
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2 
WHERE TOBEGIN l-2 
AVOIDINGTROUBLE 1-2 
MAINTENANCEORREPAIR? 1-2 
AVOIDINGTHEMOSTCOMMONMISTAKES l-2 
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-2 
SPECIALTOOLS l-4 
YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY 1-4 
DON'TS l-6 
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND 
CONVERSIONS l-6 
BOLTS,NUTSANDOTHERTHREADED 
RETAINERS 1-6 
TORQUE l-7 
TORQUEWRENCHES l-7 
TORQUEANGLEMETERS 1-9 
STANDARDANDMETRIC MEASUREMENTS l-9 
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION l-10 
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER l-10 
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER I-10 
TRANSAXLEIDENTIFICATION I-10 
DRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10 
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10 
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP l-14 
AIRCLEANER(ELEMENT) 1-14 
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-14 
FUELFILTER 1-15 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION l-15 
PCVVALVE l-15 
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-15 
EVAPORATIVECANISTER l-16 
SERVICING 1-16 
BATTERY 1-16 
PRECAUTIONS I-16 
GENERALMAINTENANCE 1-16 
BEL BATTERYFLUID 1-16 
CABLES I-17 
CHARGING I-18 
REPLACEMENT 1-18 
TS 1-18 
INSPECTiON l-18 
ADJUSTMENT 1-18 
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-18 
TIMINGBELTS l-20 
INSPECTION l-20 
HOSES I-20 
INSPECTION l-20 
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 
CV-BOOTS 1-21 
INSPECTION l-21 
SPARKPLUGS l-22 
SPARKPLUGHEATRANGE 
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 
INSPECTION &GAPPING 1. 
SPARKPLUG WIRES 1-24 
TESTING 1-24 
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR 
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 
INSPECTION 1-25 
IGNITIONTIMING 1-25 
. GENERALINFORAMTION l- 
lNSPECTlON&ADJUSTMENl 
VALVE LASH l-27 
ADJUSTMENT l-27 
IDLESPEED 1-28 1-21 
l-22 
l-22 
-23 
1-24 
l-25 
l-25 
.25 
1-26 
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM 1-28 
SYSTEMSERVlCEiiREPAlR l-28 
PREVENTIVEMAINTENANCE 1-28 
SYSTEM INSPECTION l-29 
WINDSHIELD WIPERS l-29 
ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE& 
REPLACEMENT l-29 
TIRESANDWHEELS l-30 
TIRE ROTATION I-30 
TIRE DESIGN 1-31 
TIRESTORAGE l-31 
INFLATION &INSPECTION l-31 
CARE OFSPECIALWHEELS l-32 OPERATION INFOREIGNCOUNTRIES l-33 
ENGINE l-33 
OILLEVELCHECK 1-33 
OIL& FILTER CHANGE l-34 
MANUALTRANSAXLE l-35 
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-35 
LEVELCHECK l-35 
DRAIN&REFILL l-36 
AUTOMATICTRANSAXLE l-36 
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-36 
LEVELCHECK 1-36 
DRAIN&REFILL l-36 
PAN & FILTERSERVICE 1-36 
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGAlANT ONLY) l-38 
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38 
LEVELCHECK l-38 
DRAIN&REFILL l-38 
REARDRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-38 
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38 
LEVELCHECK l-38 
DRAIN&REFILL l-38 
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39 
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39 
iM-41 
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-33 
FLUID DISPOSAL 1-33 
FlJELANDENGlNEOILRECOMMENDATlONS 
ENGINE OIL l-33 
FUEL l-33  

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-3 
3-19mm, as well as a % in. or ~/a in. spark plug careful when using them, as they can change 
socket (depending on plug type). the amount of torque applied to the socket. 
-if possible, buy various length socket drive 
l Jackstands for support. 
extensions. Universal-joint and wobble ex- l Oil filter wrench. 
tensions can be extremely useful, but be l Spout or funnel for pouring fluids. 
l Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unless 
your vehicle is not equipped with any grease fit- 
tings-for details, please refer to information on Flu- 
ids and Lubricants, later in this section). 
l Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless 
equiooed with a sealed, maintenance-free batten/). 
In addition to the above items there are several  O’ A container for draining oil and other fluids. 
l Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess. 
pi 1 others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to 
have around. These include Oil Dry@ (or an equiva- 
lent oil absorbent gravel-such as cat litter) and the 
usual SUDDIV of lubricants. antifreeze and fluids. al- 
though the.& can be purchased as needed. This is a 
basic list for routine maintenance, but only your per- 
sonal needs and desire can accurately determine your 
Fig. 1 Ail but the most basic procedures 
After performing a few projects on the vehicle, 
you’ll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on 
lWSl2U2 Fig, 3 A hydraulic floor jack and a set of 
jackstands are essential for lifting and sup 
porting the vehicle tm1204 Fig. 5 Various drivers, chisels and ptybars 
are great tools to have in your toolbox 
Fig. 7 Although not always necessary, us- 
ing specialized brake tools will save time 
Fig. 11 inductive type timing light   

