for flushing the steering system
is required when installing the new
pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump
and remove the pulley as outlined in
Part 3-10.
2.
Install the pulley on a new
pump. Install the pump and connect
only the pressure hose to the pump
(Part 3-10).
3.
Place the fluid return line in a
suitable container and plug the reser-
voir return pipe.
4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant
(C1AZ-19582-A).
5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-
vent the engine from starting and raise
the front wheels off the ground.
6. While approximately two quarts
of steering gear fluid are being poured
into the reservoir, turn the engine over
using the ignition key, at the same
time cycle the steering wheel from
stop to stop.
7.
As soon as all of the lubricant
has been poured in, turn off the igni-
tion key, and attach the coil wire.
8. Remove the plug from the reser-
voir return pipe, and attach the return
hose to the reservoir.
9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if
low, add fluid to the proper level. Do
not overfill.
10.
Lower the vehicle.
11.
Start the engine and cycle the
steering from stop to stop to expel
any trapped air from the system.
POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL
EXCEPT LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
CLEANING
Wash all parts (except seals) in a
Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent
and dry with compressed air.
Punch or Rod
RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER
G1607-A
FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-10
The following procedure should be
followed when cleaning the relief valve
which is a part of the pump valve as-
sembly.
1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable
diameter, apply an even pressure in a
straight line to the tip of the relief
valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve
two or three times to exhaust the oil
which is trapped in the assembly. Do
not hammer on the valve pin or hous-
ing.
2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-
tainer of clean solvent. Again applying
an even pressure to the tip of the relief
valve pin, (a sudden strong force could
push the pin through the relief valve
spool) move the valve in and out sev-
eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing
the assembly. Pressure created within
the valve bore when the valve is moved
inward should force the cleaning fluid
out through the sensing orifice. If this
does not occur, the sensing orifice
should be cleaned with a piece of wire.
The valve must move freely and even-
ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if
the valve binds, the pump valve must
be replaced.
INSPECTION
The following describes the compo-
nents of the power steering pump
which must be replaced regardless of
condition and how to determine when
other components should be replaced.
The outlet fitting hex nut may be
reused if the corners of the hex are
not rounded. The housing bolts may
be reused if the threads are not dam-
aged.
All gaskets and seals must be re-
placed with new components except
the rotor shaft seal which should be
reused unless it was leaking.
The reservoir assembly may be
reused if the reservoir seal and gasket
areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-
es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-
turn and fill tubes must not be loose
or bent. Be sure to check for a broken
baffle.
The housing or housing assembly
may be reused if there is no damage
(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,
outlet fitting or cover seal areas.
If the outlet fitting is damaged, the
pump housing must be replaced. The
pressure plate springs may be reused
providing they are not bent, broken or
have not taken a set.
Do not reuse the retainer end plate
if it is burred or damaged. The upper
pressure plate may be reused if there
is no scoring on the wear surface. It is
acceptable to polish the phosphate
coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be
reused if there is no wear other than
the removal of the phosphate coating
on the cam contour. Do not disas-
semble the rotor and cam assembly.
Push the rotor part way out the cam
insert taking care not to let the slip-
pers and springs fall out. Check the
cam ID for scoring and burning.
Check the rotor faces and OD for
scoring and chipping. Do not attempt
to repair or refinish the lower and
upper pressure plates, cam or rotor
assembly. When wear or burning is
encountered, replace, them with new
components.
Install a new rotor and cam assem-
bly if the slippers are worn. Replace
the springs if they are bent or broken.
Polishing the phosphate coating of the
slipper sealing surface is permissable.
The rotor shaft can be reused if the
front and rear thrust faces, the bush-
ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-
ter are not excessively worn or scored.
The housing plate and bushing as-
sembly may be reused if all of the
threaded holes are not damaged
beyond repair and the bushing diame-
ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch
over the maximum dimension of .6897
inch. Threaded holes can be repaired
by drilling out the damaged threads
and installing a helicoil insert. If the
bushing is scored or excessively worn,
a new plate and bushing assembly
must be installed.
With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a
dial indicator) check the squareness of
the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.
21).
