2009 CHEVROLET TRAIL BLAZER Owners Manual

Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because
some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or
drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because headlamps can only light up
so much road ahead.
Watch for animals.
When tired, pull off the road.
Do not wear sunglasses.
Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime.
But, as we get older, these differences increase.
A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction
and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always
drive slower in these types of driving conditions
and avoid driving through large puddles and
deep-standing or owing water.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling
to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or a
car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until
the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
Driving through owing water could cause your
vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and
other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore
police warnings and be very cautious about trying to
drive through owing water.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under
your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This
can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going
fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has
little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips
include:
Allow extra following distance.
Pass with caution.
Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
Keep the windshield washer uid reservoir lled.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-58.
Turn off cruise control.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having
it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing.
Things to check on your own include:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Reservoir full? Windows
clean — inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:All levels checked?
Lamps:Do they all work and are lenses clean?
Tires:Are treads good? Are tires inated to
recommended pressure?
Weather and Maps:Safe to travel? Have
up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings
while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, nd a safe
place to park your vehicle and rest.
Other driving tips include:
Keep the vehicle well ventilated.
Keep interior temperature cool.
Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead
and to the sides.
Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments
often.
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Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on at or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape.
Check all uid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so
hot that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let the engine
assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition
off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they could get so hot that
they would not work well. You would then have poor
braking or even none going down a hill. You could
crash. Always have the engine running and the
vehicle in gear when going downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that
let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in
your lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
SeeOff-Road Driving on page 4-14for information
about driving off-road.
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Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins
to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet
ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt
or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
TheAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5improves
vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but
apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use theRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
Turn on theHazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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CAUTION: (Continued)

Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on
the side of the vehicle that is away from the
wind to bring in fresh air.
Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that circulates the air inside the vehicle and
set the fan speed to the highest setting.
See Climate Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 2-38.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking the exhaust.Run the engine for short periods only as needed to
keep warm, but be careful.
To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine
off and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about
to keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal
slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed.
This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and
to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as
possible to save fuel.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-32.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system
in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system
to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use
the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-81.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles,
shift into Four-Wheel High. For vehicles with StabiliTrak
®,
turn the traction control part of the system off. Shift back
and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent
transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning
before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while
shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when
the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in
the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking
motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the
vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out.
Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle has them.
If the vehicle does need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-40.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on
the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could
break off and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
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Notice:Never use recovery hooks to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would
not be covered by warranty.
For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the
vehicle, you can use them if you’re stuck off-road and
need to be pulled to some place where you can continue
driving.
Loading the Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all
occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and
Loading Information label and the Certication/Tire
label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or
either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of the vehicle.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar).
With the driver’s door open, you will nd the
label attached below the door lock post (striker).The Tire and Loading Information label shows the
number of occupant seating positions (A), and the
maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms
and pounds.
The Tire and Loading Information label also shows
the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the
recommended cold tire ination pressures (D). For
more information on tires and ination seeTires on
page 5-58andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-65.
There is also important loading information on the
vehicle Certication/Tire label. It tells you the Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle.
See “Certication/Tire Label” later in this section.
Label Example
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