1-6 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE 
Fig. 16 Screwdrivers should be kept in good 
:ondition to prevent injury or damage which 
:ould result it the blade slips from the screw 
0 
0 
PP tccs1022 Fig. 16 Using the correct size wrench will 
help prevent the possibility of rounding off 
a nut 
7 
lwo.WIRE CouDuClOR TMREE-WIRE CONO”CTOI 
MIRD WIRE GROUNDING GROUNDING TNRU 
THE CASE A CmxlIT 
. 
i$Y$$pQ 
p-+ 
TNHREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR 
ONE WIRE TO 4 GROUND GROUNOlNG TMRU 
AN ADAPTER PLUG 
tccm21 
Fig. 17 Power tools should always be prop- 
erly grounded 
Fig. 19 NEVER work under a vehicle unless it 
is supported using safety stands (jackstands) 
l Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle l Do set the parking brake and block the drive 
rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to pre- 
vent a fall. wheels if the work requires a running engine. 
l Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are 
tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that 
the force is on the side of the fixed jaw. 
l Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glanc- 
ing blows. l Don’t run the engine in a garage or anywhere 
else without proper ventilation-EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave 
the human body and you can build up a deadly sup- 
ply of it in your system by simply breathing in a !ittle 
every day. You may not realize you are slowly poi- 
soning yourself. Always use power vents, windows, 
fans and/or open the garage door. 
l Don’t work around moving parts while wearing 
loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than 
long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene 
soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slip- 
pery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt 
buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not 
safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be 
tied back under a hat or cap. 
l Don’t use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump 
can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a 
rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around 
a spinning shaft or fan. 
l Don’t smoke when working around gasoline, 
cleaning solvent or other flammable material. 
l Don’t smoke when workrng around the battery. 
When the battery is being charged, it gives off explo- 
sive hydrogen gas. 
l Don’t use gasoline to wash your hands; there 
are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dan- 
gerous additives which can enter the body through a 
cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all 
the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands 
will suck up oil and grease. 
l Don’t service the air conditioning system un- 
less you are equipped with the necessary tools and 
trainmg. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant 
is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb 
heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze 
anything it touches. 
l Don’t use screwdrivers for anything other than 
driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool 
can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries. 
At the very least, you’ll ruin a good screwdriver. 
. Don’t use an emergency jack (that little ratchet, 
scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehi- 
cle) for anything other than changing a flat! These 
jacks are only Intended for emergency use out on the 
road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If 
you are serious about mamtaining your vehicle your- 
self, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1% 
ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands. 
sion which can increase the torque necessary to proper installation and safe operation of the vehicle 
achieve the desired clamp load for which that fastener afterwards. 
was originally selected. Additionally, be sure that the Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt 
p See Figures 20, 21, 22, and 23 driver surface of the fastener has not been compro- or stud’s thread. Most automotive and hardware 
mised by rounding or other damage. In some cases a stores keep gauges available to help you select the 
Although there are a great variety of fasteners found driver surface may become only partially rounded, al- proper size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or 
in the modern car or truck, the most commonly used lowing the driver to catch in only one direction. In bolt for a thread gauge. If the bolt you are replacing is 
retainer is the threaded fastener (nuts, bolts, screws, many of these occurrences, a fastener may be in- not too badly damaged, you can select a match by 
studs, etc.). Most threaded retainers may be reused, stalled and tightened, but the driver would not be able finding another bolt which will thread in its place. If 
provided that they are not damaged in use or during to grip and loosen the fastener again. (This could lead you find a nut which threads properly onto the dam- 
the repair. Some retainers (such as stretch bolts or J to frustration down the line should that component aged bolt, then use that nut to help select the replace- 
torque prevailing nuts) are designed to deform when ever need to be disassembled again). ment bolt If however, the bolt you are replacing is so 
tightened or in use and should not be reinstalled. If you must replace a fastener, whether due to de- badly damaged (broken or drilled out) that its threads 
Whenever possible, we will note any special re- sign or damage, you must ALWAYS be sure to use cannot be used as a gauge, you might start by look- 
tainers which should be replaced during a procedure. the proper replacement In all cases, a retainer of the ing for another bolt (from the same assembly or a 
But you should always inspect the condition of a re- same design, material and strength should be used. similar location on your vehicle) which will thread 
tainer when It is removed and replace any that show Markings on the heads of most bolts will help deter- into the damaged bolt’s mounting. If so, the other bolt 
signs of damage. Check all threads for rust or corro- mine the proper strength of the fastener. The same 
can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be used 
material, thread and pitch must be selected to assure 
to select the replacement bolt.  