The pin must be square with the
adjacent surface within .001 inch per
inch through a 180 degree arch.
A bent or broken dowel pin can be
replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a
horizontal position and grip at least
an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap
the plate with a plastic or a rubber
hammer to pull the pin from the
plate.
2.
Insert the support guide (Tool
T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.
22) and press the pin into the plate to
a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).
The support guide tool will serve as a
stop guide. Be careful not to bend the
new dowel pin during installation.
3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A
(with a dial indicaator) to check the
dowel pin squareness as outlined
above.
POWER STEERING PUMP
INSPECTION—LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent
and dry them with clean cloths or
compressed air.
2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,
scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the
shaft if it is damaged or if the inner
keyway is damaged.
Tool
T69P-3D608-B
G1609-A
FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion
Tool
T69P-3D608-A
G1608-A
FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness
Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com

03-02-02
Suspension
03-02-02
COMPONENT INDEX
REAR SPRING
Disassembly
and
Overhaul
Removal
and
Installation
REAR SUSPENSION
Description
REAR SUSPENSION LOWER
ARM
Removal
and
Installation
REAR SUSPENSION UPPER
ARM
Removal
and
Installation
SPRING LEAVES
AND
TIE-BOLT
Removal
and
Installation
STABILIZER
Removal
and
Installation
TRACK
BAR
Removal
and
Installation
UPPER
ARM
-
REMOVED
Removal
and
Installation
UPPER
ARM
SHAFT AND/OR BUSHING
Removal
and
Installation
UPPER BALL JOINT
Removal
and
Installation
MODEL APPLICATION
All
Models
Ford
N/A
02-23
02-02
02-24
02-25
N/A
02-11
02-25
N/A
N/A
02-08
Mercury
N/A
02-23
02-02
02-24
02-25
N/A
02-11
02-25
N/A
N/A
02-08
Meteor
N/A
02-23
02-02
02-24
02-25
N/A
02-11
02-25
N/A
N/A
02-08
Cougar
N/A
02-25
02-04
N/A
N/A
N/A
02-11
N/A
N/A
02-09
02-08
Fairlane
N/A
02-25
02-04
N/A
N/A
N/A
02-11
N/A
N/A
02-09
02-08
Falcon
N/A
02-25
02-04
N/A
N/A
N/A
02-11
N/A
N/A
02-09
02-08
Montego
N/A
02-25
02-04
N/A
N/A
N/A
02-11
N/A
N/A
02-09
02-08
Mustang
N/A
02-25
02-04
N/A
N/A
N/A
02-11
N/A
N/A
02-09
02-08
Lincoln-
Continental
02-28
02-26
02-04
N/A
N/A
02-29
N/A
N/A
02-27
N/A
02-10
Thunderbird
N/A
02-23
02-02
02-24
02-25
N/A
02-11
02-25
N/A
N/A
02-08
Continental-
Mark III
N/A
02-23
02-02
02-24
02-25
N/A
02-11
02-25
N/A
N/A
02-08
A page number indicates that
the
item
is
for the
vehicle listed
at
the
head
of
the
column.
N/A indicates that
the
item
is
not
applicable
to
the
vehicle listed.
DESCRIPTION
FRONT SUSPENSION
Each front wheel rotates
on a
spindle.
The
upper
and
lower ends
of
the spindle
are
attached
to
upper
and
lower ball joints which
are
mounted
to
an upper
and
lower
arm
respectively.
The upper
arm
pivots
on a
bushing
and shaft assembly which
is
bolted
to
the frame.
The
lower
arm
pivots
on a
bolt
in the
front crossmember (Figs.
1,
2
and 3). A
coil spring seats between
the lower (upper
on
Cougar, Fairlane,
Falcon, Montego
and
Mustang)
arm
and
the top of the
spring housing.
A
double action shock absorber
is
bolted
to
the arm and the top of the
spring
housing.
REAR SUSPENSION
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD
AND
CONTINENTAL MARK
III
Each rear wheel,
hub, and
brake
drum assembly
is
bolted
to the
rear
axle shaft flange.
The
axle shaft
as-
sembly rotates
in the
rear axle hous-
ing.
