2010 CHEVROLET EXPRESS Owner's Manual

Front PositionFront Position
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4. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown.
The front position jacking point is on the frame.
The rear position jacking point is on the rear axle.
If the exhaust system interferes in the jack location
in the rear axle, such as in Diesel vehicles, place
the jack (A) on the rear axle between the axle
housing and the shock absorber bracket in order to
avoid any interference with the exhaust pipe (B). Rear Position
Rear Alternative Position (Diesel Vehicles)
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{WARNING:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is
dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you
could be badly injured or killed. Never get under
a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{WARNING:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly
positioned can damage the vehicle and even make
the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and
vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into
the proper location before raising the vehicle.5. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the
ground so there is enough room for the spare
tire to fit.
6. Remove all the
wheel nuts.
7. Take flat tire off of the mounting surface.
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{WARNING:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is
fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after
time. The wheel could come off and cause an
accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust
or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper
towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 6-86.8. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{WARNING:
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because
the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel
could fall off, causing a crash.
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9. Put the wheel nuts
back on with the
rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until
the wheel is held
against the hub.
10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
{WARNING:
Wheel nuts that are not tight can work loose. If all
the nuts on a wheel come off, the wheel can come
off the vehicle, causing a crash. All wheel nuts
must be properly tightened. Follow the rules in this
section to be sure they are.
{WARNING:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If all
the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could come
off and cause a crash. If any stud is damaged
because of a loose-running wheel, it could be that
all of the studs are damaged. To be sure, replace
all studs on the wheel. If the stud holes in a wheel
have become larger, the wheel could collapse in
operation. Replace any wheel if its stud holes have
become larger or distorted in any way. Inspect hubs
and hub-piloted wheels for damage. Because of
loose running wheels, piloting pad damage may
occur and require replacement of the entire hub, for
proper centering of the wheels. When replacing
studs, hubs, wheel nuts or wheels, be sure to use
GM original equipment parts.
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{WARNING:
Wheel nuts that are improperly or incorrectly
tightened can cause the wheels to become loose or
come off. The wheel nuts should be tightened with
a torque wrench to the proper torque specification
after replacing. Follow the torque specification
supplied by the aftermarket manufacturer when
using accessory locking wheel nuts. SeeCapacities
and Specications on page 6-116for original
equipment wheel nut torque specifications.
Notice:Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specication. SeeCapacities and
Specifications on page 6-116for the wheel nut
torque specication.11. Use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts firmly.
Turn the wheel wrench clockwise and in a
crisscross sequence as shown.
12. Put the wheel cover or the center cap and plastic
wheel nut caps back on. Remove any wheel blocks.
Have a technician check the wheel nut tightness
of all wheels with a torque wrench after the first
100 miles (160 km) and then 1,000 miles (1600 km)
after that. Repeat this service whenever you have
a tire removed or serviced. SeeCapacities and
Specications on page 6-116for more information.
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Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system.
It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling
off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is
damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire
must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down.
SeeStoring a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on
page 6-100for instructions on storing the spare tire
correctly.
{WARNING:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly
and you and others could get hurt. Read and
follow the instructions listed next.To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:
{WARNING:
Someone standing too close during the procedure
could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does
not slide off the jack completely, make sure no
one is behind you or on either side of you as you
pull the jack out from under the spare.
1. Check under the
vehicle to see if the
cable end is visible.
If the cable is not
visible, start this
procedure at Step 6.
2. Turn the hoist extension counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
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3. Attach the jack handle/jack handle extension and
wheel wrench to the jack.4. Place the jack under the vehicle, ahead of the rear
bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack
under the center of the spare tire and turn the
handle clockwise to raise the jack until it lifts the
secondary latch spring.
5. Keep raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held firmly in place.
This lets you know that the secondary latch
has released. The spare tire is now balancing
on the jack.
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