UNDERHDDD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS-2AL ENGINE 
II 
1. Power steering belt 7. PCV valve 
2. Washer solvent bottle 8. Distributor cap and rotor 
3. Power steering reservoir 9. Fuel filter (under air inlet tube) 
4. Oil fill cap 10. Air filter housing 
5. Brake master cylinder reservoir 11. Engine compartment fuse box 
6. Spark plug and plug wire 12. Battery 13. Automatic transaxle fluid dipstick 
14. Coolant recovery tank 
15. Radiator cap 
16. Engine oil dipstick  

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS-l .8L ENGINE 
1. Coolant recovery tank 
2. Battery 
3. Engine compartment fuse box 
4. Air filter housing 
5. Clutch fluid reservoir 
6. Brake master cylinder reservoir 7. Spark plug and plug wire 
8. PCV valve 
9. Engine oil fill cap 
10. Fuel filter 
11. Engine compartment relay center 
12. Washer solvent bottle 13. Power steering reservoir 
14. Power steering belt 
15. Engine oil dipstick 
16. Radiator cap  

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-13 
Engine GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Fuel Net Net 
Com- 
Oil 
Displacement Engine Engine No. of System Horsepower Torque @ rpm Bore x Stroke pression 
Pressure 
MFI Mult+wt fuel mfectw, 
MFI-T - Multlporl fuel mfectlon-turbocharged 
SOHC - Smgle overhead camshaft 
DOHC - Double OvedEad camshaft  

l 
l-14 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE 
Proper maintenance and tune-up is the key to long 
and trouble-free vehicle life, and the work can yield 
its own rewards. Studies have shown that a properly 
tuned and maintained vehicle can achieve better gas 
mileage than an out-of-tune vehicle. As a conscien- 
tious owner and driver, set aside a Saturday morning, 
say once a month, to check or replace items which 
could cause major problems later. Keep your own 
personal log to jot down which services you per- 
formed, how much the parts cost you, the date, and 
the exact odometer reading at the time. Keep all re- 
selfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that  ceipts for such items as engine oil and filters, so that 
they may be referred tp in case of related problems or 
to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-your- the required maintenance was performed. In the event 
of a warranty problem, these receipts will be invalu- 
able. 
The literature provided with your vehicle when it 
was originally delivered includes the factory recom- 
mended maintenance schedule. If you no longer have 
this literature, replacement copies are usually avail- 
able from the dealer. A maintenance schedule is pro- 
vided later in this section, in case you do not have 
the factory literature. * 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 
Except 2.gL Turbocharged Engine 
b See Figures 36 thru 41 9. Place a new air cleaner element inside the 
lower housing. Make sure the seal on the element is 
fully seated in the groove. 
10. Install the upper air cleaner housing and inlet 
tube onto the lower housing. 
11. Tighten the clamp on the inlet tube at the 
throttle body. 
12. Attach the breather hose onto the air inlet tube. 
13. Plug the connector into the MAF sensor. 
14. Attach the air cleaner housing retaining clips. 
15. Connect the negative battery cable. 
2.DL Turbocharged Engine 
b See Figure 42 
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 
2. Detach the air flow sensor connector. 
3. Unfasten the boost hose. 
4. Disconnect the solenoid valve with hoses. 
93151p50 Fig. 36 Release the retaining clips from the 
air cleaner housing 
r3151p47 Fig. 37 Unplug the MAF sensor connector 
Fig. 49 
. . . then remove the air outlet tube 
and upper housing from the lower housing 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 5. Disconnect the air intake hose. 
2. Release the retaining clips from the air 6. Unfasten tie air cleaner retainer bolts and the 
cleaner housing. air cleaner assembly. 
3. Loosen the clamp on the air outlet tube at the 7. Unclamp the cover and remove from the hous- 
throttle body. ing. 
4. Detach the breather hose from the air inlet 
tube. *Care must be taken when removing the air 
cleaner cover. The air flow sensor is at- 
5. Unplug the MAF sensor connector. 
6. Separate the upper and lower air cleaner tached and could be damaged during cover 
removal. 
housings and remove the air outlet tube and upper 
housing from the lower housing. 
7. Remove the air cleaner element from the 
housing. 
To install: 
8. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing of 
any dirt and debris that has collected inside. 8. Remove the air cleaner element. Thoroughly 
clean the air cleaner housing prior to replacing the air 
filter. 
To install: 
9. Install the new air cleaner element into the 
housing. Install and secure the cover in place. 
Fig. 38 Detach the breather hose from the 
air tniet tube 
Fig. 41 Remove the air cleaner element 
from the housing Fig. 39 Loosen the clamp on the air outlet 
tube at the throttle body . . . 
Fig. 42 Detach the air flow sensor connec- 
tor, the boost hose and the solenoid valve 
connector  