The rear axle housing
is
suspended
from
the
frame
by a
coil spring
and
shock absorber
at
each side
of the ve-
hicle
and by
three arms
(one
upper
and
two
lower) which pivot
in the
frame members
(Fig.
4).
Each coil spring
is
mounted
be-
tween
a
lower seat, which
is
welded
to
the axle housing,
and an
upper seat
which
is
integral with
the
frame.
The upper
end
of
the
rear shock
ab-
sorber
is
attached
to the
spring upper
seat;
the
lower
end is
bolted
to a
bracket
on the
axle housing.
The upper suspension
arm
attaches
to
the
right side
of the
axle housing
through
an
eccentric pivot bolt
and a
bracket which
is
welded
to the top of
the housing.
The
forward
end of the
arm
is
connected
by a
pivot bolt
to
the frame crossmember.
Each lower suspension
arm
attaches
to
one end of the
axle housing
through
a
pivot bolt
and a
bracket
which
is
welded
to the
underside
of
the housing.
The
forward
end of the
arm
is
connected
by a
pivot bolt
to
the frame side member.
A track
bar is
connected between
the upper
arm
bracket
on the
axle
housing
and a
mounting bracket
on
the left frame side rail.
procarmanuals.com

03-02-10
Suspension
03-02-10
lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring
tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a
jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is
to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the
car, distribute
the
load along
the
bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4
inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-
vent damaging
the
bumper.
2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the
arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-
pletely through each rivet. Then drill
off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot
hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive
out both rivets.
3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand
under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the
vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the
coil spring tension.
4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.
5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,
and position
the
tool.
The
tool should
seat firmly against
the end of
both
studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud
nut.
6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball
joint.
7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and
remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.
Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the
holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint
to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-
taching
nut
finger-tight.
9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower
arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and
nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to
the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.
10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut
to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-
ter
pin.
11.
Remove
the
jack.
12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust
caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever
any part
of the
front suspension
has
been removed
and
installed, front
wheel alignment must
be
checked.
BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the
lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint
is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-
placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts
supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM
UPPER BALL JOINT
LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM
T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A
FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint
Stud
Lower
Arm
1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-
port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the
lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from
the
hub.
3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that
attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-
move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and
wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent
damage
to the
brake hose.
4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and
gasket from
the
spindle.
6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13.
The
tool should seat firmly against
the ends
of
both studs,
and not
against
the
lower stud
nut.
8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring
pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand
under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-
caution.
10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball
joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and
spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball
stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised
position.
11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet
heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-
ing portion
of the
rivets from
the
holes,
and
remove
the
joint.
12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the
nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the
joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-
ified lubricant.
13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while
guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.
Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to
specification. Continue
to
tighten
the
nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-
stall
the
cotter
pin.
14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on
the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching
bolts
to
specifications.
15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the
spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.
16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle
and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to
specifications. Check
for the
correct
flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).
17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-
que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and
lower
the
vehicle.
Upper
Arm
1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end
of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.
Place
a
support stand under
the
side
rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.
3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13).
The
tool should seat firmly
against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and
not against
the
upper stud
nut.
5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the
ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the
upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-
body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake
hose.
7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining
nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.
8. Install
the new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
theprocarmanuals.com

03-02-16
Suspension
03-02-16
2.
Place a jack under the outer end
of the arm.
3.
Tape the upper and lower spring
insulators to the spring.
4.
Compress the coil spring with
Tool 5310-A (Fig. 23) and place the
spring and insulators in position. Be
sure both ends of the spring are prop-
erly seated, and raise the arm. Guide
the spindle boss over the ball joint
stud.
5.
Install the ball joint stud retain-
ing nut and torque it to specification.
Continue tightening the nut to line up
the cotter pin hole. Install a new cot-
ter pin.
6. Connect the stabilizer bar to the
lower arm. Torque the nut to specifi-
cation.
7.
Connect the drag strut to the
lower arm. Torque the nuts to specifi-
cation.
8. Install the shock absorber.
9. Tighten the splash shield attach-
ing bolts to specifications.
10.
Install the hub and rotor on the
spindle and adjust the wheel bearings.
11.
Install the caliper to the spindle
and tighten the attaching bolts to
specifications. Check for the correct
flexible hose routing (Part 2-2).
12.
Install the wheel and tire on the
hub.
Torque the wheel lug nuts to
specifications and remove the support
stands.
13.
With the front end weight of
the car on the wheels, torque the
lower arm-to-crossmember bolt at-
taching nut to specification.
FRONT SUSPENSION
LOWER ARM
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK III
Removal
1.
Raise the front of the vehicle and
position safety stands under both sides
of the frame just back of the lower
arms.
2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel
cover.
3.
If equipped with drum type
brakes—Remove the wheel and tire
and brake drum as an assembly. Re-
move the brake backing plate attach-
ing bolts and remove the backing
plate from the spindle. Wire the back-
ing plate to the underbody to prevent
damage to the brake hose.
4.
If equipped with disc brakes-
—Remove the wheel and tire from the
•Tool—5310-A
F 1491-A
FIG. 23—Coil Spring Compressed
for Installation
F1437-A
FIG. 24—Removing Front Spring
—Lower Arm Replacement
hub.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that
attach the caliper and brake hose to
the spindle. Remove the caliper from
the rotor and wire it to the underbody
to prevent damage to the brake hose.
Then, remove the hub and rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber, and push it up to the
retracted position.
6. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link
from the lower arm.
7.
Remove the cotter pins from the
upper and lower ball joint stud nuts.
8. Remove 2 bolts and nuts attach-
ing the strut to the lower arm.
9. Loosen the lower ball joint stud
nut one or two turns. Do not remove
the nut from the stud at this time.
10.
Install Tool T57P-3OO6-A bet-
ween the upper and lower ball joint
studs (Fig. 7). The tool should be
seated firmly against the ends of both
studs and not against the stud nuts.
11.
With a wrench, turn the adapter
screw until the tool places the stud
under tension. Tap the spindle near
the lower stud with a hammer to loos-
en the stud in the spindle. Do not
loosen the stud from the spindle with
tool pressure only.
12.
Position a floor jack under the
lower arm (Fig. 24) and remove the
lower ball joint stud nut.
13.
Lower the floor jack and re-
move the sprina and insulator (Fie.
25).
14.
Remove one nut and bolt at-
taching the lower control arm to the
No.
2 crossmember and remove the
lower arm (Fig. 24).
Installation
1.
Position the lower arm to the
No.
2 crossmember and loosely install
the attaching bolt and nut (Fig. 1).
2.
Position the spring and insulator
to the upper spring pad and lower
arm. Using a floor jack, compress the
spring and guide the lower ball joint
stud into the spindle hole.
3.
Install the ball joint stud attach-
ing nut and torque to specification.
Continue to tighten the nut until the
cotter pin hole is in line with the nut
slots.
Install a cotter pin in the upper
and lower ball joint studs.
4.
Pull the shock absorber down
and connect it to the lower arm.
5.
Position the strut and bumper to
the lower arm. Install the attaching
bolts and nuts and torque to specifica-
tion.
6. Torque the lower arm to No. 2
crossmember attaching bolt and nut to
specifications.
7.
Position the stabilizer bar link to
the lower arm and install the attach-
ing nuts.
8. If equipped with drum type
brakes—Position the brake backing
plate to the spindle and install the at-
taching bolts. Torque the bolts to spe-
cification. Adjust the brakes as out-
lined in Group 2. Install the wheel,
tire,
and drum to the spindle and ad-
just the wheel bearings as outlined in
Part 3-12.
If equipped with disc brakes-Install
the hub and rotor on the spindle.
Position the caliper over the rotor and
install the attaching bolts. Torque the
bolts to specification. Install the
wheel and tire on the wheel hub and
adjust the wheel bearings as outlined in
Part 3-12.
9. Install the hub cap or wheel
cover.
10.
Remove the safety stands and'
lower the vehicle.
11.
Check the caster, camber, and
toe-in and adjust as required (Section
2,
Part 3-1).procarmanuals.com