* 
l-16 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE 
Fig. 49 Grasp the valve and gently remove 
Fig. 50 Twist and pull on the valve to re- 
it from the valve cover 
move it from the hose Fig. 51 Inspect the grommet and replace if 
cracked or leaking oil 
SERVICING 
corrosive acid can also eat away at components un- 
der the hood. 
Always visually inspect the battery case for cracks, 
leakage and corrosion. A white corrosive substance 
u See Figure 52 
The evaporative canister requires no periodic ser- 
vicing. However, a careful inspection of the canister 
and hoses should be made frequently, Replace dam- on the battery case or on nearby components would 
indicate a leaking or cracked battery. If the battery is 
cracked, it should be replaced immediately. GENERALMAINTENANCE '_ 
devices that increase parasitic load may discharge a 
battery sooner. If the vehicle is to be stored for 6-B 
weeks in a secure area and the alarm system, if pre- 
sent, is not necessary, the negative battery cable 
should be disconnected at the onset of storage to 
protect the battery charge. 
Remember that constantly discharging and 
recharging will shorten battery life. Take rare not to 
allow a battery to be needlessly discharged. 
aged components as required. 
The canister is typically located under one of the 
front fenders, however on some later models it may 
be under the rear of the vehicle, near the gas tank, 
r on most models # See Figure 53 
A battery that is not sealed must be checked peri- 
odically for electrolyte level. You cannot add water to 
a sealed maintenance-free battery (though not all 
maintenance-free batteries are sealed); however, a 
sealed battery must also be checked for proper elec- 
trolyte level, as indicated by the color of the built-in 
hydrometer “eye.” 
Always keep the battery cables and terminals free 
of corrosion. Check these components about once a 
year. Refer to the removal, installation and cleaning 
procedures outlined in this section, 
Keep the top of the battery clean, as a film of dirt 
can help completely discharge a battery that is not 
used for long periods. A solution of baking soda and 
water may be used for cleaning, but be careful to 
flush this off with clear water. DO NOT let any of the 
solution into the filler holes. Baking soda neutralizes 
battery acid and will de-activate a battery cell. 
Batteries in vehicles which are not operated on a 
regular basis can fall victim to parasitic loads (small 
BA-ITERY FLUID 
Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a 
month. or more often in hot weather or during peri- 
ods of extended vehicle operation. On non-sealed 
batteries, the level can be checked either through the 
case on translucent batteries or by removing the cell 
caps on opaque-cased types. The electrolyte level in 
each cell should be kept filled to the split ring inside 
each ceil, or the line marked on the outside of the 
case. 
If the level is low, add only distilled water through 
the opening until the level is correct. Each cell is sep- 
arate from the others, so each must be checked and 
filled individuallv. Distilled water should be used, be- 
cause the chemicals and minerals found in most 
drinking water are harmful to the battery and could 
significantly shorten its life. 
If water is added in freezing weather, the vehicle 
should be driven several miles to allow the water to 
mix with the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could 
freeze. 
current drains which are constantly drawing current 
from the battery). Normal parasitic loads may drain a Although some maintenance-free batteries have 
removable cell caos for access to the electrolyte, the 
cause a short circuit, leading to sparks and possible 
personal injury. 
Do not smoke, have an open flame or create 
sparks near a battery; the gases contained in the bat- 
tery are very explosive and, if ignited, could cause se- 
vere injury or death. 
All batteries, regardless of type, should be care- 
fully secured by a battery hold-down device. If this is 
not done, the battery terminals or casing may crack 
from stress applied to the battery during vehicle oper- 
ation. A battery which is not secured may allow acid 
to leak out, making it discharge faster; such leaking m / built-in hydrometer. . 
 
*Although the readings from built-in hy- 
drometers found in sealed batteries may 
vary, a green eye usually indicates a prop 
erly charged battery with sufficient fluid 
level. A dark eye is normally an indicator of a 
battery wlth sufficient fluid, but one which 
may be low in charge. And a light or yellow 
eye is usually an indication that electrolyte 
supply has dropped below the necessary 
tcu1@32 Fig. 53 A typical location for the built-in hv- level for battery (and hydrometer) operation. 
drometer on maintenan 
ce-free batteries ’ I In this last case. sealed batteries with an in- 
sufficient electrolyte level must usually be 
’ discarded.